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The L2 and R2 are where it gets to be a little more work. First you'll need to install a Pull-Up Resistor from 3.2v to the L2 and R2 lines, one for each side. The exact value is 7.5k, but 10k will work just as well in this case. Then you'll connect your new L2 and R2 buttons wires to the L2/2L spots for L2, and R2/2R spots for R2.
If you have the room, just leave the Sticks installed on the board, as you don't want to tear up any traces there and have that mess to deal with.
You can, but then your LEDs will be on ALL of the time. Also, the battery voltage will be ~4.2v while it's charging and vary from that to 3v or so. This is the least recommended way to power your LEDs from the controller as the power source is not regulated (stays at a specific voltage) and it is on all of the time since it's just a battery. Even if you were to use a switch in that circuit so you could determine when the LEDs were on/off, you still have the voltage issue.There is a dedicated 3.2v source in there that powers pretty much everything that you should use for your LEDs instead. The voltage stays at 3.2v and it turns on/off (is switched) with the controller, so your LEDs would as well. The easiest place to get the 3.2v is the 2 outside leads of any one of the Sticks POTs, the row of 3 solder joints. One outside lead is Ground, the other is 3.2v, and you're done. If you are looking at the bottom of the controller..Code: [Select]+ = 3.2v- = GroundX = X-axisY = Y-axisL = L3R = R3O = Solder Lugs (these are also Ground) Right Stick Left Stick + X - + X - O O O O + R - + L - Y Y + R + + L + O O O O
+ = 3.2v- = GroundX = X-axisY = Y-axisL = L3R = R3O = Solder Lugs (these are also Ground) Right Stick Left Stick + X - + X - O O O O + R - + L - Y Y + R + + L + O O O O
It's a regulated 3.2v source, so it's 3.2v, and using one stick or both for power it would be the same. As to it working or not, the schematic is correct, but LEDs are current driven devices, not voltage, once the fV of the LED is met that is. Without knowing the specs of your LEDs there, you could be drawing too much current from that source and cause the controller to not work. I personally wouldn't draw any more than 100mA from there total, which gives you more than 10mA per LED to drive them, and if they aren't bright enough at 10mA, then you should get some better LEDs, as you really only need 5mA or less to light up some decent LEDs good. If your LEDs voltage is rated at the mentioned 3v, then with 100ohm Resistors on each you'll get around 2.2mA per LED, which is fine, but without knowing the current rating of them it's impossible to say how bright they may be driven with that amount.