Author Topic: JDM-040 capacitor replacement  (Read 2845 times)

Offline robotek

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JDM-040 capacitor replacement
« on: November 30, 2019, 11:23:43 AM »
Hello;
My first post here, so don't blame me too much if i'm not following some guidelines I didn't knew before.

The context: bought about 3 weeks ago a second hand dead ps4 to repair, witch was seriously butchered by a "repair shop" on the hdmi port.

After removing it, and micro soldering maybe 7 wires directly on the new hdmi port to restore the motherboard connection to various places, the ps4 is now booting, showing a nice hdmi image. Still got a couple of things to repair on the motherboard (is this a buzzer that is not far from the hdmi? and the optical connector that has also been damaged by heat). Anyway, it looks like it works. So I started my search for cheap dead controllers to repair.

The first one was working, so won't talk about it (it's only cosmetic damage, parts from china are one the way).
The second one wasn't powering, not charging, draining 0.0A from the regulated DCPSU.
After teardown, and quick analysis, nothing to see. Many people say "yeah it's the micro usb", so I purchased a couple (on the way also from china), but looked deeper on the board.
I had a short, not far from the 7736FTG chip (probably one of it's power cap, it showed me unusual look on the microscope, so decided to replace it, as it looked damaged on one of its legs). Removed the cap, and "voila" the board is now charging the battery, the light is on, sucking around 0.2A from the usb wich sounds pretty good to me.

Before spending another hour to rebuild this controller I would love to replace that cap, but wtf ? that's sony: no schematics around arrrrrrg..
I'm guessing I shall put something like 1-10uF 6.3V there, what's your opinion?

here is my capacitor missing, any help will be appreciated, and thanks for your advices.

PS: I tried to find a way to resize (reduce size because it's a bit "big" on the board, but willing to leave a high def source), but couldn't find any way to resize (I'm hosting the image source don't worry for the storage space ;-) ).

If you are interrested in my previous job on the PS4 for the HDMI rescue, I can make and post pictures, the beast is not reassembled yet, the DVD cable were salvaged by previous "repair" shop.



Offline RDC

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Re: JDM-040 capacitor replacement
« Reply #1 on: November 30, 2019, 10:14:24 PM »
Image doesn't need to be more than 1024 x whatever. It's not a really clear image anyway, and for just circling a component a smaller image would be fine.

Piezo speaker is at the corner of the board in the PS4.

Cap in the JDM-040 is 10uF, 0603 size. Voltage rating is anyone's guess, higher you go the better tough.
« Last Edit: November 30, 2019, 10:18:53 PM by RDC »
Screwing up is one of the best learning tools, so long as the only thing you're not learning is how to screw up.

Offline robotek

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Re: JDM-040 capacitor replacement
« Reply #2 on: December 03, 2019, 05:17:14 AM »
thank you;

I really needed a good reason to re-install gimp. It's done now so next time I take a pic, i'll resize ;) (not sure that "paint" can do resize).
My microscope has a camera, but I can't capture -yet- the images from it. I think i'll purchase a capture tool for the PC I use next to the microscope, so much better than taking a picture of the screen next to it...

I'll try to replace that with a 10uF probably 6.3V as it shall not have anywhere in the board over Usb power so 5V.
I'm pretty sure that the value itself is not so important, I think than anything between 1 to 50uF will work, but if you have the correct value and say it's 10, then i'm happy with it and will replace with correct cap.

I'll let you know, maybe in a week or two.

PS: how did you know about the value ? you have some kind of schematics ?


Offline RDC

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Re: JDM-040 capacitor replacement
« Reply #3 on: December 03, 2019, 07:55:19 AM »
I removed that Cap from the same version board here and measured it.

I started making a schematic for the JDM-001 way back when that was the only version board there was, but since you can't find any real info on the silicone they use it's just an irritating project. It's easier to just remove a passive component and measure it when there is a need, and if a chip needs replaced, there are plenty of knackered up controllers to get the correct parts from.
Screwing up is one of the best learning tools, so long as the only thing you're not learning is how to screw up.

 

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