XBX/XBS Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1914

[RDC]

Don't recall saying to check for Resistance. Resistance checks should always be done with no power applied to the board, the meter could be damaged doing that.

Take just the top board alone, unplug it from the bottom board, and plug up the USB cable to it and plug that into the PC for power. It should power up for you to check the voltages on the bottom side of it. Check TP35 and TP37 and see what they are.

EDIT: Shortcut for all of that, if the LED on the controller works, then the 3.5v is good. Been awhile since I've dinked with that 1914 version. That 3.5v does the Rumble motors as well as power the LED, so if the LED is working then you have the 3.5v rail.

[jacobporter87]

The LED does have power as it should

[RDC]

I'd start poking around the top board at Q10, Q11, R37, D2 and just in that general area to see if anything is missing or looks damaged first. That 3.5v comes from U6, and the LED works so you know U6 is good, but then it has to get thru Q10 to power the Rumble motors, and Q11 turns on Q10 and so forth and so on, so I'm kind of suspecting something in that bit of the circuit to be damaged, might not look it, but somethgin there seems off or there would have been 3.5v at TP7 on the bottom board.

My 1914 power board here was stripped of all the components awhile ago or I could get you some values for comparison. If you have another 1914 controller there using it for checks would help narrow down where the issue is.

[jacobporter87]

I will check it out, thank you for the help.

EDIT: I believe I have it narrowed down to a fault somewhere on the MCU board. I changed power boards with another 1914 and the problem still existed. If it helps, I had just done a stick replacement on the left analog. However I can't remember if the no rumble problem was existing before the change.

[RDC]

You'd have to booger the board up pretty good to kill all 4 Rumble motors while changing the left stick, or wound up with some solder splash all over something that is causing a short now that should be easy to see. Since another power board gives the same results, it could be one of the rumble motor controllers has shorted and is keeping that 3.5v from being down there on TP7, and if that's the case then one of them should be warm enough to the touch to tell. Top side of the MCU board, U4 and U5 are those chips.

[jacobporter87]

I'll take a look to see if some solder went somewhere it shouldn't have. I did replace the heavy motor to no difference, ill try the others.

EDIT: So I changed both U4 and U5 chips and the problem still exists. I've verified rumble is turned on via Accessories app. I did solder the positive lines to the various TP outlined in your schematic, and I was able to get power to them even if only a little. I'm at a loss here on this one. I appreciate the help, wish I wasn't such a novice at board level diagnosis.

[vagana]

Hi RDC!
Can you please help me with my controller? my controller wont turn on.
I connected the controller with usb cable it did turn on but for a while. I put on the batteries and it did turn on but it went off. when I conect the usb the controller makes a sound like if its receiving power making. Another thing I notice is that the cable j5 that goes up to j2 and the cable it is a bit cut.

 

[RDC]

jacobporter87 & vagana - Take just the top Button/Power board alone and plug it up with the USB cable and check the various TP spots for voltages, specifically TP35, TP36, TP37 and TP38.

[jacobporter87]

Apologies I'm just getting back to this, I was just going to sell it off. I decided to come back to it. Here are my readings for the test points:

TP35 - 2v
TP36 - 3v
TP37 - 2.2v
TP38 - 2 3v

[RDC]

Something weird going on there as TP38 should be 5v, which comes right from the USB. I'd remove D25 and check TP38 again, see if the 5v is there or if it's still low.

[jacobporter87]

Will do, I'll let you know.

EDIT: I'm getting 3.9v once taking off D25

Just playing around, I put the positive wire on the left trigger to TP107 and it is working nonstop. I'm not sure if there is a way I can jump the wires to test points or not, but maybe that could help figure something out.

[RDC]

No idea why you're putting anything on TP107, that bottom board isn't supposed to even be plugged up for these tests. If you're going to go sticking this and that to random TP spots, don't be shocked when you find the one that turns the controller off, permanently.

The 1914 version board I had here was stripped long ago, so I don't have one for doing any real comparison checks or measurements. Check TP13 on the top board, that for sure should be 5v. They have this version changed up a bit from how the 1708 works. That TP38 is after Q13, but find it odd there would be that much drop across that thing.

[jacobporter87]

I sometimes I just go playing around after looking at schematics on things that aren't a big deal to me. But I for sure want to try and figure this out, so I'll avoid that.

TP13 was 3.9v

[RDC]

That's real odd. What are you plugging this USB cable into?

Check the voltage on each side of R1, just at the USB-C connector.

Is anything on the top board getting warm?

[jacobporter87]

I have it plugged into a desk USB dock right now. Plugged directly into the Xbox, it topped out at 4.6v

Averaging 5v on both sides of R1

I'm not feeling anything getting warm either.

[RDC]

OK, 5v on both sides of R1 and 3.9v at TP13 is contradicting, because the bottom side of R1 goes to TP13. If that's actually happening, then I'd suspect a bad via or trace from R1 to TP13 somewhere.

Could also be that R1 is loose and putting the meter on it is making a proper connection. That's one that will get you just about every time where testing the thing it all checks out good but nothing still works right.

[jacobporter87]

Well unfortunately, I just had the component right next to R1 short out, so now USB connection isn't working. If you feel the rumble issue is on the power board, I'll progress with getting a new board. It still works by battery so it's not a terribly big deal.

[RDC]

To which side of R1? C40 or CR1? In either case, just remove it and keep on troubleshooting.

Any Rumble issue is going to be on the Bottom MCU board. All the Top Power board does there is send the Motors the 3.6v they need, but the MCU turns all of those Motors on/off via the U4 and U5 chips.

[jacobporter87]

To the direct left if looking straight at it between R1 and Z4

[RDC]

C40, lose it if it's shorted.

[jacobporter87]

I did, it completely ripped one pad off from the short/spark

EDIT: I just wanted to say thanks for trying to help me figure this out. Unfortunately this morning it just wouldn't power on despite battery working last night. I decided to move on from it. I did learn a few things though.

[Eyeball_40]

Hello, hoping someone can help. I have a series controller that powers up and syncs fine but will only stay connected to the console when it's right next to it. Any ideas on where to check for a fault? I know the MPU controls the power fir battery's and USB use but does it also control the Microsoft wireless and Bluetooth as well? Bit stumped with this controller. Thanks

[RDC]

@ jacobporter87 - No worries, welcome. Added a rough schematic of that top board, in case you want mess with it anymore or run across another one. It's nowhere near complete, but a little better than going at one again with nothing.


@ Eyeball_40 - Was anything done to the controller? Anything?

[Eyeball_40]

@RDC nothing at all.

[RDC]

Interesting. You can try the 'easy' things, new batteries, see if there is a firmware update for the controller, power cycle the XB1, but if other controllers are not having the same issue the last one is kind of a moot point. The wireless is all done in the MCU, so unless the antenna cables have come unplugged or those antenna circuits have been damaged in some way, it usually comes down to the MCU having an issue.

[Eyeball_40]

That?s what I was afraid of. I opened it today to check inside and there is nothing with the antennas. Another faulty mcu on a series s controller. These chips are made of cardboard it seems. Damn proprietary chips. Such a shame that they made the chip handle so much on the controller, it brings repairability right down.

[HyperMax]

Greetings! Can you please tell what is u2 chip? It has mark pM

[RDC]

U2 on the bottom board there is a 74AUP1G125GW. As of now, there is one of those on every version of the bottom board, except for the 1537, and on the 1697 it's marked HM5, but it's still a 74AUP1G125.

[HyperMax]

Thanks a lot!

[RDC]

Welcome.