Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 197238 times)

RDC · « **Reply #240 on:** May 10, 2020, 01:16:40 PM »

Welcome.

RedPixels_ · « **Reply #241 on:** May 12, 2020, 06:13:54 PM »

Hello, big noob in electronics here. I recently got a controller from a friend and he told me that I can take it and fix it for myself. And this has a very strange fault. The IC labeled U1 completely burned and with it also the resistors, capacitors and diode around it. I know that the only possible fix is to replace the entire board especially because the PCB is destroyed, but can anyone tell me why this happened and how? I was assuming too much current passed in the component. I don't want to get this fixed and repeat the same error.

RDC · « **Reply #242 on:** May 13, 2020, 03:27:37 PM »

Could be they just plugged it into some higher output USB source. Without knowing how the thing was treated it's entire life you'll never really know why it happened. Electronics can just up an do that sometimes also, as there are hundreds or thousands of transistors in those tiny packages and when just one goes it can avalanche into a mess like that.

theADDict · « **Reply #243 on:** May 14, 2020, 04:09:34 AM »

Morning all.
Time to nag RDC once again.

Dived into my box of spares, and this 1708 top board came to hand.

Problem.... No dpad response at all.

Diagnosis didn't take too long..... Cracked board in thin area under right stick cut out, right where LB1 is printed.

Can see 4 via to the right..... Where are the best... Or rather... Easier. . points to solder to ? Are there easier points on other side of board ??

Edit : on further examination.... Think this is one for the spares bin.

RDC · « **Reply #244 on:** May 14, 2020, 10:39:00 AM »

You'll be soldering to some vias to jumper those traces back together, also the Sync button trace runs thru there as well, so it's probably dead too.

To restore..

DR - TP14 to the top side of D10. (both bottom side of PCB)

DL - TP15 to the via for pin 13 of U4 (both bottom side of PCB)

DU - TP16 to the via for pin 11 of U4 (both bottom side of PCB)

DD - TP17 (bottom of PCB) to the bottom side of D12 (top of PCB, bottom left of D-pad)

SY - TP18 (bottom of PCB) to the left side of C27 (top of PCB at SY button)

aydinrad · « **Reply #245 on:** May 23, 2020, 12:33:50 PM »

Hello! I was doing the extreme rate remap kit and ended up pulling off a few TP's. I was able to fix most of them, but I do not know where to wire TP11 to. Also, despite the fact that TP66 was not touched at all, my right sticks X-axis does not work. Upon checking the continuity between TP66 and the black hole connected to where TP11 used to be, I get a short beep. When I did it with a working controller, I got no beep at all. What should I do? Thank you.

RDC · « **Reply #246 on:** May 23, 2020, 01:00:42 PM »

Not sure why they are using TP11, a couple other places for that particular spot are pin 3 of J5 or pad 70 of the small MCU board. If it's supposed to be the power for the thing, then using TP9 would be a better choice as it's a regulated 3.3v source.

Take the meter off continuity and use the Ohms setting to check traces.

aydinrad · « **Reply #247 on:** May 23, 2020, 01:45:40 PM »

I'm not too concerned about using the remap kit anymore, I just want to fix my right stick Y axis(I might have accidentally said X axis on the last post). I used the ohm setting to check the traces for TP65 (the RSY) and both traces give me around .3 ohms (I got the same numbers on a working controller so I assume the traces are fine). Upon checking the right joystick, I noticed the Y axis pin had a similarly low resistance to the ground pin on the joystick, whereas my working controller had a high resistance. Another observation I made is that the resistance between TP 65 and the black hole connected to TP11 is 200k ohms on the working controller and 3M ohms on the broken controller. Is this because I accidentally pulled off TP11 on the broken controller, or is it something else, like my right stick (which worked perfectly prior to ripping off TP11)?

RDC · « **Reply #248 on:** May 23, 2020, 01:56:17 PM »

TP11 doesn't have any trace running thru it, so it it's missing then it's fine like that.

Measure from TP65 to the center lead of the RSY POT, that should be right around 0 ohms. If it is anything higher, then connect those together with a jumper wire.

A tip for you, don't go jamming test leads into the vias, as that will give you a bogus measurement unless you stab it in there and pierce the solder mask and at that point you can damage them and cause an open in the trace and more issues.

aydinrad · « **Reply #249 on:** May 23, 2020, 02:14:59 PM »

I'm not too sure what you mean. Is the POT the physical joystick with the 14 solder points? If that's the case, which one is the center one? Also thanks for the advice, I am new to all of this.

RDC · « **Reply #250 on:** May 23, 2020, 02:26:24 PM »

The POT is the Potentiometer that clips onto the side of the stick. The 3 leads in a row are the POT leads, one is for X-axis (left/right) other is for Y-axis (up/down).

aydinrad · « **Reply #251 on:** May 23, 2020, 02:50:41 PM »

It is .3 ohms. So no jumper wire?

RDC · « **Reply #252 on:** May 23, 2020, 02:54:56 PM »

Correct. That 0.3 ohms is the resistance of the trace and mostly your test leads, so that means it's connector from the POT to the TP65.

Is the thing acting like it's pressed all the way up or down on it's own? or what is it doing exactly?

aydinrad · « **Reply #253 on:** May 23, 2020, 02:56:55 PM »

The stick is completely centered. it moves left and right perfectly, but it does not register vertical movement at all.

RDC · « **Reply #254 on:** May 23, 2020, 03:05:21 PM »

You'll need it powered on for this test, so be careful poking the leads around in there while it's running. Nothing in there will give you a jolt, but shorting out the wrong things while it's on could kill it.

See what the voltage is on the center lead of that POT. Red test lead on the center POT lead, black test lead on any ground spot, meter set to DC volts. It should measure right around 0.9v, and that value should change up and down when the stick is moved up/down. Lower voltage when moved up, higher voltage when moved down. If you measure the 2 outside leads of the POT, it should be 1.8v, or -1.8v depending on which way you have the test leads, but either way it should measure 1.8v

aydinrad · « **Reply #255 on:** May 23, 2020, 05:18:05 PM »

I plugged my controller into my pc, the Xbox light came on, and I put the red lead on the center POT lead and the black on TP22 (ground) and got 0 V DC. Same for the two leads above and below the center lead.

RDC · « **Reply #256 on:** May 23, 2020, 07:23:29 PM »

Yeah, none of that is right. Check the X-axis POT and see what it measures.

aydinrad · « **Reply #257 on:** May 23, 2020, 08:22:11 PM »

I'm getting .9V on the X axis POT

RDC · « **Reply #258 on:** May 23, 2020, 08:25:43 PM »

Post a pic of the board there where you're measuring, just that general area. Something is really not right, because if that Y axis line is measuring 0v then it should be acting like it is being pressed up all the way.

aydinrad · « **Reply #259 on:** May 23, 2020, 08:31:58 PM »

I'm sorry, you're right, the right stick is stuck being pressed up all the way. However, pushing it down does not change anything.

RDC · « **Reply #260 on:** May 23, 2020, 08:36:24 PM »

Uh huh. Put a jumper wire from the bottom Y-axis POT lead to the left X-axis POT lead.

aydinrad · « **Reply #261 on:** May 23, 2020, 08:52:32 PM »

That did not work unfortunately. I'd send a picture, but I do not know how to. I click on the insert image button and it just puts "img" in brackets...

RDC · « **Reply #262 on:** May 23, 2020, 08:55:06 PM »

Upload it to any photo site then just post the link.

aydinrad · « **Reply #263 on:** May 23, 2020, 08:59:46 PM »

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9wC5rHFRxARov1dq6

RDC · « **Reply #264 on:** May 23, 2020, 09:02:55 PM »

Check the voltage on the Y-axis POT now.

aydinrad · « **Reply #265 on:** May 23, 2020, 09:07:11 PM »

still 0V DC

RDC · « **Reply #266 on:** May 23, 2020, 09:11:15 PM »

Well for a functional stick that's impossible as there was 0.9v on the X-axis POT, so it was getting voltage. That jumper wire should have put the voltage to the Y-axis POT. Has that stick been replaced? It looks like very single solder joint on the thing has been had at.

aydinrad · « **Reply #267 on:** May 23, 2020, 09:19:15 PM »

It has been replaced, but it worked after the repair. It stopped working when I tried to install that button remap kit and tore out the solder joint for TP11, TP67, TP41 on the MCU board and TP20 on the button board (yeah I really goofed). I was able to restore functionality to all of the buttons affected by my mistakes.

RDC · « **Reply #268 on:** May 23, 2020, 09:25:56 PM »

The only way for there to still be 0v on the center Y-axis POT lead now is if the POT has an issue. Unless the jumper wire you put on has a break in the middle of it, which I'd doubt. Measure voltage on both ends of it though, with respect to ground, they should both measure 1.8v. If the center lead of Y still measures 0v and you do have the 1.8v on the bottom lead, then that POT is the problem.

aydinrad · « **Reply #269 on:** May 23, 2020, 09:29:36 PM »

I get 0V DC when measuring both sides of the wire.

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 197238 times)