Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1698 "Elite" (Read 34630 times)

aakers369 · « **Reply #60 on:** November 11, 2021, 03:23:43 PM »

Hey trying to revive this old thread! I'm having a hell of a time trying to get my "B" button and "RS" click to work.. I've spent an eternity over the magnifying glass and cant seem to come up with anything.. on MCU board bottom is there supposed to be something clipped into "CR1" (top left)? Any info would be greatly appreciated, I've replaced the analog still to no avail. All other functions of said analog work properly though, left/right/up/down.. Someone please shed some light!

RDC · « **Reply #61 on:** November 12, 2021, 04:03:22 AM »

CR1 is not used.

Both B and RSC run pretty much straight to the MCU. I could possibly see some traces or thru hole plating getting knackered up causing RSC not to work, but there would be pretty obvious signs of it if that's also what was causing B to not work.

That MCU is a BGA chip, and all kinds of funk can be going on under there causing issues. Try giving the BGA chip a good cleaning underneath, just use rubbing alcohol and compressed air and hit it from all 4 sides one at a time, and see if anything changes. If not, then reflowing it might straighten things out, though I'd still look it over more than a few times for any more obvious signs of damage before going that route.

tweaq · « **Reply #62 on:** December 14, 2021, 04:55:18 PM »

Could anyone tell me the value of C24? Also, D16 isn't listed on your schematic, RDC. I fudged and ruined/lost R32, C24 and D16. I hoping that is the cause of my -100% X on the left joystick.
Also, RDC you are crazy awesome and we love you

RDC · « **Reply #63 on:** December 14, 2021, 05:25:53 PM »

If you really loved me you'd pay, attention.

The schematic there is the Button/Power board only, the top board, and you are talking about MCU board issues and parts, the bottom board. There technically is a D16 on the top board, but it's not installed, so no real reason for it to be in the schematic.

D16 is not required for the controller to work, it's just a surge protection thing.

C24 is 100nF and not critical for it to work.

Not sure what R32 missing would do, it's not near D16 and C24, R34 is though, so not sure if that's a typo or the actual missing component? Regardless R32 is 0 ohms, R34 is 1k. R34 missing would make the LSX line float and would act all weird.

tweaq · « **Reply #64 on:** December 14, 2021, 05:41:01 PM »

Aww damnit. Reading comprehension

yes, I meant R34. Thank you. Hopefully, I can bring this stupid thing back to life, after i ruined it.

semi389 · « **Reply #65 on:** January 25, 2022, 07:45:25 PM »

D15, D23, D24, D26, C26, C27, C39

I'm looking to see if it's possible to buy diodes and capacitors.

What is the type of diode and the capacity of the capacitor?

Qball · « **Reply #66 on:** January 30, 2022, 04:59:08 PM »

Is the LED light needed to make the board function?? I have one where it USB doesn't seem to work and nor do batteries and the only issue appears to be missing the LED light. I tested by trying to sync since you know the xbox logo on the xbox it self will change it flash pattern

RDC · « **Reply #67 on:** January 30, 2022, 05:12:09 PM »

LED is just for visual feedback, it has no bearing at all on the controller working or not.

jony954 · « **Reply #68 on:** August 22, 2022, 05:06:09 AM »

Hello !

I have an elite 1 controller with a left analog stick drifting. First thouhgt i replaced the analog with a new one and wired between pins and testing points.

It works for temporarily but after i tested it a little bit while, it start drifting again and now it's competely drifting to the up.

The tester still shows that i can move left and right, but down is no response.

I use multimeter to measure the voltage of LSY, LSX, AN+, and LSC. AN+ shows 1.8V so it's normal. LSC shows 0V. LSY only shows 0.03V, i think it's a bit to low but it's the reason that the controller drifts, right ?

I don't have any idea how to repair it now. Mayby try to put a new one in it ? Do anyone have idea what to do next ?

RDC · « **Reply #69 on:** August 22, 2022, 06:12:34 AM »

If that is not enameled wire (magnet wire) then it's going to short on everything else that it's touching in there as it has no insulation.

jony954 · « **Reply #70 on:** August 22, 2022, 06:57:12 AM »

Thanks for fast reply!

Yes, they are enameled wires. Besides, I put the electrical tapes to prevent short. ( I removed them just for clear pictures). I also used multimeter to test any bridge wires, so I am quite sure I can rule out the shorts.

Any idea what should I do next?

RDC · « **Reply #71 on:** August 22, 2022, 07:26:38 AM »

The stick going up all the way like that I'd make sure the LSY line is not shorted to ground and then make sure that the 1.8v is at the LSY POT. Either of those issues could cause it to be up all the way. Same for the LSX, if it's shorted to ground it's going to go full left, or if it has no 1.8v it's going to go full left.

After that, could be shorted caps on the LSX/LSY lines, but for both to fail same time would be rare, or there could be an issue with the MCU, but again for 2 lines to fail same time is odd, so I'd be suspect of the POTs not getting power first.

jony954 · « **Reply #72 on:** August 22, 2022, 07:34:43 AM »

I see. Thanks for the advise. I will check these possible and give a update tomorrow!

jony954 · « **Reply #73 on:** August 23, 2022, 01:25:10 AM »

Hello ! After checking LSY, I think there is a short. There is only 400ohms between LSY and ground, but i think the normal value should be around 3k ohms right (there are 3k ohms bwtween LSX and gound )?

you mentioned about the possibility of shorted caps on the LSX or LSY lines. Could it be the problem on LSY line ? how can i test it ?

RDC · « **Reply #74 on:** August 23, 2022, 05:23:10 AM »

400ohms isn't close to a short but it's too low. Remove the stick, or at least the Y POT and check the LSY line again. If it's still 400ohms, suspect C22, D15, an issue on the trace somewhere or the MCU.

jony954 · « **Reply #75 on:** August 24, 2022, 06:25:14 AM »

thanks ! after revome D15, the drift is gone ! BUT....there is another problem appears...

Now VW bottom is not working, and RB is keep pressing.

I think there might be someting wrong on the power board because during testing the MCU board, there are different problems showed on the tester : first, Y bottom kept pressing. After clear the power board, Y bottom funtion normally. Instead, logo bottom kept pressing.

After several teardown and assemble two boards, Logo bottom is normal now but VW is not responding anymore. So i tried the same way: dissembled and assembled two board....but now not only VW is not working, RB is keep pressing.

Any idea what is going on

RDC · « **Reply #76 on:** August 24, 2022, 01:31:04 PM »

Check all of the solder joints on the 4 connectors between the two boards. I've seen those entire connectors get pulled off the board before, so could be some cold joints there making buttons not work or a cracked trace. Also seen the MCU need to be reflowed on that version board to fix some issues.

jony954 · « **Reply #77 on:** August 25, 2022, 05:16:05 AM »

I checked those 4 connectors and resoldered them to avoid any cold joints, but the problem is the same.

But this time i think there might be some signs of chip/power issue.

First, the malfunction bottoms seems random. Sometime VW is not working, sometime RB is keep pressing. Now the down of D-pad is not working. Sometime these bottoms work again.

Second, there were a time the logo bottom light up, but my computer didn't recognize it. I tried to use xbox accessory app to see what happened. When i plugged in, there is a split of second app recognizing the controller, then losing the controller. After trying several pluging and unpluging, restart the computer, now it recognizes the controller again.

I think these two symptoms are related and indicate that some components or chips on the board are bad.
Maybe you're right, MCU need to be reflowed !

I am still working on it.

bumblebee · « **Reply #78 on:** September 21, 2022, 03:31:35 AM »

Hi I have a problem with my elite controller the the Bluetooth search button doesn't work how can I fix it, and those shortcuts you use can I what's shortness of and thx in advance

Memph1s · « **Reply #79 on:** October 23, 2022, 06:12:54 PM »

Hello everyone. I've read all entries for availiable controller revisions but still no luck or solution with my problem. RDC, thx for all the hard work. It's a very usefull info you got here. I'd like to ask some help to bring back to life 1698. At the begininng it was in a "always blinking" state with USB and with AA. After some manipulations i've managed to get power board and MCU to work but there are no signs of life in both analogs and both triggers and it is still blinking with AA. B button, R3 and L3 are working correctly. After inspection in microscope i found out that U8 was cracked. I've got a couple of 1537 donor boards, so i resolder U8 and still no luck. RDC, could you give me any directions? Thx in advance

RDC · « **Reply #80 on:** October 23, 2022, 06:21:06 PM »

Reflow U1 on the bottom board.

Memph1s · « **Reply #81 on:** October 24, 2022, 05:33:37 PM »

Quote from: RDC on October 23, 2022, 06:21:06 PM

Reflow U1 on the bottom board.

Thx for the tip, but from the look of it i messed it all up. Tried to reflow - no success. Controller just showing me now a very dim light without regonition via PC. Tried to reball - same thing. Everything else looks intact. Im thinking to give this one another last try and let it go. Five days it's really too much for this thing.

alexzai89 · « **Reply #82 on:** March 01, 2023, 12:36:50 AM »

Hi, want to know if anyone know what the value of the C25 capacitor just below the right stick??
I accidently knock it off when i replacing the right stick and the capacitor went missing after that.
i tried using some random same size capacitor but the stick default position went slightly below the center.

RDC · « **Reply #83 on:** March 01, 2023, 07:40:56 AM »

alexzai89 · « **Reply #84 on:** March 01, 2023, 07:57:18 AM »

Quote from: RDC on March 01, 2023, 07:40:56 AM

10nF

thanks for the reply.

RDC · « **Reply #85 on:** March 01, 2023, 08:25:55 AM »

Welcome.

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1698 "Elite" (Read 34630 times)