Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 219939 times)

Greendaycolt · « **Reply #360 on:** November 30, 2020, 07:40:55 PM »

Thanks RDC. You are awesome - this board is working now!

Resistance was about .24M Ohm, so I cut the trace going from TP20 to RB, very close to where TP20 is on the flip side of the board, and jumped TP20 to RB.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #361 on:** December 31, 2020, 02:56:37 AM »

Hey RDC, sorry to bump this one up, but need a little help.

You helped me a long time ago (about 15 yrs) get my original wireless arcade controller done for 360.

Well, I am updating it to a 1708 S controller pcb. I have everything soldered to the xbox controller boards and then to the arcade buttons and joystick.

So, heres the problem (and I know it's an easy one). Everything powers on and tests great with the micro usb plugged in. All buttons work and all is g.

But when I try to connect external 2xAA pack to the battery contacts on the button/power board I get nada. I noticed there is a little tab that hits EG1 on the button/power board and guessing that has something to do with it. ???

Any help is appreciated and sorry for dumb question.

RDC · « **Reply #362 on:** December 31, 2020, 03:48:19 AM »

The EG1 isn't causing the issue, that's just another ground, and it does that thru 2 pins on the connector there.

Was the controller confirmed working on the AA before it was torn apart?

If so, first make sure you're getting the + and - connected correctly (have to say it, because if I don't then that's what it would be) then I'd check and make sure is that L1 is still on the top Button/Power board and that it did not get cracked in any of the corners of the octagon opening there.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #363 on:** December 31, 2020, 04:09:46 AM »

Yes, controller was confirmed working with 2xAA before tear down. I tested it thoroughly before working on it.

And, no worries, I will get a close up pic of my wiring tomorrow to the battery contacts. Pretty sure it's right and checked it first thing when it wouldn't power up with AAs but would power on with micro.

I will check L1 and let you know on that too.

Thank you for all the help and info on this site.

Also, any alternative wireless powering ideas if the battery contacts won't work. Like a 5v to the micro connector or something. I know that connection works at least.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #364 on:** December 31, 2020, 04:24:28 AM »

Here is a quick pic of the arcade controller guts and I will get a close up of the xbox board power hookups soon.

Any further help on a location for L1 on the button/power board? I am not finding it and have to go off ur scans since xbox PCBs are mounted for now and hoping to solve this without removal. Around the octagonal opening for the analog stick correct?

RDC · « **Reply #365 on:** December 31, 2020, 04:30:42 AM »

Octagon opening is where the Right stick goes thru.

L1 is on the bottom side of the Top board, just to the right and down from the AA+ contact.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #366 on:** December 31, 2020, 04:52:44 AM »

L1 looks to be in perfect shape. No damage I can see under 5x mag.

Here is a pic of the battery hookup from a 2x AA series holder. Battery setup worked on old 360 boards before tear down.

I know not the greatest pic, but I have the negative hooked up to top battery tab WH2 and positive to the bottom battery tab WH1.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #367 on:** December 31, 2020, 04:56:06 AM »

Here is a pic of the simple series 2xAA battery holder.

The two leads from the battery holder run inside and to the xbox pcb.

RDC · « **Reply #368 on:** December 31, 2020, 05:07:02 AM »

Something about that L1 don't look right. Maybe it shifted when it soldered and it's fine, but it's not on there straight. Take a meter and put the AA in there and check the voltage from any ground spot to each side of that L1, should have ~3v on each side of it.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #369 on:** December 31, 2020, 05:18:28 AM »

Ty for looking.

I may just run with the micro usb and get a usb battery bank, run micro usb cable into there. Works great on micro usb and would have crazy battery life.

Thoughts?

RDC · « **Reply #370 on:** December 31, 2020, 05:31:36 AM »

It might work that way, but 5v on the USB lets the controller know the cable is connected, so it may try defaulting to a wired state, never tried that before to see how that acts. I'd still wonder what was up with the AA path. The 5v input has to go thru U1 first and gets knocked down to 3v for U2 and U3 to use, whereas the AA goes to U2/U3, via Q6/Q7. Since it works from the USB everything is good as far as U2/U3 are concerned, so the issue has to be L1 or around the Q6 and Q7 area not letting the AA 3v thru to U2/U3.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #371 on:** December 31, 2020, 05:36:44 AM »

Got it. Will check all that soon and let you know how it goes.

Thank you for your help and time.

wickated · « **Reply #372 on:** December 31, 2020, 09:58:20 AM »

q6 q7 already mentioned i see.
as for power thingys - 18650+tp4056 works good when placed instead of AA, only disadvantage is showing 100% charge alltime

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #373 on:** December 31, 2020, 10:07:12 AM »

Thank you both. Going with usb battery pack. Works great. Just finishing up the battery pack install and will show pics.

I am not sure why AA won't work, but since everything else works great, leaving it alone.

First run on Galaga almost got to my all time high score. A Happ Joystick and Happ comp buttons work so great for the old games. And I am old...

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #374 on:** December 31, 2020, 01:14:32 PM »

I pulled it all apart and checked L1 and Q6/Q7 under 10x mag. It all looks fine. No cracks, solder looks good.

Hmmm, was going to redo some stuff but now not sure where the problem is. Going to try hooking it up to AA now with it all out and see if it changes.

The usb packs work good, but eventually disconnects on me. The 5v 1A works best and almost never disconnects. The 5v 2.5A disconnects often.

Going to see what I can see and possibly try again with fresh boards, but want to know what happened first.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #375 on:** December 31, 2020, 03:18:04 PM »

Also, I forgot to mention it said a headset was connected to the controller and there was no headset connected to anything.

Maybe a grounding fault.

I wonder if that EG1 contact needs to be in the loop still.

There is a contact in between the batteries in the stock controller battery holder that touches that point on the button/power board. Why?

Most mods don't require total removal of the boards from the controller. They usually go back into the original case but modified. So, it's kinda the only difference I can see. Outside of me toasting something or breaking something.

The fact that all buttons, sync, guide and all that work fine makes it hard to believe I screwed up that bad to make it not accept battery power. I checked and rechecked all solders and components on both boards and don't see anything obvious or damaged. I could have screwed something up for sure, but everything around my solders is good.

I don't have my fluke right now to test the voltage on L1, but that may be next. Gotta get it back from my buddy.

Sorry for the long posts, but was so close and want to know what happened.

I solder to vias right by the test points. I don't see it causing any issues on this board except for maybe TP17 with that resistor in play. But, when that button worked just fine (DD), I thought I was good. All the other solders are uninterrupted from TP to closest via.

Lmk if any further thoughts come to you.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #376 on:** December 31, 2020, 03:20:46 PM »

Also, no headset jack in there cause it's just floating between boards.

Could that be causing the issue somehow.

RDC · « **Reply #377 on:** December 31, 2020, 04:57:30 PM »

EG1 isn't causing it.

Headset connector missing is not causing the AA issue either, but is the reason it shows the Headset is plugged in. If you plan to never use a wired Headset with it then on the MCU board jumper the PK2 contact to the PK3 contact.

If you've scraped and soldered to vias then something could have been damaged during that process. The wiring is stripped back quite a bit as well and could be shorting on something else in there.

Does the Guide button work when connected with the USB?

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #378 on:** December 31, 2020, 05:43:07 PM »

Yep, guide works. Everything works except AA power.

Got it on the headset. Ty.

Well, guess this one we won't know. I am pretty careful and exact in my solders, but possible I hosed it up.

Via prep and soldering is easy. And I double checked them all under 5x mag, so I think I would see damage or shorts. All traces are in tact around my solders, I checked under 10x mag.

?? Try again I guess.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #379 on:** December 31, 2020, 06:05:21 PM »

Old 360 job lasted almost 15 years and survived shipping from Colorado to Hawaii.

I will get it, just a matter of screwing up a few times and learning from each one. How it went on my 360 version too. Lol. At least I got all the buttons to work first try.

Thank you.

RDC · « **Reply #380 on:** December 31, 2020, 06:05:51 PM »

You'll need to poke around in there with a meter and see where the AA power is not getting to. L1 is still top of my list, with some solder bridge or other issue around that Q6, Q7, Q8, Q9 area causing it and being where I'd look next.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #381 on:** December 31, 2020, 06:15:10 PM »

Found it finally under the 10x scope. Ty.

The TP 19 solder ran a touch over onto the trace by R24 and I couldn't see it from most angles. Obviously messing with Q8/Q9.

Removing it now and will it be saveable? Or did I toast it?

RDC · « **Reply #382 on:** December 31, 2020, 06:25:21 PM »

It should be fine.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #383 on:** December 31, 2020, 07:41:30 PM »

So, I fixed the tp19 solder joint. And then new behavior....

It won't power on with the battery pack, but it will stay on if I start it up with usb plugged in. Then I unplug the usb once fired up and runs fine. Been on AA batteries for 10 mins now. So.... stable but why no start up? All buttons work under AA power also.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #384 on:** December 31, 2020, 08:01:27 PM »

Been on AA with zero disconnects for about 20 mins. All buttons including guide test fine. ??? Super solid, just won't power on with AA.

RDC · « **Reply #385 on:** December 31, 2020, 08:09:27 PM »

Least you know L1 is good now.

Follow the schematic and look around everything connected to Q8 and Q9 there. You either have something shorted in there still, or possibly damaged something in that area.

Pressing Guide turns on Q8, which turns on Q9, which turns on Q7 and that sends the AA+ to U2/U3 powering the controller up, which sends power to Q9 via J1p9 and D26 which keeps Q9 on after Guide is released. Issue has to be in there somewhere with Q8/Q9 or the Resistors around them.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #386 on:** December 31, 2020, 08:26:14 PM »

Thank you so much for your help and time. At worst I redo it and do better.

I will look there again with the scope and if not, I have a backup controller. Pretty sure I can nail it second try if all else fails.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #387 on:** December 31, 2020, 10:07:02 PM »

It's gotta be R24. It looks ok but must have failed somehow when I over soldered.

Taking the night off for New Years and back at it tomorrow.

Happy New Years from Hawaii

wickated · « **Reply #388 on:** January 01, 2021, 05:03:19 AM »

Quote from: beardawg252002 on December 31, 2020, 08:01:27 PM

Been on AA with zero disconnects for about 20 mins. All buttons including guide test fine. ??? Super solid, just won't power on with AA.

power button always start weirdly, i press it multiple times on any xo1 controller just to powerup

BryanKhelven · « **Reply #389 on:** January 02, 2021, 10:55:36 PM »

I would like to thank you RDC for all the posts here! They helped me enormously with my controller! As you said in some of the posts, we need to make mistakes to learn from them. So thank you a lot for my first error solving of this year and continue to teach us how to fix more and more errors ;D

Happy new year!

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 219939 times)