Author Topic: DualSense 5 Controller PCB Scans (Read 78776 times)

serg · « **Reply #210 on:** November 16, 2023, 02:43:21 AM »

Hi all! I've knocked down a resistor, can anyone tell me what resistor it is?

RDC · « **Reply #211 on:** November 16, 2023, 04:24:51 AM »

That's not a Resistor, it's an Inductor, ~1uH. It's for the 5v input from the External port, so if you don't change the thing in a dock, you don't need it.

serg · « **Reply #212 on:** November 16, 2023, 04:53:21 AM »

Quote from: RDC on November 16, 2023, 04:24:51 AM

That's not a Resistor, it's an Inductor, ~1uH. It's for the 5v input from the External port, so if you don't change the thing in a dock, you don't need it.

1uH 10% 0603 (SMI0603FT1R0K-Hitano)

Thank you! will this one fit?
I just want to restore a broken element, but I don?t know what kind of element it is

RDC · « **Reply #213 on:** November 16, 2023, 05:43:10 AM »

No idea what the specs are of the original part, but I'd put something with a little higher current rating in there, around 1A or so.

serg · « **Reply #214 on:** November 16, 2023, 06:52:11 AM »

Quote from: RDC on November 16, 2023, 05:43:10 AM

No idea what the specs are of the original part, but I'd put something with a little higher current rating in there, around 1A or so.

I can't find it with these parameters...
Could you send me a link to this inductance, please?

RDC · « **Reply #215 on:** November 16, 2023, 06:56:22 AM »

1A or so doesn't mean exactly 1A, anything around there should work, 800mA to 1.2A for example. You can look on DigiKey or Mouser for parts like that to get specific part numbers.

serg · « **Reply #216 on:** November 16, 2023, 10:00:46 AM »

Quote from: RDC on November 16, 2023, 06:56:22 AM

1A or so doesn't mean exactly 1A, anything around there should work, 800mA to 1.2A for example. You can look on DigiKey or Mouser for parts like that to get specific part numbers.

Inductor ~1uH 800mA to 1.2A

I tried to find it but in this size I can?t find it... without this the induction will not work?

RDC · « **Reply #217 on:** November 16, 2023, 10:17:58 AM »

You don't even need that part unless you use a dock to charge it.

You also didn't look at DigiKey, becasue there are 22 of them that are 0603 within those specs.

serg · « **Reply #218 on:** November 16, 2023, 10:27:11 AM »

Quote from: RDC on November 16, 2023, 10:17:58 AM

You don't even need that part unless you use a dock to charge it.

You also didn't look at DigiKey, becasue there are 22 of them that are 0603 within those specs.

Thank you! Did I set the filter correctly? I use the charging dock

https://www.digikey.pl/en/products/filter/fixed-inductors/71?s=N4IgjCBcpgTAnBaIDGUBmBDANgZwKYA0IA9lANogDM8sALAKwgC6xADgC5QgDKHATgEsAdgHMQAX2KwADAA4A7FFBpIWPEVIVwAAgCtACRbsukEAFVhgjgHl0AWXyZcAV375J0%2BXOUhO3S2s7R2c3D2IXbgBBEGIAWxFuGQA6H3jMAA9uMGTYSQkJIA

RDC · « **Reply #219 on:** November 16, 2023, 10:32:37 AM »

Any of those would be fine, just always tick the 'In Stock' checkbox first, as half of those aren't really there.

Manavie · « **Reply #220 on:** November 21, 2023, 08:10:24 PM »

Quote from: RDC on November 14, 2023, 04:34:47 AM

There is no reason to step up the 1.8v to 3.3v as that will just add more parts and complexity to the setup. There is already a 3.2v source in there that the Touchpad runs on, and tapping onto that for a micro shouldn't be to much for it, if it needs to be run at a higher voltage. Now if it will work at 1.8v, then all the better, but you need to dig into the specs of that more, as I know that some chips that say they will work on 1.8v have a nasty secret of only running on that lower voltage AFTER they have been started up on 1.9v or more, which means that it will NOT work from a 1.8v source.

Ah I see, I'm working with a BDM-030 board, where would I find the 3.2v for the touchpad? Most chips I've seen that I can easily access work with 3.3v, so I'll try to work with that. Providing 3.2 shouldn't be too much of an issue right?
Also, in that case, what would be the best way to go about doing the L3 and R3 then? I can use the built-in PDs to keep it at ground, but I'm unsure about how I would send the high to the board. Sending a HIGH from the programming would put it at 3.3V no? Instead of 1.8v. Unless I'm misunderstanding how it works.
Thanks

RDC · « **Reply #221 on:** November 21, 2023, 10:28:00 PM »

On that BDM-030 board, top side, the top/left corner of it, there is a TP spot just under the last 0 where it has the BDM-030, that's a 3.2v spot.

The PU or PD are for Inputs only. No need to make your micro L3/R3 work the same way as the controller ones, you can just set those up to be active Lo like the rest of the other buttons for it. That just keeps things on the input side and the code for it all easier.

The Outputs of the micro going to any controller button lines, you'll want to set those up as Inputs (Hi-Z) so they don't interfere with how the controller works. Then in code you'll change them to Outputs and drive them Lo/Hi when you need to 'press' them, then back to Inputs again so they go 'unpressed'.

When you drive the micro Output lines Hi, they will go up to pretty much whatever the VDD of it is, 3.2v in your case. For the L3/R3, easiest thing to do is just make a couple of voltage dividers to knock down the 3.2v the micro will output to a max of 1.8v, and a couple of 10k per button will get you 1.6v which should be enough to activate them. Micro Output to the first 10k to L3, second 10k goes from L3 to Ground. Then do the same for the R3 with a couple more Resistors.

If you're worried about nuking something, you can always use some Switch ICs to do all the button pressing so the micro and controller logic voltages are more isolated.

viewrush · « **Reply #222 on:** December 15, 2023, 06:00:12 PM »

Thank you so much for giving me good information first. I lost the circled part. What is smd? capacitor 01005?(bdm-010)

viewrush · « **Reply #223 on:** December 15, 2023, 06:26:17 PM »

https://pin.it/7XMHQor

RDC · « **Reply #224 on:** December 15, 2023, 06:37:59 PM »

Haven't pulled one off the board to confirm, but it measures around 4.7uF on the board. It's just on some VDD rail, so it's not a critical value. Toss a 4.7uF or 10uF in there, 0402 size, 10v or so should be fine.

viewrush · « **Reply #225 on:** December 15, 2023, 07:57:02 PM »

Thank you so much for your quick response.
?감사합니다. ?

viewrush · « **Reply #226 on:** December 15, 2023, 08:03:03 PM »

I have one more question. Is the marked capeceter in the picture below important? Can I know the specification of the smd? and, the x button on the main board seems to be a short circuit, but it keeps running straight
https://pin.it/32dra3l

MACTEP · « **Reply #227 on:** December 20, 2023, 01:06:03 AM »

Hi guys!
Please help. Replaced the 3D analogue with DualSense 5, BDM-010
After which the gamepad was no longer detected on the console and in Windows.
Flashes yellow three times and that's it.
What could be the reason? Do you have any ideas?
https://youtu.be/YILz3JS6LFs

RDC · « **Reply #228 on:** December 20, 2023, 12:32:44 PM »

@ viewrush - That cap isn't needed for anything to work. No idea what you are asking about the X button.

@ MACTEP - I haven't seen 3 blinks before. 2 blinks means it isn't detecting the battery. What did you do to it exactly? Post pics of your board.

Garbonzo · « **Reply #229 on:** December 20, 2023, 08:01:18 PM »

hello

is it possible to connect an LED to the 010 to match the light pattern of the one thats embedded in the board?

RDC · « **Reply #230 on:** December 20, 2023, 08:24:02 PM »

Technically, but you need more than just some LED to make that work.

It would be easier to remove the onboard LED and just wire it up to extend it to wherever, or even light pipe the onboard one to the new place.

MACTEP · « **Reply #231 on:** December 20, 2023, 09:57:26 PM »

@ MACTEP - I haven't seen 3 blinks before. 2 blinks means it isn't detecting the battery. What did you do to it exactly? Post pics of your board.
[/quote]

Initially I replaced 3Danalogs
I took it in for repairs, but they couldn't do it.
But they said there was a problem with the power controller.
I would order a controller on Aliexpress, but I don?t know how to change it?
Most likely you need a hairdryer.
Does anyone have any experience?

RDC · « **Reply #232 on:** December 21, 2023, 05:02:01 AM »

I did some tinkering with a BDM-010 here, and I can make it blink 3 times like that, if I short the 1.8v rail in there. There could be some solder splash around the sticks causing it, or one of the Trigger flex cables could be damaged.

Try it with both Triggers unplugged from the main board and see if it will power up. If not, then look around the board for a short on that 1.8v rail.

Do an Ohm measurement on that 1.8v rail to ground, just pick any one of the stick POTs and measure the 2 outside leads. It should be around 500ohms, with the Triggers unplugged. With them plugged in it should be around 400ohms.

MACTEP · « **Reply #233 on:** December 21, 2023, 09:49:03 PM »

I disconnected the triggers and connected only the board and battery. Still the same, blinking three times.
I'm a regular user, I can't find the tire you were talking about.
At the moment I ordered the DA9087 chip
Then I?ll take it to a repair shop and they?ll replace it, I hope this helps.

Garbonzo · « **Reply #234 on:** December 22, 2023, 12:21:05 AM »

one more question please. Is it possible to make use of the L3/R3 buttons without removing the analog modules? Id like to avoid installing pots or resistors if at all possible. I soldered on a ground wire tonight and used it to test contact points so i would have a better idea of what im doing but the L3/R3 buttons were the only ones i couldnt activate.

RDC · « **Reply #235 on:** December 22, 2023, 01:53:41 AM »

@ MACTEP - If that controller worked before you changed the Sticks, then the DA9087 should still be good. Be interested to hear of that fixes it.

@ Garbonzo - Please use the default font size. The L3/R3 are not active Lo buttons, they are active Hi. They do not go to ground when pressed like all the other buttons, they go to 1.8v when pressed. Just wire up your new L3/R3 to the bottom of the board where the original L3/R3 is soldered. The top 2 solder joints are 1.8v, the bottom 2 are the L3/R3 button line, just pick one of each.

MACTEP · « **Reply #236 on:** December 22, 2023, 03:54:18 AM »

@RDC
I'll be sure to let you know in January when I receive the controller.
In the meantime, I bought a new gamepad, oh my God, how expensive it is...

Garbonzo · « **Reply #237 on:** December 22, 2023, 07:22:56 AM »

I see, okay thank you very much 😊 i think ill be able to finish my project with confidence now. Just gotta pray i dont mess up the soldering haha.

ponzifex · « **Reply #238 on:** December 26, 2023, 01:59:05 PM »

Hi, I'm new to this controller modding, but I have a PS5 controller and I want to convert mouse movements to analog stick movements using a PC and an Arduino. Should I use DAC or digipot for this?

viewrush · « **Reply #239 on:** December 26, 2023, 07:46:13 PM »

Hello. First of all, the question is that the x button is still active and that it keeps working even though the cap is removed from the previous question. It got better after heating up the main chip using a dryer. It's grounded again. Another question from the controller is that the creation button doesn't work at all, is there a reason?
(bdm-010)

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Author Topic: DualSense 5 Controller PCB Scans (Read 78776 times)