Wii U Pro Controller PCB Scans

[RDC]

I don't have scans of the Stick boards here, but there's really nothing special going on with them. They do use the same type of Stick as the oldest version (MSU PP) and latest version (VX6) PS3 controllers.

What is interesting is the main board here is multi-layer, the third controller I know of that uses a multi-layer board now (first was the PS3 Move, second was the 360 CG3 Halo 4 controller) and I imagine before long this will probably be the norm.

All of the buttons are Common Ground, so adding some additional Tact switches or whatever isn't too difficult.








TP10, TP20 - Battery + (3.7v - 4.2v)
TP21 - Ground
TP31 - Analog Voltage + (3.2v)

D1, D2, D3 and D4 - (Player LEDs*) 0603 Blue
* If the Player LEDs are replaced with ones that require a lower forward voltage (1.9v or so) the Resistors R19, R20, R21 and R22 may need too be changed to a little higher value. The default value is 470ohm, which should be fine for any LED really, but to keep the current draw down any 1.9v LEDs (Red for example) should have the Resistors swapped out for 680ohm ones.

[fevera1985]

Hello, I know this thread is old but just asking a question about the controller.
Doe's anyone know how or to install LED's without battery damaging ?

About a few months ago i tried installing 3mm LED's to this controller, but each time
that i did it the controller stopped working. The LED's light up for 5 seconds and then
it died. Wouldn't charge anymore i don't know if the battery got damaged for this. Good thing
I had it less then a month and took it back to gamestop and replaced it.

So then i tried it again but different power point the "TP20" & Ground "TP21" the last controller i did direct from battery
Ground & Positive. Haven't tried "T10" But anyways, I used the TP20" & TP21" and same thing happened.
Broke another controller, Wouldn't charge anymore and wouldn't work charge and play either.
This time i had 2 3mm LED's on the thumb Sticks, so i don't know if its enough capacity to hold a 3mm or 5mm LED.
I replaced the second controller in a different gamestop, but never tried again.

Does anyone have any idea why it kills the battery or whole controller ???
I installed a rapid fire mod (12f683) using the TP20 & TP21 and didn't damage the controller, so i don't know why it wouldn't hold the 3mm LED's.
Will really appreciate the help. Thanks...

[RDC]

Those TP spots are the same as a direct battery and ground connection, hence why they are named as such, so you did nothing new on the second controller but use different spots for the same connections.

Wiring up the LEDs directly to the battery is not how that should be done anyway, so however you came to that conclusion, it was wrong. I seriously doubt that both of controllers were damaged either, at least not from having that done correctly, even though it's incorrect. What most likely happened there was you ran the batteries completely dead and the charging circuit didn't know how to act with that additional load on it. If the LEDs would have been removed from those controllers, and then left to sit and charge, they probably would have been fine.

Use TP21 for Ground
Use TP31 for powering the LED, and since no mention at all was made off any Resistors, use the correct value ones on them this time.

If a 3rd controller dies, then the problem is how you are doing it.

[fevera1985]

I did removed the LED's and left for a full day to charge, and battery never charged.
( and no didn't over charged it, because i tried it every 2 hours lol )
The Charging LED would just blink once and that was it.

On the second time i did used a Resistor for 2 Blue 3mm LED's tho the LEDs i had were 3.0-3.7v
I'll buy a extra controller when they're $25 a peace on best buy every now and then they have them
for that price.so if it dies on me again I won't loose much.
Thanks for the help, i'll try the points you said.