Author Topic: XBOX360 spi/usb flasher by darkstar (Read 28144 times)

Anonamous · « **on:** October 08, 2011, 04:48:35 PM »

IMAGE IS NOW CORRECT

Binaries and Files to make the above

Ok first things first. Instead of using a 12 mhz resonator, we are going to use a 12Mhz crystal and 2 22pF capacitors. Also, instead of the 220nF capacitor we will use a .047uF capacitor.

With that read/write takes 2-5 minutes. LPT cable takes 2 hours.

I am really too lazy to write a tutorial. That is darkstars usb/spi nand flasher design. And you must use a usb connector, cutting off an end of a usb cable does not work for some reason.

Parts List: Quantity

12Mhz Crystal: 1
22pF capacitor: 2
.1uF capacitor: 1
USB Connector: 1
PIC18F2455: 1
100 ohm resistors: 5
10k ohm resistors: 2
.47uF capacitor: 1
Pickit 2 (or other programmer to program the microcontroller)

Here are the Eagle Files for anybody interested. I did in fact create these. So if you decide to post these files anywhere else, please give me credit. I was going to just print the image to file or export it, but no matter what it does not scale the image properly. So just open the file in eagle and print it. Eagle Files

Rodent · « **Reply #1 on:** October 08, 2011, 06:07:32 PM »

Looking great and thanks for parts list . which program should we use to program the PIC18F2455

Anonamous · « **Reply #2 on:** October 08, 2011, 06:08:57 PM »

it depends on what you use to program it. I use a pickit2 so I used the program that came with it. Once you program it and put it into the circuit the bootloader is activated so you only need to program it once.

Anonamous · « **Reply #3 on:** October 23, 2011, 08:20:57 AM »

The image is now correct. I will hopefully soon be etching some boards and if they come out good enough I may sell some in the bst thing.

magic_man185 · « **Reply #4 on:** October 23, 2011, 02:32:38 PM »

I also made a pcb layout, to etch a board for this design, I just haven't had time to etch the board. Anonamous, have you actually tried just using a cable without the USB connector? I was planning to just use a cable, because I didn't want to have to drill through the board to mount a USB connector on it.

Rodent · « **Reply #5 on:** October 23, 2011, 03:13:45 PM »

Quote from: Anonamous on October 23, 2011, 08:20:57 AM

The image is now correct. I will hopefully soon be etching some boards and if they come out good enough I may sell some in the bst thing.

let me know i might be interested

Quote from: magic_man185 on October 23, 2011, 02:32:38 PM

I also made a pcb layout, to etch a board for this design, I just haven't had time to etch the board. Anonamous, have you actually tried just using a cable without the USB connector? I was planning to just use a cable, because I didn't want to have to drill through the board to mount a USB connector on it.

still waiting ...

also thats a good idea just solder the usb cable to the board

Anonamous · « **Reply #6 on:** October 23, 2011, 06:12:36 PM »

Quote from: magic_man185 on October 23, 2011, 02:32:38 PM

I also made a pcb layout, to etch a board for this design, I just haven't had time to etch the board. Anonamous, have you actually tried just using a cable without the USB connector? I was planning to just use a cable, because I didn't want to have to drill through the board to mount a USB connector on it.

yes i have tried. Wondered why it did not work. bought parts for another one with slightly modified things, did not work , bought parts for it again, and then tried using a connector and it magically worked. I honestly have no idea why it doesnt work, but just use a connector. Maybe somebody can shed some light on why it wouldnt work?

Also, I literally just got done with making my own pcb design. Im going to get me some etching solution and copper board tomorrow and etch it. Ill put my design in the original post, just print it and do the toner transfer. It has my username in the design which you can change to your own if you'd like.

magic_man185 · « **Reply #7 on:** October 23, 2011, 06:19:05 PM »

I have a design also, I made it in ExpressPCB. I made the design with the resonator instead of the crystal with the two capacitors. Just a thought on using a cable instead of the connector, if the USB cable has a shield on it, try connecting the shield to ground in addition to the ground wire, that might help remove any interference and help the cable method to work. When I etch a board I am still going to try the wire method, cause as I said doing a connector will be a pain in the butt. As for the toner transfer, that is how I did the two boards that I have etched, but it is a real pain in the butt to get all of the toner to stick to the copper board. What kind of paper are you using to transfer? I just used some glossy photo paper, it released the toner really well, the problem is getting the toner to stick to the copper board.

Anonamous · « **Reply #8 on:** October 31, 2011, 04:26:33 PM »

Ok now for the main question. If I were to sell some of these in the BST section, how many people would be interested? I want to know before I buy in bulk

Also Magic Man, I used some photo paper and found that the non glossy side stuck to my iron when it got hot. So i printed on that side and tried it that was with a piece of normal paper in between my iron and the photo paper so i wouldnt get any crap on it. Anyway I found that the toner adheres quite well because the paper doesnt slide. My only problem now is i cant get the god damn paper off even after constantly soaking it in water :/

Rodent · « **Reply #9 on:** October 31, 2011, 04:27:10 PM »

I will take 2

Anonamous · « **Reply #10 on:** October 31, 2011, 04:30:13 PM »

Quote from: Rodent on October 31, 2011, 04:27:10 PM

I will take 2

wtf that was a quick reply. I havent made them yet though lol

Rodent · « **Reply #11 on:** October 31, 2011, 04:33:05 PM »

Quote from: Anonamous on October 31, 2011, 04:30:13 PM

wtf that was a quick reply. I havent made them yet though lol

Better get your @ss in gear then...lmfao ...

magic_man185 · « **Reply #12 on:** November 02, 2011, 02:20:35 PM »

Quote from: Anonamous on October 31, 2011, 04:26:33 PM

Ok now for the main question. If I were to sell some of these in the BST section, how many people would be interested? I want to know before I buy in bulk

Also Magic Man, I used some photo paper and found that the non glossy side stuck to my iron when it got hot. So i printed on that side and tried it that was with a piece of normal paper in between my iron and the photo paper so i wouldnt get any crap on it. Anyway I found that the toner adheres quite well because the paper doesnt slide. My only problem now is i cant get the god damn paper off even after constantly soaking it in water :/

That is the whole reason for using glossy paper, because the toner doesn't adhere as well it will come off of the paper after soaking in water. So it is kinda a catch 22 situation, if you use regular paper it adheres to the copper, but then you can't get the paper off, it you use glossy paper it will come off the paper, but it is hard to get it to stick to the copper.

Anonamous · « **Reply #13 on:** November 02, 2011, 07:37:21 PM »

Quote from: magic_man185 on November 02, 2011, 02:20:35 PM

That is the whole reason for using glossy paper, because the toner doesn't adhere as well it will come off of the paper after soaking in water. So it is kinda a catch 22 situation, if you use regular paper it adheres to the copper, but then you can't get the paper off, it you use glossy paper it will come off the paper, but it is hard to get it to stick to the copper.

i have been using the opposite side of the glossy paper because it sticks well. I recently discovered if you use a lower heat (medium) it sticks so that it wont budge but peels off with a little work. It comes off cleanly, and if you did it right the toner transfers very well. I got two good boards so far that way.

magic_man185 · « **Reply #14 on:** November 03, 2011, 06:39:14 AM »

Quote from: Anonamous on November 02, 2011, 07:37:21 PM

i have been using the opposite side of the glossy paper because it sticks well. I recently discovered if you use a lower heat (medium) it sticks so that it wont budge but peels off with a little work. It comes off cleanly, and if you did it right the toner transfers very well. I got two good boards so far that way.

But if you are using the non-glossy side of the paper, couldn't you just use regular paper then, since you aren't even using the glossy side?

Anonamous · « **Reply #15 on:** November 03, 2011, 08:21:47 AM »

Quote from: magic_man185 on November 03, 2011, 06:39:14 AM

But if you are using the non-glossy side of the paper, couldn't you just use regular paper then, since you aren't even using the glossy side?

whe i first used the glossy paper i printed on the glossy side and when i went to do the toner transfer the other side stucked to the iron. it was like it was superglued to it. So I tried printing on the other side and it stuck extremely good onto the circuit board instantaneously so thats what i did from there on. You could see the traces while scraping off the paper and they were perfect every single time but the problem was i couldnt get the paper off. But using lower heat gave me the best of both lol. Also, if you print on the back of glossy photo paper with an inkjet printer, the ink never dries or adheres. If you touch it, it will always smear. Because of that I assume that the toner does not fully adhere either, but I could be wrong.

EDIT: I will take a pic of the 2 pcb I etched yesterday that came out well. I just need to find my webcam lol.

hyper999 · « **Reply #16 on:** November 03, 2011, 10:17:16 AM »

Quote from: Anonamous on November 03, 2011, 08:21:47 AM

whe i first used the glossy paper i printed on the glossy side and when i went to do the toner transfer the other side stucked to the iron. it was like it was superglued to it. So I tried printing on the other side and it stuck extremely good onto the circuit board instantaneously so thats what i did from there on. You could see the traces while scraping off the paper and they were perfect every single time but the problem was i couldnt get the paper off. But using lower heat gave me the best of both lol. Also, if you print on the back of glossy photo paper with an inkjet printer, the ink never dries or adheres. If you touch it, it will always smear. Because of that I assume that the toner does not fully adhere either, but I could be wrong.

EDIT: I will take a pic of the 2 pcb I etched yesterday that came out well. I just need to find my webcam lol.

You sir, have tottally confused the

outta me, I have an inkjet printer and the ink will not smear if i print it on the glossy or the matt side of photo paper...? and the back of glossy paper sticks to stuff when you iron it? you have some wacky paper...

magic_man185 · « **Reply #17 on:** November 03, 2011, 10:30:59 AM »

Agreed, he must have the photo paper that has more of a plastic back, but I still wouldn't think the ink wouldn't stick to it. Regardless, even if it doesn't I don't think you can use an inkjet for this process, it has to be toner from a laser printer.

3D0kassiah · « **Reply #18 on:** November 03, 2011, 01:14:17 PM »

xbox experts sells them cheap and fast shipping bought on monday morning got it weds
24 dollars shipped with ribbon and a pack of 5 diodes 23$ without diodes
http://xbox-experts.com/stores_shop.php?id=8

unless your gonna sell them cheaper

works on the trinity board also dumped my nand already
will post pic of the install on the slim for the xbox experts usb nand

Anonamous · « **Reply #19 on:** November 03, 2011, 02:16:26 PM »

Quote from: edokassiah on November 03, 2011, 01:14:17 PM

xbox experts sells them cheap and fast shipping bought on monday morning got it weds
24 dollars shipped with ribbon and a pack of 5 diodes 23$ without diodes
http://xbox-experts.com/stores_shop.php?id=8

unless your gonna sell them cheaper

works on the trinity board also dumped my nand already
will post pic of the install on the slim for the xbox experts usb nand

it is the same exact thing as there is here.

Does it have status leds for reading and writing/erasing? Mine do :P

3D0kassiah · « **Reply #20 on:** November 03, 2011, 07:33:58 PM »

Quote from: Anonamous on November 03, 2011, 02:16:26 PM

it is the same exact thing as there is here.

Does it have status leds for reading and writing/erasing? Mine do :P

not saying anything bad just saying people dont wanna spend 40 bucks for a nand x when these alternatives do the exact same thing
no no led but the software i use will let me know if i didnt install it right
how much you selling yours for?
but since urs has leds ill buy one or 2 in case i lose one lol

Anonamous · « **Reply #21 on:** November 04, 2011, 08:33:43 AM »

Quote from: edokassiah on November 03, 2011, 07:33:58 PM

not saying anything bad just saying people dont wanna spend 40 bucks for a nand x when these alternatives do the exact same thing
no no led but the software i use will let me know if i didnt install it right
how much you selling yours for?
but since urs has leds ill buy one or 2 in case i lose one lol

who in their right mind would pay 40 usd for one. lol They would be between 15-20 USD each. And what you linked to is almost the exact same thing except it is professionally made.

Anonamous · « **Reply #22 on:** November 05, 2011, 11:45:32 AM »

Here are the pics of the two boards I have already made. Also, I just ordered enough pats for five boards.

I ran out of desoldering braid while tinning that board, so the darker spots you see on the traces is just unlevel solder.

Rodent · « **Reply #23 on:** November 05, 2011, 05:39:10 PM »

Those dont say Rodent on them ....

j/k nice work looks good so far.

Anonamous · « **Reply #24 on:** November 05, 2011, 08:23:28 PM »

Quote from: Rodent on November 05, 2011, 05:39:10 PM

Those dont say Rodent on them .... j/k nice work looks good so far.

My plan was originally to do that. Unfortunately I don't have a laser printer of my own to just change the design. I have been printing them out during class and I can only do it during my computer aided circuit analysis class lol

3D0kassiah · « **Reply #25 on:** November 08, 2011, 06:31:18 PM »

coming along good
cant wait to see final product
will order 1

Anonamous · « **Reply #26 on:** November 08, 2011, 08:18:39 PM »

Quote from: edokassiah on November 08, 2011, 06:31:18 PM

coming along good
cant wait to see final product
will order 1

cool. The components were shipped earlier today. Should be receiving them in 2-3 days.

EDIT: I have already completed 2 boards. However, they will not be sold yet until I get the drill bits so I can add the board 2 board connectors.

rook0316 · « **Reply #27 on:** November 15, 2011, 12:00:14 PM »

I have built this flasher and programmed the chip. I am having a few issues with it.

What version of NandPro is the preferred version to use.
When using NandPro3, I receive the message - Flash controller not found.

[li]Also, when connecting the flasher to the ground point on J2B1, the flasher is not detected in Windows. If I connect it to the other ground point, Windows has no problem seeing the flasher.
[/li][/list]

I do not have any shorts/opens.

Hoping someone can give me some guidance.

Anonamous · « **Reply #28 on:** November 16, 2011, 11:01:19 AM »

Quote from: rook0316 on November 15, 2011, 12:00:14 PM

I have built this flasher and programmed the chip. I am having a few issues with it.

What version of NandPro is the preferred version to use.
When using NandPro3, I receive the message - Flash controller not found.
[li]Also, when connecting the flasher to the ground point on J2B1, the flasher is not detected in Windows. If I connect it to the other ground point, Windows has no problem seeing the flasher.
[/li][/list]

I do not have any shorts/opens.

Hoping someone can give me some guidance.

Nandpro30 isnt working for me either. nandpro20a and nandpro20e both work for this. Hopefully somebody will redo the firmware to make it compatible with nandpro30

Rodent · « **Reply #29 on:** November 16, 2011, 11:36:04 AM »

so which nandpro do i use?

Anonamous · « **Reply #30 on:** November 16, 2011, 11:59:43 AM »

Quote from: Rodent on November 16, 2011, 11:36:04 AM

so which nandpro do i use?

nandpro20a or nandpro20e

nandpro20e link

Modded Matt · « **Reply #31 on:** November 16, 2011, 03:13:24 PM »

make sure when giving commands you are directing your command to the correct program. IE:

C:\Nandpro20b\nandpro.exe lpt: -r16 nand1.bin

that command is outdated, change "Nandpro20b" to Nandpro20e

Rodent · « **Reply #32 on:** November 16, 2011, 03:15:35 PM »

Quote from: modded matt on November 16, 2011, 03:13:24 PM

make sure when giving commands you are directing your command to the correct program. IE:

C:\Nandpro20b\nandpro.exe lpt: -r16 nand1.bin

that command is outdated, change "Nandpro20b" to Nandpro20e

what if your using USB?

Modded Matt · « **Reply #33 on:** November 16, 2011, 03:17:42 PM »

Quote from: Rodent on November 16, 2011, 03:15:35 PM

what if your using USB?

then change it to:

C:\Nandpro20e\nandpro.exe usb: -r16 nand1.bin

thevipper · « **Reply #34 on:** November 16, 2011, 03:31:10 PM »

ok i have read this but 1 thing i am stumped on lol ok so this is suppose to be like a nandx right so do i use the nandx software/driver or what ever it's called on this still a noob lol just trying to learn also would this be able to program the coolruner reset glitch board

Anonamous · « **Reply #35 on:** November 16, 2011, 08:29:12 PM »

you use the drivers that are located in the nandpro folder (its libusb or something like that) no it will not be able to program the coolruner board. This was designed and made before the reset glitch hack was released.

thevipper · « **Reply #36 on:** November 16, 2011, 11:44:46 PM »

oh ok guess ill have to do the 40 bucks lol guess i could look at the whole price to do it myself then get a modder for hire quote lol yes im lazy most of the time lol

magic_man185 · « **Reply #37 on:** November 22, 2011, 08:54:36 PM »

What are the connections on pins 2 and 3 on your board for? These are not in the original schematic.

Rodent · « **Reply #38 on:** November 23, 2011, 04:09:32 AM »

Thanks Anonamous, the 2 usb nand flashers you sent me both work great! wired it to ethernet cable like crazy-modder has and works everytime. pretty plain and simple on the wireing diagram

Anonamous · « **Reply #39 on:** November 23, 2011, 11:17:28 AM »

Quote from: magic_man185 on November 22, 2011, 08:54:36 PM

What are the connections on pins 2 and 3 on your board for? These are not in the original schematic.

read and write led's

magic_man185 · « **Reply #40 on:** November 23, 2011, 11:56:40 AM »

The schematic doesn't show anything about read/write leds, how did you add them?

Anonamous · « **Reply #41 on:** November 23, 2011, 12:19:30 PM »

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=TCB0VJ45

in there is the image and the hex file.

Enter the bootloader and program that hex file on instead.

magic_man185 · « **Reply #42 on:** November 23, 2011, 12:35:01 PM »

Cool, very interesting, how did you find that? Was that just somewhere in the 50+ pages at XboxHacker?

Anonamous · « **Reply #43 on:** November 23, 2011, 12:56:10 PM »

Quote from: magic_man185 on November 23, 2011, 12:35:01 PM

Cool, very interesting, how did you find that? Was that just somewhere in the 50+ pages at XboxHacker?

yea it was lol

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Author Topic: XBOX360 spi/usb flasher by darkstar (Read 28144 times)