XBX/XBS Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1914

[RDC]

You're looking for LSC, Left Stick Click.

Top side of the board, make sure R16 is there, 33ohm. After that it goes to TP42 (bottom side) and after that it's off to the MCU board where it may or may not go thru another Resistor before getting to the actual chip.

[atarisoul]

You're looking for LSC, Left Stick Click.

Top side of the board, make sure R16 is there, 33ohm. After that it goes to TP42 (bottom side) and after that it's off to the MCU board where it may or may not go thru another Resistor before getting to the actual chip.

THANKS, I have the 1914 fully working now!!!!!!!!   Stupidly I thought the C in LSC was centre. I had a feeling it was R16 from your excellent schematic for the 1708 but as I thought it was to centre the stick I got confused.

Thank you ever so much for your help and the documentation

Merry Christmas  

[fibis11]

someone tried to install rapid fire on xbox one series card 1914 controller

[Worf]

Hello again.

During left analog stick replacement I lost C20 and maybe other caps. Unfortunately I can't find high-res pcb scans, I'm not 100% sure if C5, C15 and C14 are present, I think only C20 is missing. Controller works perfectly fine in wireless mode, but has lost usb detection.

BTW what values are these caps?

[RDC]

C5, C14 and C15 are all not installed.

C20 missing would cause no noticeable issues. It's most likely something between 1nF to 1000nF if you want to put something in there, really isn't going to matter at all as it's just one of several decoupling caps on the 1.8v rail for the Analog sticks.

[alexzai89]

Guys, I have a question.. I brought a faulty with an attempt to repair it. The problem is that Left Stick always point up when power on even after i remove the left stick from the PCB, it still point up when i test with gamepad tester. Anyway to test what the cause of it?
BTW, i also accidently remove the cap on C37, will it affect anything?
Thanks in advance.

[RDC]

With the stick removed the Analog line could do any number of things.

LSY stuck up sounds like the LSY line is either grounded somewhere or there is no 1.8v on the LSY POT.

C37 missing isn't going to cause any real issues.

[alexzai89]

Hi RDC, thanks for the prompt reply. another question from me is let's say that the line is not grounded, can i just fly a wire from AN+ to LSY POT?

[RDC]

LSY is up/down, I got those backwards for some reason, posts edited. All 4 POTs share the same AN+, so you can just jumper from the LSX AN+ lead to the to the LSY AN+ lead.

[kemalicecek]

Hi everyone,

I want to add a paddle for button B, I am not very good of understanding electronics. This is what I understand, I should solder a button between TP41 and GND. Am I right?

[RDC]

TP41 on the Button/Power board, no. 

TP41 on the MCU board, yes.

[ndanielh]

Can you help me to find thes two trace??



https://postimg.cc/mtrhsGHQ

[RDC]

Top one is ground. Bottom one is the 1.8v for the POT there. You can just jumper wire both of those right to the other POT there.

[fibis11]

hello, has anyone had success in installing rapid fire xbox one series controller? model 1914 RT is not accurate, any ideas?

[alexzai89]

With the stick removed the Analog line could do any number of things.

LSY stuck up sounds like the LSY line is either grounded somewhere or there is no 1.8v on the LSY POT.

C37 missing isn't going to cause any real issues.

Hi, i just recently got back to this controller.. I trace the voltage at LSY POT, i notice that it shows 2.0V instead of 1.8V, is that normal or something wrong with it?

P.S: the LSY Pot still pointing up left (11 o'clock) after i solder back the Analogue stick.

[RDC]

I have no idea how you are measuring that voltage. If you are measuring the 2 outside leads of the POT then it should be 1.8v exactly, check all 4 of them. If that still measures 2v then the battery in you meter is what I would double check first.

[notpoopler]

Can anyone please tell me what the top left component is outlined in red? (top left of the 4 black components marked with "20" near the antenna connectors) I had a brand new 1914 Series X controller sitting as a spare for 8 months and I finally opened it up today to put a new housing on and start using it and immediately noticed the component in question was snapped off on the left side. The leg of the component itself is broken so I couldn't solder it back in place.

Does anyone have any idea what this part is? And if I should be worried about it? The controller works fine. All buttons and rumble motors work. It's just bugging me because I'm not sure if I should be worried about it or not. Really don't want to replace it if I don't have to because I hate soldering such tiny components. Thanks guys.






The one I outlined is the one that was broken off. The leg on the left was snapped off completely from the component itself. Brand new controller out of the box that came bundled with the series X console. Can't return it because it's been in my closet in the box for 8 months.

[RDC]

It's one of the 4 steering diodes there for the USB data lines. It will work without it, but if you're going to be plugging up the USB cable to it then it would be best to replace it. No idea what the exact specs are, best to get a replacement from another controller board.

[notpoopler]

It's one of the 4 steering diodes there for the USB data lines. It will work without it, but if you're going to be plugging up the USB cable to it then it would be best to replace it. No idea what the exact specs are, best to get a replacement from another controller board.

Oh that's great to hear! So I can still charge it with USB right? It seems to charge when I try. I never use it in wired mode personally so it's not an issue if it's just to do with DATA and not power. Thanks so much for response btw this has been bugging me all day!


edit: The cable I charge with is a power only cable too. It has no data connectivity so I should be fine charging it without replacing that shifting diode right? Really not down to do that job as those antenna connectors get in the way and they're super easy to rip off the board when trying to disconnect them. If it's not going to harm the controller further then I'm content just to leave it as it is. I'm not great with electronics but I'm assuming that if the cable I use to charge doesn't even have data lines then there's not going to be any chance of further damaging it?

[RDC]

If the USB cable is just 5v and ground then it should be fine.

[alngr_]

Hello, I'm begginer on this. I have a problem with DL sw9 it doesn't work, can it be solved or should I buy a new controller?

[vektro3]

Hello guys,

i have a strange problem..... when i plug any antenna cable in connector of black circle then T2(in red circle) is getting shorted and hot so it stops working....

Any idea how can i fix it? I suspect ARM....

Controller is working with antenna's connector unplugged J2 but it cant be connected wirelessly....

[SergFir]

That trace is the RSY line, it just runs under the expansion port. C23 is just a decoupling cap on that line, you'll never really notice it missing. It's 10nF, 0201 size, anything 4v or more will work if you want to replace it.

Guys, I have a question.. I brought a faulty with an attempt to repair it. The problem is that Left Stick always point up when power on even after i remove the left stick from the PCB, it still point up when i test with gamepad tester. Anyway to test what the cause of it?
BTW, i also accidently remove the cap on C37, will it affect anything?
Thanks in advance.

With the stick removed the Analog line could do any number of things.

LSY stuck up sounds like the LSY line is either grounded somewhere or there is no 1.8v on the LSY POT.

C37 missing isn't going to cause any real issues.

C5, C14 and C15 are all not installed.

C20 missing would cause no noticeable issues. It's most likely something between 1nF to 1000nF if you want to put something in there, really isn't going to matter at all as it's just one of several decoupling caps on the 1.8v rail for the Analog sticks.

I have the same problem. After replacing the right stick and connecting the controller to the XBOX, the cursor constantly moves in the direction of four o'clock (to the right and slightly below). If you hold down the crosspiece button, the movement stops, but it does not move anywhere. If remove the stick, the problem remains. Checking with a multimeter, I found that the resistor R16 is broken and the capacitor C24 is out of order.

Also, I do not find (or do not see even under a microscope) C 15, C5, capacitors. But reading the messages, I realized that they were not.

C10, C20 capacitors may also not work, they behave strangely when measured with a multimeter. But judging by the message, they should not cause problems.

Attempts to return the stick to the board did not help - the issue is still present.

I'm going to buy a used xbox one (2 or 3 revisions) as a donor of resistors and capacitors for my controller.

Tell me, what else can I check or do to restore the operation of my controller?

Thanks.

[RDC]

With the stick removed the Analog lines are floating and will do all kinds of weird things. Look for broken traces and pads where the stick gets soldered. If any of those are intermittent or open you'll have issues.

[SergFir]

With the stick removed the Analog lines are floating and will do all kinds of weird things. Look for broken traces and pads where the stick gets soldered. If any of those are intermittent or open you'll have issues.

Will do today after work. Thanks

[jacobporter87]

I have no vibration from any of the rumbles, what could be causing this?

Thanks!

[RDC]

Since that question is rife with no real details... Controller not turned on. Whatever you're connecting it to doesn't support it. Rumble is disabled in the dashboard. Issue with the 3.5v rail.

[jacobporter87]

True, details would help. It powers on normal, triggers work. Whether wired or wireless, I get no rumble feedback. All the inputs work as well. I'm connecting it directly to a Series S console

[RDC]

Provided Rumble is enabled then, the 3.5v rail is what I'd look at since all that it really does is power the Rumble motors. Check the voltage on TP7 of the bottom of the bottom board and see what is there.

[jacobporter87]

Thank you, I will try that and get back with results.

EDIT : Forgive me if I'm wrong here, I'm still  very new to board diagnosis and voltages. I put my tester in resistance mode, and it was reading around 590. Any volts setting would read 0.