Author Topic: Why yes, I am ambitious, and now I need some help.  (Read 2504 times)

Offline alentris

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Why yes, I am ambitious, and now I need some help.
« on: October 29, 2008, 05:03:57 PM »
Ok, so I'm starting on a new psp mod, but I'm kinda new. I've done 2 full case mods and that's it. So currently, i have a custom painted white backplate on my psp, and I'm awaiting the arrival of a new brilliant white Asterix faceplate. I have red buttons, but what I was looking into doing in the time being was a umd door ring of light mod (4 leds)and direct contact trigger sound reactive leds (2 leds). On a scale of 1-10 I would give myself a 5 for soldering, but I'm practicing :victory:.So, I have a couple of questions to ask.

1. When I solder the triggers and the und door leds, should I do half on each speaker, all on one, or triggers on one and umd doors on another?

2. Is there a limit to the number of leds that can be soldered to each speaker? (if you can, I'd like to know a number)

3. What thickness of plexiglass will I need to make my own door jewel? (yes, I have the tools to cut plexiglass)

4. Where would the negative solder points go to if i wanted the lights to go on when the wi-fi is off?

5. How hard might it be to change the charging/playing leds? (If it's easy I might attempt it)

6. A 15 watt soldering iron should be sufficient, right?

Thanks in advance for any help!  :hifive:

Thanks to HiddenVenom for the sig!

Offline ApheX

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Re: Why yes, I am ambitious, and now I need some help.
« Reply #1 on: October 29, 2008, 05:23:24 PM »
Ok, so I'm starting on a new psp mod, but I'm kinda new. I've done 2 full case mods and that's it. So currently, i have a custom painted white backplate on my psp, and I'm awaiting the arrival of a new brilliant white Asterix faceplate. I have red buttons, but what I was looking into doing in the time being was a umd door ring of light mod (4 leds)and direct contact trigger sound reactive leds (2 leds). On a scale of 1-10 I would give myself a 5 for soldering, but I'm practicing :victory:.So, I have a couple of questions to ask.

1. When I solder the triggers and the und door leds, should I do half on each speaker, all on one, or triggers on one and umd doors on another?

2. Is there a limit to the number of leds that can be soldered to each speaker? (if you can, I'd like to know a number)

3. What thickness of plexiglass will I need to make my own door jewel? (yes, I have the tools to cut plexiglass)

4. Where would the negative solder points go to if i wanted the lights to go on when the wi-fi is off?

5. How hard might it be to change the charging/playing leds? (If it's easy I might attempt it)

6. A 15 watt soldering iron should be sufficient, right?

Thanks in advance for any help!  :hifive:

Dude, try using the search button. other people have asked similer questions that might answer yours. anyway,

1. try having the trigger leds on the left speaker and the umd leds on the right. it would be easier.

2. i've only used 4 on each speaker, but other modders here have said that 8 on each speaker is the max before the sound is affected.

3. The thickness of a cd case door is exactly the same as the psp 1000 umd door. i use them for ROLs and the fit very well.

4. You solder on one of the pins on the wifi swich, this diagram should help.


5. It's not too hard really, there was a tutorial that shows you how to do it. if your not up for trying it you could ask if someone else here will make it for you on the auction section.

6. 15 watts is fine. :)

« Last Edit: October 29, 2008, 05:25:07 PM by Aphex »

Offline alentris

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Re: Why yes, I am ambitious, and now I need some help.
« Reply #2 on: October 29, 2008, 05:35:11 PM »
Oooooh... that  diagram really helped, I thought i'd have to set up all 2 or 3 of the wires up on the speaker, but really I just have to put it through a 10 Ohm Resistor, solder a wire to that one, and the rest can branch from that wire... gotcha  :cool: And just one quick thing, I think that the wifi switch has something like 4 pins on it, but which one or ones should I solder to if I want the leds on while the wifi is off?

Thanks to HiddenVenom for the sig!

Offline ApheX

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Re: Why yes, I am ambitious, and now I need some help.
« Reply #3 on: October 29, 2008, 06:22:34 PM »
Oooooh... that  diagram really helped, I thought i'd have to set up all 2 or 3 of the wires up on the speaker, but really I just have to put it through a 10 Ohm Resistor, solder a wire to that one, and the rest can branch from that wire... gotcha  :cool: And just one quick thing, I think that the wifi switch has something like 4 pins on it, but which one or ones should I solder to if I want the leds on while the wifi is off?

sorry, that diagram was just to show you where to solder a - wire on the wifi swich. with a sound mod you don't need the 10 ohm resistor. use this tutorial as a guide. it's for the slim but tells you how to make the sound chip. just solder the + wire on the mobo as this picture shows.


Solder the - wire as shown on the picture i posted before, oh, and the wifi swich only has 3 pins. :)

Offline alentris

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Re: Why yes, I am ambitious, and now I need some help.
« Reply #4 on: October 29, 2008, 06:45:09 PM »
I see now, I just didn't know if the wifi switch in the diagram was showing just a wiring layout or actually where to solder :tup:... And also, on the phat (, can't you solder directly to the speaker, as seen in this tut: https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=22685.0

Because I know the contact points to solder to directly on the speaker are a heck of a lot bigger, and probably easier to solder to. And thanks for answering my questions so far  :#1:

Thanks to HiddenVenom for the sig!

Offline rceckspurt13

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Re: Why yes, I am ambitious, and now I need some help.
« Reply #5 on: October 29, 2008, 09:32:26 PM »
you cannot make direct-connected lights go on and off with the wifi or hold switches. For the direct contact lights to work correctly(pulse to music) the + and - have to be connected directly to the + and - of the speaker. Hence the name direct-connected. You have to add another switch to turn the direct connect lights on and off.

Yes you can solder directly to the speaker. In fact that's the easiest way to do it. Do you also want the UMD door lights to flash to music? If not, then you can connect them as shown in the diagram by alphex.

If you want to turn the sound reactive LEDs on and off with the hold or wifi switches, you need an audio amp such as the LM386.  This is a lot more complex and takes more time. It may look better though. Let me know if your interested in the amp and I can show you where to get it and how to hook it up.
Any Questions? Please Contact Me: rceckspurt13@gmail.com

Offline ApheX

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Re: Why yes, I am ambitious, and now I need some help.
« Reply #6 on: October 30, 2008, 03:55:39 AM »
I see now, I just didn't know if the wifi switch in the diagram was showing just a wiring layout or actually where to solder :tup:... And also, on the phat (, can't you solder directly to the speaker, as seen in this tut: https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=22685.0

Because I know the contact points to solder to directly on the speaker are a heck of a lot bigger, and probably easier to solder to. And thanks for answering my questions so far  :#1:

Np, yes you can directly solder to the speakers. i do that and it is a hell of a lot easier.

Offline alentris

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Re: Why yes, I am ambitious, and now I need some help.
« Reply #7 on: October 30, 2008, 07:58:35 AM »
So i can't do direct contact leds to the speakers and have them activated by the wifi switch??  :faint:  I looked at the amp method and it looks a whooole lot harder that the direct contact, but I also wouldn't be able to stand leds being on in the middle of watching a move...  :cry2: I'm torn!

But also, if I were to solder the positive wire of the led to the speaker's positive trace, and then solder the negative wire to the wifi switch, and then solder another wire from the wifi switch to the speaker's negative trace, might that work??  :confused: it's just a hope. and yes, I would like to have the umd lights flash to the music.

Thanks to HiddenVenom for the sig!

Offline rceckspurt13

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Re: Why yes, I am ambitious, and now I need some help.
« Reply #8 on: October 30, 2008, 02:37:33 PM »
the second way you said won't work either. Connecting the two negatives together will cancel eachother out. So no that dosent work. Like I said, if you want to turn the direct connected ones on and off, you have to add another switch to the circuit.

Your right though, the amp way is slot more complicated. I think just about anyone could do it though, given enough time. Once you know the circuit, its simply a matter of soldering wires and lights.
Any Questions? Please Contact Me: rceckspurt13@gmail.com

Offline alentris

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Re: Why yes, I am ambitious, and now I need some help.
« Reply #9 on: October 30, 2008, 02:52:29 PM »
So if I were going to use a switch (which I probably will do), where could I buy something along the lines of a 1 switch dip switch? I was thinking, I have some of that extra silver trim lying around, and I could probably use an exact-o knife to cut a whole in the left trim about the size of a a dip switch, and control it on/off through there :tup: So, If I could do that, it would rock too.

Thanks to HiddenVenom for the sig!

Offline rceckspurt13

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Re: Why yes, I am ambitious, and now I need some help.
« Reply #10 on: October 30, 2008, 05:41:51 PM »
I would check radioshack for the switch. That's where I buy my components. And I don't think there will be room on the left side for it but there's a big empty space just asking for a switch on the right side.
Any Questions? Please Contact Me: rceckspurt13@gmail.com

Offline alentris

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Re: Why yes, I am ambitious, and now I need some help.
« Reply #11 on: October 31, 2008, 08:29:02 AM »
 :tup: Thanks, I'm probably gonna head to radioshack to get that switch tomorrow, seeing as it will be saturday, and I'll have some extra time. I'll probably be done with this next week some time, I hope... (I'm a perfectionist, I re-took apart my psp when I finished my first case mod, because the umd door spring wasn't in exact place)
And thanks yet again, you guys rock.  :hifive:

So, this is my shopping list

10- 0603 red smd leds (they come in 5-packs at llama)
2- ft 30 AWG Kynar wire
1- Dip Switch
1- cd case

Thanks to HiddenVenom for the sig!

 

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