Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1697 (Read 58047 times)

RDC · « **Reply #60 on:** March 13, 2021, 09:50:04 PM »

The Y-axis is up/down, X-axis is left/right. So LSX isn't causing the stick to go up. Either LSY is shorted ground or more likely the AN+ voltage to the LSY POT is not there due to an open trace somewhere.

Right stick up/left same deal, either both of those lines are shorted to ground or again more likely the AN+ connection to that POT has been broken somewhere.

evlshdw · « **Reply #61 on:** May 20, 2021, 12:25:18 PM »

Quote from: RDC on February 19, 2021, 01:34:44 AM

R71 = 66.5k, 0.5% or better

Thanks for the info.

MadMaxGR · « **Reply #62 on:** July 13, 2021, 06:26:05 AM »

Sorry to open that thread again but I find it that my question is related and doesn't worth new topic.

I have a 1697 controller that the left analog goes up all the time once signal goes to the pot. The controller had previous repair attempt and I fixed the cap ( I guess), little messy work but more asures ok, no shorts now at C20. But even if I remove that cap, I see no difference on the controller's behaviour anyway. Maybe is not essential component after all.

I have replaced the analog with another original Alps twice, juwt to be sure but I get the same result.

I have checked for short to ground on TP99 thru TP104, but didn't find any. So, what am I missing?

RDC · « **Reply #63 on:** July 13, 2021, 01:14:15 PM »

Define 'goes up'.

Goes up slowly? Drifting.

Goes up full? Like you are holding it at max travel.

MadMaxGR · « **Reply #64 on:** July 16, 2021, 10:37:00 AM »

It goes up at max level.

Quote from: RDC link=topic=43725.msg337261#msg337261
date=1626207255

Define 'goes up'.

Goes up slowly? Drifting.

Goes up full? Like you are holding it at max travel.

RDC · « **Reply #65 on:** July 16, 2021, 01:47:54 PM »

Check that C22 is not shorted. Also check to see if the bottom lead of that LSY POT has the AN+ (1.8v) on it. The LSY line shorted to ground or no AN+ on the LSY POT will both cause the same issue.

SirlanFraga · « **Reply #66 on:** July 29, 2021, 06:49:07 PM »

Hi, I lost TP40, so my DU doesn't work anymore. Can you help me?

RDC · « **Reply #67 on:** July 29, 2021, 06:55:00 PM »

You can't jumper that easily since the trace goes right under the MCU after TP40. You'll have to prep the traces on each side of TP40 and solder the jumper wire to it on each side to bridge that open.

SirlanFraga · « **Reply #68 on:** July 30, 2021, 12:25:58 PM »

Tks. It seems very difficult to me. But I will try. If it's not asking too much, can you mark in the photo the trace that I have to scrape to make the jumper?

ChrisJavier · « **Reply #69 on:** October 23, 2021, 05:34:04 PM »

Xbox one controller that doesn't output audio from the headphone jack. Replaced the jack with a brand new one and still. Couldn't find any shorts nor broken traces. The PC detects when headphones are connected. Any ideas?

RDC · « **Reply #70 on:** October 24, 2021, 11:11:35 AM »

That dialog chip, U15, does the headset amplification. Could be it, could be any number of it's support components or it's BGA connections or any BGA connections on the MCU related to U15.

Qball · « **Reply #71 on:** December 26, 2021, 07:09:31 PM »

I have a bit of an odd problem or set of problems not sure if they are all connected. Test point 103 is missing power when supplied with power from another nearby test point the left joystick functions normally yet the right one seems to go to the full till to the upper left corner (could be stick drift just seems a bit extreme for it). The right bumper also seems to think it is being pressed all the time and then both triggers according to a gamepad tester I use are sitting at about 20% triggered. Any ideas?

Qball · « **Reply #72 on:** December 26, 2021, 07:50:56 PM »

Quote from: Qball on December 26, 2021, 07:09:31 PM

I have a bit of an odd problem or set of problems not sure if they are all connected. Test point 103 is missing power when supplied with power from another nearby test point the left joystick functions normally yet the right one seems to go to the full till to the upper left corner (could be stick drift just seems a bit extreme for it). The right bumper also seems to think it is being pressed all the time and then both triggers according to a gamepad tester I use are sitting at about 20% triggered. Any ideas?

Alright just tested with another MCU board and all problems seem to go away and the only problems that persist are one with the second mcu board

RDC · « **Reply #73 on:** December 27, 2021, 09:56:30 AM »

If you go connecting TP spots without knowing what any of them are for then you'll be fixing things until they break for sure.

TP103 is the AN+ (Analog voltage) rail for the Sticks and the MCU vRef. That can't just be any voltage from some other TP spot, it's a dedicated 1.8v for just those things.

The Right Stick moving full tilt up/left usually means that it has no AN+ on the POTs for that Stick.

The BGA chip on that board can get crud under it and need a good cleaning or a reflow sometimes to correct weirdo issues. Though I'd be looking for damaged traces or why the Right Stick lost it's AN+ and the Triggers acting odd could be BGA or trace damage related also.

alexzai89 · « **Reply #74 on:** April 08, 2022, 09:02:20 AM »

Quote from: RDC on July 16, 2021, 01:47:54 PM

Check that C22 is not shorted. Also check to see if the bottom lead of that LSY POT has the AN+ (1.8v) on it. The LSY line shorted to ground or no AN+ on the LSY POT will both cause the same issue.

Hi, May i know what the value of the C22? i need to find a replacement as I accidently damage it during the process of replacing the analogue stick

RDC · « **Reply #75 on:** April 08, 2022, 06:49:42 PM »

C22 = 100nF, but you can leave it off, it's not gong to make any real noticeable difference.

alexzai89 · « **Reply #76 on:** April 09, 2022, 12:23:18 AM »

Quote from: RDC on April 08, 2022, 06:49:42 PM

C22 = 100nF, but you can leave it off, it's not gong to make any real noticeable difference.

my current issue is after i replace the left joystick, LSY no longer functioning. I checked AN+ have 1.8V, no shorting as well. so i though the C22 was the issue as i accidently damage it during the process of removing the left joystick.

RDC · « **Reply #77 on:** April 09, 2022, 03:50:25 AM »

If the bottom pad for C22 was also removed, then the LSY signal can no longer get to the MCU. If that is what happened, then run a jumper wire from the middle lead of the LSY POT to TP99.

alexzai89 · « **Reply #78 on:** April 10, 2022, 08:25:16 AM »

Hi RDC, it works after i do the jumper wire from TP99 to mid lead of LSY POT. Thanks a bunch.

RDC · « **Reply #79 on:** April 10, 2022, 08:26:22 AM »

Welcome.

szadon · « **Reply #80 on:** August 07, 2022, 02:05:30 AM »

Hi , first I wanted to thank you guys for all that knowledge that you share on this forum .

I have problem with d-pad buttons, even after replacing conducive film buttons are not fully responsive, and some of them have double click issue. Any idea how to fix that? Graphite layer on PCB looks fine. I have few controllers with same issue.

RDC · « **Reply #81 on:** August 08, 2022, 12:51:19 PM »

Which buttons exactly? B, LSC and RSC go directly to the MCU, while every other Digital button goes thru an IO Expander IC before going to the MCU.

szadon · « **Reply #82 on:** August 09, 2022, 01:33:58 AM »

Direction buttons. So even after replacing conductive film sticker they are not fully responsive or have dibble click issue. I?m not sure if it?s the bad quality of sticker I use or graphite layer on pcb is not conducive as it should. I was thinking to put some layer electric conductive glue to make it more responsive but I?m not sure how long it?s stay on pcb .

RDC · « **Reply #83 on:** August 09, 2022, 03:34:53 AM »

The XB1 controllers don't use a conductive film exactly for the D-pad, those should be metal discs, like how a Tact switch works. Could be the quality of the replacement part as that double click is probably from the thing bouncing more than it should when pressed. Could be the alignment of it as it needs to be pretty close to center for them to work correctly also. Have you tried the replacement part on a known good controller?

bigtitmaster · « **Reply #84 on:** August 09, 2022, 09:27:38 AM »

Can i just connect usb directly to the J connector?
i managed to break the connector pads but i see some rezistors on the data line.

szadon · « **Reply #85 on:** August 11, 2022, 01:48:47 AM »

RDC you have right as always 😁 it was quality of that metal dome. I ordered white ones and problem disappeared. Microsoft using white only in 1708 controllers but they works fine with every model.
Thanks

RDC · « **Reply #86 on:** August 11, 2022, 02:11:03 AM »

@szadon - Welcome.

@bigtitmaster - You could wire it 'directly' if you wanted. The 5v just goes thru a 0ohm jumper Resistor. The Data lines should each go thru a 33ohm before going to the connector though.

jesusma · « **Reply #87 on:** September 13, 2022, 09:43:53 AM »

Hi RDC thank you for all this information it really helps a lot.

I have the same problem as JvB. I read the information and I have the VSS line from U9 shorted to ground. Could it be that the EN line is not connect to the MCU? I can't see on which pin goes the EN line from U9. I know maybe it has nothing to do but I had a controller with the same issue (1708) and the EN line was broken. Is if not much to ask can you provide which pin from U9 EN line goes on the MCU?

Thanks I really appreciated all your hard work.

RDC · « **Reply #88 on:** September 13, 2022, 01:25:22 PM »

Welcome.

VSS and Ground are the same thing, so not sure what you are trying to say there, becasue those should be connected.

You really need a scope to see what is going on with that EN line.

I have not torn down and traced out the 1697 board, but that circuit is going to be pretty much the same as the 1708. So U9p3 is EN and has R40 for a PullDown, then it goes thru R38 and then to U1p??, the MCU. The MCU is a BGA package, so you probably wouldn't be able to repair just that connection anyway if it's broken at that solder joint. I've seen that 1697 and 1698 MCU need a reflow before to correct some issues, but I'd want to scope that EN line first and see how it, as well as the Output of U9, was behaving first.

maraver · « **Reply #89 on:** March 15, 2023, 03:49:28 PM »

Hi I am repairing 1697 Xbox one controller

I need know what type are this components and values 1697 MCU BOARD TOP

C24 = I think that is a Capacitor ( I need value )
C42 = I think that is a Capacitor ( I need value )
R23 = I think that is a resistence ( I need value )
D16 = I think that is a diode ( I need value )

Thanks for all

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1697 (Read 58047 times)