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Controller 1 - I'd suspect Q8 on the Top board is shorted or acting weird. Controller 2 - Check the Diode at D26 on the Top board, if it's good after that I'd suspect Q9 and then go down the line from there.
When it's connected via USB to a PC it should turn itself on. If you have tried a known working top board, then there could be some short on the bottom board or a problem with the MCU.
J6 pin 4 or TP9 are the 3.3v rail on the bottom board. Should draw around 10mA by itself when the 3.3vis injected, no top board plugged in.
That's the antenna, use a spot like TP21 or the metal frame of the sticks for a ground connection.Measure the voltage on J5 pin 11 before you inject the 3.3v and see what it does while injecting it. As soon as the 3.3v is injected J5p11 should jump up to ~3.3v and then cut out after a second or two. If you see no voltage at all then there's either a broken trace from J5p11 to pin 83 of U1 or the U1 is bad.
If you have the 3.3v on J5p11 for a couple of seconds then it's connected to U1p83 still.
Next, I measured the appearance of a 3.3 V potential for 2 seconds on pin 11 of the J5 connector (when applying a 3.3 V voltage to TP9), not observed.
That's the antenna, use a spot like TP21 or the metal frame of the sticks for a ground connection.1. As soon as the 3.3v is injected J5p11 should jump up to ~3.3v and then cut out after a second or two.2. If you see no voltage at all then there's either a broken trace from J5p11 to pin 83 of U1 or the U1 is bad.
I'd suspect U1 is at fault then, but have never seen this exact issue before.
Last time I went hunting for a DS for that thing there was nothing around. It's some chip made by Freescale. L1 is responsible for sending the 3.3v to the MCU, it has to get thru that thing to power U1. Just replace L1 with a jumper wire for testing first, since it's exact value isn't really critical.