miniM4pper, Tact switch remapping

[RDC]

I designed this up a little while back after seeing a controller with a pile of dip switches in it for remapping the 4 new Tact switches that were installed to any order of the ABXY buttons. While admiring that tenacity to do it via hardware, there was no way I'd want to have to deal with flipping those things, plus the wiring and diode mess, so I decided to see about making something up for that instead using a PIC.

This is nothing new, just my version of it.

Thus the idea for the minM4pper started. It originally was just going to be for the CG version controllers only, but the Wired CL worked it's way in there before it was all said and done.

FEATURES

The miniM4pper is a miniature Remap option for the Wired CL and Wireless CG, CG2 and CG3 version controllers. The Wired and Wireless Matrix version controllers are not supported. It can not Remap the existing buttons that are already on the controller, it has nothing to do with the Triggers at all and does no kind of cRapid Fire at all. What it can do is Remap 2, 3 or 4 additional Tact switch Buttons that can be installed on the controller to any of up to 8 buttons in the controller. The typical 8 being A, B, X, Y, LB, RB, LSC and RSC.

If you want 4 Tact buttons installed and want to duplicate A, B, X and Y on them you can, and in any order you choose.

If you only want to have 2 additional Tact Buttons to use instead of all 4, you can do that. (Use Tact 1 and Tact 2 in this case)

If you want a Tact button that will press A, B and RB all at the same time when you press it, then it can do that also.

If you want 4 Tact buttons that are all A one day, then all RB the next, go for it. (makes button mashing pretty easy)

It also saves the Button Remaps you choose and stores them, so if the power is removed or controller unplugged, you don't have to set everything back up again every time you want to use it.

So off started the testing. The CL and CG2 controllers wired up with a DIP socket for testing code.



After getting things all working on the test controllers, it was time to move to a smaller package IC and making a PCB for that. This was the CG only version of the board before the CL decided to get added in.





After the CL was added there needed to be a Regulator added for that thing, so the board was redone.





Then after finding a nasty bug on the CL side of things with that smaller package IC as well as code, that didn't exist on the test setup, so it was a pain to get figured out, then everything was good to go.



The board went thru one final revision change so there was a Ground spot for the Tact switches and the CL/CG install jumper was made easier to use, versus a wire that needed to be installed for it before.





I'd have more pics of the install, and a video of it remapping, but never managed to get around to doing those for it, but I made it pretty painless..


INSTALLATION FOR WIRED CL VERSION CONTROLLER

miniM4pper pad - CL Controller board

CG+ - Do Not Connect
GND - Ground, TP102 (marking is on top of board, but wire can be soldered to bottom, or any Ground spot on the board)
CL+ - 5v on the controller, TP28
ON - Switched Power, TP5
D or LED - LED-, TP24 for LED3 or TP26 for LED4, or can use a separate LED
G - Do Not Connect *
G/L - Do Not Connect *
RB - Right Bumper, Via directly under the T at TP44 recommended
LB - Left Bumper, Solder Joint at LB recommended
RC - Right Stick Click, TP30
LC - Left Stick Click, TP31
Y - Y Button, TP38
TG - Tact Ground, Common Connection for the Tact Buttons. Alternately can use any Ground spot on the controller for them.
T4 - Tact Button #4 **
T3 - Tact Button #3 **
T2 - Tact Button #2
T1 - Tact Button #1
X - X Button, TP44
B - B Button, TP43
A - A Button, TP39
MD - Mode button. Back button is recommended, TP41, can also use a separate Tact switch if desired ***


* The G and G/L pads are for a Wireless CG Install. If there is a solder bridge between these 2 points and you are installing this on a Wired CL controller that solder bridge must be removed.

** Tact 3 and Tact 4 are optional to install, but Tact 1 and Tact 2 must be installed for correct use.

*** If a separate Tact is going to be used for Mode, a 10k Resistor needs to be installed from Mode to Ground. Then the Mode Tact will be wired up to the Mode and CG+ pads, or Mode and TP37.

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INSTALLATION WIRELESS CG, CG2 and CG3 VERSION CONTROLLERS

NOTE: The CG controller does not have nice TP spots to solder things up to like the CL controller does. Most all of the wire connections must be made on existing Solder Joints or Vias.

miniM4pper pad - CG Controller board

CG+ - Power, TP5 *
GND - Ground, TP2 or TP22 (or any Ground spot on the board)
CL+ - Do Not Connect
ON - Do Not Connect
D or LED - LED+, solder to Via or LED, or can use a separate LED
G - Connect to G/L Pad **
G/L - Connect to G Pad **
RB - Right Bumper, Solder Joint or Via
LB - Left Bumper, Solder Joint or Via
RC - Right Stick Click
LC - Left Stick Click
Y - Y Button
TG - Tact Ground, Common Connection for the Tact Buttons. Alternately can use any Ground spot on the controller for them.
T4 - Tact Button #4 ***
T3 - Tact Button #3 ***
T2 - Tact Button #2
T1 - Tact Button #1
X - X Button
B - B Button
A - A Button
MD - Mode button. Back or Sync button is recommended, can also use a separate Tact switch if desired.


* If the miniM4pper needs too be turned on/off with the controller, an Optocoupler will need to be used, in which case CG+ will go to the Emitter of the Optocoupler.

** The G and G/L pads are for a Wireless CG Install. If there is no solder bridge between these 2 points and you are installing this on a Wireless CG controller, that solder bridge must be made so they are connected.

*** Tact 3 and Tact 4 are optional to install, but Tact 1 and Tact 2 must be installed for correct use.

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HOW TO USE
 
NOTES:
From here on the Tact buttons will be referred to as T1, T2, T3 and T4.
The Mode Button and LED will be referred to as such, not what you wired them up to, because I've no idea what you used there.

Turn the controller on.

1 - Press and Hold T1 and T2.
2 - Tap the Mode Button, the LED will fade on and off.
3 - Release T1 and T2, the LED will now be on solid.

* From here on the miniM4pper is in the Remap Mode and any of the Tacts can be Remapped in any order you choose, for example, to Remap the A Button to T1 you would..

4 - Press and Hold T1, the LED will blink.
5 - Press and Hold the A Button.
6 - Release T1, the LED will go back to being on solid.

** Alternately, and this is much faster once you have the hang of it, you can..

4 - Press and Hold the A Button.
5 - Tap T1, LED will flicker.
6 - Release the A Button.


* If you're done Remapping the Tact Buttons, you can Exit the Remap Mode by going to step 7, or you can continue to Remap the other Tact Buttons in the same manner by repeating steps 4, 5 and 6, just replace T1 with the Tact you wish to Remap and then use whatever button/s you want on it, for example, to Remap X and B together on T2 you would..

4 - Press and Hold T2, the LED will blink (a little bit faster than it did for T1).
5 - Press and Hold X and B.
6 - Release T2, the LED will go back to being on solid.

** Again this can be done alternately and is faster..

4 - Press and Hold X and B.
5 - Tap T2, LED will flicker.
6 - Release X and B.

7 - Tap the Mode Button, the LED will fade off and on a few times while the Remaps are being saved, then the LED will turn off. The Remaps are now saved and they will be recalled if the controller is turned off. The Tact Buttons can now be used.

Now when T1 is pressed it's the same as pressing the A Button, and when T2 is pressed it's the same as pressing X and B together.


You can also disable a Tact Button by changing step 5 to not pressing any Button/s. For example, to disable T1, enter the Remap Mode like above, then..

4 - Press and Hold T1, the LED will blink.
5 - Do not press any of the Buttons on the controller.
6 - Release T1, the LED will go back to being on solid.
7 - Tap the Mode Button to exit Remap Mode.

T1 is now blank and will do nothing when pressed. To use it again, just go thru the Remap steps like normal and choose the Button/s to use on it.

[watchm3n]

You are amazing RDC!!  Great work once again.

[RDC]

Thanks.


Just a small update. This will also work on the XB1 controller, as it's a Common Ground setup for the buttons as well. The only real addition is needing to install an LED for the miniM4pper feedback, and even then it will work without that.


INSTALLATION XBOX ONE CONTROLLER

NOTE: XB1 controller info can be seen here - https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43204.0.html

miniM4pper pad - XB1 Controller board

CG+ - Power, TP9 or Pin 4 of J6
GND - Ground, TP22 (or any Ground spot on the board) or Pin 3 or Pin 14 of J6
CL+ - Do Not Connect
ON - Do Not Connect
D or LED - LED+, Since the XB1 only has a single LED, a separate LED must be used for the miniM4pper *
G - Connect to G/L Pad **
G/L - Connect to G Pad **
RB - Right Bumper, Pin 5 of J6
LB - Left Bumper, Pin 9 of J5
RC - Right Stick Click
LC - Left Stick Click
Y - Y Button, Pin 10 of J6
TG - Tact Ground, Common Connection for the Tact Buttons. Alternately can use any Ground spot on the controller for them.
T4 - Tact Button #4 ***
T3 - Tact Button #3 ***
T2 - Tact Button #2
T1 - Tact Button #1
X - X Button, Pin 9 of J6
B - B Button, Via or pad at D14
A - A Button, Pin 8 of J6
MD - Mode button. View (Pin 11 on J6) or Sync (Pin 6 of J5) button is recommended, can also use a separate Tact switch if desired.


* Wire the new LED up with the Cathode to any Ground spot, then the Anode to the D pad on the miniM4pper. Use the correct Resistor on the LED for a 3.3v power source.

** The G and G/L pads are for an XB1 Install. If there is no solder bridge between these 2 points and you are installing this on an XB1 controller, that solder bridge must be made so they are connected.

*** Tact 3 and Tact 4 are optional to install, but Tact 1 and Tact 2 must be installed for correct use.


EDIT:

Mounting the miniM4pper on the top/right side of the MCU board makes for a cleaner install with far less wire needed. Under the B button contact to the right of J6 there is room for it. This way you only need to run 2 wires to the back side of the board, LC and RC, and then everything else can be wired up to J5 and J6 for it.



UPDATE: INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE X1 BOARD INTO THE XBOX ONE CONTROLLER, pics to follow when I get the time but they're pretty simple versus all the wiring of the older square ones.

Disassemble the controller, already piles of info and pics around on how to do this. The MCU board can be flipped over in place without having to desolder the Rumble motor wiring.



Prep the B button via, that is remove the solder mask and tin it. If you've never done this before be careful as ruining the via will kill the B button. (Alternately you can use a small jumper wire and connect this spot to the top pad of D14, but it's designed for prepping the via and soldering to it)







Install the X1 board and solder up the 11 connections marked with a black Triangle. There are 3 at J5, then 7 at J6, and the last 1 at the B button via. (Again, can alternately solder a wire to the top D14 pad and then to the X1)




The X1 boards TP spots are..

T1 = Tact 1
T2 = Tact 2
T3 = Tact 3
T4 = Tact 4
TG = Tact Ground or any Ground can be used.
SY = Sync
MD = Mode
VW = View
LED+ = LED+ for feedback, LED- goes to ground (optional, use proper Resistor for 3.3v source)
LC = LSC
RC = RSC

Wire up the LC and RC pads on the X1 board to the LSC and RSC buttons on the back of the controller board.

Wire up the Tacts you wish to use. T1 and T2 must be used, T3 and T4 are optional.

If you want to use VIEW for the MODE button, all that's needed is to jumper the VW and MD pads on the X1 or If you want to use SYNC for the MODE button, all that's needed is to jumper the SY and MD pads on the X1.

Usage is the same as already mentioned above, nothing has changed there. 

____________________________________________________________________________________________________

INSTALLATION DUALSHOCK 4 CONTROLLER

(WARNING: The code on the default miniM4pper will NOT work with the DS4, it has to be flashed with the DS4 code from the start. It is also not recommended to go thru the PITA of an install with the older style square PCB as I'm working on a Flex design that will make installation much easier, but it can be done. If anyone does wish to attempt it, then it must to be done on the JDM-001 or the JDM-011 version DS4 board, this older square PCB design can not be installed on the JDM-020 as it uses blind vias, but the new Flex design will work with it.)

NOTE: DS4 controller info can be seen here, but is not complete yet - https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43542.0.html

miniM4pper pad - DS4 Controller board

CG+ - Power, 3.2v spot, the power for the Sticks can be used for this
GND - Any Ground spot on the board, the solder lugs for the Sticks for example
CL+ - Do Not Connect
ON - Do Not Connect
D or LED - LED+, Since the DS4 has an LED bar, a separate LED must be used for the miniM4pper *
G - Do Not Connect
G/L - Do Not Connect
RB - Goes to R1 Via
LB - Goes to L1 Via
RC - Goes to R3 solder joint
LC - Goes to L3 Solder Joint
Y - Goes to Triangle Via
TG - Tact Ground, Common Connection for the Tact Buttons. Alternately can use any Ground spot on the controller for them.
T4 - Tact Button #4 **
T3 - Tact Button #3 **
T2 - Tact Button #2
T1 - Tact Button #1
X - Goes to Square Via
B - Goes to Circle Via
A - Goes to Cross Via
MD - Mode button. D-pad Down button is recommended, but it can be wired to any button that is active Lo (connects to ground when pressed) can also use a separate Tact switch if desired.


* Wire the new LED up with the Cathode to any Ground spot, then the Anode to the D or LED pad (may be labeled either way depending on the board version) of the miniM4pper. Use the correct Resistor on the LED for a 3.2v power source.

** Tact 3 and Tact 4 are optional to install, but Tact 1 and Tact 2 must be installed for correct use.

[spurgurgle]

where can i get one? would be interesting to install in my new pad....

[RDC]

Sent you a PM.

[1TONpete]

can this be used for mele r3 remap? that is my most common request for remap. if so can r3 be disabled?

[Modded Matt]

yes wonton, R3 is included. It is referenced as RSC (right stick click) but this mod does not disable anything. you would have to disable the RSC by cutting a trace or modifying the stick itself.

[RDC]

Yes it will remap RSC (R3), but no it does not disable anything, as Matt has said, and if the trace or stick was modified, then you'd never be able to remap it to a Tact via the miniM4pper as it needs the button to work so it knows what button to remap.

[1TONpete]

I have done a few r3s but I have one client that wanted to be able to switch back and forth. So I had to cut trace and put a switch in and solder to tps. Pain in the but for just a remap. I would love to find some thing that can just interupt the signal when needed.

[RDC]

That can be done with a PIC and some code, but you will still have to cut the trace to RSC no matter what, as that line has to be interrupted if you need the option of disabling it, the same way a switch does.

Then you would make the original RSC, and then the new Tact button, separate Inputs to the PIC. Then one Output to the RSC line of the controller. Then another Input for say Back or Sync to be able to get it into a 'setup mode' where you could determine which button(s), RSC, the Tact, both or neither would work or not, and an Output for an LED so there's some kind of feed back there if desired.

Then code the setup mode something like..

Press and hold RSC and the new Tact
Tap the Setup Mode button, back or whatever
LED does something
Release RSC and Tact
LED does something else
Press and hold whichever button(s), RSC or Tact or both or neither that you want to work or not
Tap Setup Mode button again
LED goes out
Release any button(s) that were held, and now whatever button(s) was/were held will be the one to function as the RSC.

That's only a setup for just doing the RSC and a single Tact though, not a 4 Tact and 8 button remapper like this thing is. To incorporate something like that into this, I'd have to modify the code more so than just writing all new for some 12F683 that would do just the RSC and Tact like described above. A SPST switch is a much faster and easier method, and less wiring than the PIC would be also.

[1TONpete]

Thanks RDC . very informitive as usual.
That was pretty much what I was thinking . maybe a lil simpler. I was thinking a pic. two tacts . one for the remap and one to switch between inputs. cut the trace . output to led.
I'm not a coder but , it seems logical to me that pressing the mode tact would tell the pic to look for input from either the rsc or my tact depending on mode. led on rsc disabled. led off rsc normal function. just my thinking. sorry to highjack thread. love your work RDC. I will see if I can get one of the young coders to help me.

[spurgurgle]

my chip turned up today, cheers rdc. its look like a really tidy little package. not onto installing it..........   

heres a picture.... it was smaller then i expected...



 

[owner1997]

it's really a great piece of hardware. but were can a buy this.

[MremiX]

Hey there!

Where can i get the chip?

[Gizmo613]

I Believe You have To Contact rdC. He Might Still Have Some.

[RDC]

Small update..


I have an alternate code now to only allow for 1 button per Tact to be remapped, dubbed the m1niM4pper. It works exactly as as the miniM4pper above and uses the same PCBs, but you can only remap 1 button per Tact. There is no 2, 3 or all 8 buttons per Tact allowed. You can do multiples of the Same button, so T1 = A and T2 = A is possible, but you can not remap it so T1 = A+B or T2 = LB+LSC+X, it will not allow that.

This was mainly done up as I had a few requests and it is for Tournament type controllers as they do not allow multi-button remapping, but do allow single button, go figure.



I'm also finalizing the designs for the XB1 and DS4 controller installs to take most of the mess out of doing them...

XBOX ONE


DUALSHOCK 4

[hotburn7]

Where buy this product please?

[RDC]

Your PM has been replied to.


Currently the White X1 board there is being made up. When it gets here, and if the quality of it is up to par, then I'll be looking into a quote on getting the DS4 flex boards done at the same fab house.

[RDC]

Alright, for those that have been waiting for the X1 board, that wait is just about over with. Right now I'm waiting on a stencil to show up and see about making the builds go a little quicker, but even if that fails I'll still be doing them the slower old fashioned way.

[/URL]

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[WHITE 4ND N3RDY]

Sickness! I'll defenently be snagging some of these up!

[RDC]

Had a request awhile back for adding the D-pad into the mix. While that was not possible with the current hardware of the miniM4pper, and wasn't something I was really interested in doing back when this all started, I've since switched up to another PIC and have the prototype of a 12 button (no Triggers) remapper completed now. Technically it can do all 16 buttons, but since there are only 16 buttons on the controller, and some would be pointless to remap or are needed for a Mode button, there really are only 12 that are worth remapping. So at present the A, B, X, Y, LB, RB, LSC, RSC, DU, DD, DL and DR will be remappable on 2 to 6 different Tacts (only 5 are connected in the pic below) with this version.




Now the next step (in the works as of 2-3-2015) is to make up some prototype PCBs for testing both the entire setup inside of the controller, as well as the SMT version of the PIC, since sometimes those things don't work out the same way as their DIP versions, aka the issue I had with the miniM4pper when I switched to SMT.




Then if all of that checks out, the final version will be like the X1 board as this is only being done for the XBOX ONE at present.

[Aliamir]

That's pretty sweet, basically your PCB is similar to what consolecustoms has. How many rev's of the PCB did you go through?

[RDC]

Thanks. My X1 PCB design is what I came up with after first seeing the XB1 controller when it was released back in November 2013. It's technically gone thru no revision changes as far as the shape of it and how it was to be mounted, only what went on it as the first idea back then was for a simple breakout board for easier wiring for doing other tests.



It was just too expensive to get this design done without having to get hundreds of them made up, so the simple small square design is what I went with instead and it's basic design was pretty much the same from day one also aside from having to add in the Regulator for the CL version controller.

It's also the best way to go about attaching to the button lines with the way the XB1 controller is designed, so anyone that makes up any decent PCB for the XB1 that has to do with the buttons, will have a similar QSB layout.

[Aliamir]

Yeah for sure, your constrained by the Xbox PCB shape, so they will more or less look the same. Looks great!

[Conquer Gaming]

Thanks. My X1 PCB design is what I came up with after first seeing the XB1 controller when it was released back in November 2013. It's technically gone thru no revision changes as far as the shape of it and how it was to be mounted, only what went on it as the first idea back then was for a simple breakout board for easier wiring for doing other tests.



It was just too expensive to get this design done without having to get hundreds of them made up, so the simple small square design is what I went with instead and it's basic design was pretty much the same from day one also aside from having to add in the Regulator for the CL version controller.

It's also the best way to go about attaching to the button lines with the way the XB1 controller is designed, so anyone that makes up any decent PCB for the XB1 that has to do with the buttons, will have a similar QSB layout.

How can I make these remapping chips for the xbox one or the other square chip you made?

[RDC]

Learn how the controller works first, then learn how to code, then learn how to use a PCB making app like DipTrace, Eagle or the like and then have your boards made at any number of different PCB fab houses online or have them just make the boards and install the components yourself after you learn how to do SMT rework.

[Conquer Gaming]

Learn how the controller works first, then learn how to code, then learn how to use a PCB making app like DipTrace, Eagle or the like and then have your boards made at any number of different PCB fab houses online or have them just make the boards and install the components yourself after you learn how to do SMT rework.

Do sell the boards completed? and how much would they be each?

[RDC]

Yes, and you can PM me for the details.

[RDC]

The m1Dim6pper prototype board is in, has been wired up and tested out here so far.

Up to 6 Tacts can be installed (2 minimum) and remapped to the A, B, X, Y, LB, RB, LSC, RSC, DU, DD, DL or DR, and it will only do 1 button per Tact. This is still a prototype, thus a little more of a pain to install than the final will be, so it's not really ready for anyone at present and will only be sent to a couple of beta testers for some feedback right now. It's also only geared for the XB1 controller at present, though it will also work on the 360 CG controllers as-is. I may do some alternate code for the multi-button and another version for the CL, but right now the XB1 is the main focus for this one.

[RDC]

I've redone the test PCB design for the m1Dim6pper so it's the same size now as the original miniM4pper board, which is a 15mm square. I'll have some of these built up in a few weeks or so for more testing also.

V - 3.3v
G - Ground
M - Mode
D - LED
T1~T6 = Tacts
1~12 = Connections for the 12 buttons. Any number of them can be used, so if you only want to be able to remap 4 buttons or 8 or 10 you can, and they can be wired up in any order you want.

So wiring up the ABXY like this..

1 - A
2 - B
3 - X
4 - Y
etc. - etc.

..will work the exact same as wiring them like this..

1 - X
2 - B
3 - Y
4 - A
etc. - etc.

..or this..

2 - X
5 - A
10 - Y
11 - B

It doesn't care one bit how you wire them up or how many you use. You can also use a minimum of 2 Tacts (T1 and T2 must be used so you can get into the programming mode) but you can use 3, 4, 5, or all 6 if you want. 




If there ends up being enough interest in the full 12 button remapper for the XB1 controllers I'll finish up the m1Dim6pper X1 design so it's easier to install. The only difference here versus the original miniM4pper or X1 is this one can do 12 buttons, so basically just adding the D-pad, and it offers up to 6 Tact buttons.

This one does not work on the Wired CL version 360 controller at present either, only the 360 CG and XB1 controllers are supported right now.

[RDC]

Just a friendly heads up to everyone. There is some jerkass selling the X1 and the original square miniM4pper version boards on eBay for far, far more than what I charge.

The pic is of my board, they just edited out the part that has miniM4pper writing on it, inverted the colors and are claiming it's their work. I know what my soldering on them looked like, so they are fooling no one.

If you bought one of those things, you could have purchased 2 from me and still had money left over.

[Gizmo613]

that's some cold ass right there man.

Is it someone who you sold it to recently?

[WHITE 4ND N3RDY]

Some people kids. That's major D nozzle status  . I would say D bag but that's the clean part . Theres always going to be someone trying to shine off others hard work. Thats about the lowest u can go in my book.

[rafaliyo86]

That´s  . But if he is selling your chips I suppose he bought you a high quantity then maybe you know who is

[Aliamir]

He's Canadian so if you have shipped to Canada, that should help you find out who he is. He's selling a lot of your hardware and making good money doing it, what a d*** move.

[RDC]

I've found out now what the deal is there, and it's not a rip off, they're my boards that have gone from person A to person B. It's the severe price gouging and the fact they're calling it their work because person A said person B could call it whatever that's grinding my gears.

[Gizmo613]

That's still not right. if the customer has a problem then it comes back to acidmods as the info is all here. That would make us look like douches.

[RDC]

I never said it was right, and anyone that has an issue with them has to deal with whoever they bought it from, they have no reason to assume anything about AM, info or not, and are more than welcome to contact me as I'm the one that has made it. They are just as free to see my post on XS about the X1 and just as incorrectly assume they are douches as well.

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?/topic/748902-x1-minim4pper-tact-switch-remapping/

[RDC]

The DS4 miniM4pper is completed now - https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43397.msg325489.html#msg325489




The 12 button X1 is also in the middle testing phase as I had to change PICs there, again. The PCB has been redesigned and is the same size now as the original miniM4pper square board.