XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1797 "Elite Series 2"

[RDC]

Top part is some kind of TVS diode, not needed for it to work. The bottom one is a Resistor, 33ohm and does need to be there.

[weindochnicht]

Thanks for the help!
I have bought the resistor and managed to solder it on the board. Now the RS button works again!
You are great! Thanks again!

[RDC]

Welcome.

[Xsander]

Hi all! found a lot useful info here, hope you can help!
I have replaced left analog stick on my elite series 2, but i think i broke some component on the board during that.
When i plugged in controller battery it won't turn on. When i connected usb-c cable, that little thing gave me some smoke and sparks. So i found it was shorted.
then i desoldered it(actually cracked off, i don't have hot air unfortunately), and i think it was the only issue, because this thing was damaged a bit in process of replacing stick .
Controller can now be turned on, obviously my sticks are not working, left in top left position, right in bottom right position, all other buttons work. (Right stick reacts to movement a bit, left don't react at all)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mhqrstjImJdllSGNucylzVARLTJF_cNg/view?usp=share_link
This is my first time experience like that, was a bit hard to desolder old stick without hot air, so it looks messy, but i hope i didn't broke anything else.
Can you please help identify that component? there is C132 sign on it
component on reference picture
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MKU1nleJP0d9Gm5BLbUVb60W3FETM5cC/view?usp=share_link

pics of what i actually have
https://drive.google.com/file/d/17U7CdHEsVfhxC69y1PzgW8VHK8SXJJXj/view?usp=share_link
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ARMJyp690fn_vaQTza1MZtwf2MnzxmMh/view?usp=share_link

[RDC]

C132 isn't causing that issue with the sticks and the controller will work fine with it missing. You can put anything from 10uF to 22uF there.

The only way for the sticks to do that is if you shorted all 4 of the analog lines to ground, or the more likely cause, have no power going to the sticks. Best guess from the images is a short on the one solder joint there touching the ground plane, the one that has 3 times the solder of the others on it. Resolder and clean that one up and retest.

[Xsander]

C132 isn't causing that issue with the sticks and the controller will work fine with it missing. You can put anything from 10uF to 22uF there.

The only way for the sticks to do that is if you shorted all 4 of the analog lines to ground, or the more likely cause, have no power going to the sticks. Best guess from the images is a short on the one solder joint there touching the ground plane, the one that has 3 times the solder of the others on it. Resolder and clean that one up and retest.

thank you a million for maintaining this thread! Will try and come back!

[Xsander]

thank you a million for maintaining this thread! Will try and come back!

Unfortunately after cleanup and resoldering that pin, nothing changed. i tried to measure, and i really don't have power on that stick.
for measures i used your message with stick solder lugs

   O          O
G                   B  o
Y
V                   B  o
   O          O
      V X G

On right stick i measured ~2v on both V pins, but no voltage for that pins on the stick im working on(left). maybe i need to look for shorts somewhere else?
i didn't put anything instead of c132, should i short it's pins with some wire?(that's stupid idea probably) i don't have replacement for that in place for now
EDIT: is it possible that i damaged something in internal layers when desoldered stick? by the way click button on new stick is working, so at least there soldered correctly 

[RDC]

Voltage at POTs on the stick should be 1.8v on the outside lead, ~0.9v on the middle lead and 0v (GND) on the other outside lead.

The traces for the LSX, RSX and AN+ voltage are on the top layer, so you could have pulled the plating out of the holes and now they aren't making connection on top to the leads. Jumper wire from one of the the left stick V spots to one of the right stick V spots, doesn't matter which, and see what happens.

[Xsander]

Voltage at POTs on the stick should be 1.8v on the outside lead, ~0.9v on the middle lead and 0v (GND) on the other outside lead.

The traces for the LSX, RSX and AN+ voltage are on the top layer, so you could have pulled the plating out of the holes and now they aren't making connection on top to the leads. Jumper wire from one of the the left stick V spots to one of the right stick V spots, doesn't matter which, and see what happens.

I did that
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fbNVmpIp4-mswr_S2D6WLpTQWXXMhMzo/view?usp=share_link
but no luck, controller power led is turning on, then goes off and on again, then recognized for 1-2 second and then just stay white led and not recognized by pc.
Im testing it without battery, just 2 main boards and type-c cable to pc.

[RDC]

That wire could be shorted on the ground plane at the right stick there from the looks of it. It's not going to work great even if you get that fixed, as you've also ripped J3 off the board there.

[Xsander]

That wire could be shorted on the ground plane at the right stick there from the looks of it. It's not going to work great even if you get that fixed, as you've also ripped J3 off the board there.

wire not touching board from side perspective, anyway i tried to do that again with no luck. Looks like something shorted somewhere but i don't know where to look.
j3 fell off many times ago, as i understand it is wireless antenna connector, gamepad works with it broken with reduced range, but 2m is ok for me. That happened  when i tried to fix face buttons almost a year ago, this thing just felt off. QC of this controllers is just something else btw...
Thanks a lot for your suggestions, i have money to buy new controller, this is just something for challenge 

[Xsander]

Well, i think i completely broke this board, so will leave it for now. Anyway it was interesting experience, maybe i will sometime come back and buy new board and solder hall effect sticks there.
Thanks RDC for your help!

[ShadowFX88]

Hey all!

This thread has been amazing! but alas I have a different issue. I have 2 controllers that won't turn on. one board had smoke coming from under the ARM chip that burnt a trace to a resistor that I believe was shorted. So, I will have to attempt to remove that but if I read this thread correctly its programmable so I can't just purchase any chip, I'll have to find a donor board in a worse state. The other board has power on both boards, but it still won't turn on. I have tested SW14 and its working. I have found a missing resistor on this board just left of the Arm Chip, but when I tried to take it from the other bad board, I lost it, and I don't know what its value was. If anybody else has further suggestions on what to check when it won't boot up, I'm all ears.


Picture link incase it didnt load.
https://1drv.ms/i/s!Ah1gNLs1LYxmgp5Wzucy-5RXFWA3Jw?e=k49Ncl

[RDC]

That one is a 0ohm jumper.

[elgwido]

Hi,

So i'm trying to fix a board i got off of ebay. Looks like DB38 and a couple components above it were knocked off when removing the analog stick. Anyone know what these 3 components are?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/14RtPN0ukwQ_ekF3ckDkBOvuFnnb7AV9x/view?usp=drive_link

[RDC]

DB38 is just the test point there to the left.

Large component is a 4.7uF Cap (6.3v or more),

Smaller ones, left is a 1uF Cap (4v or more), right is a 1k Resistor.

Resistor is necessary or the LSY will not work, the Caps are optional and the uF values aren't really critical.

[elgwido]

DB38 is just the test point there to the left.

Large component is a 4.7uF Cap (6.3v or more),

Smaller ones, left is a 1uF Cap (4v or more), right is a 1k Resistor.

Resistor is necessary or the LSY will not work, the Caps are optional and the uF values aren't really critical.

That did the trick! Thank you so much for your help.

[RDC]

Welcome.

[zkun1970]

Excuse me, the back of the board J15 where the back button is installed on the computer can not be used, but the back key module is easy to use, how to repair

[RDC]

How to repair what exactly? Post some pics of the damaged area.

[Groove Harder]

Hi,

I was replacing the left thumbstick module and manged to lose the pad shown in the attached pic top and bottom. Am i right in saying that I could just run a jumper from the pin as shown?

https://imgur.com/a/fl9rtXA

Thanks in advance!

[RDC]

Correct.

[Groove Harder]

Thanks, RDC.

[jazpexjones6i9]

Hello everyone I have an issue where my r3 is pressed down all the time how would I repair such a problem controller never was opened. It just literally started doing this yesterday

[KeptWolf769]

Is there any Page for 3rd party controllers like Turtle beach recon and Powera controllers? My turtle beach recon has unresponsive triggers after replacing both sticks and can't trace the fault. Any possibilities?

[Halotestin92]

Hello, I installed the K-Silver TMR analogue but after testing I noticed that unfortunately no matter what I did the right analogue went crazy in such a way that it suddenly went downwards. To get it back to normal only re-calibration helped. I wanted to replace the sensors with the Ginfull TMR but I noticed that the K-Silver has integrated magnet holders with the rest of the analogue so I re-installed the K-Silver TMR and the problems started. The right analogue suddenly points completely to the lower right corner, it only reacts to upward movement but this happens when I tilt the stick downwards.. the solder pads are fine and I have no idea what happened here. I have already replaced a huge number of analogues in different controllers but this is the first time something like this has happened to me. I replaced the right TMR analogue with the original ALPS and still the same. Can anyone help?

[FrankieDedo]

Hello, I installed the K-Silver TMR analogue but after testing I noticed that unfortunately no matter what I did the right analogue went crazy in such a way that it suddenly went downwards. To get it back to normal only re-calibration helped. I wanted to replace the sensors with the Ginfull TMR but I noticed that the K-Silver has integrated magnet holders with the rest of the analogue so I re-installed the K-Silver TMR and the problems started. The right analogue suddenly points completely to the lower right corner, it only reacts to upward movement but this happens when I tilt the stick downwards.. the solder pads are fine and I have no idea what happened here. I have already replaced a huge number of analogues in different controllers but this is the first time something like this has happened to me. I replaced the right TMR analogue with the original ALPS and still the same. Can anyone help?

Hi, i had a very similar issue, but i can't fathom what happened. I mangled the pads on the right X axis center pin, but i managed to successfully reroute it. Everything seems connected and i already tried three different K-Silver sticks. The left stick and the right Y axis work perfectly, but the X axis seems to send a -1.0000 signal (so stuck to the left) by default, but moving the stick to the left makes the signal "inverted" and stuck to the right, (1.0000). It even started working for a while, when i was testing it, but then it just stopped. I can't trace back the issue to some of the component and it seems no SMD component is missing. What could it be?

I also found that the EG35 component is missing (the board was already damaged by the previous owner) but that seems to be related to the back charging connectors so probably doesn't impact the Y axis. What is EG35 anyway? it looks like a diode to me but i'm not sure since it seems it connects a GND bus plate to a VCC bus plate (but the charging seems to happen anyway)

EDIT: i found that when if i bring the stick on the left veeery slowly, i manage to find a little area where it responds "linearly" and i manage to center it (even if it almost all the way to the left). However, the response is inverted and it's like is overly sensitive to inputs.