Author Topic: DualSense 5 Controller PCB Scans (Read 79356 times)

RDC · « **Reply #90 on:** April 22, 2023, 10:14:34 AM »

Never bridge where a Capacitor was installed, or any component for that matter, unless it was already a jumper to begin with.

Just leave it off, and make sure none of the bits of it leftover are connecting, it'll be fine.

Kranex · « **Reply #91 on:** April 22, 2023, 02:28:01 PM »

Quote from: RDC on April 22, 2023, 10:14:34 AM

Never bridge where a Capacitor was installed, or any component for that matter, unless it was already a jumper to begin with.

Just leave it off, and make sure none of the bits of it leftover are connecting, it'll be fine.

Good to know, thanks for the swift response! Having now looked up what a decoupling capacitor is for, I can see how bridging it would be a mistake.

RUB3NSOL3R · « **Reply #92 on:** April 24, 2023, 07:52:36 AM »

Hi, I am an student of industrial electronic engineering. I am on the fourth year of the career and I hava to do a final degree project about the PS5 controller. I have to remap all the buttons and conect them to an arduino board. The objective of this project is to controll the PS5 controller with the PC keyboard. I read all the post and I now I know where most of the buttons are on the motherboard but there is a think that i need u to help me. I dont understant how i can reamp the create and share buttons, can u explain me how to do it? This buttons also are activo Lo (1.8V) like most of buttons?

Thank u for ur help, I apreciate ur work.

RDC · « **Reply #93 on:** April 24, 2023, 08:09:25 AM »

Those buttons are just active Lo like most of the others are.

RUB3NSOL3R · « **Reply #94 on:** April 24, 2023, 08:24:32 AM »

Quote from: RDC on April 24, 2023, 08:09:25 AM

Those buttons are just active Lo like most of the others are.

Ty,

Do u know where I can solder the cables for the Share and create buttons?

RDC · « **Reply #95 on:** April 24, 2023, 08:53:36 AM »

Either pop the top off the Tact button and use the contacts inside it, or hot air it off there and use the pads on the board. There are no nice easy spots for those.

RUB3NSOL3R · « **Reply #96 on:** May 03, 2023, 01:15:44 AM »

Good morning, could you tell me the key points of the touchpad board? It would be very helpful to me. Thank you very much.

Stone · « **Reply #97 on:** May 10, 2023, 10:15:56 AM »

Continued adaptive controller project....

R1/R2 & L1/L2 Buttons
I have removed the 6 pin flex cable, put an extension cable instead and plugged it into a breakout board. The plan is to have 2 micro switches connected as R1 and R2. I would then 3d print something so when I press the R2 micro switch, I would still have the function of the haptic feedback trigger.

I have read the forum here but did not understand when to use a 1kohm or 10kohm resister and I do not have the pinouts for the 6 pins I now have.
If some could help i need:
i) Which pins should I use as i'm getting alot of random things, like pressing 1 micro switch and both R1/R2 are getting triggered.
ii) Should I have a 10 ohm resister from the R2 & L2 or is that resister only when soldering directly to the board

Much appreciated

https://imgur.com/a/9zxVLfZ

RDC · « **Reply #98 on:** May 10, 2023, 11:05:12 AM »

With that little L1/L2 and R1/R2 FPC unplugged the L2/R2 lines are floating and weird things will happen.

On the BWL-020 board there, solder a 10k from TP4 to TP6 (see the BWL-020, TRIGGER ASSEMBLY TOP image in the first post). That will keep the L2/R2 in the not pressed state, until you press your button, which will connect L2/R2 to ground and cause it to be pressed 100%. You can do that thru a 1k or less if you prefer.

Stone · « **Reply #99 on:** May 10, 2023, 11:26:50 AM »

Can this be done using the pinouts I have from the breakout board instead on the BVWL-20 as soldering is not my strong suite. (I have posted a picture to easily understand what i did)

Given I removed the FPC and these things started happening, can I replicate the resistance of what the FPC had and put it into my board.

Thanks for the info and patience

RDC · « **Reply #100 on:** May 10, 2023, 11:36:59 AM »

Try a 10k between pins 2 and 4 on your board there.

Stone · « **Reply #101 on:** May 11, 2023, 09:33:45 AM »

Couldn't find a 10k ohm but found an 8k ohm.
Plugged

5 - micro switch - 6 = R1
5 - micro switch - 1 = R1 (alternative)
(micro switch set to all ways off)

2 - 8k ohm resistor - 4 = R2 stopped being pressed.
If I contact 3 with 2 or 4, the board switches off.

Tried to do it and kind of worked...
2 - 8k ohm resistor - micro switch - 4 (micro switch set to all ways on)

When switch is pressed the R2 does work but there is a bit of a delay.

In my mind I thought that I should have
3 - micro switch - ground (which ground, normal or L3/R3)

Any help would be appreciated as the R2 L2 is the last buttons I need to get this to work

Edit: I'm re-reading this post, and even your answer to me.
Do you mean
3 - 1k ohm resister - micro switch - ground (micro switch set to all ways off, and ground being the normal ground)

RDC · « **Reply #102 on:** May 11, 2023, 08:05:30 PM »

Ground is ground, there is no this ground for this and that ground for that in there.

2 - Resistor - 4

2 - New L2/R2 button - 1, 3 or 6, they are all ground.

Stone · « **Reply #103 on:** May 12, 2023, 10:14:04 AM »

The buttons worked

Thanks RDC big help...

If others need to do similar mod:
Setup BDM-020 MOTHERBOARD with break board to replace FPC R1/R2
(FPC/FFC flexible cable adapter board Pitch 0.5mm to straight 2.54mm 6Pin)
2 - Resistor - 4
2 - New button - 3 = R2
5 - New button - 6 = R1

However this disabled the adaptive trigger, which is something I did not wish as I want it to have all the features.
Any solutions?

Thanks

RDC · « **Reply #104 on:** May 12, 2023, 10:19:33 AM »

Are you talking about the Analog ability of the L2/R2? or the feedback motor?

If it's the motor, then try putting a 5.6k between pins 2 an 3, yes in parallel with the button.

Stone · « **Reply #105 on:** May 12, 2023, 10:47:06 AM »

I think it's the analog ability of L2/R2 I am talking about.

When I press the original R2 button with the ribbon disconnected (and connected to a micro switch as discussed before) the R2 button on Astro adaptive trigger screen does not move at all.

When I press the micro switch, then the button is fully pressed and the motor does come on.

RDC · « **Reply #106 on:** May 13, 2023, 09:02:48 AM »

The Analog feature is how much you are pulling the trigger. Just a bit, half way, 3/4, a full pull and then everything in between, like using the brakes and accelerator of a vehicle, much the same way the Sticks work, there is a range there. You can't have the Analog ability with a button, that's either on or it's off.

Stone · « **Reply #107 on:** May 14, 2023, 07:15:42 AM »

Yes yes I understand that.

However what i want to do is use the adaptive trigger, and when I pres the adaptive trigger I would have the 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 & full press. Just under the full press I would have my micro switch (for when the game do not have any adaptive trigger).

The idea, in my mind at least, is that I am copying the controller design of using the adaptive trigger, which I did not touch, and moving the FPC into a different position (then 3d print a housing).

However the situation now is that when I press the adaptive trigger nothing happens, and when I press the micro switch the R2 is activated.

Any ideas?

Thanks

RDC · « **Reply #108 on:** May 14, 2023, 09:27:07 AM »

You have the original L2/R2 FPC disconnected and your breakout board plugged in there, which in no way copies exactly how that FPC works. It has a voltage divider on it made up of 2 Resistors. One that is around 8k for the Pull-Up then one that is around 5.6k for the L2/R2 button. The more you press L2/R2, the lower that 5.6k Resistor value gets, so the L2/R2 are not going to work like they used to with how your board is setup becasue you only have a switch in there, which is only on or off.

Blackopso · « **Reply #109 on:** May 16, 2023, 02:39:11 AM »

hallo guys,
I need the value of this capacitor (BDM-020). https://imgur.com/a/IkicVqN Thanks in advance!

RDC · « **Reply #110 on:** May 16, 2023, 05:22:09 AM »

It will work perfectly fine missing, no need to replace it.

Blackopso · « **Reply #111 on:** May 16, 2023, 06:29:18 AM »

Many thanks.

Portu40 · « **Reply #112 on:** May 17, 2023, 05:16:12 PM »

hello. can anyone tell me where goes de third pin from the left. i lost track.

RDC · « **Reply #113 on:** May 17, 2023, 08:17:52 PM »

It goes, nowhere, and neither does the 4th from the right.

Portu40 · « **Reply #114 on:** May 18, 2023, 02:18:13 PM »

Thank you so much muy friend

RDC · « **Reply #115 on:** May 22, 2023, 01:12:18 PM »

Welcome.

rex1825 · « **Reply #116 on:** June 08, 2023, 05:36:53 PM »

New here, so hi all

I am doing small project on one of mine DualSense controllers. Project is related to really bad solution for thumbsticks, that is pots used there. Managed to measure that controller logic is looking for voltage from 0.3 to 1.5V for max movement of stick in both directions and 0.9V is neutral position.

Here is a thing, I have a lot of DualShock 3 controllers laying around, and luckily for me those all have 4 pin HallEffect "contactless" pots as they call them. Problem with those HallEffect modules is they are in total 10k Ohms, and on both out pins P1 and P2 difference in Ohms is approx +-150... that is, they work as pots with 10k total Ohms, 4 variable resistors with 10k each, 2 in series then those two lines in parallel. And here is the tricky part, when thumbstick moves in one of the axis, diagonal resistors in this module lose Ohms, while other two gain same amount, and by this P1 and P2 outputs are basically (when connected to power source) give difference in voltage.

So if I connect this "pot" to 1.8V, P1 and P2 have 0.9V, when I move one axis to it's max value, voltage changes for apporx 0.015V that is P1 gains and is 0.915V while P2 looses and is 0.885V... Now I am aware that Sony did this with two values so they get more precise readout by subtracting P1 and P2, aka Vout = (P1 - P2) * Gain + Voffset (where Voffset would be 0.9V and Gain would be approx 45ish for DualSense).

Problem is, I cannot find anything that would work on 1.8V and be as small and accessible for DualSense. Did try with Arduinos just for testing, but that 30ish mV is so small value that I need to make it have some gain before even considering to pull it through MCU.

I did consider using higher voltage of a DualSense controller to power up any additional circuits, but problem that I have is that I cannot find where should I take it in order not to drain battery if controller is off.

Does anyone know if there are any HallEffect modules that would fit in place of DualSense pots and have reasonable voltage/resistance difference? Or at least if someone could point me towards how to solve this problem of mine? Did look into models that are for SteamDeck, but those have HallEffect sensor soldered on breadboard of Thumbstick and only magnet in housing of conventional pot, so it is a no go...

Thanks in advance

HallEffect sensor picture:
https://ibb.co/nsz5Cgg

rex1825 · « **Reply #117 on:** June 08, 2023, 07:18:17 PM »

...maybe I found a way with some OpAmps and a MCU, currently I have Arduino Nano 33 BLE, I found really small form factor MCU board that uses same chip as Nano 33 BLE, so it is a win win...

So, I came to idea to use OpAmps with Vcc/2 to get rid of the offset voltage of each output (P1 and P2), and at the same time boost those, in fact, boost only one half of the curve, only positive, since negative one will be 0V. Then put boosted voltage to ADC (Nano 33 BLE can read 0-3.3V and has 8x 12bit ADCs) with as much as possible high precision. MCU can handle simple logic if one of the Px inputs has voltage higher then 0V, thumbstick is moved to one side of the axis (let's say P1 left, P2 right). And with that via simple code it will send data for all 4 axis (2 thumbsticks) via I2C to MCP4728 (4x 12bit DAC) corresponding P1 = P2 = 0V > DAC 0.9V, P1 = max > DAC = 1.5V, P2 = max > DAC = 0.3V per channel.

Yes I know I'll need 8 OpAmps, some additional circuitry, MCP4728 board and Nano 33 board... but I think all this can be fitted into DualSense.

Only problem that I have now is to get at least 3.3V for Arduino, MCP and OpAmps... hope DualSense has that...

Here is small schematics

https://ibb.co/svszNZZ

Manavie · « **Reply #118 on:** June 09, 2023, 04:36:18 PM »

Quote from: RDC on May 10, 2023, 11:05:12 AM

With that little L1/L2 and R1/R2 FPC unplugged the L2/R2 lines are floating and weird things will happen.

On the BWL-020 board there, solder a 10k from TP4 to TP6 (see the BWL-020, TRIGGER ASSEMBLY TOP image in the first post). That will keep the L2/R2 in the not pressed state, until you press your button, which will connect L2/R2 to ground and cause it to be pressed 100%. You can do that thru a 1k or less if you prefer.

New to the thread and modding in general. I was wondering for the L2/R2, I'm going to be disassembling the trigger mechanism, motor and all. Im using just the BWL-010 board so just to verify, all I'd need to do is connect a 10k resistor from the L2/R2 (TP9) to 1.8v (TP6) if I get rid of the little blue FPC and connect the L2/R2 - New button - GND?

Also, when you say do that thru a 1k resistor do you mean connect L2 - 1k - new button - GND, and in that case, do I have to also connect a 10k resistor from L2/R2 to 1.8 and a 7.5k resistor from L2/R2 to GND?

From my understanding, either option works, right? Thank you!

RDC · « **Reply #119 on:** June 09, 2023, 11:04:13 PM »

You don't need the 7.5k unless you want to keep things more like they are when the controller is 100% stock. No idea if that even matters, so you can just do the 10k to 1.8v is all then new button to ground. The 1k on the new button can be done or not, also no real evidence that one method works better than the other there.

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Author Topic: DualSense 5 Controller PCB Scans (Read 79356 times)