Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1797 "Elite Series 2" (Read 43856 times)

RDC · « **Reply #30 on:** November 19, 2021, 02:30:05 PM »

Most likely some kind of TVS diode. Thing will work fine with them missing, so long as the pad/trace for it isn't damaged.

Autohead · « **Reply #31 on:** December 19, 2021, 08:34:46 PM »

Hello RDC you are always a lifesaver for my repairs
i hope you can provide the schematics of the bottom board od thia elite 2. i have a problem with this 3 black resistors in Q11 near the right analog module. one is missing and i tried to use the same size of resistor from other controller and yet my unit cant power on battery.

RDC · « **Reply #32 on:** December 20, 2021, 12:25:44 PM »

Could only do that after I made it, an it's not really on my short list right now as they are a pile of work and I'm sure that board is a 6 layer, so that adds a little more 'fun' to the project.

The size of the Resistor is not the only thing that needs to be considered there, the value of it is far more important. Unless it was the exact same version controller and taken from the same spot, that could cause more issues than it originally had putting just any old Resistor in there.

Does it work from the USB cable? Left it on the charger for more than an hour? Tried another battery pack?

Autohead · « **Reply #33 on:** December 26, 2021, 06:41:47 PM »

Yes the Unit is working fine on usb, battery was fully charged, charged it on another board i have,power board and battery is working fine.. I tried to replace the resistor from the nearest size i could find in a 1708 , R7.it powered up for about 5minutes then it shuts down.

I guess the value for this thing is completely different or could be something else. This model is really not a repair friendly one. analogs and bumper switch solders are a pain to suck out .

RDC · « **Reply #34 on:** December 27, 2021, 09:32:58 AM »

You need to preheat the area a bit before tackling the thru hole components as the ground planes are pulling all of the heat away.

The Resistor values in that area are 75k, 100k and 100k

TheOnlyUmagon · « **Reply #35 on:** February 04, 2022, 09:03:54 AM »

Okay I was replacing sticks on a elite series 2 board and the whole trace for j2 ripped off. I think it only ripped because someone else had attempted to repair remote before me and had already caused damage. It connects to p1 on the button board. How can I restore j2. Like what is j2? Please can someone help me! I really want to fix this remote.

RDC · « **Reply #36 on:** February 09, 2022, 02:38:45 AM »

P1/J2 is how the USB 5v gets from the top board to the bottom board. Without seeing the damage I have no idea the best way to repair it. You may have to just run a jumper wire from FT11 on the bottom of the bottom board to P1 on the top board to restore the connection.

TheOnlyUmagon · « **Reply #37 on:** February 16, 2022, 10:53:07 AM »

Quote from: RDC on February 09, 2022, 02:38:45 AM

P1/J2 is how the USB 5v gets from the top board to the bottom board. Without seeing the damage I have no idea the best way to repair it. You may have to just run a jumper wire from FT11 on the bottom of the bottom board to P1 on the top board to restore the connection.

that whole gold connector ripped off with the whole trace but i will try your suggestion first thanks

RDC · « **Reply #38 on:** February 16, 2022, 11:25:04 AM »

If that's the case then my suggestion is kind of the only way to restore the connection. Without poking around in there and looking for alternative spots anyway, which would just be the same thing, only in a different place.

Danii · « **Reply #39 on:** February 18, 2022, 05:13:22 PM »

hi
first of all, sorry my lack of knowledge, but only thing i got are symptoms from gamepad tester

on full throw:
right trigger pressed at 70% registers as 100%
left works fine

on mid throw:
right trigger works fine = registers as 60%
left trigger should be same but is 100%

on short throw:
right trigged is not registered
left registered as 100%

behaving the same with swapped magnets or hall sensors
no corrosion or missing componets
what should i look for, please?

TeddyWestside · « **Reply #40 on:** March 15, 2022, 05:04:12 AM »

Hey Guys!

I really need your help. So I tried to fix my RB/LB bumpers (on my Xbox Elite Controller S2) and I made it pretty good (personal view obviously). My problem is that as I soldered I got some solder tin on the cableport. (In the picture 1797 BUTTON BOARD BOTTOM at the right upper top: "J4").

I still got the cable in the port but while testing the bumper didn't work. So I thought I need to get the solder tin of the port or I buy a new Button Board. I tried to get it off but I failed, so I need a new Button Board.
My Question:
Does anyone know where I could buy a new Button Board or does anyone know how to get off the solder tin?

I would really appreciate your help.

Thanks in advance,
Teddy Westside

RDC · « **Reply #41 on:** March 16, 2022, 01:23:49 PM »

Post good pics of your board if you want anyone to see if it's maybe salvageable.

Should be able to find those board on eBay somewhere, I'd also hit up some of the bigger controller modding sites, as they might have some spare boards lying around for sale from controller returns, new employee training mistakes and such.

lashaa · « **Reply #42 on:** July 22, 2022, 04:00:08 AM »

Hey guys, where can I buy tca6416rtwr <-- this chip? Should it be exact same chip, or can I use alternative one? My elite series 2 controller has damage on that chip and I could not find it anywhere

RDC · « **Reply #43 on:** July 22, 2022, 08:12:33 AM »

Use the PCA6416AHF,128 you can find them at Digikey.

lashaa · « **Reply #44 on:** July 24, 2022, 11:13:19 PM »

Thank you mate

RDC · « **Reply #45 on:** July 25, 2022, 12:18:43 AM »

Welcome.

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #46 on:** August 27, 2022, 07:21:19 PM »

Hello RDC. Hope you?re doing great
I have a Series 2 controller that suddenly started registering RSX 100% to the right, I already checked db47 and it looks good. Haven?t messed around with any soldering on this controller. I swapped the pontentiometer for it but still the same.

What would be your guess here?

RDC · « **Reply #47 on:** August 28, 2022, 05:21:00 PM »

Most likely suspect is you have pulled the plating out of the thru hole for the 1.8v pin of that POT. It's on an internal board layer, and no plating in there means no 1.8v so the POT will default to being grounded, or full right. If you measure the voltage on the RSX pin and it gives you 0v, then run a jumper wire from that POT 1.8v pin to the RSY POT 1.8v pin and you should be good to go.

pappy · « **Reply #48 on:** October 19, 2022, 07:39:59 AM »

I don't know if you can help or not but, I recently replaced my left analog stick which I have done on several controllers before and now my wired and wireless connections show as unknown device. Controller powers up and I can go through the 3 profiles using the button but no USB or bluetooth connections are available. Bluetooth and USB show unknown device. Any idea? Any help greatly appreciated.

collinw7 · « **Reply #49 on:** November 05, 2022, 07:05:10 PM »

Hey all! I'm new to this and I'm just tinkering, but I need some help. The spring contact labeled J2 on the MCU board broke off with the pad and the charging or USB-C power doesn't work anymore. Is there somewhere I can wire the contact to so that it fixes the circuit or would I have to get a new board? I tried exposing some traces but I'm not sure where I need to solder a wire to.

RDC · « **Reply #50 on:** November 06, 2022, 04:55:24 AM »

J2 on the bottom board connects to P1 on the top board, which is the USBC 5v line.

collinw7 · « **Reply #51 on:** November 06, 2022, 07:39:48 AM »

I figured that out, but J2 is broken off of the bottom board and the pads came with it so I need somewhere to jumper on the bottom board to J2 that I glued back on so that the USB 5V line works again. I can post pictures if needed.

RDC · « **Reply #52 on:** November 06, 2022, 08:16:17 AM »

Bottom of the MCU board, use FT11 and jumper wire that to P1 on the top board. It doesn't need to be a massive wire, but if all you have is 30awg, I'd double up and use 2 of them.

collinw7 · « **Reply #53 on:** November 06, 2022, 08:22:22 AM »

You're amazing thank you so much! Since I glued J2 back in place, could I jumper FT11 to J2 so that I can disassemble without desoldering an extra wire?

RDC · « **Reply #54 on:** November 06, 2022, 08:25:25 AM »

Long as the glue holds you can.

collinw7 · « **Reply #55 on:** November 06, 2022, 08:29:15 AM »

Awesome. Thanks a bunch!

RDC · « **Reply #56 on:** November 06, 2022, 08:49:24 AM »

Welcome.

sharpstewie · « **Reply #57 on:** December 08, 2022, 08:23:51 AM »

Hi RDC, finding this thread has been a miracle.

I am doing joystick repairs on this controller for someone and accidentally sliced through DB50 on the motherboard. Would you happen to know what function it serves? If it?s important, what is the spec to meet? I hope to purchase the part on Digikey asap.

Cheers, and thanks again!

RDC · « **Reply #58 on:** December 08, 2022, 09:06:22 AM »

This board doesn't have designators for all of the components on it. DB50 is just a test point there at the top/left corner of the MCU. Post a pic of the damage or describe much better where the problem is.

sharpstewie · « **Reply #59 on:** December 18, 2022, 11:39:15 AM »

Sorry about that, I was confused about their silkscreen nomenclature.

I have attached a picture with the specific component circled in red north of the MCU.

https://ibb.co/8rnYKpq

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1797 "Elite Series 2" (Read 43856 times)