Author Topic: JDM-055 (1-982-707-31) Schematic (Read 90754 times)

RDC · « **Reply #120 on:** May 23, 2023, 06:46:25 PM »

C60 = 33pF

Ecran · « **Reply #121 on:** July 06, 2023, 12:57:52 PM »

Hello RDC. Great thread and info! As someone requested earlier, can i please have the capacity value for the C1 capacitor?

RDC · « **Reply #122 on:** July 06, 2023, 01:13:35 PM »

C1 = 2.2uF

murabat · « **Reply #123 on:** July 08, 2023, 04:42:55 AM »

I am not getting 3.2V on connecting battery or charger. Battery voltage as well as 5V from USB are showing up at at PMIC. Vcore voltage is also available.

I don't think I need to turn on the controller to get 3.2V. Given the situation, is it safe to assume that the PMIC is gone?

Another puzzling thing is that battery voltage being 4.1V is showing up as 3.44V and .66V at the voltage divider of R60 and R59. I believe it should be 2.05V and 2.05V. I de-soldered the resistors and checked them individually and both read 150K. There is no other resistor in line anywhere so I don't know what is going on. Any idea?

RDC · « **Reply #124 on:** July 08, 2023, 05:00:10 AM »

Remove C63 and recheck the voltage divider output. If it's good, then C63 is bad, if it's still low then the MCU is suspect.

murabat · « **Reply #125 on:** July 08, 2023, 08:16:41 AM »

Quote from: RDC on July 08, 2023, 05:00:10 AM

Remove C63 and recheck the voltage divider output. If it's good, then C63 is bad, if it's still low then the MCU is suspect.

C63 is already removed. It is still the same.
If the MCU had issues, Vcore should not be there?

RDC · « **Reply #126 on:** July 08, 2023, 10:10:19 AM »

So, every vehicle with a running engine can drive too then? The only place that voltage divider goes is the MCU, hence if it's being loaded down the issue is most likely in the MCU.

murabat · « **Reply #127 on:** July 08, 2023, 11:26:42 PM »

Quote from: RDC on July 08, 2023, 10:10:19 AM

So, every vehicle with a running engine can drive too then? The only place that voltage divider goes is the MCU, hence if it's being loaded down the issue is most likely in the MCU.

Does MCU send some signal to PMIC to make 3.2V?

RDC · « **Reply #128 on:** July 09, 2023, 12:18:46 AM »

No idea what the specifics of it all are, though once the battery is plugged in I'm sure there is some back and forth between the MCU and PMIC. The 3.2v rail is on all the time though, so it can tell if you have pressed the PS button and provided the battery voltage is high enough and the MCU can tell what it is.

murabat · « **Reply #129 on:** July 09, 2023, 08:39:15 AM »

Quote from: RDC on July 09, 2023, 12:18:46 AM

No idea what the specifics of it all are, though once the battery is plugged in I'm sure there is some back and forth between the MCU and PMIC. The 3.2v rail is on all the time though, so it can tell if you have pressed the PS button and provided the battery voltage is high enough and the MCU can tell what it is.

I guess this one is for the parts bin then. Thanks for your help.

RDC · « **Reply #130 on:** July 09, 2023, 08:47:05 AM »

Welcome, but you should experiment a little then, not like you can really make it any worse. You might learn something that will help diagnose or repair other boards down the line. I'd leave that divider off there and inject 2v right onto A25 of the MCU just to see what happens.

russoedu · « **Reply #131 on:** July 25, 2023, 12:14:34 AM »

Wow, this is brilliant! I'm creating a DIY hitbox using a PS4 controller with this board and found this post (this is my first message here).

Even though I did my time studying PCBs, I'm far from you guy's level.

I was able to map all buttons to connect to the hitbox and I think it might be of some help to other people trying to figure what is what: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Po5w3ThsIeH8I0sv7uOpvaqe8imJ-8i0/view?usp=sharing (it's a PSD file with layers for each button, you can use https://www.photopea.com to open and on the right, click to view each layer)

I'm still unsure how to to work with the share, option and trackpad buttons... can someone help me with this? Will I need to remove these "tiny mini micro pressure buttons or are there some mini terminals I'm not seeing?

Thanks!

RDC · « **Reply #132 on:** July 26, 2023, 06:59:25 PM »

Option button has a small pad just under it that could be used, easier to just pry the top off it and solder to the center contact though. Similar for the Share button, but it's little pad is on the other side of the board, again just easier to remove the top of the switch. For the TP, just wire to the bottom left lead of it. All of those buttons use Ground for the common.

If you are not going to have the FPC (Flexible Printed Circuit) connected to the main board, you need to install a couple of Resistors on the main board to 'mimic' that it is on there, or the L2/R2 will act weird and cause odd issues with the controller.

russoedu · « **Reply #133 on:** July 26, 2023, 11:53:39 PM »

Quote from: RDC on July 26, 2023, 06:59:25 PM

Option button has a small pad just under it that could be used, easier to just pry the top off it and solder to the center contact though. Similar for the Share button, but it's little pad is on the other side of the board, again just easier to remove the top of the switch. For the TP, just wire to the bottom left lead of it. All of those buttons use Ground for the common.

If you are not going to have the FPC (Flexible Printed Circuit) connected to the main board, you need to install a couple of Resistors on the main board to 'mimic' that it is on there, or the L2/R2 will act weird and cause odd issues with the controller.

Thanks, yeah, I'll pull that little push button and see what's below it

I intend to solder directly to the "main" PCB, this is why I did the schema of what connections go where. I imagined I would need to use something to trigger the analogic shoulder buttons as I want them to act digital.

Thanks for your reply!

vacaf · « **Reply #134 on:** July 31, 2023, 01:33:16 PM »

Hi guys!
My controller stopped working and now it doesn't start even if I plug it to the console. The battery voltage drops to 0.3V and I have seen CPU gets a bit hot (with alcohol) and that capacitor C37 (I know it's 10uF) is shortened. Could it be just cap fault or the IC is damaged 100%?

Also, can I remove it and leave it like that (at least to just press PS button once) or do I need to replace it? I've seen it's next to L1 inductor and I suppose it's a filter or similar but a guy on YT just removes it.
Thanks!

RDC · « **Reply #135 on:** July 31, 2023, 01:37:50 PM »

You can remove C37 and test, but that Cap should be replaced if it is bad.

vacaf · « **Reply #136 on:** August 01, 2023, 02:54:11 AM »

Thanks for the reply.

I've removed C37 and the problem is still there, even its pads are short-circuited, does this mean chip is damaged?
Also I don't know if I have measured continuity and capacitance properly but I think C8 and C16 are short-circuited too

Thanks

RDC · « **Reply #137 on:** August 01, 2023, 05:00:12 PM »

C16 is on the 3.2v rail, so there are about 12 other caps and eihter of the large ICs that could be shorted instead of that.

vacaf · « **Reply #138 on:** August 09, 2023, 10:01:28 AM »

Sorry I wrote it wrong, it's C6 and C8 the ones that are short-circuited. Now I've seen C5 and C7 are in the same condition.

As they are part of the RF circuit, is there a something else to check or its better to buy a controller with maybe a broken joystick?
Thanks

RDC · « **Reply #139 on:** August 09, 2023, 10:10:17 AM »

C5, C6 and C8 will measure a couple of ohms with a DMM, that's not a short and is normal for that circuit if it's tested on the board like that. There is no C7, that is L3 in the schematic, need to fix that. That one will measure like a short as it's an Inductor.

vacaf · « **Reply #140 on:** August 09, 2023, 02:28:35 PM »

Then I don't know what else to check. All capacitors and resistors are fine but I get 0.3V and it doesn't start.
I don't know if I'm measuring wrong but I removed C37 and there is still a short circuit between it's pads

RDC · « **Reply #141 on:** August 09, 2023, 02:32:10 PM »

The PMIC is suspect if there is a short there, U2.

vacaf · « **Reply #142 on:** August 09, 2023, 02:47:16 PM »

So the solution would be change the PMIC right? I've seen it's on AliExpress but I don't know if it's complicated and it's better to buy another board with a broken joystick or similar

Also I've checked all rails and no shorts there

RDC · « **Reply #143 on:** August 09, 2023, 06:37:47 PM »

No idea if that's all that could be wrong with it or not. Might replace that and it works fine, or after replacing it that might uncover another issue.

ToneAU · « **Reply #144 on:** October 23, 2023, 01:07:46 PM »

Wow, great work on the schematic, must be a few hours buried into that.
I?ve come across this thread as I have been looking for a solution to implement a mic mute button or switch into this model controller. I?ve previously tried options using resistor and caps to ?ground? with limited success. These methods will mute ok but I?ve not been able to overcome the ?pop? as the mic mutes/unmutes.
I see in this schematic the dsp/pmic has a mic mute leg. Do you think this can be used for what I am trying to do or cant you see another option?

RDC · « **Reply #145 on:** October 23, 2023, 06:55:47 PM »

Labeling that mic mute was really just a guess. Grounding that pin will for sure mute the mic, but you'll still get that pop doing it that way. It's impossible to get a mic to mute with no pop by just pressing a button or switch, unless there's all kinds of other components involved. Even some really good setups that don't cause a pop use all kinds of other components, and then don't actually mute the audio completely, they just knock it down, or attenuate it, so far that it 'sounds' muted, but it's just really quiet.

ToneAU · « **Reply #146 on:** October 23, 2023, 08:12:39 PM »

Ok, cool, thanks for replying.
What started me down this path was I was looking at a friends Strikepack which can mute the mic without any of the pops etc. As the Strikepack connects the controller to the PlayStation via usb, I cannot know if the muting is happening within the Strikepack or wether it?s commanding the PS to mute.

Ilegator · « **Reply #147 on:** October 24, 2023, 03:44:42 AM »

Thank you so much for the schematics, amazing work.

Can anyone help me with this please?

I have a JDM-055 with no power/no charging.
I get the main 5V but no power in secondary lines.
I think all of them are OL. No shorts.
What could be the issue?

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/923823288592007178/1166299035817213982/image.png?ex=6549fb9e&is=6537869e&hm=e61eab54e50afe9f00f9293bda4b147f67c7d91fd671d63bd0ba5cb7d154f327&

RDC · « **Reply #148 on:** October 25, 2023, 06:39:47 AM »

Does the controller work if you put a charged battery from another controller in it?

boa · « **Reply #149 on:** December 07, 2023, 08:50:22 PM »

For JDM-055,
Any chance you could share a 3d file of it, I'd like to fit it in my 3d printed hitbox.
Just the outline will be sufficient since I'll only need the holes location to make 3d standoff posts.

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Author Topic: JDM-055 (1-982-707-31) Schematic (Read 90754 times)