Author Topic: DualSense 5 Controller PCB Scans (Read 77670 times)

synrg · « **Reply #30 on:** December 31, 2021, 06:56:33 AM »

Really thank you! This helps me a lot

AuxCart · « **Reply #31 on:** August 21, 2022, 12:55:01 PM »

Hey. Do you happen to have the Mic Mute button mapped out? I'd love to use that thing for a project. Thanks!

RDC · « **Reply #32 on:** August 21, 2022, 01:18:14 PM »

Just use the little square pad right at the Mic Mute button, it's easier than using the via for it. The Create and Option buttons are the same way and have that square pad at their buttons also, I just marked the via for them as it's close to them, the via for the MM button isn't near it.

AuxCart · « **Reply #33 on:** August 22, 2022, 02:56:39 PM »

Quote from: RDC on August 21, 2022, 01:18:14 PM

Just use the little square pad right at the Mic Mute button, it's easier than using the via for it. The Create and Option buttons are the same way and have that square pad at their buttons also, I just marked the via for them as it's close to them, the via for the MM button isn't near it.

If you could forgive my ignorance, do you mean this one here?
This is extremely helpful, thank you.

RDC · « **Reply #34 on:** August 22, 2022, 03:15:17 PM »

Yup, that's it. It's an active Lo button and the DS5 logic is 1.8v, so if you're interfacing it with some chip it's best if it runs at that voltage.

AuxCart · « **Reply #35 on:** August 22, 2022, 03:55:32 PM »

Quote from: RDC on August 22, 2022, 03:15:17 PM

Yup, that's it. It's an active Lo button and the DS5 logic is 1.8v, so if you're interfacing it with some chip it's best if it runs at that voltage.

No worries. I'm actually modifying an extremerate board, so it should just work. Thanks for the help!

LORDCHECHE · « **Reply #36 on:** September 08, 2022, 10:51:21 AM »

Hi, while replacing the stick in my controller I accidentally took out a capacitor that connects the rumble trace with ground. I was wondering if its necessary and what value does it have. Thanks in advance.

sedris · « **Reply #37 on:** September 20, 2022, 08:36:57 PM »

Quote from: RDC on August 22, 2022, 03:15:17 PM

Yup, that's it. It's an active Lo button and the DS5 logic is 1.8v, so if you're interfacing it with some chip it's best if it runs at that voltage.

I'm waiting for your review on the bdm-030 board. Approximately when to expect?

RDC · « **Reply #38 on:** September 21, 2022, 03:10:42 AM »

Approximately some time after I have one here to look at.

ZhenyaKa · « **Reply #39 on:** October 28, 2022, 12:40:35 PM »

Can anybody help with usb data-lines resistanses?

Now I have 11.7K and 1.6M there (to GND)

Gamepad works,but doesn't recognised by usb-cable in Windows (unrecognised device). Are datalines of main CPU dead?

I've replaced Dialog DA9087 chip with zero result.

Gamepad consumes current 6mA then 110mA and when goes to zero consumption

RDC · « **Reply #40 on:** October 28, 2022, 03:05:33 PM »

The DA9087 does nothing with the USB data lines, it does the Power Management and Trigger motors.

Those lines measure around 1.4M to ground here, so that 1.6M seems fine, but that 11.7k is no good at all. Make sure the USB connector isn't full of something conductive, but aside from that about the only thing left is the MCU.

ZhenyaKa · « **Reply #41 on:** October 28, 2022, 05:06:22 PM »

Quote from: RDC on October 28, 2022, 03:05:33 PM

The DA9087 does nothing with the USB data lines, it does the Power Management and Trigger motors.

Those lines measure around 1.4M to ground here, so that 1.6M seems fine, but that 11.7k is no good at all. Make sure the USB connector isn't full of something conductive, but aside from that about the only thing left is the MCU.

Thanks for your fast reply. I removed one zero-resistor (where 11.7k) and measured resitance to CPU directly - reuslt the same

FarronFaye · « **Reply #42 on:** November 08, 2022, 07:50:11 PM »

So I've been looking at the photos posted of the PCBs and Vias and I think I have a rudimentary understanding of how the basic solder points work for this but I wanted to ask a few questions. I'm totally new to working on a padhack, pretty much my only experience is soldering a new pin connector on my ps2 controllers PCB to replace the split wire on the port of the controller. My main experience with soldering is in Gameboy mods, and while I'm fairly good I wouldn't put my knowledge as anything spectacular.

After Evo Japan this year I want to make a new fight stick, and I want to use the dualsense PCB to do it. So my question for you, is when looking at/working on a PCB, how do I identify the points in which I am able to solder a ground wire to? How many can be daisy chained to a single ground point? And do I need to worry about getting resistors or anything for this?

If I'm asking in the wrong place, my sincerest apologies. I figured I had time before I start this that I can start studying what I need to know and learn before I tackle it in the spring. Thanks for any help that can be provided!

RDC · « **Reply #43 on:** November 08, 2022, 08:37:53 PM »

Ground is, well ground. If it's a board that you have never worked on, start with some part of it that you know has to have a standard ground connection, like the battery or the USBC connector on there. The entire shield of that thing is Ground, so then you can poke around with a meter from there measuring continuity to many other spots and find other grounds. TIP: Use Ohms to double check if you use the continuity to see what goes where, as meters will still beep thru a low resistance value and that's not the same thing as a direct connection. There are ground spots all over the board, as that's usually what most of the copper on there is for, from where the sticks mount to just about half of every capacitor on there is connected to ground.

You can daisy chain pretty much all of your buttons off of a single ground, minus the L3 and R3 buttons as those are active Hi. They go to 1.8v when pressed, so if you are wanting to duplicate those buttons you will need a minimum of 3 wires for those 2 buttons, one that is 1.8v that will be the common for both the new L3 and R3 then one wire each for the actual L3 and R3 or just do 4 wires with 2 going to each.

The L2 and R2 are Analog, but most people just make that Digital so when the new button is pressed that ends up being the same as a full L2/R2 pull. Those are also technically an active Lo like most of the other buttons are, so all you need to do is just ground the L2/R2 line to make those work. You can put a 100ohm or so Resistor on each of those lines if you wish, but it's not required. If you go stripping the controller down as much as possible, then for sure you'll start having to put this and that in place to make up for the missing things, but if you keep as much of it as possible intact and are just wiring up new buttons to it then things usually end up easier.

FarronFaye · « **Reply #44 on:** November 09, 2022, 03:43:49 PM »

Okay, so I generally understand most of what your are saying. I can definitely get comfortable with the board and test areas for common ground, thank for explaining it I think I can confidently attempt to look for it on the board at this stage.

I'm curious about what you mentioned for L3 and RE. You said I would need a wire that is 1.8v that will be the common. I'm not quite sure what this means. May I ask you to elaborate a little? I assume because the voltage changes when pressed I need to set up a wire that helps with this, but I don't quite know what that would entail. Thanks for your time!

RDC · « **Reply #45 on:** November 09, 2022, 03:57:31 PM »

Most controllers have buttons that are active Lo, that is one side of the button contact is ground, so when the button is pressed the button line (the other contact) then goes Lo. The L3 and R3 of this controller are the opposite of that, they are active Hi, they go up to 1.8v when they are pressed. The easiest thing you can do is to just solder 2 wires for each L3 and R3 to the new L3 and R3 buttons.

If you look at the bottom of the board for the BDM-010 in the first post, there are 4 solder joints for the L3 button. The top 2 are soldered to a large trace that also goes to the LSY POT, that's the 1.8v in there for L3, as well as other things in there, then the 2 other solder joints are the L3 button line. Pick 1 top and 1 bottom joint and those 2 connections will go to your new L3 button. Then just do the same on the R3.

FarronFaye · « **Reply #46 on:** November 09, 2022, 04:17:09 PM »

Excellent, makes perfect sense. Thank you so much for explaining. I'm going to start hunting through listings for controllers with the older boards and hopefully get to testing in the next month!

LethalPrime · « **Reply #47 on:** November 10, 2022, 10:33:39 PM »

BDM 030 VIAS

tawy · « **Reply #48 on:** November 28, 2022, 03:51:06 AM »

Hello,

Is it possible to make a Dual Sense hackpad without having to connect the BWL-0xx board, If yes, can you share get the L1/L2/R1/R2 vias on the motherboard and the pinout from the ffc connectors with the "10k/7.5k setup" to make it work ?
I want it to be cleaner as possible. I understood the need of the 1k resistor to replace the neutral position of each potentiometer, and if they are active low, it's perfect !

Thank you.

RDC · « **Reply #49 on:** November 28, 2022, 06:05:53 AM »

The first post has been updated with some information on that.

tawy · « **Reply #50 on:** November 28, 2022, 08:36:01 AM »

Thank you for the update, i will keep it and add the 1k resistor for each L and R input then

I am goind to try without it just to check if the controller is still recognized by the console or my computer.

tawy · « **Reply #51 on:** December 02, 2022, 05:22:00 AM »

https://www.casimages.com/i/22120202503623267718061501.jpg.html

https://www.casimages.com/i/22120202503623267718061500.jpg.html

I put in a 10k potentiometer to adjust the voltage divider to neutralize each trigger. hackpad made and installed in an arcade stick, tested in SFV, it works perfectly

ambysco · « **Reply #52 on:** December 02, 2022, 09:11:49 PM »

Anyone know what the solder jumper on the top left of side B actually does? Desoldering it doesn't disable Bluetooth. Can't figure out what it _does_ do.

Also, anyone know where the Bluetooth chip/antenna is?

RDC · « **Reply #53 on:** December 06, 2022, 01:40:12 AM »

It's just a jumper for the Antenna, opening it up will mess with the range but not kill it. The BT is built into the MCU there and no idea how you'd disable it on a hardware level.

XaRaBaS · « **Reply #54 on:** January 17, 2023, 10:14:30 AM »

Hi guys i've BDM-010 motherboard no charge but if i insert it with cable it is recognize by windows utility to try it.

Opened it i've finded and little explosion on CAP circled red (i think is cap because one side is 0 ohm but in continuity doesn't beep, on diode mode one side 0 and the other is 0.725)

Can you help me to find is corrected if it is cap and if u know how volt and farad?

On first post it's seems resistor.. correct? Value?
Thanks

RDC · « **Reply #55 on:** January 17, 2023, 10:24:41 AM »

It's an Inductor, no idea on the value, and it's on the 5v line from the Expansion port. Even with it missing the controller would still function and charge normally over USB, it would just not charge when placed in a dock. If it's not charging over USB, then when someone blew that thing up then they most likely fried the PMIC in there as well, the DA69087 chip.

XaRaBaS · « **Reply #56 on:** January 18, 2023, 04:36:39 AM »

Quote from: RDC on January 17, 2023, 10:24:41 AM

It's an Inductor, no idea on the value, and it's on the 5v line from the Expansion port. Even with it missing the controller would still function and charge normally over USB, it would just not charge when placed in a dock. If it's not charging over USB, then when someone blew that thing up then they most likely fried the PMIC in there as well, the DA69087 chip.

Thanks for the explanation, that line certainly feeds the LED always on side A.. if i misure the volt of the 3 caps on the right of DA9087 i read 5volt if i power the motherboard.. i need to find the datasheet of thie ic for know how it works..
Thanks for your time

RDC · « **Reply #57 on:** January 18, 2023, 07:10:05 AM »

That line goes from the expansion port to that Inductor then to the DA9087 pins 2 and 3, that's all. The 3 caps to the right of the DA9087 are decoupling for pins 22 and 58 of the DA9087, that's all.

dj_amir · « **Reply #58 on:** February 13, 2023, 06:52:56 AM »

Hello
Whats the value of this cap?

https://ibb.co/1qHcXYf

RDC · « **Reply #59 on:** February 13, 2023, 07:19:09 AM »

It's just a decoupling cap on the 3.2v rail. Not sure of the exact value, but anything from 1uF to 10uF would be fine there.

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Author Topic: DualSense 5 Controller PCB Scans (Read 77670 times)