Author Topic: Ps3 rapid fire studying and understanding project open source (Read 127722 times)

802Chives · « **Reply #30 on:** August 25, 2010, 06:18:12 PM »

I have written a nice PS3 code in which was sold to BGR mods for their Intensafire PS3 Clip Mod (also did the xbox360 code) so i have alittle bit of experience when it comes to coding pics.

I have not seen your schematic but it sounds like you are trying to both trigger on and manipulate the Rcommon Line which is possible using comparators or ADC like Hazer pointed out. You should be able to continue your current code buy triggering on the R2 line with one pin and outputing on the Rcommon line with another pin.

If you would like to use comparators.. you could poll your comparator similar to how you have your code set up now on Rcommon, but the real beauty of Pics are their many varieties of interupts available to the user. I have never implemented the comparator interupt, but it basically consists of setting up an internal reference voltage for your comparator and using it just like a pin change interupts or a timer interupt.

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #31 on:** August 25, 2010, 06:37:51 PM »

Great to know that some one else knows about this!

the more people the better. well true. we will have to change to have one pin output and one input. thank you 802 chives. well then if you coded the Intensafire without using comparators. but did you use two different pins for input or output? because if its just one pin then there is still a possibility without comparators. but i think right now for a open source we need to keep it simple, but it also has to work tho :/
so in your opinion should we stick to the current code or to with comparators.

here is my basic setup.

ps3 rapidfire setup i know there is a 360 controller there. but its just for a friend. i just do ps3 sorry

802Chives · « **Reply #32 on:** August 25, 2010, 06:50:26 PM »

yesh i did it it without comparators... using two pins. Only real difference is I used an interupt on pin change, instead of polling the pin. Both methods are the same, one uses interupts one does not.

In my opinion comparators is a better code because it is less pins that need to be hooked up,,, but im also of the opinion that if there is a simple hardware fix like grabbing an extra pin then make your code simple. In other words I designed for a clip, so grabbing a pin was not a big deal, but if i made one to be hooked up by hand I would want to use comparators to cut down on install time. Now that is because I design commercially and am always looking at things in time effeciency coding vs manufacturing. For open source I say let em hook up another pin

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #33 on:** August 25, 2010, 07:23:56 PM »

lol let them hook them up. well i guess comparators might be the way to go. if there is a choice between the codes soft is easier to correct that a broken controller lol. i broke one doing different mods to it. so ppl not that experienced in these forums might also have a chance to break. so i would say interrupt. lol or if we use two pins? like 7&6? lol then we can just brige the conections and hook them up to Rcommon? lol u think that can work? but i still root for Comparators.

its up to hyper999 tho. because its his code. plus i dont know much.

802Chives · « **Reply #34 on:** August 25, 2010, 07:30:42 PM »

nope i wouldnt bridge any pins, just use one pin and disable the comparator imediately following the interupt. and reenable it with the interupt once you finished all your computing and after the signal train has finished.

Depending on the skill level of hyper999's coding he will decide what works for him, he may want to simply poll one pin connected R2 and control another pin connected to Rcommon

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #35 on:** August 25, 2010, 08:01:07 PM »

very true. comparator would be ideal but its up to him. plus now in days all ps3 controllers dosnt have R2 test point. they will only have Right common and Left common so it might not work for newer controllers. well its up to him

i will always be here to test it at least

hyper999 · « **Reply #36 on:** August 26, 2010, 04:32:59 AM »

Ok well ive got one last thing to try wire this just like the last led test however if it doesnot work try connecting the led between positive and pin 6 if it then stays lit then yes i will start using a comparator

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #37 on:** August 26, 2010, 06:59:12 AM »

2nd led test has bin unsuccessful. :/ i guess we will have to use comparators. so do you want to use two different pins or comparators? i guess comparators would be better tho. well good luck! i will b here to test the code! xD

hyper999 · « **Reply #38 on:** August 26, 2010, 03:10:48 PM »

ok i agree with chives seeing as this is opensource until there is a need for only soldering to rcommon i will use two pins as this should help reduce the amount of people flogging the code on ebay il post a ten sps code in an hour or so for you to test
**********************************************
ok done
pin7 common
pin6 r2

should rapid fire at 10sps when r1 is pressed

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #39 on:** August 26, 2010, 03:50:43 PM »

all right true

well i will open up the controller and connect R2 well i will soon. well i guess we should add a clause were people can use it for monetary gain. well that's the forum rules but not all people do follow the rules. its true. its great that your doing this

. well maybe in the future it would be possible making one using comparators. but for now this is great! but if you think about it, if so many people use ur code there will be mo market for them. it would be pointless for them (the ebay :censored:ers) lol. welll i will get back at you in 2-4 hours to see if it works

Edit: unfortuently i have a newer controller so there is no test point were i can get R2 so ima buy buy more old controllers. see if one has test points.

hyper999 · « **Reply #40 on:** August 26, 2010, 05:28:40 PM »

They all have a solder point for r2
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=648322

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #41 on:** August 26, 2010, 05:38:09 PM »

sorry that list is not updated. there is a new controller out. MSU_VX4 is the model after November 2009. so any controller bough after that will not have tp for any buttons except for Rcommon and Lcommon. sorry :/ well i have a broken sixaxis controller. ima see if i can fix it.

hyper999 · « **Reply #42 on:** August 26, 2010, 06:12:57 PM »

Last picture on the 3rd post

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #43 on:** August 26, 2010, 06:51:34 PM »

true but here not test point, there traces. but sure il give it a try

well i found a old dual shock controller. that one does ave the test points so i will do it right now

orko007 · « **Reply #44 on:** August 27, 2010, 10:04:14 AM »

Hey guys, I have been watching this thread for about a week and finally was able to borrow an O-scope from work to check things out myself. I am able to view the wave form on the R common just fine. But There is one thing I am a little confused about is, if the pattern repeats only every 10ms than wouldn't you only be able to have rapid fire speeds in increments of 10ms since that is the "refresh" rate of the controller?

Looking back at Hazers post

Quote

Some info you may not be looking at: That above waveform with the 6 dips in it happens every 10 milliseconds (or a frequency of 100 Hz). So the waveform repeats like this:

500 usec for R2
500 usec for R1
500 usec for triamngle
500 usec for circle
500 usec for X
500 usec for square
7 msec of nothing till the next repeat

If you try to hold the common high for anything longer than 500 microseconds during the first dip, you will mess up the other buttons as well. The trick is to use the very first dip for R2 as the start, and then manipulate the signal for each 500 microsecond period for each button. Once your done manipulating each button, have the PIC sit and wait for the next R2 start.

Since this waveform repeats 100 times per second, you set the frequency of your rapidfire by simply using a counter for every waveform. For example, your rapidfire would count down once every waveform for 50 times, and then begin forcing the output high only during the R2 signal for another 50 waveforms by reseting that counter. Once you have force the waveform high for 50 counts, reset the counter again and stop forcing the R2 signal high. After another 50 coutns go by, begin forcing the R2 signal high again. This would give you a repeating signal on the R2 line at a rate of 10 times per second.

If you were to count for 50 cycles you would have 10ms X 50 or 500ms then for it high for the same amount of time, or another 500ms you have 1s so it would actually be 1 shot per second instead of 10 shots per second like his example. But regardless most games require more accurate timing than 10ms differences. You would not be able to achieve a "on time" of say 25ms and "off time" of 25ms (20 sps). Or am I missing something?

With other types of PS3 rapid fire "that fire with a button" you can change the speeds in 1ms intervals and see that it makes a difference in the games. But I don't see how that is possible if the controller is only checking the button every 10ms??

Sorry for the lengthy post but This has been bothering me for a day now. Hopefully someone can point out my that I am in error about something and set me straight.

802Chives · « **Reply #45 on:** August 27, 2010, 11:34:07 AM »

interesting observation orko007, and you are correct PS3 Rapid fire only works in 10mSec increments... but at its fastest button press is still 50 press/sec, which is much faster then anygame allows.

The codes that operate on a 1mSec interupt cycle have more resolution then using a code like this, however that resolution makes no difference to the PS3 controller or an xbox controller for that matter.

the difference you can see with 1mSec increments on the faster speeds is due to aliasing with the sampleing signal. On a game like COD, the game has to see the trigger pulled for at least 3 cycles before calling it a pulled. therefore 3X10mSec = 30mSec so 60mSec Period makes for ~16.6 shots/second maximum readable trigger speed. So what you may be noticing is at speeds above 16s/sec you will see a difference between 1mSec changes speed because you are operating faster then the controller can see thus creating an aliasing effect between the signal and the sample.

The larger resolution is not a problem because if you make your trigger pull and release 3 cycles long for your fastest speed, then 16.6s/sec is the max speed, the next available speeds go like this: 14.3s/sec, 12.5s/sec, 11.1s/sec, 10s/sec, 9s/sec, 8.3s/sec, 7.7s/sec, 7.1s/sec, ect. So you are not really losing anything as far as available speeds.

this is the the most precise method of timing of Rapid Fire for PS3, and if we could sync up to the sample rate on xbox then it would make for a more precise code there too.

hyper999 · « **Reply #46 on:** August 27, 2010, 04:13:32 PM »

how long until you will have tested the code gerald? and as orko has pointed out it will actualy only fire at 1sps but i will speed this up later

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #47 on:** August 27, 2010, 05:10:53 PM »

well i finished soodering. i had to do it 2 times because the testpoint were unclear. unfortunately no go :/ ima try to recheck my points this model is the v3.5x but so far its still not working just shoots regular. but i will continue testing to see if i manage to get it working.

Edit: ok. so i posted the pictures of this new board im testing. if anyone could tell me if im wrong? because the website tells me that R1 is in tp35 but its not numbered

so if anyone know better then me pliz help. if not the code isnt working. well chives do you think the code is correct?

hyper999 · « **Reply #48 on:** August 27, 2010, 05:30:24 PM »

what voltage arer the pot points?

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #49 on:** August 27, 2010, 05:39:01 PM »

3.3v but thats how you always have to wire it. i tested a led on it and it works to power is ok. just need the dam R2 test point! lol bcuz its not the clearest one tho lol. i may just probe around and see if it rapid fires. lol

hyper999 · « **Reply #50 on:** August 27, 2010, 05:57:15 PM »

Kk cool was only asking the voltage cos should i move on to using the comparator i need toknow the input voltage and i will double check the code again in the morning

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #51 on:** August 27, 2010, 06:12:20 PM »

ok sorry. well i realy tried but it dint work :/ comparator usually is easier to solder. and when you get your cod title you will be able to install this easy too

but im still trying this code.

Edit: the voltage of my pot personaly is 2.6v but in all the places i searched it mentioned it was 3.0-3.3 volts.

Modded Matt · « **Reply #52 on:** August 27, 2010, 09:14:29 PM »

geraldrubalcava, you are using the wrong tp points for R1. see attached photo.

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #53 on:** August 27, 2010, 09:50:41 PM »

modded matt. i had to use the R2 because we had to get the r2 signal to get the initial dip in signal and timing it correctly. and i originally soldered it to that point. and it dint work :/ i hoped it did but unfortunately it dint :/ thanks for your input tho

and great picture

802Chives · « **Reply #54 on:** August 28, 2010, 06:07:05 AM »

The R2 line will work as a trigger point for your micro.... Its an 802Chives %100 garuntee cuz i have dont it before.

I think that probably if Hyper had an Osciolloscope to help with testing it would be going a lot smoother for you guys... I am impressed you guys are able to work so well with one coder and one tester with no overlap. Unfortanately it will only get you so far... Hyper needs to verify his code for himself because he will be able to identify his errors easier, especially if he had a scope.

Edit: also you guys need to step back and take smaller steps with your code. Start of by making a program that lights up an LED when you press a button. Then take the button input and put it on the R2 line... now you probably wont see the LED light up visually, but you should be able to see it on a scope. Once you have proven the Pic can see R2, then make a code that just inhibits the use of any of the 6 buttons. Then move on to rapidfire, then to modes, then to edit/eeprom, ect to as far as ur taking it.

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #55 on:** August 28, 2010, 08:47:43 AM »

chives your very true!

well i over looked modder matts pic and the R2 was correct but R common was one tp off lol so ima correct that and check again. well true he will have to get his own testing done. but meanwhile he might be trying to start of in the right detection. but its true. we should of start of by simple led's and other. well now if he did the code for comparators, he said he was ganna check the comparator code today in the morning. but im still testing the previous code. so if it works i will give you the info.

i guess the way it works is that he writes the code i check it and test it and i give him feedback. then when people add there info like chives and hazer then this becomes possible.

Edit: the previous code still did not work :/

hyper999 · « **Reply #56 on:** August 28, 2010, 02:31:14 PM »

well im baffled as to why its not working but gerald have you tried any of the other codes with the different right common tp spot?

on a side note if we dont have any breakthroughs soon i will start doing some hardware testing myself to help speed the project up. also i agree an oscope would be useful so just wondering if any of you have built your own becuase i was just looking at opensource ones but am not sure if any of them are any good?

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #57 on:** August 28, 2010, 04:57:51 PM »

Edit:the last thing to try is comparators. if that works then maybe that was my problem. if it dosnt them break out the oscilloscope. its up to you what you wanna do. if you wanna try to code one more time for comparators or do you want to start building your oscilloscope to test your previeus codes.

well i had a rapidfire chip from ebay along time ago in this controller so im sure it works. well ima open up a different controller and check on those. i agree is would be faster if you can also debug the code. that would be optimal. so if you get this working people should give in there info and see how well it works.

good question about an oscilloscope.

1:have you ever programed avr chips? do you have a composite input source? well heck this one out http://www.nbb.cornell.edu/neurobio/land/PROJECTS/VideoScope/

2: http://www.serasidis.gr/circuits/AVR_oscilloscope/avr_oscilloscope.htm

3:http://yveslebrac.blogspot.com/2008/10/cheapest-dual-trace-scope-in-galaxy.html

4:http://accrochages.drone.ws/en/node/90

all you can make yourself its cheaper than a real oscilloscope. so im not sure if these would work for the speed of the controller but all should be ok

sorry i cant always be here tho. dam calculus lol. and college drains money so i cant buy a "real oscilloscope" ether lol.

hyper999 · « **Reply #58 on:** August 28, 2010, 05:30:17 PM »

i only have pickit 2 so cannot program avr chips but what scope have you got? also i am considering buying this one http://www.virtualvillage.co.uk/2-channel-5v-pc-usb-digital-storage-oscilloscope-new-001482-009.html?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shcomp because im just about to start at sixthform and am poor :'( lol

orko007 · « **Reply #59 on:** August 28, 2010, 06:01:31 PM »

OK I'm going to open up to you guys a little but because 802Chives is being helpful to you but not helpful enough. Possibly this is because he has contractual obligations to BGRmods if he indeed wrote their firmware.

I am the owner of Console Customs www.consolecustoms.com , I've been doing Xbox 360 mods and PS3 mods for over 3 years. Feel free to send an email from the website if you want to verify. Everything I do has been written from scratch, i've actually never even looked at the open source code here.

Anyway I have been doing R1 mods for a long time already but doing it by cutting the R1 trace and using a gate controlled by a PIC to open/close the cut trace. But this allows for little control over what is going on. I've been looking for other methods for a long time and come across someone in the UK a while back doing it through only the R common TP. I've made little progress on my own mainly because I did not have an O-scope. But after seeing this post with the image from Hazer I tried harder to get a Scope and finally was able to borrow one.

After having a O-scope and being able to see what is really going on with some info from this thread I have a working rapid fire on ALL the buttons connecting only to R common and will soon have it for the L1 and L2 as well. This only took me about a day of work. It is far from a complete mod but I have the basics in place.

Since I obviously sell mods retail (which is my main source of income) I'm not going to post and source or hex but I will get you going in the right direction, at least based on how I got it working.

First off you don't need to connect to R2 at all.

I am doing everything based off analog reads on R Common.

To start I looked for a voltage drop from VDD (2.8V) which should tell you when the sequence starts. Then delay for around 450us to jump over the R2 dip, pull the pin high for 500us, then back to tri-state for 3ms(wait for other button dips to pass) and start the analog read again.
Watching on the scope i could see the change in the R1 portion of the sequence being high all the time. You may need to change the amount you are delaying based on the sample time of your analog read. Once you are completely blocking out the R1 dip you can advance.
After that I just put it into a loop where it would pull R1 high for 3 cycles then leave it alone for 3 cycles. Bam, Rapid fire on R1. Add in a button so the whole thing can be turned on or off and you are all set for R1.

I have already taken it well beyond that point adding in the ability to have rapid fire on all the buttons and enable/disable the rapid fire for each button. But these are things you should be able to figure out as well based on what I explained above and taking analog reads at different times.

one thing I will Stress that 802Chives has already said is you will not get very far trying to do this without a programmer, a ps3 controller and a O-scope in the same room. changes by as little as 50us will affect the outcome of the rapid fire working or not working.

My next task will be working on L2 and L2, Which by the way the L common TP goes in this sequence (Dpad-up, Dpad-Right, Dpad-Down, Dpad-Left, L2, L1). After that I will be adding in modes and speeds like all our other mods and then working on a burst fire.

I hope that you find this useful in getting your mod working and understand why I will not be posting any code here.

p.s. this was done on a 12F683

Enjoy,
Chris

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Author Topic: Ps3 rapid fire studying and understanding project open source (Read 127722 times)