Author Topic: All buttons lighting... (Read 7259 times)

thearkman2009 · « **on:** April 02, 2009, 05:48:10 PM »

Could someone draw me up a quick diagram of how they think this could be done? Include what value resistors I would need and all pertinent information.

LED specs: Blue, 20 mAh, 3.0 to 3.2 volts.

What I need to be built into the diagram: (all connected in parallel)

7 LEDs - (home row)
4 LEDs - (d-pad)
4 LEDs - (X, [], /\, () buttons)
2 LEDs - (L + R triggers)
2 LEDs - (clear analog stick)

I would like each of those sections to be seperate, because I wont be doing all sets right away. I also need these to be sound reactive/always on (switchable). I want to use the WIFI switch only if possible, as I actually USE the HOLD switch from time to time, but if I have to use the HOLD switch AND the WIFI switch, then I can live with it. lol

I have ways to do it, but I want some input from others on here, and possibly those who have done things similar. I have a CR-3100 mod coming soon, and will be LED lit as well, but that will be later.

Thanks in advance guys!

DarkShot · « **Reply #1 on:** April 02, 2009, 06:22:28 PM »

So you do know, there is no way you`ll be able to run all those LEDs in series. They`ll have to be connected in parallel.

When connecting LEDs in series, the need more voltage, and share the amperage.

If in parallel, they share the voltage, and split up the current.

Thought I'd clear that little bit up.

thearkman2009 · « **Reply #2 on:** April 02, 2009, 06:29:05 PM »

yes, thank you. I am getting pretty tired. I thought I posted it wrong, but was too lazy to go back an fix it. lol I will correct it in a second.

MARIOPARTY53 · « **Reply #3 on:** April 02, 2009, 09:29:09 PM »

plus another thing, you wont be able to fit leds under the home buttonsAND ANOTHER THING, THE CLEARS BUTTONS SUCK AND ARE CHEAP, THEY BREAK IN HALF, AND NOT OEM,USE OEM BECUASE IT THE ONLY BUTTONS THAT WORK RIGHT

OEM IS NOT FOR WUSSIES \
lol just thought i would share that

thearkman2009 · « **Reply #4 on:** April 02, 2009, 10:53:24 PM »

Thats where your getting confused then. They dont go UNDER the buttons, they go NEXT to the buttons. There is plenty of room on the faceplate I modified, and it wont even show from the outside. I have the clear button set now, and it works just fine for me. I actually like this set better than my original black ones.

alentris · « **Reply #5 on:** April 03, 2009, 06:56:34 PM »

Quote from: thearkman2009 on April 02, 2009, 10:53:24 PM

You heard me, OEM is for wussies!

why is oem for wussies when it all functions better that any 3rd party product. Unless of course you are referring to firmware, in which oem is in improper terminology.

thearkman2009 · « **Reply #6 on:** April 03, 2009, 08:59:55 PM »

pretty off subject, but would you be happier if it said "STOCK is for wussies"?

W-Gaming5 · « **Reply #7 on:** April 03, 2009, 09:19:32 PM »

thearkman2009 · « **Reply #8 on:** April 03, 2009, 09:33:58 PM »

If OEM is better, then why do we mod? (think about it for a sec, you will see what I mean) Is a CR-3100 or 5400 and OEM part? How about the LEDs that we use, or the speakers used for the UMD door mods? All your clear cases, buttons, UMD doors, and so on, are not OEM, they are 3rd party. If you want to stick with OEM, DONT TOUCH YOUR CONSOLE.

Just to clarify (for the sake of the point really quick), OEM stands for Orgininal Equipment Manufacturer. Sony the OEM for the PSP (its THEIRS). Stuff from CoolMods.co.uk, are not OEM, they are not made by Sony.

MARIOPARTY53 · « **Reply #9 on:** April 03, 2009, 09:51:38 PM »

Quote from: thearkman2009 on April 03, 2009, 09:33:58 PM

If OEM is better, then why do we mod? (think about it for a sec, you will see what I mean) Is a CR-3100 or 5400 and OEM part? How about the LEDs that we use, or the speakers used for the UMD door mods? All your clear cases, buttons, UMD doors, and so on, are not OEM, they are 3rd party. If you want to stick with OEM, DONT TOUCH YOUR CONSOLE.

Just to clarify (for the sake of the point really quick), OEM stands for Orgininal Equipment Manufacturer. Sony the OEM for the PSP (its THEIRS). Stuff from CoolMods.co.uk, are not OEM, they are not made by Sony.

THATS THE THING
ALOT OF PARTS MEED OEM,ESPICALLY THE BUTTONS, YOUR GOING TO SEE WITHIN A MONTH THAT THOSE CLEAR BOTTON ARE GOING TO SNAP IN HALF,ETC

My god,where trying to let oyu know befor you waste your time with this mod, becuase if you do, your buttons will feel funny and loose alot of gameplay quailty

To me, if it dosnt funtion like it should, then its not worth it, yeah maybe it will be cool, but to me, id rather be able to njoy my psp then hate it and have it look kool

W-Gaming5 · « **Reply #10 on:** April 03, 2009, 10:06:05 PM »

MARIOPARTY53 · « **Reply #11 on:** April 03, 2009, 10:13:43 PM »

Quote from: W-Gaming5 on April 03, 2009, 10:06:05 PM

i said oems better
someplaces hav good 3rd party products like coolmods(i know this aint oem), (some)DealXtreme, and other places
but oem is still the best

+ i ment stuff like cheap buttons and fake batterys n memorysticks
other stuff is pretty legit
i didnt say all 3rd party sucks

coolmods buttons arnt good either! their like excact replicas to deal extreme,if not, the same!

bustinthejustin · « **Reply #12 on:** April 03, 2009, 10:16:22 PM »

technically dealextreme are replicas to coolmods. I heard coolmods are slightly better, but if not, their customer service is still better and I know that for sure.

W-Gaming5 · « **Reply #13 on:** April 03, 2009, 10:22:20 PM »

thearkman2009 · « **Reply #14 on:** April 04, 2009, 12:51:23 PM »

I have actually had my clear buttons for about a week now. They are installed, and I dont notice any significant change in functionality. I dont have to push really hard on the buttons for them to work, and I actually like this let better. The texture is not completely smooth, which is something I like better. The home row buttons are flush with the faceplate, better than the stock row, and are a little easier to push on.

Everyone is going to have their opinions as to how/if this stuff should be done. Just because one person says "it cant be done" and another says "it sucks", does NOT mean that it suddenly becomes impossible, or unusable. Just because YOU dont think there is room to fit the wires and LEDs in the space I found, does NOT mean that they WONT fit. Dont be shooting me down, because I am able to figure out or do something that you CANT. Everyone on here has different skills. I wont go over why my SIG says what it does, thats a dead subject. If your sig said something like
Grandmas are HOT!", I wont pass judgement. Its up to you. Dont pass judgement on me. Also, its about time to lock this thread, because this is getting out of hand too much. I will give it a bit more time, but if this continues, its

. Try to be nice and helpful people, thats all we are one here for.

~:Dhruv:~ · « **Reply #15 on:** April 04, 2009, 01:22:23 PM »

yup fully agree, actually i think the individual leds will look pretty sweet... Might attempt this after seeing how it turns out on yours

PhenomenalDesigns · « **Reply #16 on:** April 04, 2009, 02:10:42 PM »

I found out by filing the clear cheap buttons with glue (Hot glue, super glue, any that is solid that doesnt dissolve) it adds the correct weight and what not and it feels very similiar to OEM

W-Gaming5 · « **Reply #17 on:** April 04, 2009, 03:18:00 PM »

bustinthejustin · « **Reply #18 on:** April 04, 2009, 05:58:57 PM »

Adding LEDs into all the dpad and O[]/\X buttons is completely possible, it's very easy. As for wiring and all that, just wire all the leds in parallel and wire it to the 5v point. You shouldn't need a diagram. Homebar, never been done so good luck to you. L+R, EVERYBODY'S done it, so I doubt you will have much trouble with that.

Good luck.

thearkman2009 · « **Reply #19 on:** April 04, 2009, 07:35:55 PM »

See. Thats what I like to hear. THOSE are helpful suggestions. I actually thought about filling in the buttons with something, but for some reason, never actually did it. I will try it with superglue, as its strong, clear, and can be filed pretty easyily to the thickness needed.

My FIRST project will be getting the home row lit up. After that, its all good with the rest of the buttons. I have the triggers direct contact reactive right now, but that will change. I might just go with a few LM386's to do the sound reactive mods. But as soon as I get my home row finished, I will take pictures, and video showing everyone how I did it.

kimbrough · « **Reply #20 on:** April 06, 2009, 09:58:00 PM »

if u are doing this mod u should do the psp cooling mod also

W-Gaming5 · « **Reply #21 on:** April 16, 2009, 07:29:19 PM »

thearkman2009 · « **Reply #22 on:** April 16, 2009, 10:16:41 PM »

lol, some people are slower than others. I have currently removed both my home row LED mod, and my cooling mod, and set them aside seperately for now. I am working on other mods, so I want to get them working, before I merge everything together. That makes for a whole lot less wires to deal with. I have a temporary custom jewel in my UMD door right now, but it not NOT final. I have a MAJOR setup planned for that baby! It WILL replace the cooling mod, but will be worth it. lol I have a couple more tricks up my sleeve, so keep your eyes peeled to my topics!

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #23 on:** April 16, 2009, 10:19:45 PM »

wow theark thats crazy led modding ur talking about lol

thearkman2009 · « **Reply #24 on:** April 16, 2009, 10:43:08 PM »

You have no idea what I am up to in my evil laboratory! lol All I can tell you right now, is that I have something planned where in the UMD area, I will have some parts that will MOVE while also being lit up. There will also be speakers, LEDs, electrical components, and other stuff, all visible at the same time. I wont release any pics yet, but you wont want to miss it!

I have not done all the calculations yet, but I estimate that there will be at LEAST 40 or so LEDs throughout the whole PSP, when all mods are combined. That number could change, as its just an estimate right now. (not far off though)

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #25 on:** April 16, 2009, 11:03:26 PM »

wow man i cant wait to see this then thats going to be tight from what im hearing

i7vSa7vi7y · « **Reply #26 on:** April 22, 2009, 06:59:27 PM »

looks like everythings going good for you. Cant wait to see some pics or a video. i might come back to you later on because im planning on doing the all button mod besides the home row. but maybe after your mod i might add the home row.

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #27 on:** April 22, 2009, 07:04:10 PM »

he has mnore up his sleeves were trying to figure another thing out

i7vSa7vi7y · « **Reply #28 on:** April 23, 2009, 07:01:19 PM »

i wanna do this but i have crystal clear face and back so it wont look good unless the LEDs are in the buttons

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #29 on:** April 24, 2009, 11:34:31 AM »

try doing that then

i7vSa7vi7y · « **Reply #30 on:** April 27, 2009, 07:09:55 PM »

yeah maybe but idk it would be pretty hard and im trying to get everything i need before i start the project and idk how i wud hook up the lm386 with 16 leds or 24 if i did the home row and a speaker in umd door.

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #31 on:** April 27, 2009, 09:35:59 PM »

then split up i7vSa7vi7yu can have on lm386 for 12 of the leds and another for the other 12.

i7vSa7vi7y · « **Reply #32 on:** April 29, 2009, 08:49:25 PM »

what im saying is i wouldnt know how to hook everything up. like i need a diagram and all that. and for the home row ima wait and see how his turns out. im also gunna add a speaker in the UMD door and possible the internal chotto shot. The locations for LEDs are

Heres where the leds will be.
all d pad and X,O,[],/\ = 8
triggers and speaker holes = 4
umd door around speaker = 4

rceckspurt13 · « **Reply #33 on:** April 29, 2009, 09:54:29 PM »

I've made several diagrams relating to the lm386 with speakers, LEDs, or both. Unfortunately I'm not at my computer right now so I'm unable to link you the pictures right now. (I'm on my iPod touch) The diagrams are floating around on this site though. If someone else would like to find them for you they should be able to. Otherwise I'll post them sometime tomorrow.

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #34 on:** April 29, 2009, 10:11:50 PM »

Yea rceck done several but some had to be edited after they were tested.

i7vSa7vi7y · « **Reply #35 on:** May 01, 2009, 06:52:55 AM »

alright. thanks for the help. is there a certaint way i have to do it depending on how many LEDs or anything like that? ill search for it when i get home from school and thank you that would be great if you could make 1 for me.

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #36 on:** May 01, 2009, 09:10:08 AM »

When your wiring up the leds make sure there in a parallel not series.

i7vSa7vi7y · « **Reply #37 on:** May 01, 2009, 08:05:56 PM »

wait a series would be like ----0------0-----0-----0 basically right?

rceckspurt13 · « **Reply #38 on:** May 01, 2009, 08:12:08 PM »

Yeah that's series. That's how you dont want to put them. I'll put up those diagrams in a little bit once I get my computer booted up.

Here are the diagrams ive made for the LM386 in various applications:

Speaker- Two Different Ways:

Speaker and leds:

Switchable Leds- Solid/Sound reactive:

Switchable Leds- Purple/Blue and Solid/Sound Reactive:

^That one is the one that was edited. Only the Bottom switch was changed from a 3.6v source to a 5v one. Its also the most complicated.

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #39 on:** May 02, 2009, 10:48:40 PM »

Quote from: i7vSa7vi7y on May 01, 2009, 08:05:56 PM

wait a series would be like ----0------0-----0-----0 basically right?

Yes thats correct.

Take a look at those diagram they will hep you and make sure to test them. Some times there a few flaws that have to be fixed

i7vSa7vi7y · « **Reply #40 on:** May 05, 2009, 03:41:03 PM »

wow thanks alot. that sounds like a good idea to have them lit sound reactent. so if i hooked a switch for the leds to output it would only turn off and on/sound reactant right? what would i have to do to make it. lite,off,sound reactant?

ok for audio +,- i could use the original psp speaker wire right? and where would the +5 volt input go? one more question, what is ground?

sorry for the noob questions lol im still new to this.

rceckspurt13 · « **Reply #41 on:** May 05, 2009, 04:45:21 PM »

Your welcome. If you follow the second diagrM, you can make the LEDs be sound reactive or just on constantly.

The audio comes from the original psp speaker. - and +.

Ground means - and there is a 5volt spot on the motherboard. It's below the right speaker connector. Someone may have a picture of it so just wait.

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #42 on:** May 05, 2009, 06:21:59 PM »

Yea just hook all the ground wires of the leds to the wifi instead of installing a switch or there is another but you have to cut a trace and that is the hold on the power switch.

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Author Topic: All buttons lighting... (Read 7259 times)