Author Topic: Rapid Fire Method (No Chip) (Read 380417 times)

Modded Matt · « **Reply #540 on:** May 18, 2009, 08:58:02 AM »

no problem ben, I seem to have missed where you asked this a few posts back, sorry. feel free to pm me or you can reach me at the chat room from 12:00pm to 1:00pm EST if you need a quick responce next time I over look your post.

Ben. · « **Reply #541 on:** May 18, 2009, 09:00:56 AM »

Haha.. Don't worry about it, Is There any other types of switches, cheaper, smaller maybe..?

Thanks..

wilson08 · « **Reply #542 on:** May 18, 2009, 02:52:17 PM »

Quote from: Ben. on May 18, 2009, 09:00:56 AM

Haha.. Don't worry about it, Is There any other types of switches, cheaper, smaller maybe..?

Thanks..

any "push to make" / "non-locking switch" will work

GISJason · « **Reply #543 on:** May 20, 2009, 07:31:42 PM »

Wow this is a huge ass thread....
Ya'll rock for makin this tut!

I just finally got my matrix wireless controller done... Now I wanna test... But It doesn't seem like Halo 3 does anything but the switch acts like a 2nd button as long as I hold it down?? Rapid fire just like the norm other shootin button in H3

Also it fires just a shot when I hit the switch just once... Is this normal behavior? Or Is it actually already patched not to work on H3? If so then what other games can I test it out on and see if there's any difference....

Thanks!!!

Jumbo · « **Reply #544 on:** May 20, 2009, 07:55:46 PM »

I think mike said you need to use Fresh batteries, not play and charge ones so make sure ur doing that. It might be the solder joint too.

And Matt, isnt that wat evil controllers does? lol

GISJason · « **Reply #545 on:** May 20, 2009, 11:30:23 PM »

uh is that a reply to my post?

Modded Matt · « **Reply #546 on:** May 21, 2009, 12:44:24 PM »

Jason, this mod works only when certin criteria are met, your batteries CAN NOT be fresh. they must be slightly depleted. if they are fresh, you get one shot. if you pull up your menu it shows battery charge, you must be missing atleast one bar of battery life for this to work. this is becouse when the batteries are full, the pwm is so fast the controller reads it as a trigger hold.
and I have not tested, but I believe if you look back through the thread, play and charge dont work when it is charging. or fully charged. play and charge pack should work, but only after the first bar is gone..

hope that helps.

yes jumbo, but nobody ever talks about it. I posted it in a thread a few months ago.

Kirby · « **Reply #547 on:** May 23, 2009, 03:39:51 PM »

I am a noob but I am okay with doing this.
Ive got everything ready to do this but JUST in case, I thought I would get some genuine advice, ignorantly I got out both my rumble packs, not knowing I may of needed them, I still have the little white bit but binned the actual pack and their white bit.

Am I screwed now or could I still use the white part on the motherboard if needs be?

If all else fails I think I am good to go!

PspKicks316 · « **Reply #548 on:** May 23, 2009, 03:44:54 PM »

You don't need the rumble... That's really common sense.

Also, this mod sucks. It's pointless. If you're a noob, I'm guessing you didn't even bother checking that you had the correct controller model? Or even read through the whole topic to realize this mod rarely even works properly?

Kirby · « **Reply #549 on:** May 23, 2009, 04:18:18 PM »

I am a noob in the sense of using this site and looking through this entire topic, sorry.
I will be doing the mod on Thursday and if anything it will be fun to do!

So all I would need anyway would be the white thing on the motherboard?
But I think my controller is okay and is the right one.

Kirby · « **Reply #550 on:** May 23, 2009, 04:25:30 PM »

Quote from: SplitboXer on September 16, 2008, 01:22:57 PM

Where the number 1 is, is that where I should solder? Or actually on the other end of the black line? I dont understand this images meaning that well, thanks!

Modded Matt · « **Reply #551 on:** May 24, 2009, 03:05:41 PM »

kirby, you can use either point, the one at the #1 or at the other end of the black line, you pick.

tip:
at the other end of the line, (at the LED) is easier, but the spot at the #1 is safer.

at the end of the line,(LED) put the solder on the wire and touch the iron two it.
where the #1 is you must use the end of a knife to scrape away some of the green around the hole so the solder will stick.

good luck, if your controller has that big silver thing in the center as shown in your pic, you have the correct controller.

Kirby · « **Reply #552 on:** May 25, 2009, 11:50:06 AM »

Hey thanks Matt, I know you're a mod and everything but thanks for some great help!

I look forward to Thursday, I am really considering other mods on the controller too now.

ONE MORE THING:
Is this the correct wire, I think it is but hey, better to be safe then sorry. And as most of you here are American I assume you would know better then a a Brit who doesnt get these things...

http://tinyurl.com/wireIneed

please dont doubl;e post use this to edit your last post please--------------->

Modded Matt · « **Reply #553 on:** May 26, 2009, 04:23:29 AM »

that wire is fine.

Kirby · « **Reply #554 on:** May 27, 2009, 10:12:14 AM »

Hey, financial reasons have made it impossible for me to buy the wire I so despetately need, however I have found my old PS2 controller, would the wires found in that be any good?

Modded Matt · « **Reply #555 on:** May 27, 2009, 12:26:06 PM »

I am not sure of what wire is in a ps2 controller, I thought they only use ribbon cable???

any wire will do as long as it is small enough and has a good coating. try a usb cable.

SafeBendyStraw · « **Reply #556 on:** June 05, 2009, 09:10:28 PM »

Ok, Bendy just got a fantastic IDEA for users with newer controllers. Hold on to your hats because the genius of this might make your brain fly from your cranium.

This will get a little ugly ascetically and will drain the whole clip

You get a red button momentary switch, and wire it up as you would on one of the older controllers, except instead of an led ground, hook it up to a common ground. From what I know about electronics (nil) and what I've read on this thread, it should only fire one time if pressed. The solution? press it over and over. How would you do that? Instead of pointing the switch toward the outside, why not point it towards the rumble motor? Push the trigger once, rumble engages and presses the switch until it runs out of ammo. Would this work, or not?

EDIT: you could add another switch and connect the motor to it so instead of draining the whole clip, you tap the control for the rumble motor, which acts as I said before.

Modded Matt · « **Reply #557 on:** June 06, 2009, 05:42:36 AM »

lol.. welcome to acidmods bendy..I am not sure about how you describe what you want but this is the place to dream it up, lets see a working prototype.

SafeBendyStraw · « **Reply #558 on:** June 06, 2009, 12:56:27 PM »

There are a few things that I need to clarify before I attempt this.

Is the right trigger a negative edge trigger or a positive edge trigger, and do I need a resistor for this?. ~so I connect it correctly to either ground or hot * I noticed that the right trigger ingeniously turns a potentiometer in order to achieve pressure sensitive play, so this question may be less valid
Do the rumble motors take full voltage from the controller or do I need to run a resistor though them, and if so can anyone give me an ohm reading. ~I obviously don't want to destroy my motors

EDIT a little higher up the page, someone calls this mod "useless" but I believe I can use the concept even on newer controllers (by the way I checked my controller model, and I'm what YOU would call a noob) to achieve an undetectable mod. Its even better than electrical means as the motor would not achieve a uniform firing speed and therefore would most likely not be reported as easily

Ghost In Black · « **Reply #559 on:** June 07, 2009, 10:55:38 PM »

That does sound like an interesting idea. Too bad I've never gotten used to the feel of extra buttons

Hazer · « **Reply #560 on:** June 08, 2009, 07:58:22 AM »

Actually, this has been done before. You hotglue the tactile inside the controller at just the right height for the rumble to hit it. I have seen pictures somewhere of this being done.

But guess what. How many times can that metal wieght hit the top of a tactile switch before it wears the plastic down to the point it no longer presses down anymore? Not very many.

Also, what speed does this work at? Not anything consistant. So what games would it work on? COD 4 only.

Ghost In Black · « **Reply #561 on:** June 08, 2009, 09:37:46 AM »

Lol yeah I think I made 2 cotnrollers using the no chip method, found out it wasn't worth it, and from then on used a pic chip.

tefftb · « **Reply #562 on:** June 12, 2009, 09:54:17 AM »

does anyone know the value of the r21 resistor? my son tried to solder to the actual r21 resistor. now there is nothing there. when we insert the battery pack, the controller won't turn on. no lights. nothing. i am hopeful that if we replace the r21, we can salvage the controller.
thanx.

Post Merge: June 12, 2009, 10:19:28 AM

on a separate controller from my post above, we were successfully able to mod for rapidfire. it works great for COD4 if not on live. it is single fire on live. thoughts as to why?

Modded Matt · « **Reply #563 on:** June 12, 2009, 02:43:39 PM »

it doesnt make since for it to work not on live and work of line..99% of the time when people get this result, they have tried to mod a CG controller. or they have full batteries.

as for the question of the r21 resistor...I think you may be confused..please post a pic of your controller. I am looking at the matrix, and what I see is D21..but this is not a resistor it is the #1 LED. are the solder pads still there? the controller should function without it, you just wont know it is on..to replace it you must oreder it online, you need a 0603 smd led might as well change them all to a color you like. if your controller wont work at all, make sure itis not shorted out at this led..

like I said take pictures so I can help further.

yosaji · « **Reply #564 on:** June 14, 2009, 03:13:31 PM »

This looks amazing, so in turn I had to try it out. I have never soldered before so I just taught myself yesterday over the course of 8 hours, Made a few wires that worked well for the audio on my computer and figured it was time to try this. I have soldered on the ground for the LED and the middle pin trigger, hooked both up to a 3A 125 toggle, started it up and tried it with a random game. No Luck. I have re soldered both connections several dozen times thinking I have not made a full circuit, Still nothing. Controller still works perfect, and yes its the same as what is necessary (verified by looking at the serial to the right of the right analog on your video and mine, both match up)

I have also tried the other Ground in the middle of the diagram, No Luck. What could I be missing?

Thank you for any and all help, Much Appreciated.

F4thAcE · « **Reply #565 on:** June 15, 2009, 06:34:03 PM »

is the large silver thinge on the front or the back of the controller?

KRAY0N · « **Reply #566 on:** June 16, 2009, 02:20:50 PM »

I actually saw this tutroial today early this a.m. while at work> I was so anxious to get home,I suddenly came down with diarhea(sp). Went home pulled out my old soldering parts tool box. And went to work on mine..... MAN YOU ARE EFFF'NG BAD ASS. It friggin worked like a charm. I did place my button under the right trigger so its easier to access. MAN THANKS A LOT and keep hacking away brothers. ACID MODS KICK ARSE MAN!!!!!!

Post Merge: June 16, 2009, 02:25:54 PM

Quote from: F4thAcE on June 15, 2009, 06:34:03 PM

is the large silver thinge on the front or the back of the controller?

The large silver thing in on the TOP portion of the controller. Its closer to the RIGHT THUMB STICK( to the left and up)

Post Merge: June 16, 2009, 02:27:35 PM

Quote from: yosaji on June 14, 2009, 03:13:31 PM

This looks amazing, so in turn I had to try it out. I have never soldered before so I just taught myself yesterday over the course of 8 hours, Made a few wires that worked well for the audio on my computer and figured it was time to try this. I have soldered on the ground for the LED and the middle pin trigger, hooked both up to a 3A 125 toggle, started it up and tried it with a random game. No Luck. I have re soldered both connections several dozen times thinking I have not made a full circuit, Still nothing. Controller still works perfect, and yes its the same as what is necessary (verified by looking at the serial to the right of the right analog on your video and mine, both match up)

I have also tried the other Ground in the middle of the diagram, No Luck. What could I be missing?

Thank you for any and all help, Much Appreciated.

Are you sure u have the correct version of the controller CG & CL will not work with this mod.

yosaji · « **Reply #567 on:** June 16, 2009, 08:06:10 PM »

I understand that but as I said I verified by looking at the video and my motherboard matches the numbers that they have

KRAY0N · « **Reply #568 on:** June 16, 2009, 09:23:40 PM »

Quote from: yosaji on June 16, 2009, 08:06:10 PM

I understand that but as I said I verified by looking at the video and my motherboard matches the numbers that they have

Well then I guess your stuck like chuck. My controller works PERFECT!!

Modded Matt · « **Reply #569 on:** June 17, 2009, 04:56:25 AM »

yosaji, post a picture of the front and the back of your mother board please

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Author Topic: Rapid Fire Method (No Chip) (Read 380417 times)