FLEX Rapidfire Opensource 12F683

[Modded Matt]

@ aspin, that is fine.


 hazer has expressed on numerous occasions that he will not revise this code for any reason. this is one of the best RF solutions I have ever used, I have a viking, and I still find myself using my flex controller. (but I have like 15 controllers lol)

please respect hazers wishes and stop buggin him to revise this code. accept what he has given us and appreciate it for what it is.  any more of these requests will result in disciplinary action

[siiNNiiSTer]

im bugging ?.... wow ... as far as i know this is the only time i asked about a code revision....and i simply ASKED. but ok....

[Modded Matt]

sorry, it was not directed completly at you, was just a general statment to all who want flex code changed. This is to respect hazers wishes.

I hope you all understand.

[siiNNiiSTer]

r&u matt i appologize

[siiNNiiSTer]

for anybody interested in having a burst fire mode that makes already auto weapons burst with FLEX set one of ur modes all the way down to 2.94 sps (p4 led flashes: 10 p3 led flashes: 10) u dont need to activate burst mode just leave it off. u can try activating the w@w duty cycle to slow it down more but i dont see much of a difference in testing. i especially love this "mode" for the p-90 works well with ump45 and the aug hbar, haven't test it to much on other guns. please post sum feed back let me know wut u all think of it, if u figure out an improvment or extra setting or sumthing....edited this post ...last night i wuz doin sum testing/tweakin and figured out that u dont need to activate burst just set the controller as slow as it'll fire and itll burst fire the full auto weapons. ill make a video 1 of these days to show how it fires.

[aspin]

cheers mate will have to give it a try especially as i use ump45 now without jitter shall i take pics of all my mods

[Total Loss]

Thanks Hazer for a awesome mod.

I have moded a couple matrix controllers and a cg2 with the flex code. I added the opto isolator 4n26 into my cg2. Everything is working great, except the p4 light on my matrix controller glows slightly when it's off.

What is the draw on the pic chip? Would there be a problem with adding a light mod?

[aspin]

hello total loss welcome to acidmods yea you can instead of using them 0603 on the board dont quote me on this but you can hooks the led pin according to hazer to 2 5mm led ask siinstar he no how to do it

[siiNNiiSTer]

yea instead of wiring them to the player leds i wired them to 2 5mm leds i installed in my dome button just take ur 2 leds and solder the negative sides together and ground it then take the wires coming off the chip that are suppossed to go to the player leds and solder them to each positive side....my pad is in the "show of your 360 rf controller thread" i have blue for mode 1 red for mode 2 and both light up to make purple for mode 3...(i dont consider flex a 4 mode rf i consider it a 3 mode because 1 of the modes is no rf).... n btw welcome to AM pm me if u got any probs with the light mod. i should prolly add that my pad is a CG u should prolly add the switching diodes if ur doin this on a matrix pad

[aspin]

thanks siin for baking me up

[FastBrad]

Does anyone know if Flex will work on a CL wired controller.
Thanks

[spurgurgle]

Does anyone know if Flex will work on a CL wired controller.
Thanks

probilly but u'll need to use the matrix hex i think....... cant be sure though..... best bet is giv it ago and see what happens....

[neural]

hi just a quick question when i installed this everything works fine but i wired my leds differently than the install diagram and wondered if it makes a difference that i havent noticed the wires for p3 and p4 go to the points on mine as circled in the pic
 the controller is a cg

[hyper999]

that will work fine.
the diagram you posted shows how you would wire it so that the flex leds are different colours to the normal player indication leds.

[neural]

thanks for the reply dont suppose anyone knows how to wire this up to the call of duty wired pad as i am planning on using topfire and this (although i prefer this) as 2 rapid fire mods in one controller using one of the switches on the back to swap between the 2 and the pre-installed tacts for the mode switch i have just enough space after lighting the sides underneath the pistol grips to squeeze them both in

[hyper999]

the code is designed for official pads but if you have a multimeter and could give us some pictures of the board you could probably do it

[neural]

cool i will crack the spare one open in a day or so and see if i can get some good pics of the front and back

[rulevoid]

Ok guys, I have not used my homemade JDM programmer in a year.  I have everything set up and ready to go except for the application i used to flash with.  I remember it being a really weird and off-the-wall name.  Maybe something with a horse or a pony?  I was never able to get winpic800 or the other commons to work, so does anyone know the weird named Microcontroller flashing application i'm talking about?  Thanks!

Edit:  Also, what type of switches are you guys mounting?  I see something that looks like a 3mm and a 6mm tactile switch, which size is best?  The following link is what im looking at now just cant figure out which ones to order.

http://tinyurl.com/2fks27b

[Modded Matt]

6-9 mm tact switch.

winpic should work with the homemade JDM programmer.

[Rodent]

PonyProg serial device programmer heres the link:http://www.lancos.com/prog.html

[rulevoid]

PonyProg serial device programmer heres the link:http://www.lancos.com/prog.html

That was the one I was thinking of, thanks for that.  But, it unfortunately was the wrong one in my mind.  It must have been something else, as ponyprog doesnt write pic 12f683.  Anyone have any other apps like this?  I got a new JDM programmer in the mail today and i cant get it to work with any application.  I am running windows 7 x86.  Any ideas?  I remember the app i used to use autodetected the device when starting and showed the device (JDM) in the upper right of the window in a drop down list.  That's all i remember

Edit:  Winpic is being ran in administrator mode and as windows 98 compatibility.  It sees that something is connected to the comm port but it says unknown, and therefore gets an error when writing when verifying. 

Here is the programmer i purchased.

 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170559709026&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

[corby7]

What position is this chip in, crawling or the numbers mean it is up for diagram purposes?

[jrfhoutx]

The pins should be facing up, the face of the chip (the side with numbers) should be facing the controller board

[Hazer]

No. The face of the chip is up (the numbers). The pins are down.

[jrfhoutx]

ok, look, in your diagram (on page 1) you show the chip face up (aka 'crawling'), which I assume is to clarify pin orientation and which wires go to which pin. in order to solder everything together initially I place the chip in that orientation so as not to confuse myself when soldering to the chip.

upon installation i suppose you really could install the chip either way, but personally I install it face down (aka 'dead bug') to prevent the pins from scratching the solder mask off the board and potentially causing a short and so that it doesn't stand off the board, the damn things already only barely fit inside at the recommended install location...

here is a pic of my own install (right before closing the controller) to clarify the position in which I install...


you can see that I install the chip face down, I feel it fits better this way and prevents the pins from scratching the solder mask off the board and potentially causing a short, and as far as I knew this was the recommended install position

[siiNNiiSTer]

...Anyone have any other apps like this?  I got a new JDM programmer in the mail today and i cant get it to work with any application...

i have one that came as a d/l link with my programmer idk if ill get yelled @ for posting the link here but u can pm me or contact me on aim and ill give u the link it has the d/l links for the software.

...the damn things already only barely fit inside at the recommended install location...

you can see that I install the chip face down, I feel it fits better this way and prevents the pins from scratching the solder mask off the board and potentially causing a short, and as far as I knew this was the recommended install position

i always snip a lil bit off the pin legs before soldering the wires, imo it gives a cleaner looking install and prolly gives u the clearance u need

[jrfhoutx]

I eventually did trim the pins on this one, though in the dead bug position clearance doesn't seem to be as much of an issue, my problems with the crawling install position was that the pins crushed down fine but at risk of breaking them, shorting eachother out, or scraping off solder mask on the board and shorting out that way. The chip will install either way to be honest, I just like the dead bug positioning for those reasons... (and it was the position used in spurg's tutorial I followed the first time I did it, so I just continued to do it that way...)

[Modded Matt]

there is actually more clearance above the rumble motor, under the mobo

[jrfhoutx]

Lol yeah that's where I was planning on relocating it to once I get my programmer... Going to rewire a bit and place it there.

[radddogg]

COD Zombie mod
3 moeds
1st mode both disabled
2nd mode right trigger 11 SPS CODWAW signal
3rd mode Left trigger 2.3 SPS standard signal, right trigger (your prefference).

This last one makes the controller auto-aim at multiple targets.

Sorry but the lowest sps I can get is 2.94 which is 10x10. How can I get 2.3 sps?