Analog nub wiring help

[DrgnSlyr]

OK, Im working on a mod and need to wire the analog nub, soldering is not my issue, i successfully wired the 4 wires, but now i don't know how do they function.



this is a picture from Blizzard's mod, so u see there is 4 wires, and the question is this:

- Which connection between which wires gives which direction?
  and i want to note that when im not connecting any wires, it doesn't give neutral position
  but rather it keeps registering -Y axe (Analog nub down), is that normal or did i mess something up?
i've searched for answer for hours, PMed ppl, sadly no answer.

[PspKicks316]

That's normal for it to go down. It's not a specific direction for each one. I know 1 is gnd, I THINK one is Y and one is X but I don't know the last. What are you trying to wire this for?

[DrgnSlyr]

That's normal for it to go down. It's not a specific direction for each one. I know 1 is gnd, I THINK one is Y and one is X but I don't know the last. What are you trying to wire this for?

well, the top one (in the pic) is GND, the 2nd from top is A1 (X axis), the 3rd is A2 (dunno what for),
the 4th is A3 (Y axis), (Not sure if didn't i swap the X and Y).

but knowing those didn't help me anything, the question remains as it is.


I'm trying to connect them to custom external controller.
my project topic
https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=21342.0

[Blizzrad]

Hi DrgnSlyr,
I saw your PM last night, sorry for not replying sooner, I was busy with a few other things. The analog stick uses two potentiometers (for x and y axis) which allow the position of the stick to be determined by how much resistance is being placed on the current traveling through them. Because the stick always returns to the center, there is a default resistance applied just by it being connected, this means that joystick movements will drift to the corner when there isn't a proper connection, or when no joystick is connected at all.

Based on what I have seen elsewhere, and what seemed to make sense from testing it with a mulitimeter, I think that (going from the top down in the photo above) the contacts are GND, X axis, +, and Y axis. Current flows from the third contact to the X and Y contacts, and the potentiometers control how much passes thorough by changing the resistance between the X/Y axis contacts, and the third and first contacts. A lowered resistance to the GND contact will cause the voltage to drop, while a lowered resistance to the third contact will cause the voltage to rise. Electro has a good diagram of this in his L2/R2 mod tutorial. Connecting these contacts directly will result in sharp movements, but tends to throw off the calibration of the analog to digital converter (at least when I tried it). I am not certain that this is how it all works, but it seemed to make the most sense from what I remember.   

[DrgnSlyr]

Hi DrgnSlyr,
I saw your PM last night, sorry for not replying sooner, I was busy with a few other things. The analog stick uses two potentiometers (for x and y axis) which allow the position of the stick to be determined by how much resistance is being placed on the current traveling through them. Because the stick always returns to the center, there is a default resistance applied just by it being connected, this means that joystick movements will drift to the corner when there isn't a proper connection, or when no joystick is connected at all.

Going from the top down in the photo you posted above, the contacts are GND, X axis, +, and Y axis. Current flows from the third contact to the X and Y contacts, and the potentiometers control how much passes thorough by changing the resistance between the X/Y axis contacts, and the third and first contacts. A lowered resistance to the GND contact will cause the voltage to drop, while a lowered resistance to the third contact will cause the voltage to rise. Electro has a good diagram of this in his L2/R2 mod tutorial. Connecting these contacts directly will result in sharp movements, but tends to throw off the calibration of the analog to digital converter (at least when I tried it).   

Thanks Blizzard u r the man, I totally understood how it functions now.

but well .. I'm a type who has a chain of question so stick with me a little longer plz :P

so u advice to apply a resistor there between contacts eh, I can do that, but isn't there
anyway to calibrate the analog again? like calibration wizard or something .. somebody's
got to program one of these if possible, it'll be easier to calibrate once every week than
testing to find the right resistor and connect 2 or 4 of them to each contact ..

btw my analog is still going -Y after i closed the face cover -__-, when i rechecked inside
i found that my rubber conductor there is cut apart and the GND part is damaged (not sure if it's conducts or not)
because the GND pin below the analog nub is also was removed due to over heating when i tried to desolder
a wire i connected previously there -__-, i super glued the pin back but not sure if it's functions

is there any solution? or i have to but new parts (analog nub)?

[PspKicks316]

i super glued the pin back but not sure if it's functions

Ok uhm. Where to start? You can't superglue something and expect it to work like that. Just solder a wire from where the gold tab was on the mobo and solder the other end onto the tab on the analog.

[Blizzrad]

As I remember, the A/D converter will recalibrate itself whenever the PSP is restarted. When it would get out of calibration, it would be impossible to reach the full range of sensitivity, even when pushing the stick as far as it would go. After a quick restart, everything would be back to normal. There is also a CFW plugin that you might find useful called JoySens, I haven't personally used it before, but it is supposed to allow you to configure the sensitivity levels of the analog nub. If you have taken the ground contact completely off the analog nub then I am not sure how to fix this. You could try what PsPKicks316 suggested if you can find a GND trace to solder to on the analog nub PCB.