Author Topic: Ps3 rapid fire studying and understanding project open source (Read 122467 times)

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #90 on:** August 31, 2010, 01:16:37 PM »

well good news! RDC code works! it dissabled R1.
First ps3 rapidfire success

and true what chives said, RDC is a great coder. Ive seen some of his work and amazing. you shouldn't dough yourself. like you i like doing Hardware. ive done bluetooth military headsets for ps3 and phone. hase mods hardware and hardware cracking. But i can do software with networks (penetration vulnerabilities and others.) so like me i can do both pritty well but you sir can do the middle basic. that re able to take hardware and software to create different things. so i envy your skills

. but i disagree that were wasting time and money. well money maybe, but a o-scope is a coders favorite buddy lol. so if he dosnt use it for this project he can use it in the future

as for time the most i spend testing and typing is max 2 hours (school takes up too much time). so this is for people who dont know much but can program there own chips. but who who ever comes out with a successful open source ps3 rapidfire should protected from the ebay :censored:ers. lol

well sorry for this question but, can you put out the code you got for the disable R2 button? i mean the assembly code lol sorry if you mind me asking. and if it would be possible for hyper to work on your code?

thank for all your input. this has bin a great community. over at xbox seance are not as friendly sometimes lol. woo somthing finaly working! im still exited lol

hyper999 · « **Reply #91 on:** August 31, 2010, 01:46:03 PM »

Rdc's source is of no use to me as he wrote it in basic but he has explained how he did it however he used adc to do it where as i would like to stick with comparators so we will just have to wait for my scope to arrive from hong kong then i will get the code done in no time

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #92 on:** August 31, 2010, 02:16:13 PM »

yes its understandable. well yee i can wait till you get your oscilloscope. and i will always be here to test it out

hum well then RDC you dont look like you want to pursue making one because its pointless well i understand. you seem to have the right idea. and you were able gi give us a working same of it. thank you. it would be awesome if in yous spare time you could develop this just a little?

just asking. sorry well thank you so much u are a awesome coder.

Thank you too hyper999 for your time. And hopefully you will get you scope to complete a fully working ps3 R/F on R1 thank you too man!

hyper999 · « **Reply #93 on:** August 31, 2010, 04:20:41 PM »

progress: just wired up my test controller

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #94 on:** August 31, 2010, 04:26:41 PM »

good

lol. if you have any code that you are going to test in your controller feel free to post it here so i can test it here. lol you got the chips and everything (except scope)? lol

hyper999 · « **Reply #95 on:** August 31, 2010, 05:46:36 PM »

More progress lol : scope ordered will probs be here in like 7 days

Tommorow i will build a dev board to plug into my controller

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #96 on:** August 31, 2010, 06:16:30 PM »

all right lol. thats good i suggest to keep open the controller or have a way to run out the cables though a hole or something. lol. and if you manage to get this working then led will come in the future so u might want to have that prepared. that if you want lol also to test the controller out with different games because like earlier, someone said in cod games it takes 3 cycles for the game to register a push on the button. so different games are critical lol

and if you want i can try out any code you want on cod6

RDC · « **Reply #97 on:** August 31, 2010, 06:31:26 PM »

@ 802Chives - Thanks for the encouragement. I used GCB to compile it, and I write it all out in Notepad. My first real messing with coding was doing the PS3 Slot Loader, and that was just a bunch of loops waiting for a switch to change state so the code could move on, horrible, lol, but it works pretty good. I can barely half understand Assembly, but to look at it gives me a headache, where in Basic I'm to the point now that I can kinda 'see' what it's doing, though I've still only scratched the surface of what all I can probably do with the 12F683 chip and Basic.

@ hyper999 - Looking forward to seeing how your scope works out and the Comparator method goes from both you and orko007.

@ geraldrublcave - I'm a Head Mod over at XS, and friendly can only extend so far in the face of what is sometimes nothing but sheer stupidity, not saying that what you've posted over there is, if anything even, but you'll find all kinds online, and if you ask a question in an open forum expect to get all manner of answers, comments and such, because there are all types online and all of them believe they know it all regardless of the fact. So long as people keep it civil and/or constructive that's fine with me, but I personally don't tolerate abuse in threads over there, mine or other members, so if you're catching grief for asking a question over there PM me about it.

I've attached another .hex, and if you would, please try it out and see how it acts, same wiring as before. I honestly don't have any PS3 games at all that could even use R/F, and only a couple of Demos that can't really make use of it either, so I'm going to have to haul the PS3 over to a friends and d/l a few or get one before I can really go any further with this, so this one is just a shot from the hip, so to speak.

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #98 on:** August 31, 2010, 07:15:44 PM »

awsome well i will soon test this out. welll most games are ok at a certain speed. As mentioned above for cod games have to have 3 cycles in order trigger a push. but i will give you code a try

if it pulls fast enough it might register. but some games like cod5 had patches witch limit to 11.5 sps. so you do your code in basic? well i guess i should start learning it. and you say your code can be transferred to assembly? great! dam! i only know objective-c. well better crack the books open and begin learing lol.

well i get you its true

sometimes cooperative people reply and sometimes others do. well your right and have wize words

thank you for those words of encouragement! lol and i understand maybe i asked a obvious question for them. well thank you again, and i will get back to you in a bit. lol

Hazer · « **Reply #99 on:** August 31, 2010, 07:58:43 PM »

Quote

but it will be the PC GUI for making a custom controller and a slick interface that will prevail in the end.

I'm workin on it, I'm workin on it, sheesh! Seriously though, I took the USB sample code and encoded it. I rebuilt the GUI interface as well to Make encoded hex files from source hex files. I can use a modified version of the original downloader to download those encoded hex files. I got all that working first.

I was then able to modify the USB sample interface and transfer bytes back and forth to/from the EEPROM. I could pretty that up by changing some text and have the USB version of what I did with the 12F683 on the X360 controller.

The last part I was working on was converting all that USB source code over to assembly. I dont have a full C18 licence, and I dont like arbitrary use of the memory registers. I like assembly for what it is: complete control over the entire chip. Once I reverse the entire source back to assembly, I can change the code to maximize the memory usage for MY code, and just trigger the USB interface only when purposely needed. In order to make full use of teh USB interface, I will need enough EEPROM/Program memory to be able to hold the data for at least 8 macros. This will not be an easy fit. I was half done converting when life caught up, and I do not see continuing any time soon.

But back on topic: Even though the easy way is to use R2 for your trigger, you should still keep trying to get the comparator to work. I say this because it will allow you the ability to manipulate R2 in the future. I know the short-term goal is to get R1 to RF, but getting the comparator to work not only gives the 'one-wire' solution, but you will be able to RF or macro the R2 line as well.

Oh, another thing about the frequencies: Since we know now that the 100 Hz pulse train is the sampling of the controller, I dont want you guys to think that RF rates are limited to the same on and off times. You can force a release after 20 pulse-trains, and then dwell for 18 pulse-trains. This would change the frequency just enough to possibly have even more resolution than just a 50% duty cycle.

802Chives · « **Reply #100 on:** August 31, 2010, 08:20:05 PM »

Quote from: Hazer on August 31, 2010, 07:58:43 PM

But back on topic: Even though the easy way is to use R2 for your trigger, you should still keep trying to get the comparator to work. I say this because it will allow you the ability to manipulate R2 in the future. I know the short-term goal is to get R1 to RF, but getting the comparator to work not only gives the 'one-wire' solution, but you will be able to RF or macro the R2 line as well.

Using Either IOC or EXT INT you can still manipulate R2 using a 2 pin method... the code I wrote using IOC has rapidfire on R1,R2, and X.

Reguardless we all agree the comparator one pin solution is the best way to go.

Hazer: u truely are a madman for converting the USB source to assembly, I love assembly like the next guy, but those are lengths I am not sure I could go to

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #101 on:** August 31, 2010, 08:53:23 PM »

lol a agree with chives lol converting into asembly line by like is crazy. but patience is a gift for some. lol

Hey RDC! successes! again your code worked!

not as fast as i seen other R/F/ but i believe its this speed because cod has a rule 3cyles= 1push. well hope you continue with the rapid fire. wow great work! have you made a 360 into a pa3 case? just me wondering. lol
RDC test 2

well true. comparators would work and that would be what in the futrure the ps3 Rf will be heading at. but would this interrupt having two in different pins? i mean in the future if we have dual trigger. or would ADC be the way to go if there will be dual trigger( i know im getting to ahead but just want to know if its future proof) lol

orko007 · « **Reply #102 on:** September 01, 2010, 06:54:49 AM »

Quote from: geraldrubalcava on August 31, 2010, 06:16:30 PM

all right lol. thats good i suggest to keep open the controller or have a way to run out the cables though a hole or something. lol. and if you manage to get this working then led will come in the future so u might want to have that prepared. that if you want lol also to test the controller out with different games because like earlier, someone said in cod games it takes 3 cycles for the game to register a push on the button. so different games are critical lol

I haven't played around with code anymore yet but after reading your post I wanted to show how I setup my controller to make my life alot easier.(see attached pictures)
You can get everything you need for a setup like this at radioshack for under $10.00. The board is $1.99 and I cut it in half to maximize use, IC socket 99 cents, 30ga Kynar wire 2.99, the buttons i get somewhere else but you can get similar buttons at radio shack for around $1.99. For this setup I also added in some header pins to make connecting to the scope easier. I have some laying around from old original xbox modding days. If you don't have any you could get creative by either pulling something out of a dead piece of electronics or cutting a small section off a resistor to make a nice post.

For the cost and a little bit of work it makes testing a whole lot easier than sitting with an open controller. Especially when you flip it over and the R1/L1 buttons fall out

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #103 on:** September 01, 2010, 10:34:08 AM »

yes actuality i had what your testing. lol except the hole was at the bottom of the controller lol. and i had a 8 pin socket. but i believe it would be a good idea how you have it. well u just suggested to keep it open because he may not not have the materials or the setup ready. but definitely go how he suggested. except i would keep the points like common R and other connections like a different part of the board to make it easier to solder and or connect to oscilloscope. just a suggestion tho. lol also connect to Left ground if you wish in the future to have dual trigger mod. lol

Edit: i saw the pics again and yes do it like that! lol good job dude! actually im a make my controller like yours. hope you dont mind lol.

hyper999 · « **Reply #104 on:** September 01, 2010, 02:31:04 PM »

what kind of modder do you guys take me for!?!? lol ive put header sockets on my controller wired to r and l common power and ground with extra sockets should i want more connections to leds and such then i am in the process of soldering up a protoboard to connect to the controller with an ic socket a tact switch and an icsp header for my pic kit 2

@chives how can the buttons be read digitally if they are at 1.3v when pressed?

802Chives · « **Reply #105 on:** September 01, 2010, 04:27:25 PM »

what is 1.3V when pressed?

anything below 0.8V is a digital low with schmit trigger. All the buttons (with exception of start, select, ps, ect) go to ground when pressed. I have seen it work a couple of places: when using 3.0V on a 360 controller I was digitally able to determine when the trigger is pressed or not, and the triggers on a 360 are on a 1.7V line. Also on the PS3 I was able to read Lcommon buttons with BTFSS and BTFSC commands in the middle of each finger in the waveform digitally. The best way is to try those things and see what works, you can only work on a simulator and with specs for so long before you have to try the hardware.

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #106 on:** September 01, 2010, 07:53:51 PM »

hehe sorry dude. no offense with the wiring or anything. lol well ye hope to see progress. both RDC code and hyper code will be awesome. but one question hyper, what program do you use for assembly? if its mp labs there is a build in function that turns a hex into assembly. but sure if its useful. but i just want to thow it out there.

well hopefully you will get your code soon! cant wait to begin testing

.

RDC · « **Reply #107 on:** September 01, 2010, 09:20:00 PM »

@ 802Chives - The Triggers/Sticks on the 360 controllers are on a 1.5v or 1.6v line, depending on the controller version.

@ geraldrubalcava - As soon as I get a dead (and cheap) 80gb PS3 to use I'll get back into the PS3 Slot Loader project, would really like to finish it up one day.

I'm not going for any speed records or the bells and whistles like multiple modes and such, that's something everyone else will do, just a simple R1 R/F is all I'm after as I really don't want to invest a lot of time into something I don't go in for, which I technically have already getting to this point, but that was mainly to get it to work in the first place, which was all I was kinda after and as soon as I was able to disable R1 that was about it for me. For now it's just something to tinker with off and on and learn how to do different things, so any updates from me will probably be few and far between, everyone else will probably be done with others that do a ton more than this before I get anything changed.

Attached is the latest one for you to check out. It's not going to really get any faster than this until I learn some more coding so I can control better when R1 is masked, or allowed to fire, depending on how you look at it, but it can be turned on and off now with an external button and light up an LED to show it's on or off if you want. Any N.O. momentary type button/switch can be used, like a Tact switch, which I personally don't like and I'll probably code something different up later on so it uses existing buttons or a combination thereof to turn it on/off, but for now it's a way to turn it on/off so it can be used.

' PINOUT

'1 - Vdd
'2 - LED Cathode (can use LED2, 3 or 4 on the controller or any alternate LED you like)
'3 - COM2
'4 -
'5 - Tact Switch (other side of button/switch goes to GND)
'6 -
'7 -
'8 - Vss

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #108 on:** September 01, 2010, 10:12:48 PM »

well i will give your code a try

but it will for sure work. your a excellent coder.

ohh well just asking. because i had a broken ps3 fat that i sold the power supply and blueray drive to get a ps3 slim (my old ps3 gave me a ylod

) so i have a ps3 shell you could use. cosmetically it aint a++ but i guess it might help you for prototyping. and i also have a old apple slot loading drive. i mention this because ive seen over at xbox scene that did a 360 with slot loading. lol so if you want i can ship it to you in a medium flat rate box.

Ohh and theres one more thing lol (all apple status). for the fat style ps3's the power and eject button are touch sensitive. but lucky i found out somewhere if i recall it was "qt115" this 8 pin chip allows you to make a touch event into a push button event. so just little help if your gonna built it.

well enough of that. lol i will get back to you tomorrow about your code

and one question. is the tact switch code like ( if you press for 2 sec it turn off/on? or just a quick press? thank you again man!

RDC · « **Reply #109 on:** September 02, 2010, 01:45:17 AM »

I hope it 'for sure' works, since it did here already, but that's no guarantee at all.

Just give the button a quick press to turn it on/off is all. I need to clean that bit of code up as well because if you hold the button down when it's off it will turn the R/F on/off real quick, but if it's on and you hold it then it just turns off until you let go, so it's almost how it needs to be, but just give it a quick press to turn on/off and it'll work like it's supposed to for now. Also it's not TriStated, so if you use it on an LED in the controller that LED will not work normally, as in when you power on the controller and all 4 blink a few times if you're wired up to one of those that one isn't going to light up for that event, but it's nothing that will cause any issue and will be sorted later as well.

I already have a few QT110 sitting around that will do the button work, touch to active Lo, and have had them for long before starting on the PS3 Slot Loader project, but thanks just the same.

Post Merge: September 02, 2010, 07:49:39 AM

Hey all, the controllers 100Hz signal isn't when running off just the batteries (looks more like 89.3Hz) at least on 3 different MSU PP 4.05 version controllers I have here. I can't say for sure yet on the later ones until I get another one to tear up and test out, but can anyone else with a PS3, O-scope and a later version controller confirm/test this also?

I noticed this as the RoF changed on me when I unplugged the controller from the PS3 and it straight up screwed the timing of other things I was trying out, so using a set time to create the R/F masking isn't a good method at all and will cause issues if the controller is ever used both ways. I'm sure this isn't going to affect anyone's code as you guys will probably be using timers and counting pulses, but it's put a kink in the way I have this setup right now as I'm just waiting them out for set times.

802Chives · « **Reply #110 on:** September 02, 2010, 12:00:42 PM »

RDC I will take a look at the controller i have here... It sounds like your saying the speed of the signal changes when plugged into usb and not? I know the controller i am using isn't exactly 100hz because it has an 11.2mSec period rather then 10mSec, but i never noticed any speed changing. I will take a look and post here.

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #111 on:** September 02, 2010, 12:50:39 PM »

ohh wow. ive had actualy noticed the changing speed. and i think you can see it on the vid i posted. but i will do more testing. and im soldering up the test right now.

Edit: IMPOrant, lol how do you add a post to the news bulletin in these forums? because i got big news of the ps3. some people have made an open source ps3 jailbreak usb device and with a easly to buy usb teensy development board (similar to arduino). it has piracy disabled but it is used for homebrew! anyone now how to post it up in the news? here is the link to the original page http://github.com/psgroove/psgroove/blob/master/README.md

sorry if its off topic

RDC · « **Reply #112 on:** September 02, 2010, 07:12:00 PM »

Quote from: 802Chives on September 02, 2010, 12:00:42 PM

RDC I will take a look at the controller i have here... It sounds like your saying the speed of the signal changes when plugged into usb and not? I know the controller i am using isn't exactly 100hz because it has an 11.2mSec period rather then 10mSec, but i never noticed any speed changing. I will take a look and post here.

Thanks, and correct. Plug your controller up to the PS3 and I imagine it'll change to 100Hz and 10ms. That 11.2ms period you have works out to right around 89.3Hz also.

Here are O-scope shots of both USB and Battery powered measuring the COM2 line at the same 2ms/DIV setting.

USB Powered @ 2ms/DIV

BATTERY Powered @ 2ms/DIV

It's the time between the 3ms of 'button signal' that's actually changing, not the 500us per button speed, that stays the same. It's the duration from the Rising Edge of /\ to the Falling Edge of R2 that's slightly different, so it's 'Hi' for a shade longer (roughly 1.2ms

) in between the button presses on Battery as opposed to USB powered.

802Chives · « **Reply #113 on:** September 02, 2010, 08:07:33 PM »

wierd.. mine shows that 11.2mSec period either way. I hooked the controller up to my computer usb, but I can imagine how being hooked up to a PS3 makes a difference if it has something to do with charging. I will post pics when i get a flash drive from my girlfriend. I will also look at what version my controller is.

RDC · « **Reply #114 on:** September 02, 2010, 08:56:51 PM »

Plugging it into the PC doesn't change it here either, just the PS3.

802Chives · « **Reply #115 on:** September 03, 2010, 10:14:39 AM »

wow... I just confirmed it and that is the oddest thing I have seen yet. cant even think of why that happens...

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #116 on:** September 03, 2010, 11:41:25 AM »

the reason might be that in order to sent the signal though the usb, the controller has to chage the frequency to match that of the system. if you guys can try and hook up two controllers to the system. this might be because the system might want to sync all controllers up. im not sure were ive heard this but it was at a controller tear down.

Post Merge: September 03, 2010, 11:48:26 AM

all right finished testing the led off/on button for RDC rapid fire and it works. the only thing is that it shoots 1 per second. but idk if you coded it like that.

RDC · « **Reply #117 on:** September 03, 2010, 05:58:39 PM »

Quote from: 802Chives on September 03, 2010, 10:14:39 AM

wow... I just confirmed it and that is the oddest thing I have seen yet. cant even think of why that happens...

Just more pointless Sony voodoo.

@ geraldrubalcava - Yeah that one is messed up because of the USB/Battery timing issues, it should work fine on USB. Attached another one that should work on both USB or Battery power roughly the same now.

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #118 on:** September 03, 2010, 11:31:38 PM »

Great! well i will test out your code tomorrow. sorry for the delay. Ive bin getting all glittery about the psgroove. Hum all right.i would like too see if hyper has made any improvements. But he might be waiting for his scope still.

So i will give your code a try without usb and with usb connected. we will see how it goes

RDC · « **Reply #119 on:** September 04, 2010, 02:41:29 AM »

Here are a couple more to test out if you have a chance. Also if you would, please let me know which is faster and in what game. I'm only using the Demos for CoD WaW and MW2 and testing with only single shot weapons. Thanks.

News:

Author Topic: Ps3 rapid fire studying and understanding project open source (Read 122467 times)