Console Modding------ ( Here you can talk about your favorite Consoles ) > 360 Controllers / 360 Rapid Fire Controllers
Wired CL (Common Line) Controller Button/Analog Traces
RDC:
There's a new version of the Wired controller board now, not a Common Ground setup like the New Wireless CG/CG2 are, but it does use a 'Common Line' for all of the buttons (it has voltage on it) and most definitely is redesigned from every other point it could be and has a much lower component count, which means it's cheaper for them to make, but still costs you the same price, nice huh?
TOP
BOTTOM
Just about every button on the controller has a nice TP spot to hit, except LB and RB for whatever odd reason.
TP2 - Mic (Headset)
TP4 - Common Line for Buttons, 1.8v
TP5 - AN+, Analog Voltage, 1.6v (Switched)
TP6 - LED + D1, D2, D3, D4
TP9 - LT
TP10 - RT
TP11 - RSY
TP12 - RSX
TP13 - LSY
TP14 - LSX
TP24 - D3 LED -
TP25 - D1 LED -
TP26 - D4 LED -
TP27 - D2 LED -
TP29 - LSC
TP30 - RSC
TP31 - LSC
TP32 - DL
TP33 - DU
TP34 - DR
TP35 - DD
TP36 - Common Line for Buttons, 1.8v
TP37 - Common Line for Buttons, 1.8v
TP38 - Y
TP39 - A
TP40 - Start
TP41 - Back
TP42 - Guide
TP43 - B
TP44 - X
TP100 - Ground
TP101 - Ground
TP102 - Ground
Bruno:
Hello there!
I have succesfuly used this home-made rapidfire chip (see schematics and tutorial below) on the wireless Xbox 360 and Xbox One controllers:
http://cdn.instructables.com/FTR/2934/HV9I4RXK/FTR2934HV9I4RXK.LARGE.jpg
or
http://www.instructables.com/id/Xbox-360-Rapid-Fire-Modification/#step1
The chip work its magic between the buttons and the ground in the wired boards.
THIS IS MY QUESTION: is it possible to use this chip to rapid fire the "B" button in the "Wired CL" version???
There is one "trigger button" solder point on the chip, but is there a point to solder the "Common Line for Buttons, 1.8v"??
Tks!!
WHITE 4ND N3RDY:
I'm not sure if that would work on the buttons. I know on the 360 controllers the triggers are analog signals and the buttons are digital. Basically it will work in reverse order. When the tact is pressed on the trigger it will force pull and release. On the button I believe it will force it to pull when the tact isent pressed. Its basically works in opposite to the triggers.
I'm just hypothesizeing what may happen. I'm sure someone else can better Awnser your question. I still believe it will cause your buttons to think there being pressed when your not even touching the tact. Until the tac is presses then it will think its being released then pressed again.
RDC:
If you're trying to make the actual B button cRapid fire, that's more work that making an alternate Tact button do it, but either way it can be done.
The Wired CL controller does not use active Lo buttons like the Wireless CG, ground to activate. The buttons of the Wired CL are active Hi, 1.8v to activate.
A typical 555 timer (TTL) will not run off of a 1.8v power source, and you don't really want to be injecting a 5v pulse onto the 1.8v button line as it could damage the MCU.
The CMOS version of some 555 chips, LMC555 for example, will run down to 1.5v though and could be used. Not all CMOS versions are rated for that low of a supply voltage though, so check the DataSheet.
Now, if you're using an alternate Tact to do the button mashing, then just build the circuit and have the output run thru the Tact to the B button line. Tact not pressed the B works normally. Tact pressed that's your B, B, B, button.
If you want the actual B button on the controller to do the B, B, B when it is pressed, then you have to sever the COM trace of the B button and wire the LMC555 output to that half of the B button. Then when the actual B button is pressed you'll get the B, B, B. You can also use a SPDT switch there so the B button can be made to work normal or cRapid fire.
Bruno:
Tks AGAIN RDC!!! You are the best! It worked!
I used an alternate tact to duplicate the "B" and connected it through the new circuit to the "TP43 - B" on the circuit board and worked just fine!
Later on, I will post some pictures.
Tank you very, very much!
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