Need values for some Capacitors and Resistors on a Elite Controller Board

[halo2jumper]

Hi,
Ive got another elite controller to repair and found out that some resistors and a capacitor are missing. But i cant find out the values for this to order some replacements.
If anyone has some numbers i would appreciate it.

The following ones are missing:
(right analog stick top)
C39
R43
R44

:
R50 (bottom left analog stick)

[RDC]

C39 = 100nF

R43 = 22k
R44 = 33k
R50 = 1k

[halo2jumper]

Thank you very very much buddy

[Rocky1983]

Hi I’ve just found this thread would anyone mind helping me out? My elites getting way too hot and won’t turn on. I’ve stripped it and found C6 is red hot as soon as power is connected I was hoping someone could provide the value so I can order a new one.

Thanks in advance

[RDC]

It's a 100uF cap. Just remove the thing first and then see if it will power up and work, then replace it.

[Rocky1983]

Thank you for the reply I’ve managed to get it to power up however the left stick started flicking to the left occasionally. so replaced it and now it as if it’s constantly pressed to the left. I’ve tried a known good one and even tried it without a module fitted and as soon as it powers up it’s constantly going left. I’m thinking it might be time to purchase a new one. Though does anyone know if there is a schematic out there?

[RDC]

If the Left Stick is stuck in the left position, it could be a short on the LSX line. I'd suspect C24 there first, then D16, both are top side right below the stick and neither one are critical, they can be removed and if that corrects it great, and if not, they don't need to be replaced. Then it could be a short anywhere along the LSX trace, but good luck there as some of it's buried in the internal layers.

Might be there is no power to that POT. Measure the voltage on the left pin in the row of 3 for that POT, it should measure the same as the bottom one in the row of 3 for the other POT on that stick. If it does not, install a short jumper wire between them to connect them.

Stick solder lugs, view from bottom of board.

   O          O
G                   B  o
Y
V                   B  o
   O          O
      V X G

G = Ground
Y = Y-Axis Wiper (up/down) Stick at center position value will be half of V
X = X-Axis Wiper (left/right) Stick at center position value will be half of V
V = AN+ (Analog Stick Voltage) 1.8v
B = Stick Button, signal
O = Solder lugs for the stick, Ground
o = Stick button, ground

[Rocky1983]

Mate you were right I had the same voltage on the middle pin for the POT I removed the diode and it’s now reading the same as the other side. It’s still going left and now up all the time but to be honest I may have to bite the bullet and go buy another one. Thank you for your help though it was good to find something wrong

[RDC]

It's not a Diode, it's a transient suppressor, same board designator though. Messing with that shouldn't have done anything to the Y-Axis. Can you post a couple good pics of the board, top and bottom, around that Stick?

[Rocky1983]

Sorry my bad I saw “D” and assumed I’ve got a few pics there was a instance where the pad for C18 to U4 was removed so there’s a link wire in place.

Excuse the poor soldering I need to change the tip.

If the pics are no good I can try and get closer

[RDC]

No worries, it's the same designator for them as they are really just 2 Diodes together. I thought the same, but poked around in there awhile back as a Diode on the Analog line didn't make much sense, but transient suppressor does and that's how they tested.

I'm not seeing anything that could really explain how it's acting. The way the solder has balled up on the POT leads makes me wonder if a via or two might have been pulled when the old stick was removed.

Use the meter and the marked ground spot for the black lead and see if the voltages match your pic I edited. Stick kept in the center position. If you get 1.8v on either of the 0.9v spots, then you have an open ground to that POT.

The areas between the red dots are long shots. Bottom ones looks like the trace might be broken, could just be solder flux though. The spots on the right possible solder bridge between those solder joints. That would for sure make the Left stick be pressed full left.

[Rocky1983]

Yes buddy it’s just left over flux, using that point as ground I’m getting exactly what the pic says I should get. I’m thinking it could be a set up issue if that’s even possible? I’m not sure if it’s possible to fully reset the controller to test this out though as it won’t allow me to go to the settings menu. It’s a strange one isn’t it I really appreciate your help mate.

[Rocky1983]

I gave it abit of a clean up

[RDC]

If those readings were right then the only thing left is R50, bottom of board close to Y-Axis POT, then R34, top side close to X-Axis POT. But those are only 1k current limiters. You should measure the same 0.9v on each side of those things. If they were open the Stick would do weird stuff as the lines would be floating, so having them pegged in one direction is still just odd.

Are you testing this on the XB1 or a PC? just wondering if the D-pad isn't causing the up/left issue.

[Rocky1983]

I was testing on xb1 then tonight plunged it into the pc to read our values. The d pad is fine it’s a Z axis issue. I checked those resistors and getting 0.9 at both. I’m taking bets on distance I can launch it into the air haha. I did run the calibration tool in windows. I was wondering if the was a program I could use to reset it as accessories just tells me it’s up to date

[RDC]

Z-axis is the Triggers.

[Rocky1983]

Actually now you mention it I was getting left and left trigger switching in the accessories app on the pc. That was without the trigger connected now it’s connected again it just showing left but the trigger isn’t registering. I’m going to swap out the trigger and see what happens at this point there’s not much left to try haha

[Rocky1983]

IT WORKS!!! Haha thought I’d let you know I got it working. I decided to remove and re-ball U1 and after that it’s now working fine. I did have to change the stick again after I saw it was work king as the replacement got abit melted. However it’s been strange but I’m not complaining about the results. Just wanted to say a massive thanks for your patience.

[RDC]

Good deal. Really about all there was left to try at that point, since everything checked out at the stick. Welcome.

[Rocky1983]

Yeah I kinda thought there’s nothing left to loose now and it was a complete bugger to do. Do you know if there’s a schematic online anywhere for these? Or it is just trail and error?

[RDC]

Haven't seen one. It's easier to just hot air a component off here and measure it whenever someone needs a value, versus reversing the entire board, which I could do if it were worth it, but trust me, it's not. I made my own schematic for the 1537 a few days after I had that controller here, but I've no real designs on laying into the latter versions unless I get every other project I'm working on completed and then can't find anything else at all to tinker with.

[TheCodeZone]

I need to know the R58 resistor/compactor value for the elite controller as well!

[RDC]

R58 = 1k