Author Topic: PS3 Remappable controller and code updated (Read 57538 times)

Hazer · « **on:** May 18, 2011, 08:04:23 PM »

Update Jan 20th, 2013: New PC utility with broader sensitivity: http://www.mediafire.com/?pu5o7ha4o8b1fwp

Hello everyone, I am glad to introduce the long awaited PS3 Remappable controller. This project started with the express intention of granting Chuck Bittner his desire to remap the buttons on a standard controller. With this controller, Chuck will be able to remap the buttons on any current and past game that he normally would have to pass on due to the ergonomics of the default button layout. But his petition is much more important than that, as it will allow stock controllers the same ability for all games in the future. So please visit his petition and support the cause.

http://www.petitiononline.com/cu5t0m/petition.html

OK. Now onto the main event! I have spent better than 6 months of late nights (I dont have free time before 10PM) getting this modification to work just right. I have made the decision not only to make the first controller for Chuck, but I am also releasing the files neded for other modders to make thier own, or use it for other abled gamers. In the past, my work has been raped/bunked/stolen as others work and this made me ponder if I should make this mod public or not. My compromise is this: I will release the hex files and the utility and the schematics, but the source code will remain my own. The mod will function as intended without giving anyone the hard work I put in to make a rapidfire and profit from me again. If they want to market the remap as is, thats fine by me. This modification is difficult enough, it probably should be left in the hands of professional modders to perform. Which brings up the next point:

THE DIFFICULTY OF THIS MOD IS HIGHER THAN NORMAL. IT REQUIRES CUTTING TRACES AND SOLDERING TO VIAS. AS SUCH, PERFORMING THIS MOD IS AT YOUR OWN RISK AND ACIDMODS AND I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE THAT MAY OCCUR.

So, the reverse engineering of monitoring the button signals and then having the PIC replicate the signals correctly was a good adventure. First up (for the technically inclined) is that this mod uses the PIC18F14K50 and a modified bootloader to hold the firmware. The bootlaoder was modified to use only one LED and keep the outputs in a safe condition for the PS3 controller during firmware updates. Then came the modding: The LED was installed into the PS3 button using a dual red/green SMD.

The tact button for enabling the bootloader and getting the controller into USB mode was installed on the top of the controller:

The USB port was fashioned from a 2.5mm plug and jack. The finished product was very sleek looking (too bad the tact looks ugly).

I know what your thinking: Why not use the USB port on the controller? I did not fully test the possibility, but there is a chance that wiring both USB ports together could result in either the PIC getting reallt messed up while your chargin the PS3, or you could lose the ability to charge your PS3 from now on. The PS3 requires a USB pre-amble to charge from the USB port. You cannot simply use a 5V source with a USB cable end. The PS3 will shut itself off if it does not get the proper communication protocol when it needs to charge. So on to the wire tidying:

I really should have just etched a SMD PCB to get this all in, but I thought I was saving time by free-handing the entire circuit (I was wrong):

In the end, we now have the final mod for Chuck Bittner. A quick demo:

PS3 Remap controller Utility

Here is the main schematic. It shows the components leading to the points on the PS3 PCB:

Here are the PCB points on the V35X board: (pictures credit to RDC (really, who else?))

The VX4.0

and the VX3.0

Once installed, the buttons are disconnected from the PS3 main inputs and the PIC then deciphers the remapping stored in EEPROM and sends out the new signals. This means you can map any button to any other button. You can make all the buttons be DPAD up if you want (but you never should). Another feature is the Toggle/Hold function. You can set the button to toggle its new mapping instead of direct remap. By this I mean you tap the button to make the function turn on and stay on as if you were holding the button down indefinately, and another quick tap would turn the function off. This should help greatly with sight-aiming. One downfall of this mod is that the buttons are originally analog/pressure sensitive. The PIC is programmed to create digital signals, so there is no intermediate values. Remember this for driving games. Another feature is that you can adjust the pressure needed for the PIC to see a button press. You can make the controller very sensitive, or require a good tap to register presses, its your choice.

The following buttons are the ones that can be remapped to each other: X, Circle, Trianlge, Square, R1, R2, L1, L2, DPAD up, DPAD down, DPAD right, DPAD left, right stick click (R3), and left stick click (L3). The analog sticks were left alone (sorry, no southpaw).
The user guide and zip file with all schematics and the PC utility can be downloaded here:

http://www.mediafire.com/?zk1nqsljw8jjl36
http://www.mediafire.com/?b0u2f6r30od6ecl

This has been installed on my own V3.5X Dualshock that I am donating to Chuck. Modded Matt is in the process of testing one of the other versions.

In final mentioning, the bootloader has made it possible to fix any bugs that may be found in the future. It also means that if a remapping feature can be improved, I can create the firmware and it can be added without opening the controller. I will not be adding macros or rapidfire though. If I did that, this would simply not be public in any form or manner. Sorry, I have fed the Ebayers enough already.

And Chuck, I hope this controller helps in some small way, and is a good crutch until they finally make it so that the controller is remappable through the PS3 dashboard.

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #1 on:** May 18, 2011, 09:21:09 PM »

all i can say is wow! great job man! i would like to try this one day. Hopefully i can do this without destroying more that 3 controllers lol! great job!

toadzilla · « **Reply #2 on:** May 18, 2011, 10:01:10 PM »

all i gotta say hazer is im truly amazed on how much work you put in to this its people like u that make the world go around

1TONpete · « **Reply #3 on:** May 18, 2011, 10:31:17 PM »

Just wow.

I am all for helping disabled gamers too man. Thank you.

hyper999 · « **Reply #4 on:** May 19, 2011, 12:58:49 AM »

Firstly AWESOME!

and secondly any chance we could have a peak at the source code, or is it under lock and key?

AskACapper · « **Reply #5 on:** May 19, 2011, 01:03:16 PM »

WOW.... I'm speechless and that's not good because now people will think I'm a vegetable!

Hazer I thank you soooooo much wow sir just wow.... i gotta pwn noobs now

Viking360 · « **Reply #6 on:** May 21, 2011, 09:44:00 AM »

Nice work Hazer!

I've got a parallel (albeit commercial project) on my workbench right now. You did this the hard way - we can get 'software-only' (no trace cutting) remapping of the D-pad, square, circle, ex, triangle, R1, R2, L1, L2 without any trace cutting. I don't think I can get software-only remapping of R3 and L3 since those aren't polled the same way that COM1 and COM2 are polled.

Did you tinker at all with software-based remapping? Hazer, this is for a good cause, if we can get the licensing/legal worked out, I would totally be interested in donating source code to help cut down on the complexity of soldering this mod.

Though, as-is, the soldering is not that bad considering the functionality you get out of it! Still much easier to install than that CGNome project that RDC has been brewing for XBOX 360 remappable controller :-)

Again, Kudos again for a top, warm-hearted contribution from Hazer to the community!

Hazer, in the interest of helping disabled gamers, I would also be willing to bankroll selling modchips at-cost with a button remapping on it. You can preflash and lock down the chips and provide the utility for free. At-cost these chips are down in the $2-$5 range depending on what kind of price you can get on assembly all the little bits and pieces. Releasing the .HEX still leaves you open to people selling a button-remapping mod for $30-$50 or something silly like that. Selling pre-flashed,

chips prevents the theft. (assuming you are using the external EEPROM to save the preferences and that could just be left unlocked).

Viking360 · « **Reply #7 on:** May 21, 2011, 10:14:28 AM »

Hazer,

I've got a USB-capable PCBoard designed specifically for the PS3, based on the same PIC18LF14K50 you used. I produced 1,000 of these bare PCB's as a prototype run. There are some minor issues (I placed one of my headers totally backwards, but that's for a commercial custom add-on anyway), and I have my own custom solder pad labels on the board, but otherwise these boards would be perfect for your project.

I'm always up for helping out you and moddedmatt for all the time you donate to the disabled gamer community.

Attached are some pics of my 'paper prototype', the finished chip, and a picture of what an install would look like. I really need to go eat breakfast, but I saw your post before I was able to get my morning cup of coffee and got excited. In any case I would definitely be interested in helping with the project. Let me know your thoughts.

Hazer · « **Reply #8 on:** May 21, 2011, 01:03:40 PM »

Thanks E. I am aware of doing the remap thorugh software only. i discovered it during a timing bug that I had to work through. By this time, I had already cut the traces and soldered everything in and I was primarily working on the software portion only. I looked at the software version and found some circumstnaces that required work-arounds. But at the time, I was making a single controller and already had the circuit completed.

This was a few months ago. Most of my time has been spent troubleshooting firmware and PC software to complete this. I wanted to be done in 4 weeks, it took me 6 months (more of a matter of how much free time I have, not how hard it was to design). I plan to review the software version again, but for this mod I have a good comfort level with this circuit. When it comes to personal preference, I am not a fan of simply forcing voltage onto the controllers original circuitry.

So now the decision is, do I review the software remap to get rid of 2 wires, 4 resistors, and 2 trace cuts. This would benefit anybody replicating the circuit for future installs. The problem would be (as you already know) the main routine to handle the pulse train would have to be rewritten. Over-all it probably would not be too bad. Under normal circumstances, maybe 2 weks. Under current circumstances, 3 months. Again, I started this purely with the intention of giving Chuck the controller. Matt was helping me testing. Also, I was sharing the files with Matt due to his dedication to mods for abled gamers. It was only recently did I even consider making this public in any way. But by keepingthe source, I do not see enough people talented enough to steal design. Lets face it, if those people were out there, you would have had much more competition on the original V360 chip.

I guess what I am saying is I think I have provided enough. I actually have been trying to get to a point to work on a project for myself. If I spend any more time on this, it would only be to make things easier for other people to install this for themselves. But heres the way I look at it: looking at the level of modding done on most abled gamer controllers, this circuit is simple (look at Matts and others complete reconfiguring of the physical button layouts). Also, this circuit is just complex enough to keep the Ebayers from profitting off of it (without the source). I dont see much of a commercial market for remapping without macros or rapidfire anyway.

If anyone did want to contribute, maybe someone could get this on a SMD PCB in it current form. But I think I am going to step back for a bit.

Viking360 · « **Reply #9 on:** May 21, 2011, 02:44:13 PM »

Quote from: Hazer on May 21, 2011, 01:03:40 PM

I guess what I am saying is I think I have provided enough. I actually have been trying to get to a point to work on a project for myself. If I spend any more time on this, it would only be to make things easier for other people to install this for themselves. But heres the way I look at it: looking at the level of modding done on most abled gamer controllers, this circuit is simple (look at Matts and others complete reconfiguring of the physical button layouts). Also, this circuit is just complex enough to keep the Ebayers from profitting off of it (without the source). I dont see much of a commercial market for remapping without macros or rapidfire anyway.

Totally agreed and understood! :-) I have been having the same 'fun' working with the Microchip USB libraries customizing the bootloader. Ironically it is now lunchtime for me :-) I will check back on this thread in a bit.

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #10 on:** June 03, 2011, 01:10:50 AM »

Hey gazer I'm just wondering. I have a Bluetooth module and it uses ttl signals. Is it possible to intead of having a USB jack sicking out having a Bluetooth module with the serial to program it wirelessly and it won't interfer with ether the USB and the Bluetooth signal? Thee Bluetooth boards are like 6 bucks and I think it's a good way to have a nice clean controller. Hope you don't mind my question. XD

hyper999 · « **Reply #11 on:** June 03, 2011, 02:50:08 AM »

Quote from: geraldrubalcava on June 03, 2011, 01:10:50 AM

Hey gazer I'm just wondering. I have a Bluetooth module and it uses ttl signals. Is it possible to intead of having a USB jack sicking out having a Bluetooth module with the serial to program it wirelessly and it won't interfer with ether the USB and the Bluetooth signal? Thee Bluetooth boards are like 6 bucks and I think it's a good way to have a nice clean controller. Hope you don't mind my question. XD

I assume you mean the bluetooth module uses TTL serial.

This mod uses USB not TTL serial, so no it won't work.

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #12 on:** June 03, 2011, 06:37:45 AM »

ea i kinda already knew. i was just guessing if the usb library could be replaced and was able to use the serial library in the code. but most likely not.

Modded Matt · « **Reply #13 on:** June 03, 2011, 07:35:30 AM »

this uses a stereo jack to usb, very clean install.

geraldrubalcava · « **Reply #14 on:** June 03, 2011, 07:58:32 AM »

thats true. i was just thinking of modding it to be wireless remapped. BTW this is one of the best modds ive seen yet! and has a good practical use. love it man!

AskACapper · « **Reply #15 on:** June 03, 2011, 01:56:32 PM »

THE EAGLE HAS LANDED... Video incoming... i love u hazer...

drummerdude · « **Reply #16 on:** June 03, 2011, 05:45:43 PM »

this mod sounds great, makes me wanna go and get me a ps3. anyway this could b possible on 360? cause i would totally do this.

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #17 on:** June 04, 2011, 06:39:27 AM »

Wow thats an interesting mod.

Hazer · « **Reply #18 on:** June 05, 2011, 02:35:37 PM »

Quote

Hey gazer I'm just wondering. I have a Bluetooth module and it uses ttl signals. Is it possible to intead of having a USB jack sicking out having a Bluetooth module with the serial to program it wirelessly and it won't interfer with ether the USB and the Bluetooth signal? Thee Bluetooth boards are like 6 bucks and I think it's a good way to have a nice clean controller. Hope you don't mind my question. XD

Well, I have no idea if the BT module would mess with the controller being wireless or not. If I were to make a wireless connection between the PIC and the and the PC, I would choose RF since its on a completely different band than the controllers conection. Changing the software to use serial is not much fun. I am not that great of a computer programmer, it takes me more time than most. So changing anything to make things easier or cleaner for other people at my expense..... is not going to happen. I did all of this for Chucks benefit. I released the files so other people could use it (as is) for themselves (or other abled gamers designs).

Quote

this mod sounds great, makes me wanna go and get me a ps3. anyway this could b possible on 360? cause i would totally do this.

Completely different controller. Would take another couple months of work. RDC has already done this anyway, with a full software package. You should ask him if he has any hardware you could buy to do your own.

frenulem - No.5417 · « **Reply #19 on:** June 05, 2011, 05:05:47 PM »

Hazer if I could ever become a modder like you I will be so happy. Ther needs to be a Nobel prize for modding or something, cuz damn your a good human being and an amazing modder, I don't think there will ever be a time when I won't be amazed by your products or your dedication. Thank you for everything you do for people. If you ever need anything give me a shout, screw the eBay douches. Anyway FOOKz is good with SMD parts and PCBs

Hazer · « **Reply #20 on:** October 10, 2011, 05:31:33 PM »

Chuck is enjoying his controller:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bV6MaHB1pO4

GhoSt · « **Reply #21 on:** October 10, 2011, 06:01:12 PM »

You are the biggest legend hazer. Well done.
and happy gaming to chuck

3D0kassiah · « **Reply #22 on:** October 10, 2011, 07:36:27 PM »

big ups hazer def a force to be reckon with

hyper999 · « **Reply #23 on:** October 11, 2011, 12:20:20 PM »

YOU'RE ON HACK A DAY!!

http://hackaday.com/2011/10/11/playstation-3-controller-made-fully-remappable/

Modded Matt · « **Reply #24 on:** October 11, 2011, 12:26:49 PM »

Quote from: hyper999 on October 11, 2011, 12:20:20 PM

YOU'RE ON HACK A DAY!!

http://hackaday.com/2011/10/11/playstation-3-controller-made-fully-remappable/

I sent it to all the news sites last night. I wish they would have posted my article with it stating some of Hazer's other accomplishments.

devilinops · « **Reply #25 on:** October 22, 2011, 04:42:25 PM »

Hi i was wondering if you could tell me where to solder the 3 wire to if i was going to use a mini usb port since i don't have a male to usb 2.5 also sorry but i couldn't figure out what R1 was u have a u$1 near it but if that's the value idk what it is then.

Modded Matt · « **Reply #26 on:** October 22, 2011, 05:01:48 PM »

pins 18, 19 and ground

devilinops · « **Reply #27 on:** October 22, 2011, 05:20:47 PM »

oh sorry matt i ment where would i solder to the female mini usb port since its got 5 solder spots since i don't have a 2.5 male end

Hazer · « **Reply #28 on:** October 22, 2011, 08:37:35 PM »

Connector pinouts:

http://pinouts.ws/usb-pinout.html

On the PIC:
Pin 18 is D-
Pin 19 is D+

Rodent · « **Reply #29 on:** October 23, 2011, 03:24:24 AM »

Hazer Nice work!!! Awesome job once again, Happy Gamming Chuck ,also hope your gaming is out of this world now

devilinops · « **Reply #30 on:** October 24, 2011, 12:13:46 PM »

thanks Hazer for the info for mini usb and that site will come in handy in the future also the R1 in your diagram doesn't seem to have a value do you remember what resistor was you used?

Hazer · « **Reply #31 on:** October 24, 2011, 06:13:23 PM »

R1 is 10K Ohms. Its a simple pull-up resistor, anything between 5K and 20K will do fine.

Moosh89 · « **Reply #32 on:** October 29, 2011, 02:34:34 PM »

I don't care if this sounds lame, but this made me cry! hahaha

I am also disabled, and I did sign Chucks petition a long time ago, and have found him on a few message boards that I post on. I finally found this board and lo and behold... I find him again! AND that he now has a controller he can use!

This is just way too great. Thank you Hazer, and anyone else involved... I feel like I've just witnessed a miracle or something! (OK that sounds really cheesy but its how I feel! haha)

I was amazed at watching Chuck play Call of Duty before with his face. I noticed that he was very limited on what he could do, gameplay wise, but was proud that he could still enjoy himself. Watching him play with his new controller is like watching someone who is not disabled play. That is what made me cry.

Video games have been a very big part of my life. Its family time with my brothers, its "escaping the fears" of my crazy life, with being disabled, and just a bit of natural bad luck thrown in for good measure (We lost my childhood home to fire, and most of its contents, and our new house they built is no good, so they'll either have to rebuild again or buy us out, We don't know what they'll do). They have also been physically theraputic. The strength in my hands has increased, as well as my reaction time

I am very lucky, that with the severity of my disease, my hands are not really affected. I would be lost without my hands, they drive me, they play games with me, they create things with me, they show my affection for those I love by hand holding, or a warm placement of my hand upon my Mothers back or shoulder, Petting our animals and playing with my nephew <3.

So thank you everyone! it really means alot!

And please, If you haven't done so already, PLEASE sign Chucks Petition! There are many, many disabled people out there who cannot play video games with standard control schemes.

SIGN THE PETITION HERE!:
http://www.petitiononline.com/cu5t0m/petition.html

JOHNNYJR3334 · « **Reply #33 on:** January 01, 2012, 10:20:43 AM »

I was born without arms, and only have 1/2 of a leg that has a foot where the knee would be. I use my foot as others would use their hands. I have been a gamer myself since Atari. The first biggest challenge I faced was with the ps2. I, like Mr Bittner was unable to reach and use the L and R buttons. I then found a controller called the stormchaser. This controller was extremely easy for me to use.

Then Came the ps3. I had to wait a while to see if someone would make a remapping controller. I then saw where you can use an adapter to use ps2 controller on ps3. WOW, what an answer to pray....however, that pad does not work with all games (such as Socom4). I have been real discouraged until I found this forum.

This mod is a real answer to prayer. Are these controllers for sale? I am in real need.

And, just in case someone is doubting my condition, you can check out my website (johnnyhudson.com), or find me on YouTube (under armlessbowler).

Any help will be GREATLY appreciated. If needed my email address is preacher@johnnyhudson.com. Thank you in advance.

COREGAMER · « **Reply #34 on:** January 02, 2012, 06:21:49 AM »

Good work hazer
I think you are the greatest modder in history m8.
keep up the good work

Rodent · « **Reply #35 on:** January 02, 2012, 07:24:15 AM »

Quote from: COREGAMER on January 02, 2012, 06:21:49 AM

Good work hazer
I think you are the greatest modder in history m8.
keep up the good work

AGREED!!!! and a Modder who cares about others!!!

COREGAMER · « **Reply #36 on:** January 02, 2012, 07:02:52 PM »

Yeah Someday I wanna become like hazer

Hazer · « **Reply #37 on:** January 02, 2012, 07:23:39 PM »

Quote from: JOHNNYJR3334 on January 01, 2012, 10:20:43 AM

I was born without arms, and only have 1/2 of a leg that has a foot where the knee would be. I use my foot as others would use their hands. I have been a gamer myself since Atari. The first biggest challenge I faced was with the ps2. I, like Mr Bittner was unable to reach and use the L and R buttons. I then found a controller called the stormchaser. This controller was extremely easy for me to use.

Then Came the ps3. I had to wait a while to see if someone would make a remapping controller. I then saw where you can use an adapter to use ps2 controller on ps3. WOW, what an answer to pray....however, that pad does not work with all games (such as Socom4). I have been real discouraged until I found this forum.

This mod is a real answer to prayer. Are these controllers for sale? I am in real need.

And, just in case someone is doubting my condition, you can check out my website (johnnyhudson.com), or find me on YouTube (under armlessbowler).

Any help will be GREATLY appreciated. If needed my email address is preacher@johnnyhudson.com. Thank you in advance.

Hey Johnny. What you can do is post in the "modders for hire" section and see if someone will build this for you. I am wondering if you might need something a little different than what Chuck got, especially since you mentioned the Stormchaser. If what you need is more buttons on the face, someone can possibly do that too.

cdanv · « **Reply #38 on:** August 13, 2015, 01:03:56 PM »

The microprocessor used in the tutorial is this?
http://www.tme.eu/en/details/pic18f14k50-i_p/8-bit-microchip-microcontrollers/microchip-technology/

WHITE 4ND N3RDY · « **Reply #39 on:** August 14, 2015, 08:23:39 PM »

Quote from hazers post; " this mod uses the PIC18F14K50". So to awenser your question yes that microchip u have posted will work fine. Don't worry about the I/P at the end of it. That's the one u would want to get.

WHITE 4ND N3RDY · « **Reply #40 on:** August 15, 2015, 04:42:37 PM »

I bet u could wire a 8 pin Rapid fire chip to this remapper chip and have remappible Rapid fire. Anyone think this would be plausible? If it connects to the com and I connect the connections to the remapper pic that are wire to where the 8 pin chip should be wired I don't see any reason why it wouldn't re convert the signals. So I could change the R2 to any button then activate the mod and run it. Might have to pick up a ps3 controller and test this out. Of course I don't own a ps3 controller but it would be a fun project to build them sell it off for 60$ lol. Put a ps3 trufire fusion V3.5 8 pin chip!!!! I like to think out side of the box of conventional. Its always done me right in a lot of my own builds like my 360 prototype controller where I made 6 12f683 chips wired to a 360 controller. Would love to see someone do this.

Gary · « **Reply #41 on:** January 03, 2016, 08:54:37 PM »

hello all. I'm new here and I'm interested in doing this mod. I'm a long time android gamer and love sixaxis app because I can custom map all my shooter games exactly like I want. makes playing different games much easier. So back on subject. My main issue with the op's original post is none of the pics in the tutorial work. Makes doing this difficult mod extremely difficult. Any way those pics can be restored? Also just like to add I'm no noob to working on electronics and modifying them I used to build custom cb radios for fun. that said ill have some more questions I'm sure and appreciate any help.

RDC · « **Reply #42 on:** January 04, 2016, 08:12:42 AM »

The wiring diagrams are in the mediafire links. As for the Tact switch install and headphone/USB jack, those can really go wherever you like as long as there is room for them.

CBs are a pretty far cry from the guts of a DS3. It's not really the next logical step to take there, as everything is mere fractions of the size and far more fragile, so take your time and be very careful with everything in there.

The pics also only cover the VX3, VX3.5 and VX4 version DS3 controllers, so if you have another version you'll have to figure out what spots to use and where to cut your traces. Sony didn't change the way the VX versions work, just hardware after hardware after hardware revisions. I stopped messing with them years back and never ran across the newer versions, so that thread isn't 100% up to date, but they still work the same as the older versions.

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?/topic/648322-ps3-controller-versions-and-tp-spots/#entry4261549

Gary · « **Reply #43 on:** January 04, 2016, 11:19:29 AM »

Lot of good info there itl help out thanks. I got controllers going back to the original fatty that still work just need a cleaning. Found this thread and thought it sounds like a good winter project. Seems like cheap fun and if it works even better.

RDC · « **Reply #44 on:** January 04, 2016, 11:50:27 AM »

I can't recall if I ever posted this around here or not, just found the draft for it in my PS3 folder and it's around 3 years old, but it was about installing this thing. You might find some of it useful also...

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This was thought up and done by Hazer here on the AM forums, so all credit goes to him for it. I have nothing to do with it besides the way I went about installing it here is all. His entire post should be read thru before thinking of attempting this, as well as the place to grab the files you'll need for it if you decide too. Some of it is gone over again here, but either way it should be read thru first. - https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,39591.0.html

This isn't exactly a full 100% step by step install tutorial, but it's more than a just how I did it thread as well.

I wanted to keep all of the wiring on the back side of the controller board, so this is a tad more difficult, on top of how much it already is, than it could be. After all of the prep work is done, then the board can be reinstalled with no having to flip it back or wiring on the top side that could come loose and it all pulled apart for a repair.

This was installed on a VX5 version PS3 controller, though the pictures can apply to the VX4 as well, since that board is pretty much in the same layout, but it should be double checked if anyone attempts it. The version of controller doesn't matter, since all of the PS3 controllers work the same way, it's just the spots everything would go will be different depending.

Decide if you're going to use the USB connector of the controller for the Programming cable, or an external USB connector of some sort. Either way will work, but if you use the controller's USB connector then you need to cut 2 more traces and use a DPDT switch for the install. I used the USB connector and a DPDT, the one Hazer did was with a 2.5mm headset jack, again either way will work the same, this is just how I did this one.

Tools

Programmer that can flash a PIC 18F14k50
Hex files for the PIC
Phillips screwdriver
Soldering Iron
Hot Glue Gun
Xacto knife

Parts

PIC 18F14k50
12MHz Xtal

Tact switch, N.O. Momentary type (For Programming button)

Resistors
- 100ohm x1
- 10k x 3
- 13k x 2
- 14k x 2 (just in case)
- 22k x 2
- 86k x 1

Capacitors
- 0.1uF x 1
- 0.47uF x 1
- 18pf x 2 (For Xtal. Optional but recommended. Check the Xtal DataSheet for the recommended value)

DPDT switch (only if USB connector is going to be used)

Connector for USB Programming Cable. (only if USB connector is NOT going to be used)

LED - BiColor, Red/Green. Do not use an LED that has 3 leads as it has either a Common Anode or Common Cathode connection made internally, and that will not work for this. You can use either 2 separate LEDs, or some SMT version that has them both in the same package, but still gives you access to each LEDs connections separately.

NOTE - This isn't an easy modification and it has it's challenges, plus the PS3 controllers aren't as forgiving as most other controller's circuit boards. Even if you're the cat's arse with the 360 controller, the PS3 controllers are a completely different animal. Don't find out the hard way you shouldn't have tried it, or you'll at best end up with a ruined controller. If you have money to throw away on ruined controllers, then just have someone that can do it build the thing for you so everyone comes out ahead.

This assumes you have the controller already taken apart and the board removed, because if you need help with that part of it, then the rest of this is something that shouldn't even be thought about attempting.

First desolder the Left Stick from the board, 16 solder joints. Cut the trace where the Black mark is. This is ideally the maximum area the Xacto blade should touch. A new blade in the Xacto knife will make a world of difference here. This is also the easiest trace to cut for this mod.

Then take the Stick and cut the marked pin. Either use a small piece of tape or cut the pin flush, or more, with the plastic of the Stick so it's isolated from the hole it was originally in. After that trace has been cut and the pin removed you can reinstall the Stick.

There are 3 traces on the back side of the board that need to be cut. Again, be VERY careful when cutting them as other traces around them don't want to be cut. Use a good magnifying glass and more than adequate light so you can see what you're doing. Again the traces need to be cut are where the Black marks are.

If you are going to use the USB connector, then there are 2 more traces that need to be cut.

At this point you should install the LED, Programming button and if you're using the USB connector then install the DPDT switch. If not, then install whatever connector you're using for the Programmming cable.

The wiring for the DPDT switch is the USB connector goes to the 2 middle pins of the switch. Then one side of the switch goes to the controller's TP2 (D-) and TP3 (D+) spots on the board, while the other side will go to the D- and D+ connections of the 18F14k50 chip. Make SURE that all of the D- and D+ connections are wired correctly. If you get a D- and a D+ crossed it's not going to kill anything, but it's not going to work either.

The Programming button, LED and DPDT/connector can be installed wherever you like, as long as there is room. This is just how I did this one.

The PIC 18F14k50

Use the programmer and flash the USB Device BootLoader.hex file to the PIC.

After that has been done, you can use the BootLoader.exe to flash the Remap Project.hex file to the PIC. Make sure the Xtal is installed on the PIC at this point, or it will not run and thus the BootLoader.exe app will not see it.

Once you have the PIC flashed and then programmed, you can build the circuit up however you like. I opted to have a board made so I could keep the components small, and it's easier in the long run to deal with, but any method will work the same as long as everything is connected correctly.

Refer to this picture and again to the pictures above to see what connections go where.

RC1 - Read COM1
RC2 - Read COM2
WC1 - Write COM1
WC2 - Write COM2
RL3 - Read L3
RR3 - Read R3
WL3 - Write L3
WR3 - Write R3
TGR - Trigger
SW - Switch (Programming button)
VDD - 2.8v power, TP13
GND - Ground

INSTALLED (the way I did it)

TESTING

Make sure you're using a battery that is either close to or fully charged and turn the controller on, the LED you installed should be Red. Tap the Programming button to make sure the PIC is working. It should change back and forth from Red / not pressed to Green / pressed. If it does not, go back and check all of the wiring and trace cuts as everything has to be connected up properly before things will work.

PROGRAMMING MODE

Press and hold the Programming button for a couple of seconds, the LED will be Green and then turn Red briefly. Quickly release the Programming button while it's Red. If you wait too long the LED will go back to Green and you have to release the Programming button and try again.

If you release the Programming button correctly, the LED will stay Red and NOT change color to Green when tapped. This means it is now in Programming Mode.

If you used the USB connector and DPDT switch, flip the switch over to the Remap chip side and plug up your USB cable to the controller and the PC. The LED will quickly flash Red/Green while it's syncing to the PC, then it will slowly blink Green when it's complete. You can now start the Remap Utility.

REMAPPING

Press the 'Connect' button (top left corner) and the 'Save to Controller' button (top right corner) should become active.

ISSUES (just in case)

This is the only problem I had after the install, so anything other than this will be a new one.

I had an issue on this VX5 after installing the Remap board. If the controller seems like all of the buttons are pressed at the same time and is unresponsive, press and hold the Programming button and see if the Sticks will then work. If it does, then the 13k Resistors need to be changed to the 14k ones and it should start working then.

Gary · « **Reply #45 on:** January 04, 2016, 05:36:57 PM »

Again lots of good info I really appreciate it. Now I need to start gathering up what's needed and figure out what controller is going to be my guinea pig then gut it. Thanks.

Ok so I've been doing research and most of what I need isn't to hard to find would be easier if radio shack was like it was years back but no biggie. My biggest obstacle is figuring out how to push the bootloader to the pic. Is this done by connecting it directly to a usb cable to the computer? I've found a device called a pic2 witch doesn't seem to be avaliable anyway anymore but not sure if I even need such a device. I've rooted and flashed many devices with new operating systems but never just a chip. How do you guy do this?

[admin]Please do not double post click edit to add to your post[/admin]

RDC · « **Reply #46 on:** January 05, 2016, 10:28:02 AM »

So, did that research include reading my last post? As the very first thing in the Tools section is..

Quote

Tools

Programmer that can flash a PIC 18F14k50

The PICkit 2 does not fully support the 18F14K50, but the PICkit 3 does. You can pick up a PK3 for around $30 or so online.

After you have it, you'll need the stand alone programmer app for it. http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/PICkit_3_Programmer_1_0_Setup_A.zip

Then you'll connect 5 wires to the chip from the programmer, ICSP or In Circuit Serial Programming, VPP, VDD, VSS, CLK and DAT, and then load up the hex and flash away. After that, the programmer and app are not needed again for this project.

If you're not into all of that, and then possibly having a useless tool that will collect dust, I'm sure there are a couple of guys around here that could flash up the PIC for you if you covered the cost of them getting it and the shipping. I'm in the US and could do it if you wanted to go that route.

Gary · « **Reply #47 on:** January 05, 2016, 02:41:30 PM »

I didn't even notice the tools needed said programer needed. I did read it I just can't see as well as I used to. Also leaving my reading glasses at work doesn't help either. Don't mind much buying tools I use one time I got tools going back to the 70s I've used one time. I look at them as an investment in learning something. Although I've already given it thought that if this is beyond my skills I'll try and find one of you guys if interested to make me one.

Ordered up the pik3 from amazon. After sorting out all the clones I found one for $30. Gonna be a month before I see it dang free shipping is slow. But that gives me plenty of time to find all the little parts needed. I'm gonna try and scavenge resisters from broken electronics to save a buck if I can and I need to still order the pic. Thanks

Rdc if you don't mind me asking where did you get the switch you used to switch the programming port? Can't find one like that there all too big even the so called micro switches.

[admin]Please do not Double or triple post click edit to add to your post or edit post[/admin]

RDC · « **Reply #48 on:** January 11, 2016, 04:48:01 PM »

It's a G22AP, made by NKK Switches. You can get it at DigiKey, Mouser an the like. It's a bit pricey at $5, but it's been a staple switch I've used for a lot of controllers I've done, along with the AYZ0202GRLC by C&K Components if you prefer a slide switch, as they are small and work.

Gary · « **Reply #49 on:** January 12, 2016, 04:49:14 AM »

Thanks.

Gary · « **Reply #50 on:** January 23, 2016, 01:59:18 PM »

Quick question. The op provided the bootloader and a remap hex. Do both get flashed to the pic or just the bootloader? Got my pic3 and flashed the bootloader but not sure about the other file at this point. Thanks.

RDC · « **Reply #51 on:** January 23, 2016, 03:15:21 PM »

That information is in the post I made on how I did this.

Modded Matt · « **Reply #52 on:** January 25, 2016, 05:38:18 AM »

Hello Gary,

Hazer (The OP) is great at what he does, but sometimes expects the users to know more than they do. I do not see where he clearly stated how to program the chip. If you go up and read RDC (another great member) reply #44 he goes into more detail.

A boot loader is an application on the PC that allows in circuit programming from a PC. so once everything is installed the code can be modified without the need to disassemble the controller. However, a boot loader does not just work on its own, the PIC you are using must be flashed with the bootloader HEX prior to assembly. an any remap or update HEx files are flashed after assembly using the desktop PC bootloader application.

All of this info is noted above.

RDC · « **Reply #53 on:** January 25, 2016, 05:56:12 AM »

Even I didn't go into really great detail with the steps up there, so IIRC here is a bit more info on how all of that goes..

1 - Use the PICkit to flash the PIC with the "USB Device - HID - HID Bootloader - C18 - PIC18F14K50.hex" file first. After this the programmer is of no more use for this project.

2 - Either go ahead with the installation of everything else at this point, or just wire up the USB connections, the Xtal and power/ground to the PIC. I'd recommend doing this so you can see if it works before wiring up that whole entire mess (no disrepect to Hazer mean there) only to find out that it does not work and you're tearing it all back out to start over or find what is wrong.

3 - Now you can use the HIDbootloader.exe to flash the PIC with the "Remap Project.hex" file, and that is done over the USB connection.

Gary · « **Reply #54 on:** January 25, 2016, 06:09:55 AM »

It is a little foggy how the programming works. I came to the conclusion it needs to be connected directly to the computer like you just said for the remap project to flash. I'm in the process of doing that just going for broke and doing a complete install then plug it in and see if the bootloader exe sees it. I'm doing it like hazer did one wire at a time starting with the easy ones. No bull this is very hard to do I can only do so much then need to walk away. Thanks for the clarification.

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