XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim"

[Ortillson]

I got two more questions:
1.What is the size package for R1?
2.If replace it with bigger value like 0.22Rwill it work?

[RDC]

It's 0603 (1608 Metric) size.

0.22R isn't written correctly as the R is used sometimes instead of the decimal, so that means 0.22. which isn't a value. You just want to use the decimal or the R, so 0.22 or R22 mean the same thing, and yes that value would be fine. You could really put anything 1ohm or less there and it would still work. Can even jumper it straight thru for a test if you like before getting any parts.

[Amorik]

Hi! Can someone lead me in my little problem?
I have an Xbox one controller 1708 and it has some kind of problems with range of radio connection
It works perfectly through Bluetooth, but if I connect it to Xbox it works only near console. I thought that antenna was disconnected, but it?s not. I?m bad at diagnosing by myself, but can do it with instruction or lead

[KeptWolf769]

The upper Soldering pads for my RB button came off, can anyone help me? It does not work at all now, Is there anywhere I could link it to make it work?

[RDC]

The bottom 3 are ground, top one you can jumper wire over to the bottom side of D3/C29.

[Greendaycolt]

Hey RDC hope all is well!

I have a 1708 MCU board (looks brand new..) where the joystick push button mechanisms work but the XY directional inputs on both do not register anything, nor do the triggers. The "B" button works. Any idea what could be the issue?

[RDC]

Those things don't really have anything in common, except the MCU reading them as analog inputs. If nothing on the entire board looks suspect, then try a firmware update.

[Greendaycolt]

Sorry for late reply - I think the website here was down for a few days. Firmware update fixed the problem. Thanks again, RDC!

[fatc2k6]

What could cause both triggers to be activating 100% as soon as the controller is powered up? I know the issue is with the mcu board as the issue remains with a known working power board.

[RDC]

Regulator for the Triggers U9, or any of it's support components, C3, C32, C33, C35, C37, R38 or R40 or it could be the MCU not sending the signal to that Regulator. Could be U10 or U11 is shorted also, or any number of other things that I haven't seen before.

[fatc2k6]

Regulator for the Triggers U9, or any of it's support components, C3, C32, C33, C35, C37, R38 or R40 or it could be the MCU not sending the signal to that Regulator. Could be U10 or U11 is shorted also, or any number of other things that I haven't seen before.

Thanks , i shall check these points with my scope and dmm.

[Worf]

As far as the 'whistling' goes, look around the DC-DC converter that does the USB 5v to 3v, U1. Could be that Inductor is going bad, it has some other iffy part or it's getting loaded down wrong.

No AN+ to LSY = full Up movement.
No GND to LSY = full Down movement.
No AN+ to LSX = full Left movement.
No GND to LSX = full Right movement.

Make sure both POTs have the AN+ (1.8v) and ground they need. AN+ is on TP103 there. Also make sure none of your jumper wires are touching each other or any other solder joints in there.

Hi. Replaced left analog stick and I have full right movement. No small missing smd components around.  Checked voltages, I have on both pots 1.8v and gnd. If pressing L3 will move slightly to opposite side. Disconnetting the pot will return to the center and the up/down pot will work fine but of course no left/right movement. what to check next? Can you help?

EDIT: Sometimes It's not full right movement, in gamepad tester I can see it's behaving like there is drifting.

EDIT 2: Checked R42, 100 ohm.

[RDC]

R42 is for the LT.


Check the voltage from Ground to the middle pin of the LSY POT with it at center, and also while moving it.

[huggies99]

SOC board C51 - 100nF

[Greendaycolt]

When desoldering a broken micro USB port, I accidentally ripped the nearby traces for it (Vcc, D-, D+ and GND). Is it valid to get each of those from J1/J5 and wire directly to the new port?

[RDC]

It would work, but I wouldn't do it that way as you bypass the common mode choke and fusible resistor.

[thyaguster]

I would I go about using the SOC removed from the MTU board?
Need to wire it to a Raspberry, usually if I use the whole controller I just connect them from the usb port, but since I only need the SOC and space on the project is scarce I would just wire up the SOC if possible.

Or at least connect the MTU board only..

[Mackerel]

@RDC and others. Thank you for your helpful posts. I accidentally ripped off the pad of my RB button, but successfully soldered a jumper wire to TP20 using your photos and advice. I didn't know there was a way to bypass the original pad to another pad located somewhere else. This was the 5th time I've had to replace my RB button. I hate this thing. Hopefully, the switches I bought from Digikey will last longer than another batch I bought elsewhere. Such a crapshoot of suppliers.

TP20 is just a pad, there is no hole or via under that, and if you end up tearing that off the board you'll find soldering to the pad of U4 to get it going again a far bigger challenge.

The vias are full of solder mask, so you're not putting a wire thru any of them without using a pin vise and tiny drill bit to clear the hole first and then removing the solder mask around it to expose the copper.

If you aren't using 30awg size wire, you should be, and then use some hot glue to secure it in place after you have it where you want it. Do not glue right on top of the solder joint you made, but back from the joint just a little bit.

Good solder flux makes things go a bit smoother, depending on what you're soldering. For sticking a wire to a TP spot on that board, it's not really going to help out that much, and if it does then the solder you're using is most likely not a good rosin core type.

Conductive ink is alright, though it's better used where you are trying to keep the repair as low profile as possible, where a bunch of wires to make the repair might cause issues. It's also no good for trying to rebuil the eyelet where the RB lead goes, the wire end wrapped around that once is a far better option.

Not sure why you're going from the RB lead to TP20? You can go from the RB lead to the bottom of D3 and C29 for a much shorter run.

The large spring contact is just another ground, and there are already 2 ground connection in the J1 connector, so as long as that is plugged in that spring contact isn't really doing much.

I'm checking in after 2 years, 2 months, and 16 days later, which is actually quite a long time for a bumper button to last for me, after RDC's info and help in soldering a jumper wire from my RB button to TP20 (like a noob) because I accidentally ripped the main pad. It's been working great ever since, but finally decided to become randomly unresponsive, losing input while held down. My LB button is cracked on the upper portion of the hollow circle and is much looser compared to the RB. Both bumpers are manufactured as a single plastic piece, with two hollow circles in-between them that creates 4 very narrow "bridges", which can easily be stress fracture points. Common problem. I also think the LB is randomly unresponsive as well, but I won't know until I replace this entire piece of crap bumper.

Just checking in to say thanks again. I might decide to solder new tactile switches again for the third time, and maybe jump to the joint under D3/C29, like RDC suggested.

On the flip side, the joysticks have been super tight the entire time, until I rushed through Fallen Order and Jedi Survivor for the first time. So many interactions with the stick buttons (sprint and various other interactions) that my sticks are actually looser now. Such a stupid in-game design choice. Just use a context sensitive 'A' button you idiot devs. And this is after playing Monster Hunter World very regularly, which doesn't require joystick buttons at all.