XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537

[blinkerss]

See the above post about R34/R35.

yes I've read your comment about the importance position of R34 and R35     

Each of those Caps have 2 connections, one side being ground, and no idea how you 'shorted' those together, so you may have something shorted to ground. Already said that I wouldn't do the U3/U2 thing, unless you pull Q10 first so the Rumble circuit gets no power.

please check the image of the point where i shorted it, and i've check it with DMM,  the voltage line is okay and no shorted to the ground, but i dont check the exact value of the voltage

and i already disconnect all 4 vibrator, but i dont remove the Q10

i think i've just wait the mp3414 replacement to arrive

thanks anyway RDC! 

[RDC]

Yeah those are the right spots. It's either too much of a load or there's another issue somewhere.

[blinkerss]

confirmed: i've switched the position of R34 and R35 , but when i try to swithed it back, obviously one of the super duper extra tiny resistor is missing, the 190k one.

what type is this resistor?, and if i'm try to used one of the resistor from unused U1 circuit, R17 100k, what will happen?, i'm assumed the output voltage from U3 must be higher than 3.3v, since the voltage divider value is getting higher if I'm using 100k as R35 (90K lower than the original value 190k)

thanks RDC

[KeptWolf769]

My Model 1537 was having vertical stick drift on my left stick so I attempted replacing the Y potentiometer but now it?s on 100% vertical and moves between 20 and 75 when I touch all 3 pins. Is there something I did wrong? All through holes are still in good shape and I think I soldered it well. Can anyone help me.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0e4Z63MrKDDTeR9_TtPlXGI7Q
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b12vKpWraH4rQ51JHjWttRKQ

[RDC]

@ blinkerss - The voltage output value will be off. Look thru the Datasheet for the chip if you want to know what it will be exactly, but it's not going to work that way either. You need a 190k 1% or better value Resistor there.


@ KeptWolf769 - Stick up full is either the Axis line shorted to ground, or there is no voltage going to the POT for that Axis. Since the soldering looks good, could be you buggered the wiper or alignment when installing the new POT, or the trace for AN+ (power) to that POT is broken. Make sure the POT moves when the stick does first, and if it does, then try putting a jumper wire in and connecting the red spots together and see if that does anything.

[KeptWolf769]

@ blinkerss - The voltage output value will be off. Look thru the Datasheet for the chip if you want to know what it will be exactly, but it's not going to work that way either. You need a 190k 1% or better value Resistor there.


@ KeptWolf769 - Stick up full is either the Axis line shorted to ground, or there is no voltage going to the POT for that Axis. Since the soldering looks good, could be you buggered the wiper or alignment when installing the new POT, or the trace for AN+ (power) to that POT is broken. Make sure the POT moves when the stick does first, and if it does, then try putting a jumper wire in and connecting the red spots together and see if that does anything.

This was very helpful. The potentiometer itself was the problem so I replaced it and its now working perfectly.

[ZhenyaKa]

Is it MCU MP3414?

It have ACMK letters

[RDC]

Look in the MP3414 datasheet.

[ZhenyaKa]

Look in the MP3414 datasheet.

(340/195+1)*1,21 = 3,319743589744V

Last letter differs, but connection diagram and calculation of R-divider okay

[ZhenyaKa]

As I understood this step-up DC-DC. Increase voltage from 3V (R6 bats) to 3.3V. But XB1 doesn't works via USB cable too

[ZhenyaKa]

Sorry! I find your shematics Thanks a lot for it

[RDC]

Last letter is the Year of manufacture, so it's not going to be a Y on all of them.

It's also not going to power up on USB with that chip fried. U3 makes the 3.3v that most of the controller uses. U2 powers the LED and Rumble motors. U1 steps down the USB 5v to 3v for U3 to use.

[ZhenyaKa]

Last letter is the Year of manufacture, so it's not going to be a Y on all of them.

It's also not going to power up on USB with that chip fried. U3 makes the 3.3v that most of the controller uses. U2 powers the LED and Rumble motors. U1 steps down the USB 5v to 3v for U3 to use.

I've tested voltage: at TP7 - 3.5V is okay, but at batteries contacts 4.38V instead 3V.

MP2161 is dead too?

[RDC]

Check TP11 for U1 Output, not the AA contacts.

[ZhenyaKa]

Check TP11 for U1 Output, not the AA contacts.

it's okay at TP11. I understood why at AA have 4+V

Voltage goes this way

[RDC]

Path is thru R21, not R19. DNI means Do No Install, so there is no Resistor there.

[Raph]

Hi, I'm new here so sorry if I'm not very precise in my explanations.
I have a question to ask you, I recently collected the controller (Xbox One model 1537) from a member of my family to repair it for him.
His controller had the rb button that didn't work. So I opened it, but upon opening it I realized that the batteries had leaked (mainly on the two pins in contact with the batteries which are soldered to the motherboard), so I cleaned the controller. Then I tested the button because given that the RB solders are next to the pins for the batteries, I told myself that it was perhaps just a dirt problem. However, the button still did not work so I launched into a series of tests to repair the button. I replaced the rb button with a new one (it still didn't work), I tried to recover a button from one of my old xbox 360 controllers (it still didn't work) so I told myself that the Oxidation may have damaged the motherboard so I unsoldered the pin for the batteries closest to RB in order to clean it and clean the motherboard, it still didn't work. I'm starting to get a little desperate and the motherboard is starting to get tired from soldering and unsoldering. I also tried removing the green protective layer from the motherboard in the rb area to see if the copper was attacked but it wasn't. I've been trying to fix it for two weeks now but I don't know what else to do. If you have an idea, I'm interested. There is also an interesting thing to point out, which is that I resoldered the original rb button of the xbox one controller on one of my xbox 360 controllers, the rb button worked. So the original button was not defective.Thank you in advance for your answers.
Raph

[ZhenyaKa]

Hi, I'm new here so sorry if I'm not very precise in my explanations.
I have a question to ask you, I recently collected the controller (Xbox One model 1537) from a member of my family to repair it for him.
His controller had the rb button that didn't work. So I opened it, but upon opening it I realized that the batteries had leaked (mainly on the two pins in contact with the batteries which are soldered to the motherboard), so I cleaned the controller. Then I tested the button because given that the RB solders are next to the pins for the batteries, I told myself that it was perhaps just a dirt problem. However, the button still did not work so I launched into a series of tests to repair the button. I replaced the rb button with a new one (it still didn't work), I tried to recover a button from one of my old xbox 360 controllers (it still didn't work) so I told myself that the Oxidation may have damaged the motherboard so I unsoldered the pin for the batteries closest to RB in order to clean it and clean the motherboard, it still didn't work. I'm starting to get a little desperate and the motherboard is starting to get tired from soldering and unsoldering. I also tried removing the green protective layer from the motherboard in the rb area to see if the copper was attacked but it wasn't. I've been trying to fix it for two weeks now but I don't know what else to do. If you have an idea, I'm interested. There is also an interesting thing to point out, which is that I resoldered the original rb button of the xbox one controller on one of my xbox 360 controllers, the rb button worked. So the original button was not defective.Thank you in advance for your answers.
Raph

Check pulldown resistor, check wire from button to connector, check soldering of connector at both sides. You can connect buttons contacts without desoldering it using tweezers to check it. In the firstt message in this topic lines marked magenta and pink color.

[RDC]

There is no pulldown Resistor on active Lo buttons.

[Raph]

Thank you for your answers, I will check this later. I have another quick question, do you know what the use of C29 and D3 is and are they essential because maybe they are the ones who are damaged. So maybe I could make a diversion to avoid going through them.
It seems to me that there was a similar question in an old post but I would like to have your opinion in this specific case.

[RDC]

Just a Capacitor and a TVS Diode. If either of those were shorted, RB would act like it was pressed all the time. If they failed open, RB would still work normally.

[ZhenyaKa]

There is no pulldown Resistor on active Lo buttons.

Is this diode?

[RDC]

That's on the LB line, not RB, and it's for a Diode, not a Resistor, and it's not installed from the factory.

[ZhenyaKa]

That's on the LB line, not RB, and it's for a Diode, not a Resistor, and it's not installed from the factory.

LB RB no difference. They are the same

My mistake about resistor

[RDC]

LB RB no difference. They are the same

Except for the fact they are different, and he has an issue with RB. There is noting that could be done to the LB line that would make RB work again.

[ZhenyaKa]

Except for the fact they are different, and he has an issue with RB. There is noting that could be done to the LB line that would make RB work again.

I meant that they are schematically the same and the health check of these buttons is the same

[rubs]

Hi, I've just got a 1537 controller. Everything works when wired. On the batteries, it turns on but doesn't pair with the Xbox.
From where can I start looking?

[Raph]

Hello, thanks for your answers RDC and ZhenyaKa.
Rubs, whats the model of your Xbox ?

[rubs]

Hello, thanks for your answers RDC and ZhenyaKa.
Rubs, whats the model of your Xbox ?

Hi Raph! My Xbox is an One S. I've tried another 1537 controller and it worked just fine. But this one doesn't pair.

[Raph]

Hi, thank you for your response, I think the problem actually comes from the wireless module of your controller. Indeed, it seems to me that the 1537 models do not have bluetooth. If I'm not mistaken, they work wirelessly using radio waves as was the case on the Xbox 360. For my part, I connected a Day One 2013 controller to an Xbox One S and it worked. I also connected a classic 1537 controller to an Xbox Series X and it worked. So I suggest you look at which part of the controller handles the wireless connectivity and try to either repair it or change it.
Last question, have you already taken this controller apart or not yet?