Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 427018 times)

RDC · « **Reply #210 on:** April 17, 2020, 01:30:44 PM »

Correct, TP63.

coatzavideojuego · « **Reply #211 on:** April 18, 2020, 11:50:23 PM »

can you help me i need replace d23 is a diode Schottky
i use multimeter and shows 222 v
the diode have numbers 20 or 02 but i cant find the correct replace

RDC · « **Reply #212 on:** April 19, 2020, 07:38:17 AM »

If it checks good with the meter, why replace it?

Best place to get another one is from another broken or donor board, but it's just a Schottky on the 5v rail to the Vin of U1, so just about any diode there would work.

rorschach_ · « **Reply #213 on:** April 19, 2020, 11:11:22 AM »

Quote from: RDC on April 17, 2020, 01:30:44 PM

Correct, TP63.

Thx, its normal now. Not exact center but it isnt drifting.
İ have an another problem, RT and LT both full throttling now. I didnt understand why. I broke Tp63, and i soldered LSY direct to the cpu pin but now Lt and Rt gone.

RDC · « **Reply #214 on:** April 19, 2020, 02:47:23 PM »

The spot for LT is right next to where you soldered for the LSY, so possibly bridged something there? That wouldn't have any effect on RT though.

Are they dead? Kind of need a scope to see what it and isn't working there because those things are pulsed 125 times per second and a digital meter can only get you so far there.

Are they acting like they are pulled all the time? If you removed the magnets they can be put in backwards and will act pressed all the time because the pole is reversed.

Adidab14 · « **Reply #215 on:** April 21, 2020, 01:38:32 PM »

Can anyone enlighten me as to how the circuit works that powers the controller from batteries?? I've got a controller (like many of the others on here) that only works from USB but will turn on as long as I hold down the guide. Once I let it go it loses power. Guide button works fine when plugged in but it just won't turn on the thing. I have checked the components to the best of my abilities and can't find anything noticeably wrong. I'm thinking there's a busted trace somewhere in there but am having a really hard time following the signal once it gets past R27. With all the diodes and the MOSFETs in there I can't keep track of where I should have continuity or not!
Everything looks good from the POK side on the J1 connector but I have a feeling theres a broken connection somewhere in that circuit that prevents the guide from powering on the controller.
I've scoured this forum for similar issues and found a few that are exactly the same but I've checked everything on those posts and still can't find the issue

RDC · « **Reply #216 on:** April 21, 2020, 03:37:29 PM »

Check and make sure L1 is on the board first.

The POK signal comes from pin 9 on J1. Make sure R7 is good, it's 0ohms, just a jumper but if it's missing or damaged it'll never get the POK signal to stay on. You should have continuity from pin 9 to D26, then make sure D26 is good.

Raliam · « **Reply #217 on:** April 25, 2020, 05:28:05 PM »

Hello good evening, how are you ... I hope everyone is super cool .. See if you can help me. Someone gave me a control with a problem with the right stick ... I opened it and I see that it is already repaired. And several dead tracks. Could you help me how to fix it, to make a bridge or something. After opening it and seeing that I understood why they gave it to me

RDC · « **Reply #218 on:** April 25, 2020, 05:57:55 PM »

First, clean all of that mess up and retouch all of those solder joints for the stick there, in fact just remove what solder there is at the spots marked in Red.

Remove the black and red wires, they aren't doing anything anyway.

Connect the Red marked spots together with a short jumper wire, then go from either one of those with another wire to TP103, farther over to the right side of board.

Connect the Blue marked spot to TP65, middle of board.

Connect the Green marked spot to TP71, can be seen in your pic.

Test controller and see what works or doesn't.

Raliam · « **Reply #219 on:** April 25, 2020, 07:41:43 PM »

Perfect ... Thank you very much for your quick response. I will try to do that to see if I can bring it back to life.

xkse · « **Reply #220 on:** April 25, 2020, 08:49:39 PM »

Hi

Awesome post, i've learned a lot!! I have two separate controllers with two issues.

Controller 1: RT always reads a 70% pull. Hall effect sensor should be ok as i didn't go anywhere near it. TP67 is toast and there's no more solder on it (I accidentally removed it...). Is there a way to jumper around it?

Controller 2: Right dpad button is not working at all. Looking at the controller, TP14 is a goner as well. Likewise, any way to jumper around it?

Thanks! This thread is awesome.

RDC · « **Reply #221 on:** April 25, 2020, 09:00:28 PM »

1 - You'll have to prep and solder to the via just below TP67, then go from there to the bottom side of C36 or R39.

2 - Prep and solder to the Via just to the left of TP14, then go from there to the top side of D10.

xkse · « **Reply #222 on:** April 26, 2020, 07:06:20 AM »

Thanks!! Was able to jumper the TP67 via to the bottom of C36.

The other controller....i soldered a jumper wire to the via next to TP14 and tried to solder the other end to the top half of D10. Something went wrong:

the right d pad constantly thinks it is pressed, and when i press the LEFT d pad, it turns off. And LB thinks it is pressed. Something is shorted. I removed the wire from the top of D10, but this is still happening:

Right Dpad and LB constantly on. When I press Left Dpad, the right dpad turns off (while i hold it).

RDC · « **Reply #223 on:** April 26, 2020, 10:23:06 AM »

LB isn't near DR, so the odds of those issues being related without some intervention is pretty up there. Post a couple pics of your board and where you soldered on it.

xkse · « **Reply #224 on:** April 26, 2020, 10:38:01 AM »

I also have one of those lofty PCBs on there, so i'm guessing the ribbon cable is shorted somewhere. I'll start there.

xkse · « **Reply #225 on:** April 26, 2020, 11:14:37 AM »

Yeah the LB issue isn't happening, at least in the moment.

But, DR acts as if it is held all the time, and holding DL turns off DR (but doesn't turn on DL).

Pics here:

https://ibb.co/tPQkHNM
https://ibb.co/Npz0MLW

xkse · « **Reply #226 on:** April 26, 2020, 01:18:28 PM »

Looks like i bridged the via with copper on the pcb on TP14. I removed the solder and DR is back to not working. I'll try re-soldering the jumper

RDC · « **Reply #227 on:** April 26, 2020, 05:56:28 PM »

Looks like it's shorted. Also, unless that wire has an enamel coating, like magnet wire, make sure it doesn't touch anything else in there on it's run to D10.

xkse · « **Reply #228 on:** April 26, 2020, 06:42:52 PM »

Yeah it's just a strand of copper speaker wire. I hot glued it in some spots away from the solder joint so hoping it doesn't touch anything on the way in the future.

Adidab14 · « **Reply #229 on:** April 28, 2020, 06:34:11 PM »

Quote from: RDC on April 21, 2020, 03:37:29 PM

Check and make sure L1 is on the board first.

The POK signal comes from pin 9 on J1. Make sure R7 is good, it's 0ohms, just a jumper but if it's missing or damaged it'll never get the POK signal to stay on. You should have continuity from pin 9 to D26, then make sure D26 is good.

Eureka! I think that's it! I checked so many things and they all checked out but I do NOT have continuity between Pin 9 and D26. So now my question is, how the heck does Pin 9 get to D26? As far as I can tell Pin 9 just has one trace that goes over to R4/C37 which ends up at U4. C37 also goes to EG2 and R7 which has a via that leads to ... R8\TP26? which isn't on the board on any of my controllers so I'm guessing it's not used. It also heads over to what looks like underneath Q9 but I can't get continuity on any of my controllers there so I'm not sure. I'm just trying to pin point the break so I know what to jumper to.

RDC · « **Reply #230 on:** April 28, 2020, 06:49:23 PM »

Pin 9 hits R4, R7 and EG2. R4 and R7 are both 0ohms. After R4 it hits C37 and pin 24 of U4. After R7 it goes thru a via to R8 (not installed) and to the Anode side of D26. There is a via under Q9 that connects the top trace from R7 to D26. First check for continuity from the top pad at R8 (not the one that is connected to TP26) to the left side of D26. If it still measures no continuity there, then just run a jumper wire from that top R8 pad to the left side of D26.

Adidab14 · « **Reply #231 on:** May 05, 2020, 08:04:32 AM »

After checking I found that there was a break in the trace from R7 to the via next to it. Just soldered a little jumper wire there and it works!!
Thanks RDC you are the friggin' man! You've helped me so much.

RDC · « **Reply #232 on:** May 05, 2020, 08:11:28 AM »

Welcome.

theADDict · « **Reply #233 on:** May 07, 2020, 04:15:32 AM »

Excellent generous help by RDC on this thread, so here is one that should be easy to answer...I hope.

1708 board.
fault - NO LB response

put a new switch in - no change.

Not a multi meter or electronics guy, but can check continuity....
from LB down to TP 19...seems to open close fine.

however....i check across LB solder points on a working power board I get a reading of..700 or so
across the same points on faulty board....0

so a dead cap somewhere ? or a break somewhere ?

any advice for a newb to check ?

RDC · « **Reply #234 on:** May 07, 2020, 09:08:18 AM »

Here's a bit of a tip for everyone. Don't use the continuity setting on the meter to check for continuity. I know that probably sounds wrong, but those things will all squeal if there is some Resistance there. So it may actually be 100ohms or so, but the meter will squeal and then you assume it's connected straight thru, when it's actually not. I know it's nicer to do that, so you're not having to focus on the meter, and if you want to use it to start that's fine, but then go back and use the Ohms setting and make sure it measures close to 0 ohms so you know there's nothing funky going on there.

If you're measuring 0 ohms across the LB button (same as measuring 0 ohms from TP19 to ground) then it should act like it was pressed all the time instead of being dead. How does it act in any controller testing app? Windows, HTML5, anything that lets you 'see' which buttons are pressed.

If you can measure 0 ohms from the LB to pin 6 of U4, then the LB trace should be good. Pin 6 is on the left side, bottom corner if you're looking at the board how it is in the pics in the thread here. Then measure from pin 6 to ground and press LB and see if the value changes from something really high when not pressed (over 1M ohm or open) to around 0 when pressed. If all of that checks out as described, then U4 is most likely bad.

theADDict · « **Reply #235 on:** May 08, 2020, 02:40:40 AM »

Ok mate, firstly thankyou so much for the advice and tips.

So, if this makes sense, now using top ohms setting.

Across lb.... No response
Tp19 to ground.... No response

Controller testing app..... Everything fine bar no response from pressing lb.

Pin 6 u4 to lb - no response !!
Pin 6 to ground - no response
Pin 6 to ground when button pressed - no response again !!
of course, pin 6 to LB, with lb pressed....nowt
LB to tp19 - open/closes fine

So.....question one - is the via right next to pin 6 a connection for pin 6 ? if i clean I could check pin 6 is connected to board i thought.
q2 - can I link pin 6 to lb...easiest way ? or is u4 a gonner ?

RDC · « **Reply #236 on:** May 08, 2020, 11:32:19 AM »

LB to TP19 can not open/close fine, as those two spots should be connected.

LB to ground should measure open then short when the button is pressed.
TP19 to ground should do the same.
Pin 6 to ground should also do the same.

On a working controller that is. If you have the first 2 of those measuring correctly, but the third one is where it's failing, then the issue is either at the via for TP19 on the top side of the board, the trace from that via to the via right under where it's marked EG2, or the via/trace at bottom/left corner of U4.

You'll need to peel up the top of the D-pad about 1/4 of the way to follow the LB trace. It's easiest to follow from the via under EG2, and it's the trace closest to the top of the octagon opening there. You can measure from that via at EG2 to the top of D1 to check the trace.

theADDict · « **Reply #237 on:** May 09, 2020, 02:18:12 AM »

Edited my post above to keep the thread shorter.

mods - feel free to delete this reply

RDC · « **Reply #238 on:** May 09, 2020, 05:42:16 AM »

Ground is ground. The AA battery - terminal, the USB connector shield, 3 out of the 4 solder joints for the LB/RB button are ground, they're all the same ground.

You can use any of the Ohm settings for this really, since you're just looking for a low value path to ground or not, but put it on the highest setting it has.

xkse · « **Reply #239 on:** May 09, 2020, 08:01:38 PM »

Besides TP67 and the via next to it...they're both kind of toast. Anywhere else to jumper for RT?

News:

Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 427018 times)