Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1797 "Elite Series 2" (Read 32477 times)

RDC · « **Reply #60 on:** December 18, 2022, 11:57:24 AM »

It's all good. That's a Resistor, 33ohm, 5%, 0201 size. As to what it does, no idea, the trace fraks off into the internal layers and goes who knows where.

ghepardo · « **Reply #61 on:** February 02, 2023, 11:11:29 PM »

Hello,
I was trying to replace the RB switch (I am not an expert, this is my first repair and soldering experience) and I think I screwed it up.

After 2 hours trying to remove the original switch I was able to solder a new one, but RB it is not working anymore.

I replaced two other times, but still not working: I am afraid I might have corroded/ruined some contact on the board. From these pictures here, do you think there is something I can do ?

From various tests I was able to make RB constantly pushing adding a lot of wires in the eyelets without solder so that the wires were ?filling? the gaps between the switch and the board, but it worked for less than 10 seconds and then it stopped (maybe some wires were touching together between eyelets, I can?t say).

Here are the pictures of my mess

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KUE38-izM_tbeYgLxpP5qi28LJOFDtw2/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/180REkXxhzLUmwzs4mGKyJvixxFAQBjeI/view?usp=drivesdk

thanks in advance for your help and advices!

RDC · « **Reply #62 on:** February 03, 2023, 03:24:29 AM »

Have to say, after 2 hours if that's all the damage you did, then you'll be fine with a bit more practice. That's not really bad at all as far as the damage done. You've removed D3 and R24 during the chaos, but those aren't technically needed anyway to make the thing work again.

Reinstall the new switch and solder up the 3 spots that are still good, the 3 round ones.

Then on the boogered up one, the sqaure one, solder a little jumper wire from that RB switch lead to the bottom pad just to the left there, the little one that is just above R24, or solder it to both of them, not going to matter, but it needs to be connected to the bottom one for sure.

Use as small a wire as you can, and go easy on the solder.

ghepardo · « **Reply #63 on:** February 03, 2023, 05:17:43 AM »

Thanks a lot for your answer!

So I need to create, using two wires, the two red connections I added in this picture, right ?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XnNDhDE4bH0yKXipD25kuEtLrnIM70us/view?usp=sharing

For soldering, do you suggest I use the "tin wire" I've got from this kit:
https://www.amazon.it/Ockered-manutenzioni-elettrodomestici-interruttore-temperatura/dp/B07WYLF6QV/ref=asc_df_B07WYLF6QV/?tag=googshopit-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=386514840607&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5839833630002615550&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1008463&hvtargid=pla-825996312222&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=78953294876&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=386514840607&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5839833630002615550&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1008463&hvtargid=pla-825996312222

or shall I use flux paste ?

https://www.amazon.it/dp/B09P4LJG36?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

thanks again for your help

RDC · « **Reply #64 on:** February 03, 2023, 05:29:14 AM »

Do not wire it up that way or it will just act like RB is pressed all the time. You only need 1 wire, connected to the pad JUST above R24 there, you are 3 and 4 pads up from R24 with your drawing.

No idea what you mean by tin wire. I only see the solder and solder wick in that kit, and you don't want to use that solder wick as it's far to large. The solder is most likely some rosin core, so it has flux in it already. You just need some small piece of wire to make the jumper connection from the RB lead to the pad.

ghepardo · « **Reply #65 on:** February 03, 2023, 05:49:17 AM »

Thanks a lot.

so I will create only the green wire here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1INgmUprCO1QWHYeOfhYyPx727z4OSdrr/view?usp=share_link

I was thinking to use the flux paste to try to clean the square contact to remove that dark/burned material on top, but it looks like it is not needed, right ?

Regarding soldering, I will use the solder-wire of the kit.

Again thanks for the time in helping me.

RDC · « **Reply #66 on:** February 03, 2023, 05:53:06 AM »

That's it.

The square area there is just PCB now, no need to do anything with the exception of maybe clean it up a bit with some rubbing alcohol, but that's not needed.

Welcome.

ghepardo · « **Reply #67 on:** February 03, 2023, 06:02:01 AM »

Just out of my curiosity, if the D3 is not needed, why there are those two lines connecting the square eyelet to the D3 pads (the 3 and 4 where I draw the red lines) ?

What those are theoretically meant to do ? Where can I find more about the theory of these type of circuits ? (I just need a "keyword" so I can study about it): I am too old to remember the concepts from my electronic exam at university

Thanks again

RDC · « **Reply #68 on:** February 03, 2023, 06:44:26 AM »

Only one of those D3 pads goes to the RB line, the other one is going to ground. It's just some kind of TVS Diode. The value of R24 was 0 ohms, so it was just a jumper. It's not that they aren't needed, they just aren't needed for it to work, they are more safety related things, like car door locks, you don't need those or the thing to start and get you places.

ghepardo · « **Reply #69 on:** February 03, 2023, 01:42:18 PM »

It is indeed very hard, but it looks like I managed to make it work again thanks to your help and suggestions!

Here is a pic of what I was able to achieve (which is ugly, but it is still an achievement for me

)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FHxMZ5dwFYpnMhv7Dezx6fvBBVgknQm3/view?usp=drivesdk

Sluss · « **Reply #70 on:** March 06, 2023, 02:27:13 PM »

Similar to ghepardo, I just replaced both my bumper buttons which I used a heat gun/blower to get the old switches off causing D3 to move off the contacts for it. I tried to move it back over but just bumped it free. While trying to pick it up with my tweezers it went flying somewhere. I've seen you say a bunch that D3 isn't needed but would it be worth trying to get a donor controller to replace that or should I just close up my controller? R24 didn't move at all, so based off what you said I wouldn't need to make a jumper like ghepardo but, I'm curious if it'd be worth the effort. Since it came off from a heat gun the solder for the pads is still there so I'd just need to drop it in place basically.

RDC · « **Reply #71 on:** March 06, 2023, 04:38:42 PM »

You're welcome to take the time trying to get M$ to tell you what it is, or hunt down what might be a suitable replacement. If I were repairing it for someone else, then I would get one from a donor board, but that's all really just wasted time for that particular component.

Ovchar · « **Reply #72 on:** March 09, 2023, 03:22:20 PM »

Hey,

Does anyone know manufacturer/pn of hall sensor (U7/U8)? Or alternatives that are proven to work?

Thanks.

RDC · « **Reply #73 on:** March 09, 2023, 05:02:30 PM »

They're the same A1304 they've been using on all of the other controllers.

Nick_Sparkle · « **Reply #74 on:** March 16, 2023, 02:23:41 AM »

I?ve replaced the stick but it not registering? I?ve done a jumper from db63 and tried it on all 4 of the button pins, but it?s still not registering? I know it not the stick as this is the third I?ve tried on it . Any help would be really appreciated

RDC · « **Reply #75 on:** March 16, 2023, 03:24:02 AM »

Which stick? and what about it is not registering?

Finally you say you're messing with DB63, which is for the RSC button, so the only conclusion one can draw is RSC is not working and everything else works fine. If RSC doesn't activate when you ground DB63, then the trace from DB63 going under the stick is open or it's the RSC trace is open somewhere between there and the MCU or the MCU has an issue.

Nick_Sparkle · « **Reply #76 on:** March 16, 2023, 04:35:25 AM »

Yes the right stick centre is not pressing , ,correct . I?m getting continuity when I run a jumper from the pins. I must have damaged underneath when taking the stick off

Nick_Sparkle · « **Reply #77 on:** March 16, 2023, 04:42:21 AM »

if i run a jumper to db63 does it matter witch of the 4 pins it is? yes it is the centre button not worrking. i

RDC · « **Reply #78 on:** March 16, 2023, 04:47:17 AM »

If you ground DB63 and the RSC does not press, then the issue is between DB63 and the MCU.

_SOMEGUY · « **Reply #79 on:** April 03, 2023, 12:23:47 AM »

Hi Guys,

I'm hoping you can help me out.
I'm repairing my 1797 that has the old random power off fault.

I was unable to save the center resistor attached to the DB7 test point on the power/uC board (just below/left of the left thumb stick)

could RDC or someone please stick a meter on it and let me know the value.

the bottom one measures about 28k7 for me.

Cheers

RDC · « **Reply #80 on:** April 03, 2023, 04:06:38 AM »

The one circled is 44k, but is more likely a 44.2k precision, 1%
The one below it is 30k, also probably 1%

brzozex · « **Reply #81 on:** April 19, 2023, 04:41:38 PM »

Hi Guys,

I need some help. I replaced both analog joysticks, but when i put everything back together i noticed that the left trigger rumble is not working.
After inspection i have found one component missing (see attached photo). Could this be the reason??

https://photos.app.goo.gl/m5SRiKh31397sco96

RDC · « **Reply #82 on:** April 19, 2023, 04:51:56 PM »

Yep. It's a 33ohm Resistor, replace it and you'll be good to go.

brzozex · « **Reply #83 on:** April 19, 2023, 05:19:01 PM »

Thanks for helping out, what size i should buy (sorry i'm not familiar with smd sizes)?

RDC · « **Reply #84 on:** April 19, 2023, 05:21:21 PM »

slick0805 · « **Reply #85 on:** May 07, 2023, 07:38:48 PM »

Does anyone know the measurement of the cap to the top left of the marked resistors?

RDC · « **Reply #86 on:** May 08, 2023, 04:08:21 AM »

100nF should work fine there.

slick0805 · « **Reply #87 on:** May 08, 2023, 10:59:14 AM »

Does the voltage matter or will any 0201 100nF work? Thanks for the help!

RDC · « **Reply #88 on:** May 08, 2023, 01:56:25 PM »

It matters, though no idea what voltage is on that line exactly. I'd go with a 10v or more to be safe and it should be fine.

DoublesAdvocate · « **Reply #89 on:** May 11, 2023, 03:20:48 AM »

Sorry for the somewhat off-topic post but I tried to send @RDC a DM and couldn't get past the year challenge for some reason, and I figured it would be better to just post here rather than creating an entirely new thread just to ask a question.
I'm trying to contribute some PCB scans to the PS community but I'm not really sure of the best way to get high quality scans the way you've done for the controller PCBs. I tried scanning them on my normal scanner but just got a massive mess, are you using a scanner or are you just taking pictures and stitching them together in post. Could you share some tips on how you get them to look so good?

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1797 "Elite Series 2" (Read 32477 times)