Author Topic: WORLDS FIRST PSP FULL HOME ROW LED MOD!!!!! (Read 18510 times)

thearkman2009 · « **on:** April 07, 2009, 12:43:29 AM »

At least as far as I know. Its successful, and all buttons DO work! I did not sacrifice any buttons for this mod. This took MANY hours of tweaking and SMT soldering with a soldering iron that is not designed for small components. Tights spaces, and a couple mutilated faceplates were the result of this mod. I did not take any pictures of my progress as I was more concerned with trying to figure out how to do the next step. I will disassemble the unit in a few days, and take pics to show you how it was done. This will be VERY hard to replicate, but if you have the skills, its not impossible.

Another note, I did NOT drill holes into my triggers to get them to light up. The little slanted parts, just below the slope of the triggers, is where I drilled two holes (each) and then dropped the wires from the LEDs through the holes. There is plenty of clearance to fit an LED there. This will save your messing up the triggers, and I personally think it lights better, and looks better too!

For now, check out my new video, low quality, sorry, but you should be able to see without a doubt that it works! More info later on. Thanks!

thearkman2009

Materials needed:

1) 0603 SMD LEDs
2) 30 gauge Kynar wire
3) Ribbon cable from PSP screens backlight (Phat)
4) Set of clear home row buttons
5) 60/40 rosin core solder
6) 15 watt soldering iron with fine tip
7) Dremel with fine point grinding tips
8) Wire clippers/stippers
9) A sharp razor blade
10) A LOT of patience!

1) Take your Dremel and look at the clear buttons. In the middle of each button will be a small nipple. That needs to be removed, but ONLY remove that part. The depth of that part is about the thickness of the LED, so it works out great.
2) Remove the backlight ribbon cable from a dead screen, and remove the LEDs that are on it. Cut the ribbon cable roughly in a 60/40 split. Line up the ribbon cable and clear buttons and mark on the cable the CENTER of each button on the lower two traces.
3) Use the razor blade to scratch off some of the coating where the LEDs will go, but not too much, as you want to keep the solder blobs to a minimal amount, so they fit inside the buttons little cavity. At the far left side of the ribbon, where it goes up in two traces, you need to cut the trace coming from the middle trace. Then bridge the center trace to the top trace and you will have a full circuit. In this way, the lower trace is one side, and the middle and top traces are BOTH used for the other side. Do this to allow the LED to have plenty of contact area for your solder.
4) Solder on the LEDs in the same direction. This will prevent any future confusion and headache, if you want to convert the LED strip to allow it to connect to the LM386. Start with the lower trace, then attach it to the closest part of the middle trace.
5) Now remove the coating on the traces where you cut the ribbon in two. Use minimal 30 gauge wire to attach the two parts together, middle trace to middle trace, and bottom trace to bottom trace. Also, bridge any parts of the middle traces you have to to complete the circuit. Cut the far end off, including the resistor, but dont bridge the end or you will end up with a short.
6) The part of the ribbon cable that used to connect to the motherboard, needs to have the end cut off (leave it as long as you can), remove the coating down to the traces, and solder some wire onto the ends. Those will be your + and -.
7) When you install this, make sure the ribbon cable loops UNDER the home row bar, then back under the LCD cage.

W-Gaming5 · « **Reply #1 on:** April 07, 2009, 12:55:03 AM »

thearkman2009 · « **Reply #2 on:** April 07, 2009, 12:56:38 AM »

well, your definitly the first to reply. The video is about 50% uploaded, so it will take a few more minutes. Hang in there, and try not to get too much drool on your keyboard! lol

There you go guys, video is up. Let me know what you think!

robin1989 · « **Reply #3 on:** April 07, 2009, 01:09:56 AM »

wow that looks pretty damm cool

gamerdude767 · « **Reply #4 on:** April 07, 2009, 01:10:29 AM »

OMG that looks sick dude!! keep up the awesomeness work

thearkman2009 · « **Reply #5 on:** April 07, 2009, 01:14:25 AM »

I have the clear dpad and ABXY buttons on the workbench right now. Those will also be lit (one LED per button).

I also found some pretty cool plastic pieces in the back of the screen when I took it apart. There is a diffusing plastic part that is used to disperse the light from the LEDs. Its pretty thick. I might try to use that as a custom jewel in the UMD door, and light it from the sides, so it lights up fully, rather than just where the plastic has been scratched or etched (like a normal jewel design).

W-Gaming5 · « **Reply #6 on:** April 07, 2009, 01:22:23 AM »

thearkman2009 · « **Reply #7 on:** April 07, 2009, 01:38:05 AM »

And thats not the end of it either. I have 2 clear analog sticks on the way as well. Those will both be lit up as well. I dont have solid plans for the UMD door mods yet, but trust me, it will be SICK!

atomicareprise · « **Reply #8 on:** April 07, 2009, 01:44:51 AM »

cool!!!i'll definitely want that mod on my next project...

nice work buddy!!

keep it up

JoblessPunk · « **Reply #9 on:** April 07, 2009, 02:11:28 AM »

wow, congrats man!
I'm not to big into tons of LEDs, but you did an amazing job and it looks awesome!

MARIOPARTY53 · « **Reply #10 on:** April 07, 2009, 09:18:34 AM »

idk if it would be that hard...
But this is really cool though

And iw ould definetly try this some time

krazyone2006 · « **Reply #11 on:** April 07, 2009, 09:34:01 AM »

nice man i like it can't wait to see how you did it i have been trying to figure a way out to do it too LOL can't wait hopefully you make a nice tutorial so everyone who wants to do it can do it keep up the good work man

just wanna see how you did it with the backlight from the screen cause i got 12 extra phat screens sittin here so i can afford to mess a couple up perfecting it lol

thearkman2009 · « **Reply #12 on:** April 07, 2009, 10:17:53 AM »

I will attempt to make a tutorial, but be warned, the way I did it was NOT easy. Now that I have it done, it should be a little easier to explain it, but the work will still need done, and there is a fair amount of it. I will explain breifly in the first post.

thearkman2009 · « **Reply #13 on:** April 10, 2009, 01:06:00 AM »

I will have a tutorial up before I sell the unit. There will be a FULL button lighing mod to the unit before its done.

thearkman2009 · « **Reply #14 on:** April 11, 2009, 11:35:57 AM »

A couple pics of for the tutorial!

treemty · « **Reply #15 on:** April 11, 2009, 11:43:15 AM »

please dont tripple/double post
cant wait for the tut

krazyone2006 · « **Reply #16 on:** April 11, 2009, 02:31:41 PM »

question which side is positive and which is negative when you got to solder the new LEDs to the ribbon or does it matter? i know your making a tutorial but i can't wait trying it now and have the backlight cable all ready for the new LEDs LOL

thearkman2009 · « **Reply #17 on:** April 11, 2009, 02:45:18 PM »

Well, if your doing it with direct contact to the speaker terminals like I did, then it does not matter, but in case you want to add it into the LM386 method or something, then keep then all facing the same direction, and just remember which side is positive and which is nagative.

krazyone2006 · « **Reply #18 on:** April 11, 2009, 07:17:11 PM »

ok just wanted to ask didn't know if it mattered thanks for the answer and if you buy 3rd party buttons too they are usually just clear buttons painted on the top so a LED should still shine through those going to try it with either the chrome or red metallic buttons i got here will let you know how it works

thearkman2009 · « **Reply #19 on:** April 11, 2009, 07:20:07 PM »

Yeah, let me know. I know they DONT work with the stock black buttons as the solid black plastic material that makes up most of the button has a VERY thin clear coating on it, so you would practially have to drill ALL THE WAY through the button to get to the clear part, and if you do get that far, the button is so weak, it will just break under the first sign of pressure. Plus they dont have the room inside the button like the clear set I got does.

But sure, let me know how it works for you.

EliteGamer83 · « **Reply #20 on:** April 11, 2009, 07:25:19 PM »

Sorry for being so off-topic but Dude your avatar reminds me of Bam Margera.

HEY who gave me another -? I didnt even do anything you guys

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #21 on:** April 11, 2009, 10:38:06 PM »

dude thats dope i love it nice job i may try this cuz i have a few broken back lights nice job man

thearkman2009 · « **Reply #22 on:** April 12, 2009, 12:55:16 AM »

I have been working now for about 2 hours or so, and now have the dpad ALSO lit up. Tomorrow I will be working on the ABXY buttons, so this thing will be able to light a room up! lol I will take pictures along the way.

mastapsp · « **Reply #23 on:** April 12, 2009, 02:01:03 AM »

Nice work but the overall look doesn't seem to be worth all that effort if they were more spread out it would be cooler

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #24 on:** April 12, 2009, 05:51:40 PM »

sweet u should try doing push reactive

thearkman2009 · « **Reply #25 on:** April 13, 2009, 01:45:35 AM »

I thought about push reactive buttons, but I dont know how I would go about doing them.

pspupgrade · « **Reply #26 on:** April 13, 2009, 01:53:25 AM »

Nice work man!

Do I get official closest guess?

thearkman2009 · « **Reply #27 on:** April 13, 2009, 01:55:39 AM »

Any input would be great. I remember SOMEONE had done a push-reactive LED mod, but there was never a tutorial on how to do it. I dont even know where to start!

EliteGamer83 · « **Reply #28 on:** April 13, 2009, 09:12:38 AM »

Quote from: thearkman2009 on April 13, 2009, 01:55:39 AM

Any input would be great. I remember SOMEONE had done a push-reactive LED mod, but there was never a tutorial on how to do it. I dont even know where to start!

Does the ZIF connector(s) have power to them? I would think so... I woulds think you solder your LED + to the ZIF then to ground. then when a button is pressed it lights up.

thearkman2009 · « **Reply #29 on:** April 13, 2009, 10:54:54 AM »

That would sound like something that would function. Does the "ground" side of each button pad, literally go to a common ground for the system? If so, then I can just wire it up so the + is on the buttons + side, and the - would go to the common ground.

If that works, then that would make the buttons push reactive.

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #30 on:** April 13, 2009, 05:17:07 PM »

well you kno the how the razor works and the a2d its kinda like connecting the points of the leds to those points then attaching all the ground wires of the leds to the appropriate resistor its been done a on a 360 controller i have a pic of it some where i can show its the same idea as psp

thearkman2009 · « **Reply #31 on:** April 13, 2009, 05:21:22 PM »

that would be pretty helpful. I might just do that. As I have put the button lighting aside for right now, I am working on something really cool for the UMD door.

Basically it will be a clear jewel in the back, square, not round like the standard ring, and take up almost all of the back of the UMD door. I will then have 2 large speakers, the LM386 and resistors mounted to a large piece of breadboard, with LED lighting effects, logos, and a secret moving part! This will be AWSOME! I took my ideas from some of the other mods I have seen.

bustinthejustin · « **Reply #32 on:** April 13, 2009, 05:28:17 PM »

The PSP, if I remember correctly, have active-low buttons. Meaning they're connected to ground when they're pressed. So you should actually connect the positives of your leds to 5v and the negatives to the buttons.

thearkman2009 · « **Reply #33 on:** April 13, 2009, 05:35:39 PM »

I never really put much thought into how the power board worked. I know where the connections are, but not how the full system functions. Are there any good references I could take a look at?

GhoSt · « **Reply #34 on:** April 13, 2009, 06:34:45 PM »

props to you for getting this going, very nice method. I had my doupts but you proved yourself.

Jumbo · « **Reply #35 on:** April 13, 2009, 06:39:47 PM »

Alien_X made a little picture a while back showing a easy way to do push reactive. Its not to hard to wire, just pain in ass to fit it all...

And quite nice bro!!

thearkman2009 · « **Reply #36 on:** April 13, 2009, 06:58:42 PM »

Quote from: GhoSt_Death on April 13, 2009, 06:34:45 PM

props to you for getting this going, very nice method. I had my doupts but you proved yourself.

I have never set unrealistic goals for myself. If I say I am going to do something, I WILL get it done. One way or another! :-D Its great to have people that believe in me!

duffmanX · « **Reply #37 on:** April 14, 2009, 02:44:37 PM »

nice mod man cant wait till i can start modding

arkgirlgeek · « **Reply #38 on:** April 15, 2009, 02:32:12 PM »

cant wait to see when its all done what all you have done to it with LED's keep me posted should do another video so can see what all you have done

mastapsp · « **Reply #39 on:** April 15, 2009, 04:55:27 PM »

to everyone that said they are going to do this, post it when you do it, i don't think anyone here will try it because it doesn't look that good, all of you just like to spam

Jumbo · « **Reply #40 on:** April 15, 2009, 05:39:34 PM »

Quote from: mastapsp on April 15, 2009, 04:55:27 PM

to everyone that said they are going to do this, post it when you do it, i don't think anyone here will try it because it doesn't look that good, all of you just like to spam

Make sure to PM me when your leaving, because nobody wants your

like comments floating around at people that really did something good. All because your jealous that you cant even type a grammatical sentence. I'm not poking fun at ages here, but i'm going to guess to say that your a 10 year old kid whose teeth are still not proportionate to there head. So please, when you leave or do something better, be sure to get my attention.
(Also one last thing, im going to do this. Once again good job Arkman. [Arkman do you have MSN? Add me please :P])

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #41 on:** April 15, 2009, 08:25:56 PM »

wow off topic but first time i seen u hyped up jumbo

Quote from: bustinthejustin on April 13, 2009, 05:28:17 PM

The PSP, if I remember correctly, have active-low buttons. Meaning they're connected to ground when they're pressed. So you should actually connect the positives of your leds to 5v and the negatives to the buttons.

yea didnt know what voltage so i guess what bustin says until you test it out.

thearkman2009 · « **Reply #42 on:** April 15, 2009, 10:12:35 PM »

Quote from: bustinthejustin on April 13, 2009, 05:28:17 PM

The PSP, if I remember correctly, have active-low buttons. Meaning they're connected to ground when they're pressed. So you should actually connect the positives of your leds to 5v and the negatives to the buttons.

So I should connect it like this: 5v -> LED -> Button + trace

That way, when the button is pressed, the contact with ground is complete and the LED has a closed circuit and can light up.

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #43 on:** April 16, 2009, 10:58:09 AM »

no you have to connect all the positive ends of the leds a a resistor then the ground led point the the traces. i believe thats right

thearkman2009 · « **Reply #44 on:** November 22, 2011, 03:15:16 PM »

Quote from: Blazinkaos on April 12, 2009, 05:51:40 PM

sweet u should try doing push reactive

All these years later, and I finally have a response to that statement! lol Push reactive home row buttons wouldnt make any sense. In order to push the button, since they are so small, you wouldnt be able to see the light anyway. lol

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #45 on:** December 21, 2011, 03:08:13 PM »

wow man you finally came on here haha. Yes it would make sense its just a really hard things to accomplish.

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Author Topic: WORLDS FIRST PSP FULL HOME ROW LED MOD!!!!! (Read 18510 times)