Custom m16 sharpshooter for the move w recoil.

[1TONpete]

M16 m203 custom "sharpshooter" for the PS3 move.
ft. realistic recoil , fire rate switch w RGB led for 3 fire rates , red dot sight , cascading led's across clear buttons and trigger,nav and move controller docs.   
Instead of having to scroll down to see my latest beast I posted a finished product picture here. will update soon.
scroll to the bottom to see build pics.

Here is the latest and almost final version of the m16 sharpshooter. I got a lil body work left and paint. I also have to drill out the screw hole for the clear fire rate switch.

The mod's Details
The recoil , lights sound and power for the red dot sight are all separate from the move/sharpshooter.(except the led mod to the fire rate switch that's hooked to the sharpshooter.) The tact switch that triggers the recoil and such is right behind the trigger. I had to align it just right so that both tact from the sharpshooter and the move both got triggered at the same time.

The LED mod details :

Leds are hooked to a flasher with 3 led spots. This board was in the toy when I got it, I knew I would use it, but saved it for last until my clear triggers where done. flashing progression goes as fallows. RED=1 on trigger. Blue =2 on []. Green=3 on triangle. hold down trigger it flashes like this
1 , 2 , 3 , 1 , 2 , 3 for about 4 secs. then changes to all flashing for about 3 secs. The it waves back and forth in a double flash , 1 , 1 , 2 ,  2 , 3,  3 , 2, 2, 1, 1 for about 4 secs. then cycle repeats. If you pull up at any time the cycle starts over.
This timing when check with SOCOM 4 on assault rifles (ACR , m16 , etc)  the all flash starts just before reload and the scan back and forth starts about when your finished reloading. On the M60 the timing is a lil different because of the huge clip. but one feature about socom is when you shoot in burst your shots don't stray as much , with the m60 the stray gets bad after you have been holding down the trigger for a while. Well this is shown by your aiming circle getting huge. Well this happens about the same time as the all flashing and hits its worst point when the scan back and forth happens.
Also there is a constant blue led that tells me that the recoil and such is switched on.
   Next is the red dot sight.




This piece was given to me by my neighbor. It was a daisy red dot bb gun sight. well the batteries that came with it didn't last long so I hard wired it to the recoil constant 4V. which improved the lower brightness setting brightness to be acceptable and the high setting to be awesome. Originally the battery that was in it was a 3v. All this device is , is a lens with a red light pointed at it. The lens is lil bit 2way mirror-ish. It also has black cross hairs that are barely visible. It is not very handy for game play aiming but for calibration it helps a lot. Plus it just looks bad ass. There is a switch to turn on/off recoil/lights/sound and sights. The sights have its own switch also. That controls brightness and on/off.
 The buttons and trigger:
these are custom molded PS3 buttons that have been customized to suit there application. The trigger is a one off of the original sharpshooter trigger. I added a skull and a spot for an led(which I ended up grinding off as it interfered with normal operation.The skull stayed. All are back lit by they'r own LED's.



I will do a demo video when I got a camera man/girl


]
a quick clip of the internals in action.

Yeah! I finally got a sharpshooter
.
Im looking for info on the move controllers interface. There is a way to tap into the digital buttons some how. Sony uses this interface for the new sharpshooter gun. It has a digital trigger. I would like to do the same , so i can use a digital trigger for a home made move gun from an electric toy. I know there are some people out  there working on implementing open source pc stuff w the move. But I just want to know how to tell the move remote to fire R1.
It appears the "sharpshooter" uses the "digital move interface" not mini usb to interface rumble/ trigger functions attached to the move controller. So how do I get inside that interface?
 A second thought on this. Instead of trying to get inside the sharp shooter or worrying about the ext port. What about just modding the controllers into the gun. trace down the trigger on the move controller and use that with some kind of plug (like a dc power plug) that's used to communicate the trigger signal. Just plug in a 2 wire jack into the move controller from the gun and mount as desired. I dont believe we need to get into the nav controller at this time.
Like this , see this thread.... video scope attachment . https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,39109.0.html
This is my prototype design for the ak 47 m203. I am using this design because of the realism of the gun and the fact the move controller fits nicely into the m203.

[1TONpete]

Not much interest it looks like. But I think I might have to modd a "sharpshooter" to get what i want. I can't seem to find much info on the "ext" port.  If i can find one cheap enough , I'll strip it down and see if I can just mount everything I need from it into a toy gun. I thinking about trying this one. The"AUG". One of my fav's from FPS's.
http://www.kids-army.com/products/Steyr-Aug-77-Assault-Rifle.html
my AUG design. With video scope.

or maybe this assault riffle. Its got a nice rail system to mount to.
http://www.kids-army.com/products/G36-Machine-Gun-with-Flashlight.html
One more idea was to mount the move controller into the grenade launcher attachment on the bottom of one of these toys. Like the ak 47/ grenade. I think I like this idea the best, because I dont like the scopes attached anyways. Ant the controller would look more natural there.
http://www.kids-army.com/products/AK%252d47-Lights-and-Sounds-with-Scope.html
Here are are my examples of what gun controllers should look like.

[1TONpete]

I just found a sharpshooter for sale not far from me for 20$. I responded to the add ... If I get this I think it would make this mod way simpler. Just swap the guts. This could be a fun modd.
side note it would be nice to sneak a peek into whats going on on that "ext" port some how...hmmm.... Trigger functions could be tracked down easily because it has a remote digital trigger. The rumble function could also be found because it has its own rumble connected through the "ext". the reload communicates over "ext" too.
what else does "ext" do?
The guy w the sharpshooter texted me back 15$ for it. Sweet!

[Modded Matt]

this does shound like a fun mod.

when you getinto the move controller, please document all aspects of it, from the screws to the mobo, to all the other small parts, just take about 100 pics and I will format and edit them if your not up to writing a tut. if so that would be great. key notesd are power ground, button contacts, terminals for the conectopr etc.

[1TONpete]

No problem Matt. If all works out I will be happy to make a tute. I am going to document the tear down of the sharpshooter and if I end up having to take apart the move controller, I'll document that too. At this point the modd is heading towards swapping the sharpshooter into the guts of an ak47 grenader. I chose the grenader because i can hide most of the move controller inside the grenader housing. And maybe make it so the nav controller mounts to the grenader and folds away into the grenader also.
this one here. What do you think?

If all goes well today I am going to pick up my shapshooter sometime this afternoon. If the family will allow, I will tear down the sharpshooter tonight. I might wait tho and at least test it to make sure its functioning .
Matt how can I test the data transmission over the "ext" port? I would like to probe somehow and perform some actions with the sharpshooter and see what kind of signals are sent to the controller. Maybe find out how to add our own peripherals to the move controller? Also did you check out the thread on the "LCD Scope"? I am ready to test a wired version of this now. wireless involves an investment I am not ready for after purchasing a 60 gig ps3 , a 500gb hdd, all the move stuff, etc.
     Just to clarify Matt. At this point I wont have to take apart the move controller. If all goes well with the sharpshooter, I am hoping to get what I want out of that. I won't need to tap into the move controller because the sharpshooter does that already through the "ext" port on the move controller. But if a tear down tute of the move is still needed I could make one anyways. Let me know. all my stuff is used so I don't have any warranties anyways.

[Modded Matt]

no problem, the site lacks playstation info, so anytime I see someone doing a ps mod I ask for pics and tuts, even if its just a pinout document. the more info we have to provide to our members the better.

admin's note: investigate the local mod for the playstation section completly.

[1TONpete]

I have all ways been a playstation guy. I only did xbox because I could pick them up dirt cheap. Now that I have a ps3, I will be doing some extensive testing and modding of the system and its peripherals. The move stuff has a lot of possibilities. Ill be happy to share all my findings here. I would love some help from R&D for the scope project? I would like to combine the 2 modds. 

[Modded Matt]

R&D is 's dept.

[1TONpete]

After a lot of thought and talking to a friend about the scope idea, I have decided to drop the scope idea for now. I am going to put all my focus on the sharpshooter modded into a better gun. testing did not go well with wireless video. way to much lag. the transmitter used was only a 2.4ghz. maybe a 5g will work but they are expensive.

[1TONpete]

This project just got brought back to # 2 on my priorities list. I came across the perfect toy gun at walmart. All I need is a freakin sharpshooter.
I got the toy gun today. I am thinking I might just take apart my move controller and see if I can find the pinouts for the trigger button.
Looks like its a digital signal not a simple on off. here is a pic from ifixit. the top right is the trigger.

maybe I'll take mine apart to get a closer look.
this is the trigger pad. 6 pins ,#1 loops to #6 , #2 goes trigger "switch1" , #3 goes to trigger "switch2" , #4 dead dummy pin. #5 common for both trigger switches. #6 loops to #1.

What do I do to make this thing fire?
Help please? I put a jumper between #2 and #5 and nothing, #3 and #5 noting. test trigger it fires. HMM ok so maybe it needs both switches closed to fire. So i jump all 3 pins. but now my trigger wont work. If i disconnect the ribbon cable and connect it, it fires. I pulled the trigger back apart 3 times to check to make sure I put it back together right. But the trigger was working after I took apart and was working after/while testing jumping pins 2-5 , and 3-5 separately. Everything else on the controller is working

[[HoP]]

can you possibly take closer pictures???

their pics sux noots


and, that little bugger has LOTS of parts for its size.....

[1TONpete]

Part of my problem is my day started with realizing my kid took my sd card reader and hid it. I got all kinds of pics but I can't upload them.

[hyper999]

whilst the trigger is diconnected could you please take resistance readings, for pressed and unpressed, between pins 2 and 5 and 3 and 5.

[magno]

i don't know if you are still looking for the sharp shooter but you can find it were:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_sc_0_17?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=ps3+sharp+shooter&x=0&y=0&sprefix=ps3+sharp+shooter
and probably in ebay.

[1TONpete]

I got my sharpshooter today! it was on the shelf at target. I also got a new DMM and a new move controller and few other things i needed. I forgot to get a new SD card reader tho. But don't worry I'll post pics of everything when I get a new one.
I got an idea to use the fire mode sel switch to activate a 3mode rf . But how? Would there be coding changes? how to wire?
Here are some of the pics from the break down of the sharpshooter.
(7 out of 10 on difficulty to take apart) I will be creating a tute on breaking down the sharpshooter.
first is a pic of the trigger. all buttons are tacts not resistive controller style. 4pins for trigger ,[] ,/\ go if pin1 = red wire  , then 1 = [] +3.2v , and 2 = /\  +3.2v and 3 = trigger +3.2v and 4 = common all voltages are stable and constant.
resistance changes upon press.

next shot is of the rotary switch for the fire mode sel.

this one is of the board that everything connects to.

next is a shot of the connector to the move controller (which caries power, trigger ,reload,[] , /\ , move button.

a shot of layout of internals.

the fun stuff. putting the internals of the sharpshooter into the m16m203

This last one shows the leds that cascade when trigger is pressed and the original tact for the m16.

Here are assembly pics and semi finished product.

[hyper999]

so is the common line connected to ground directly?

[1TONpete]

let me explain lil hyper. There is 2 separate circuits here. one for the m16 tact and barrel recoil and power, and one for the sharpshooter.
for the common question idk the 4 wire on the left is the lead for the trigger etc. bottom gray is common.

[hyper999]

yeah that looks like that goes straight to ground easiest way to find out for sure is to use your dmm, if the common is direct to ground you should be able to use any of the rapid fire codes that work on matrix 360 controllers.

[1TONpete]

its all assembled , I got pull it apart later to install a switch on the audio so i don't have to listen to it if I don't want to. So when I do I'll run some more tests.

[1TONpete]

update: while waiting on my clear buttons, I started doing a rapid fire setup but I'm running into a lil trouble.
Here's what's going on. I installed a top fire rf . I hook vdd to a 3.2v point on sharpshooter board. right trigger lead goes to trigger on gun , left trigger is open now but I was thinking about putting it on the move button which can be a trigger for some move games. this is also 3.2v  . the leds do funny stuff . First they are on when I turn the controller on. Normally , at least from what I read , it's supposed to start off until you press a tact to turn rf on for the trigger you want. Next the leds are dim, checked v out of chip and its putting 1.8v to leds. I'm using 3mm red leds. did have a resistor on them but not anymore. Next when I hold a tact for changing modes the leds turns off and is supposed to flash what mode Im in on the led. It doesn't flash. just comes back on and stays dimly lit upon release of tact. 10k resistor on pins 1,4 . common ground on sharpshooter. have tested different ground spots , still no change.
Another issue I have thought about is the fact that the sharpshooter has a fire rate switch. I think this has something to do with my problem not getting rf to work. I think the fire rate is over rided by the fire rate switch. There is a low v spot coming out of the switch and a 3.2 high. the high changes to different pins when switched. Always at least one 0'd. Will post a diagram over the pic above later to show whats going on with the board.
If I get time today I will try the gameplay chip Matt did for me. maybe Ill get different results. If the same thing happens I know its not the chip at least.

[hyper999]

these are the points that you should be using (wasnt sure which of the three went to the trigger) and everything should be wired as it is in the CG install diagram posted in the t0pfire thread


(^^^not sure what happened to this image^^^)

[1TONpete]

you were right about the led thing. Hyper thank you so much. But I still got no rf. everything works as normal.  the controller is working and the fire modes on the rf seem to be changing, but i get no change on the gun, single shot or full auto its all the same no rf.

[hyper999]

ok this is the point where an oscilloscope would be really nice :P

could you measure the voltage between the trigger point and ground, with rf on and the trigger pressed?

EDIT: I think I know why its not working, I didn't think we would need a resistor between the PIC and the trigger because the trigger is pulled up to VDD but because the trigger is a digital switch the PIC pin hooked to the trigger point is going straight to ground when the button gets pressed. Therefore, when the PIC pin goes high and the trigger is pressed, the 25ma limit of the PIC pin is overloaded. So just did a quick calculation and a 150ohm resistor between PIC and Trigger point should sort that out. My bad 

[1TONpete]

I will give it a try. thanks hyper.
also , I was talking with fookz last night after you left, and we started talking about snooping on the tx dx lines going to the move controller any ideas. I can get accesses to a scope but I never did anything like this before. I started learning about SDK and stuff like this while working on PSP touch , but I didn't have all the equipment needed.  What do you think?

[hyper999]

we can give it a go but lets just get this working first do you has a 150ohm resistor?

[1TONpete]

i got a ton of scrap to go through to find a 150. I'll check back in a lil bit after i look through and try to find a 150. do you know the color code off hand?

[hyper999]

sorry no, but why dont you use your dmm?

and if you already have assorted resistors but no 150s you can put multiple resistors in series and parallel to make one

e.g       ------[330ohm]------
    ------|                             |---------     
            ------[330ohm]------

two 330ohm resistors like this gives you 165ohms which will be close enough so what do you have at hand?
 

[1TONpete]

220, 280 , silly question 3.3 kohm same as 330 ohm?

[hyper999]

220ohm should be fine and no 3.3kohms = 3300ohms

[1TONpete]

thought so but that # seemed so high. but 220 will do?