Input for the xbox one controller rapid fire

[3lite117]

If any one has started to attempt this feel free to shed some light on it

[Modded Matt]

Its a CG. our rapid fire chips may work with little modification.

[stuee]

i have seen a couple of things come to market already so its possible.. and for ps4 controllers too.

[SethMods]

Anybody know the tie-in points for the triggers?

[jaredb03]

Anybody know the tie-in points for the triggers?

Been trying to find them but coming up empty. I think the sensor is magnetic.

[Rodent]

got any better pics? 

[SethMods]

This is where I think they are.






Here are some better pics.

[3lite117]

Hey seth are you going for a 12f683 install? Ive also been stuck on those trigger inputs...

[SethMods]

Yeah, 12f683.

What have you tried so far?

[3lite117]

Havnt actually wired it up as yet, my skills to figure out what goes where are not that great 8( yet i can basically wire anything up lol

[SethMods]

I'm sure I'm going to look like an idiot later(yep!), but here goes anyway.

It does look like those two points are the correct points(maybe not the best points to use). The triggers look to be using Hall Effect Sensors instead of the old potentiometers from the XBox360. The voltage with the triggers at rest is .25V and around .10V when the triggers are pulled.(nope!)

From my little bit of playing around I was able to drive them low(to fire) and drive them high(to release) with no problems.

So (in my mind) any voltage less than say .20V for instance would constitute a trigger pull, and then you can drive the triggers high or low just like before.(Wrong, wrong, wrong, wrong. Wrong, wrong, wrong, wrong. WRONG. WRONG. WRONG. WRONG. -Dr. Cox on Scrubs)

[3lite117]

Sounds good! Id imagine we would have to add an led for an indicator also, im sure we can still use the sync button for a switch? Where the solder point would be the trace end (black dot) up to the right of the right button on the dpad

[lecrack65]

hello all
you know how the xbox one controller is opened

[SethMods]

hello all
you know how the xbox one controller is opened

???

[lecrack65]

I do not know how to open my controller xboxone
how to open

[SethMods]

Xbox One Controller teardown, disassembly, LED Swap of X1

Disclaimer: I found this on Youtube. It's not mine.

[lecrack65]

yes thank you

[geekonaut]

The triggers are not the potentiometer types they were on the 360. These are actively driven by a hall effect sensor. I've read where grounding the hall effect sensor's output "triggers" the trigger. (Haha) This could easily be mimicked by setting a micro pin as an input so the pin is floating to not affect the circuit for not triggered and setting the pin as an output and low to trigger. I'm working on something like this, but rarely have time these days. I hope this information gets you all going.

[SethMods]

Yeah, that's the direction we are working. Let us know if you find anything else out.

[likemike]

Hello, thanks for accepting me into the forum. I have been working on mods for a while and hope I can help and learn. I have a xbox one controller apart. Yes part labeled 303 is a hall effect. I just a jumper wire from the output to input and got it to shoot. I am still working on the rapid fire portion.

[SethMods]

If anyone else out there is struggling with mods for the XB1 Controller, here are some screenshots of the signaling that happens with the triggers.

Trigger Released




Trigger Half-Pulled




Trigger Pulled



First, I have to thank RDC. He was patient and broke it down for me on how all of this worked. The guy is a genius!!!


Second, Blue represents the Hall Sensor getting powered up for about 1.5ms every 8ms frame. Yellow represents the output from the sensor.

Blue peaks at 3.22V while Yellow peaks at 1.48V when the trigger is completely released and 0.42V when the trigger is completely pulled.
NOTE: As RDC mentions below the 1.48V that you see here should be higher(1.65V), but with the controller assembled the triggers don't release all the way to show that.

Also, just a note that these were done with a pretty cheap oscilloscope(DSO Quad) so they probably aren't as accurate as a nicer scope would produce.

I think the last bit of information is that both triggers are powered up and read at the same time. So even though this was specifically pulled from the RT, the LT looks identical.

I hope this helps others out there.

[1TONpete]

Reminds me of ps3 sticks....
has anyone tried installing a cg mod yet?

[SethMods]

I have been trying for the last week or so, but I have not been successful. I think it mostly stems from me trying to modify my 360 code instead of starting from scratch.

[rafaliyo86]

Hi guys

I don´t know anything about codes but I want to "contribute" with a kind of info. Here in my country there is a guy who sells XB1 controllers with rapid fire. He uses a chip with 73 modes, I think he buys it on ebay becuase I have seen this kind of chips there(with a lot of modes)

I say all this becuase I think this code is the same for XBOX360 and XB1 controllers. Here is the vid of the controller (I you need it I can translate what you want):

Mando Xtreme Turbo/Rápid Fire Xbox One

[1TONpete]

I repeat has anyone tried a current working code say flex and wired it for cg? I dont have an xbox one controller to test but I have many cg compatable chips, including a ragnarok.

[rafaliyo86]

I don´t have xbox one but I am going to buy a controller to try

[SethMods]

1TONpete, I can almost guarantee it won't work. Because the triggers are pulsed on the XB1 you can only read the trigger values at certain times. It's completely different from how any of the X360 triggers worked in that regard. Without syncing your mod to the controller, there is no telling what value you will be getting when you try to read the triggers. Also, with X360 controllers on a CG the triggers go from low to high as the triggers are pulled. Here they go from high to low.

My own code failed miserably even after I reversed the polarity of the triggers. Because the dead part of the frame looks like the trigger is being pulled, and so my mod just auto-fires all the time.

Also rafaliyo86 the triggers don't even power up until the controller is sync'd to a console. So without a console you can't even play around and test voltages and what not.

I hope this helps.

[1TONpete]

when I was playing w hall sensors last it was when I was messing with ps3 sticks a ways back. ps3 halls had 4 wire connection. the two middle pins where outputs one for each direction the stick would travel. to read these you need to be reading both pins. example push up on right stick would put a high value on one pin and a low on the other. then when pushed the opposite way that v would swing equally and proportionately till zero where the pins have equal v. then they would switch as they passed the axis. the other side would be high and high side would go low.
I don't know if that is how xbox does it but it might help.

[SethMods]

For XB1 I think it is a little simpler. The Hall has three pins Vdd, Vss, and Vout.

Vss is always tied to ground. Vdd is powered up every 8ms or so for about 1.5ms long. And then Vout is proportional to the trigger pull. (...but only when the Hall is actually powered.)

...as can be seen above in the screen captures.

[Hazer]

So, what we have here is a Hall sensor that has a powered analog output, that swings from high when 'released' to low when 'pulled'.

XB360 triggers were pots, so it was easy to overide. Hall sensors are analog outputs, they are meant to source current to provide as accurate an output voltage as possible. The pulsing is simply a way to save battery life, it has nothing to do with manipulating the signal.

So your problem is this: How to force a 'pulled' trigger back to a high voltage (1.5V). The sensor will not happily let you do this like with the resistive triggers.

OK. I am working directly from these pictures and videos, I am going to do some major guessing here. U10 and U11 look purely like transistors. They are powering the RC filter that RDC mentions. This them turns the RT and LT inputs to 1.5V. Those rectangular ICs look like the Hall effect. What is funny is that those ICs do not have solderpds. Which would be fine since these are magentic ICs anyway. The RT and LT PCB trace goes directly underneath these. I am guessing that there are permanent magnets in the triggers, and coupled with these ICs (seen as MYLAR in the bare PCB scans) then nullify the current passing underneath them as it goes to the main IC analog inputs.

In order to pull the voltage high again, you could try dumping 1.5V onto the RT/LT lines. This may be bad for the circuit though. Using resistor to buffer it would help. Another way to get this done would be to cut the trace and run it through an analog switch where you can switch from one input (the actual RT line) to another (permanent 1.5V). This would not be ideal, but it would get the job done much cleaner.

So the question is, has anyone tried forcing Vdd onto the RT line yet with the trigger pulled?