Author Topic: Would this plan work? (Read 8391 times)

pspupgrade · « **on:** February 02, 2009, 01:04:40 PM »

Hi. I hope this isn't a noob question, but anyway....
I've been searching quite a lot through the forums and now I just want to check if there's anything wrong with my plans
(which I am guessing there probably is). I'm using 6 100mcd Yellow 0603 SMD LEDs ( http://tinyurl.com/yellow-0603 )
and a 27ohm resistor. I'm trying to do a sound-reactive LED Mod with
hold switch activation. Here's the diagram.

Is there anything I should add/improve/change/remove?
Thanks

bustinthejustin · « **Reply #1 on:** February 02, 2009, 01:38:30 PM »

Okay you either need

a) an amp to use hold switch
or
b) don't use an amp but then you can't use hold switch.

treemty · « **Reply #2 on:** February 02, 2009, 01:41:00 PM »

justin, that was by far the dumbest thing you have every said
yes you CAN use the hold switch without an amp, I will try and get you a pinout

gangzta · « **Reply #3 on:** February 02, 2009, 01:49:41 PM »

Sorry but, if you put a yellow to a 5V pin than need you beetwen them a 150 Ohm resistor... 5-2V=3:0,02=150

but you use only a 27 Ohm resistor for the LED which is put to the 5V.

I hope you understand what I say ^^

wfg

bustinthejustin · « **Reply #4 on:** February 02, 2009, 01:53:04 PM »

Treemty, show me using hold switch with direct connect...

rceckspurt13 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 02, 2009, 04:53:53 PM »

Well from what I've learned, you cannot have sound reactive LEDs hooked to the hold switch without the use of an LM386 or other similar audio amplifier ic. The reason is simple, the LEDs need the + AND the - of the speaker to be able to light up. In theory, using a seperate ground point should be possible, but it does not work. If it did, everyone would use this method.

There may be a way to do it with a PNP transistor. That way when the transistor is attached to the negative (ground) point at the hold switch, it will conduct causing the LEDs to light. Although this is just an idea of mine.

bustinthejustin · « **Reply #6 on:** February 02, 2009, 05:47:43 PM »

It works with an NPN transistor, as shown by FolkLord and his mod for the slim.

rceckspurt13 · « **Reply #7 on:** February 02, 2009, 05:55:54 PM »

Well i'd like a diagram. I think I know how it would go but I'd like to be sure. That would make it a lot easier for me to have lights. I would like sound reactive ones but I don't want them on all the time. Also I don't have the time or privacy to install an amp. (my parents don't know I mod and they would probably flip a lid if they found out)

bustinthejustin · « **Reply #8 on:** February 02, 2009, 05:58:21 PM »

Wow that's sucks. My dad supports my 100% in modding. Anyway, diagram:

Actual tut for slim:

https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=27307.0

alentris · « **Reply #9 on:** February 02, 2009, 07:21:23 PM »

Quote from: rceckspurt13 on February 02, 2009, 05:55:54 PM

my parents don't know I mod and they would probably flip a lid if they found out

Wow, I never would have learned to even Solder if my dad hadn't taught me. We worked together to restore broken pinball machine

. My dad was the one that first got me into it, actually...

rceckspurt13 · « **Reply #10 on:** February 02, 2009, 10:04:04 PM »

Yeah justin, there's just one problem. To do it that way, it still requires a 5 or 3.6 volt source. Thats all good and well but the hold switch provides only a ground. Same goes for the wifi switch. So you still need a seperate switch to turn the 3.6 or 5 volts on and off.

pspupgrade · « **Reply #11 on:** February 03, 2009, 01:09:57 AM »

Hi again guys. Thanks for all the help.
I've been thinking a bit about this mod and decided that I should try and make it function in the same way as intended, but using a dip switch and 2 transistors (which you'll probably prove wrong being me

).

Anyway, would this idea work? Also, if it did work, where would the dip switch go?

Thanks in advance you guys. You rock!

bustinthejustin · « **Reply #12 on:** February 03, 2009, 09:45:30 AM »

Oops good point Rceck.

rceckspurt13 · « **Reply #13 on:** February 03, 2009, 04:09:34 PM »

Well allow me some time and I'll make a diagram of what I was thinking. Then you guys can tell me if it'll work or not. I think it should work but I'm not really an expert.

EDIT: heres the diagram. i think it should work because the PNP transistor will only conduct if a negative charge is applied to the base. This could come from the wifi or hold switches. this would allow hold actived direct connected leds. Im not sure what number of transistor would be ideal for this so thats why there is no spacific transistor stated in the diagram. i would also need to know this to do the mod.

image:

let me know if you think this will work

bustinthejustin · « **Reply #14 on:** February 03, 2009, 07:54:35 PM »

That picture was by folklord. But I don't really understand transistors so I wouldn't know if your thing works or not. BUT, from my understanding it wouldn't. Because you can't really alter ground can you? I mean, ground is ground. But for an NPN transistor, the voltage going into the base can be changed. I dunno I have a very small understanding of transistors...

rceckspurt13 · « **Reply #15 on:** February 03, 2009, 08:41:57 PM »

Well you are not changing the ground. All you are doing is supplying he transistor with a ground. That allows the + of the speaker to pass through the transistor to the led.

bustinthejustin · « **Reply #16 on:** February 03, 2009, 09:06:41 PM »

Yeah but then it's basically a direct connect with a swith and some amplification. But curious as to how reactive it would be so I'm probably gonna try it and the npn method. I assume eBay is the best place to get some transistor as I don't live in the us?

pspupgrade · « **Reply #17 on:** February 03, 2009, 10:33:31 PM »

Quote from: rceckspurt13 on February 03, 2009, 04:09:34 PM

Well allow me some time and I'll make a diagram of what I was thinking. Then you guys can tell me if it'll work or not. I think it should work but I'm not really an expert.

EDIT: heres the diagram. i think it should work because the PNP transistor will only conduct if a negative charge is applied to the base. This could come from the wifi or hold switches. this would allow hold actived direct connected leds. Im not sure what number of transistor would be ideal for this so thats why there is no spacific transistor stated in the diagram. i would also need to know this to do the mod.

image:

let me know if you think this will work

Searched around a bit on the internet and found this useful little diagram for an NPN transistor.

If you look on the homepage on the news, you should see "The new way uses a single 2n222 NPN Transistor you can buy at Radio Shack." So, we're not using a PNP transistor. That's the opposite of NPN.

The NPN stands for "Negative, Positive, Negative". As in this diagram, the power, which is the P of NPN, is where the power is coming into the transistor. So, that power should be coming from the + of the speaker. Then there are two negatives, the base and the emitter. The emitter would normally connect to the ground, but as these are sound-reactive, they'll go to the negative of the speaker, as you need the positive and negative for them to be sound reactive. So, that leads us with the negative emitter. The emitter, hence the name, will send that power TO the positive leg of the LED. We'd probably have our resistor there. Then we should be able to connect that LED to the hold switch and ground.

So, we'll probably have to mix rceck's diagram and Folk's. In Folk's diagram the emitter is connected to the negative leg of the LED, but shouldn't it connect to the positive like in Rceck's?

I'll knock up a diagram when I'm back from school later, but that was just a brainwave.

rceckspurt13 · « **Reply #18 on:** February 04, 2009, 07:14:17 AM »

I used a PNP transistor in my diagram so that it would get the charge it needs to conduct from the ground. I guess I'll just have to get some pnp transistor and try. I can get a pack of 15 for like a dollar at radioshack.

pspupgrade · « **Reply #19 on:** February 04, 2009, 09:53:01 AM »

Quote from: dither on February 02, 2009, 10:55:54 PM

has anyone been able to replicate this? everything i've tried seems to fail. i've tried to use both 5v and 12v lights with no success. i'm confused as to where ground would be, that is if it isn't speaker -? can anyone actually explain the science behind this? because i'm completely confused.

edit: seems my ccfls wont work with this design because even though the specs say they are 12v they function the same with only a 5v source, but then again.. wouldn't they light up either way? and after doing some research on NPN transistors i'm even more confused on your schematic? wouldn't you connect the speaker+ to the base, speaker- to the emitter and then the led and its source to the collector? because in NPN transistors the base controls the current flow of the controller not the emitter?

Quoted from Folk's tutorial.
Sounds like there might be a little error in Folk's diagram.

Anyway, this is what I was thinking earlier:

rceckspurt13 · « **Reply #20 on:** February 04, 2009, 10:14:13 PM »

No there is no error in his diagram. It is the + of the speaker that is causing the LEDs to turn on and off. The - is passing through the transister and the + allows it to pass.

dither · « **Reply #21 on:** February 04, 2009, 10:20:16 PM »

i'm not sure how that would work out, other than being a direct connect sound reactive led with no external power. the problem i'm having is understanding how he incorporated an external power source to the mix. according to this page the base controls how much current is flowing through the collector to the emitter and power cannot travel backwards because it functions like a diode. being you need the + and - of the speaker to have sound reactive leds (because of the AC) i see no solution to adding external power at this time (being it would be DC?) or am i completely misunderstanding how this all works?

rceckspurt13 · « **Reply #22 on:** February 05, 2009, 06:17:39 AM »

You are misunderstood. In folklords diagram, there is no power being added to the circuit. The 3.6 or 5 volts goes straight to the led. In my diagram there is no power being added either.

Think of a transistor as a switch(because thats basically what it is). When you apply power to the base, you are not actually adding power to the circuit. Rather, you are just performing the action of turning the switch on and allowing the power to pass. From the collector to the emitter.

pspupgrade · « **Reply #23 on:** February 05, 2009, 09:48:58 AM »

OK. Thanks RC.

So, anyway, since there's going to be a dip switch in this circuit, where on the PSP would it go?

dither · « **Reply #24 on:** February 05, 2009, 03:23:14 PM »

Quote from: rceckspurt13 on February 05, 2009, 06:17:39 AM

You are misunderstood. In folklords diagram, there is no power being added to the circuit. The 3.6 or 5 volts goes straight to the led. In my diagram there is no power being added either.

Think of a transistor as a switch(because thats basically what it is). When you apply power to the base, you are not actually adding power to the circuit. Rather, you are just performing the action of turning the switch on and allowing the power to pass. From the collector to the emitter.

exactly my problem in understanding how folk did his circuit. the power has to flow through the LED to SOMEWHERE right? it's flowing to the transistor but where is it going? the speaker- is not a ground and neither is speaker+? the power is flowing nowhere thus that circuit would not work..

rceckspurt13 · « **Reply #25 on:** February 05, 2009, 03:47:42 PM »

See thats were your problem in understanding is. You are assuming that the + 3.6 or 5 volts is flowing into the transistor. Thats where you are wrong. The - from the speaker is traveling through the transistor towards the led.

dither · « **Reply #26 on:** February 05, 2009, 04:19:00 PM »

thats exactly what i don't understand, why would you tap into the +3.6 or 5v and not to ground in the first place?

rceckspurt13 · « **Reply #27 on:** February 05, 2009, 09:33:39 PM »

You would tap onto the + 3.6 or 5 volts because the transistor controls only the - side of the circuit. You still need the + to come from somewhere and thus you use the + 3.6 or 5 volt points.

pspupgrade · « **Reply #28 on:** February 05, 2009, 10:13:41 PM »

So, are we still using the 2n2222 NPN transistors? I've just ordered a few.

Would it work to cut a space in the trim on the right for the dip switch?

rceckspurt13 · « **Reply #29 on:** February 06, 2009, 06:21:32 AM »

Sure. Thats where I would put it. There is plenty of room there.

pspupgrade · « **Reply #30 on:** February 06, 2009, 12:52:58 PM »

Great. Thanks for the help everyone, especially justin and rc

Can I just run the final circuitry through you one last time before the modding takes place?

Thanks again

bustinthejustin · « **Reply #31 on:** February 06, 2009, 01:52:52 PM »

Looks okay to me, but uh what's with the two leds just out there? You just want some solid leds? Anyway I'm probably not one to ask about circuits so wait for someone else's opinion.

rceckspurt13 · « **Reply #32 on:** February 06, 2009, 03:27:40 PM »

Ok that will work fine. Only thing is that the two LEDs on the farthest right will be solid on. But thats probably what you wanted right? Also, and this dosent really affect anything) but you got the polarity wrong on the two right LEDs. LOL just make sure to put them in the correct way in the psp.

pspupgrade · « **Reply #33 on:** February 06, 2009, 11:47:55 PM »

Yes, I did want those solid LEDs from the start. I thought it would be nice to have them in the directional buttons so that it's not just continous flashing lights all the time.

I'll correct those wrong positives and negatives too. I was in a rush and just copied and pasted the text at the time

Thanks guys.

I might post pics in a couple of weeks.

News:

Author Topic: Would this plan work? (Read 8391 times)