Author Topic: Using tact switches as DPAD and ABXY HELP (Read 2324 times)

ftf101 · « **on:** September 16, 2009, 10:54:00 AM »

i saw a controller on xbox-scene.com that i wanted to try myself.I used my fiber glass tool that i got online to remove the black coating on the buttons on the board. I performed this on a broken board just to see if i was heading in the right direction. I posted pictures of the controller that i got the idea from and of my work so far. Any help/advice would be awsome!!

Modded Matt · « **Reply #1 on:** September 16, 2009, 02:04:18 PM »

what is your question? yes the conections are correct. that looks like some of RDC's work. however this is a very simplistic mod, only it will be very labor intensive.

if you want my advice, look at the button pads, you see the trace comming off the pads to a small hole? scratch and solder at or near this hole, and not right on the pad as you have done. that will ensure that the origional buttons still work, and everything will close properly

GhoSt · « **Reply #2 on:** September 16, 2009, 02:08:19 PM »

aslo watch the ammount of striped wire on both the tack switch and the pads, try keep the insulation so its almost right against the solder joint. Having extra wire can cause shorts.

Modded Matt · « **Reply #3 on:** September 16, 2009, 02:12:52 PM »

good point ghost!!!

ftf101 · « **Reply #4 on:** September 16, 2009, 02:37:58 PM »

my question is am i doing this right so far. For every button there is going to be 2 wires coming off of it, and on the tact switch there are 4 soldering points. does it matter where i connect the wire to the tact switch. sorry if im not being clear but im new to this.

laxboy · « **Reply #5 on:** September 16, 2009, 03:23:03 PM »

like mat said it is a basic mod however when laying the wires you will have to lightly scratch of the paint so be carful with this so you do not break the copper wire.

ftf101 · « **Reply #6 on:** September 16, 2009, 09:50:42 PM »

thanks for the advice. i use a abrasive fiberglass pencil which is designd to remove that type of stuff so i think it might be hard to damage the connection. Any advice on when solder right to the traces. i noticed there is no metal on the other side of hole. how will i solder this?

Modded Matt · « **Reply #7 on:** September 17, 2009, 08:47:05 AM »

the hole is the termination point for that trace, there will be no copper on the other side. you can solder to the hole if need be. as for the tacts yes it looks right. you want two close together, making a push to make contact switch, or normally open. the two legs that are accross from each other are push to break switches, or normally closed.

ftf101 · « **Reply #8 on:** September 17, 2009, 10:04:44 AM »

Quote from: modded matt on September 17, 2009, 08:47:05 AM

the hole is the termination point for that trace, there will be no copper on the other side. you can solder to the hole if need be. as for the tacts yes it looks right. you want two close together, making a push to make contact switch, or normally open. the two legs that are accross from each other are push to break switches, or normally closed.

so i am using tact switches with four legs...are these incorrect or do i just solder the wire to the two legs next to eachother. or should i get new swithes with just 2 legs only?

Modded Matt · « **Reply #9 on:** September 17, 2009, 10:18:53 AM »

all tact switches will have 4 legs, they are very versitile, use what ever you need. I snip off the other unused legs.

802Chives · « **Reply #10 on:** September 17, 2009, 10:19:53 AM »

use a continuity checker to check urself... either a standalone unit or most Digital Multi-Meters(DMM) have em

ftf101 · « **Reply #11 on:** September 17, 2009, 01:09:50 PM »

thanks for all the advice...ill keep you guys posted on how it goes..

scott · « **Reply #12 on:** September 17, 2009, 07:54:08 PM »

RDC answered all your questions on XS

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