Acidmods
Console Modding------ ( Here you can talk about your favorite Consoles ) => Xbox One => Xbox One controllers/Xbox One Rapid fire Controllers => Topic started by: RDC on November 11, 2019, 06:40:04 AM
-
So here we goes again. Kind of a cross between the 1708 and 1698 controllers and some other fluff in there.
1797 BUTTON BOARD TOP
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1797%20TBT.jpg)
1797 BUTTON BOARD BOTTOM
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1797%20TBB.jpg)
1797 MCU/POWER BOARD TOP
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1797%20BBT.jpg)
1797 MCU/POWER BOARD BOTTOM
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1797%20BBB.jpg)
J3/J6 Connector Pinout
1 - GND
2 - D+ USB
3 - 3.3v
4 - D- USB
5 - LED (Mode 3)
6 - GND
7 - LED (Mode 2)
8 - LED (Charge Amber)
9 - LED (Mode 1)
10 - LED (Charge White)
11 - GU
12 - SDA
13 - ~RESET
14 - SCK
TEST POINTS on BUTTON Board
DB1 - SCK (at U4)
DB2 - SDA (at U4)
DB3 - U4 pin 8
DB5 - SCK
DB6 - SDA
DB7 - U4 pin 10
P1 - USB 5v (to J2 on MCU board)
P2 - GND (to J11 on MCH board)
P3 - GND
P4 - GND
TEST POINTS on MCU/POWER Board (some)
DB1 - Status (U4)
DB2 -
DB7 -
DB8 -
DB9 -
DB10 - B
DB11 - SCK (at U13)
DB12 - SDA (at U13)
DB13 -
DB14 - LT Rumble Control
DB15 - Light Rumble Control
DB16 - LT Rumble Control
DB17 - Light Rumble Control
DB18 - RT Rumble Control
DB19 - Heavy Rumble Control
DB20 - RT Rumble Control
DB21 - Heavy Rumble Control
DB23 -
DB24 -
DB25 -
DB26 - P4
DB27 - P3
DB28 - LT Range (0v Full, ~1.75v Mid, ~0.9v Short)
DB29 - P2
DB30 - P1
DB31 - RT Range (0v Full, ~1.75v Mid, ~0.9v Short)
DB32 -
DB33 -
DB36 -
DB37 - Trigger VCC
DB38 - LT
DB39 - RT
DB40 -
DB43 - LSY
DB44 - LSC
DB45 - LSX
DB46 - RSY
DB47 - RSX
DB48 -
DB49 -
DB50 -
DB51 -
DB53 -
DB58 -
DB61 -
DB63 - RSC
DB64 -
DB65 -
DB66 -
DB67 -
DB68 -
FT3 -
FT5 -
FT6 -
FT7 -
FT8 -
FT9 - 3.3v
FT10 - Dock +
FT11 - 5v (USB)
FT12 - GND
FT13 - GND
FT14 - SW18
FT15 - GND
FT16 - GU
FT17 - GND
FT18 - LT Rumble
FT19 - Light Rumble
FT20 - Trigger VCC
FT21 - RT Rumble
FT22 - Heavy Rumble
FT23 - 3.3v
FT24 - AN+ (1.8v)
FT25 -
FT26 -
FT27 -
P1 - BATT+
P2 - BATT TEMP?
P3 - BATT GND
P4 - DOCK +
P5 - DOCK (??)
P6 - DOCK - (GND)
My Schematic* of the Button Board - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1%201797%20TOP%20BOARD.pdf (https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1%201797%20TOP%20BOARD.pdf)
* Information will be updated when/if I get them scoped and/or figured out.
The Power regulation has all been moved to the bottom MCU board now and is mostly done with a BQ24250, which is the chip that was in the older version PnC packs. - https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43204.0.html (https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43204.0.html)
The Guide button LED has the standard White LED, but also an RGB just under it now. They are all controlled with a PCA9632TK over the I2C, so just about any combination of color and brightness is possible with that layout for the Guide button color now, but that will need to be done for most thru whatever app they provide.
The buttons are still done using the PCAL6416A IO Expander like the 1708, but the button order has been moved around. The Mode button has been added (MD) and the PnC detection has been removed, as that is all handled differently now. NU (DB3 reads Lo), DR, VW, SY, LB, DU, DL, DD, NU (P17 reads Lo), A, Y, RB, X, MN, MD, NU (DB7 reads Hi)
This is with no buttons pressed, so you'd get 01111111 then 01111111 after the Read Command, or 0x7F then 0x7F
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1797%20I2C.jpg)
The 4 alternate buttons now used 2 boards, versus the 1 board the 1698 controller used, and there are also 2 switches per board that are used to let the MCU know where the Trigger Stop selection is at.
RT, P1, P2 BOARD TOP
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1797%20RTT.jpg)
RT, P1, P2 BOARD BOTTOM
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1797%20RTB.jpg)
LT, P3, P4 BOARD TOP
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1797%20LTT.jpg)
LT, P3, P4 BOARD BOTTOM
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1797%20LTB.jpg)
LT/RT BOARD SCHEMATIC
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1797%20Tact-Switch%20board.jpg)
I'm sure this was done to keep the thing in check for those mid and short pull settings as the voltage Output of the Hall Sensor doesn't drop near as much as a full pull, so the MCU needs some way to be able to tell those mid and short pulls aren't actual mid and short pulls of the full range and that they need to be treated differently.
~1.43v NOT PULLED
~0.57v FULL PULL
~1.10v MID PULL
~1.31v SHORT PULL
Anyone curious about U1 and U2 missing from the Top board? Well your guess is as good as mine. I traced it all out, but even if you knew what ICs were supposed to go there and populated all the missing parts it still wouldn't work, as it's not tapped onto the I2C bus (no vias) like it was originally designed for. Could have been for an Accelerometer, touch sensor or something of the sort, who knows, unless you have first hand knowledge and would like to spill the beans, as well as explain why all the useless footprints were left on the board, it's anyone's guess what they were for.
-
Thank you.
Can we get a disassembly of the analog sticks please?
-
When I get a complete untouched controller here I can do that, meantime there's nothing stopping you from opening one up there. ;)
-
Well there is the issue of not having a series 2 controller, such as yourself. However I will post pictures if I do happen to come across one.
I'm banking on the potentiometers being the same as. Will be interesting to see what comes out of china for replacement sticks.
It's also good news that the series 1 and 2 controllers are supposedly going to be compatible with the new consoles next year!
Us repair guys should be praying that the new gen consoles have HDMI ports that are made of cheese and carbon brushed potentiometers that fail and reign strong! May there be plenty for all to repair! :hifive:
-
I don't have the complete sticks here, or I'd have posted them as well. The base the cap snaps onto is screwed onto the top of the shaft, and must be heated to break the bond first or you'll wreck something. I didn't get those with this controller, so no point in half arsing that bit of it with some pics of it all and half description.
The sticks are the same footprint and 10k as the older sticks, same POTs as well, and still made by Alps.
-
(https://i.postimg.cc/BjdX3f2Z/IMG-20191229-211248.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BjdX3f2Z)
-
Hello RDC. I have a series 2 here which after a couple of minutes of being on it starts registering the RB as pressed. Changed the rb button and still doing the same. The only thing that I can see in that line that would cause a short is R24 and D3 but I don’t want to remove any of them without being sure first. Currently I don’t have a tester in hand to test.
Would you have any idea of what would be the problem here?
-
R24 has to be there to pass the RB button press thru to U4, and it's just a jumper, so the only issue it could cause would be if it were open and then RB just wouldn't work.
Removing D3 wouldn't cause any issues, but if it were shorted then RB would be pressed all of the time. Could be it's wonky and after a time warning up and shorting, but that would be a wild card and blasting it with a bit of freeze spray (or air duster turned upside down) may or may not reveal that one.
If there is any corrosion, flux or whatever around the U4 solder joints make sure that's all cleaned up.
Does RB work fine for the couple of minutes that it's not self pressing? If it does work fine, then I'd start to suspect U4 since that's a bit of an odd issue where it's working fine and then it just up and presses itself.
You can watch the voltage on the RB line, should be around 3.3v when RB is not pressed, then drop to 0v when you press RB. The voltage may or may not change on it's own when it's doing that self press, after that you would need to toss it on the Logic Analyzer and see if you could catch it doing that on the I2C.
-
R24 has to be there to pass the RB button press thru to U4, and it's just a jumper, so the only issue it could cause would be if it were open and then RB just wouldn't work.
Removing D3 wouldn't cause any issues, but if it were shorted then RB would be pressed all of the time. Could be it's wonky and after a time warning up and shorting, but that would be a wild card and blasting it with a bit of freeze spray (or air duster turned upside down) may or may not reveal that one.
If there is any corrosion, flux or whatever around the U4 solder joints make sure that's all cleaned up.
Does RB work fine for the couple of minutes that it's not self pressing? If it does work fine, then I'd start to suspect U4 since that's a bit of an odd issue where it's working fine and then it just up and presses itself.
You can watch the voltage on the RB line, should be around 3.3v when RB is not pressed, then drop to 0v when you press RB. The voltage may or may not change on it's own when it's doing that self press, after that you would need to toss it on the Logic Analyzer and see if you could catch it doing that on the I2C.
It does work for like 2 minutes and then it goes registering the press continuously, solder joints on u4 looks okay
-
It does work for like 2 minutes and then it goes registering the press continuously, solder joints on u4 looks okay
Indeed it seemed to be D3, didn’t remove it. Just heated it a little and seems to be working fine now (for now) I’ve been using the controller for a little while now to discard any further short from it.
-
How do you desolder the through hole mounted parts from these boards? I want to replace a bad RB switch and it doesn't want to come off. Such an easy task on the other controllers, but on this board my desoldering pump doesn't work well and desoldering braid also doesn't suck all the solder from the holes. I tried with hot air at 380C and it's also not helping.
Desoldering from the other boards is no problem for me, but this one seems to be incredibly hard to work with. What's the cause for this and what can I do better here?
-
This board just has a lot larger ground planes and they are stitched together with a pile of vias to the ones on the other side of it, so any ground thing you go to desolder, that heat just gets pulled away from it, quick, like a heatsink.
If you're replacing it anyway, cut the old one off the board as close as you can to the PCB, then it'll be easier to heat up and remove what is left as you wont have to also heat up the part as well as the ground planes.
-
Thanks for the good advice. I destroyed the old switch part and tried again with higher temps. Was much easier :victory:
I wonder why they decided to have the large heatsink ground planes. It makes a better impression quality wise, but are the chips running hot and need cooling or something. It's just a controller :laughing:
-
They're not designed to heatsink, as nothing on that top board there would generate much heat anyway, they just do since there's a lot of copper there. I'm sure some of it was done for shielding and impedance, since the antennas are up there, maybe a hair for mechanical so the PCB is stiffer, but you'd be just as well off pondering why it's Blue instead of Green, as there's no real reason other than that's just how they made it and only they know exactly why. ;)
Also, not sure what kind of iron you're using there, but any time you get around ground or power planes like that you'll want to turn up the heat a bit. Even when the pads have thermal reliefs (connected by a few small traces versus directly all around) they still pull a pile of the heat away. Adding some flux or just a little fresh solder will help the heat from your iron get in there as well. If you're doing more of that kind of work, a larger tip on the iron will also help to get some more heat in there, and you can also always just warm up the entire PCB with a preheater, hair dryer or carefully with a heat gun so the iron doesn't have to work so hard trying to warm up everything but the one spot you're working on.
-
Hello,
I bought a rapid fire mod chip from xmod. I would like to install it on my elite series 2 controller.
They stated on their website the elite series 2 wiring instructions are not recommended and to send it in. I would like to attempt it myself.
Can you help with the soldering points?
Thank you.
Edit: If you can point out where, on the series 2 pcb, are located
1. Positive
2. LED
3. Sync/mode
4. Negative
5. Right trigger
https://xmodelectronics.com/collections/weekly-deals/products/copy-of-30-mode-xbox-one-modchip?variant=32801404649519
(https://i.postimg.cc/94m6RFXV/XMOD-RF5-rapid-fire-modchip-installation-guide-1-02-xbox-one-pos-2.png) (https://postimg.cc/94m6RFXV)
-
Hey there,
i bought an used elite 2 controller and replaced the analog joysticks and the rb and lb buttons. After assembly i recognized the LT button only works on full range and mid range. The short range is not funcitonal. I saw a capacitor or resistor (i dont know) is broken away. Do anybody know which piece it is and what is the value:
(https://i.postimg.cc/9zY3xg0M/B0733-A6-D-08-FB-4-D7-F-BB07-93-D84-B5217-C7.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9zY3xg0M)
-
That missing Cap isn't causing the LT issue. As long as the trace and pads are still intact it'll be fine with that missing.
Look on the LT switch board first, make sure the Resistor is on there and that SW4 is not damaged. Then make sure all 4 of the contacts for it are good on it and the motherboard.
-
Thanks for reply.
I measured the trace and pad and there is a passage, so it is ok i think. Then i checked the LT board and the resistor is there. I measured it and the value is 100.2Kohm. The SW4 is not damaged. I measured all 4 pins and on 2 pins there is the whole time passage. On the other 2 pins there is only passage if SW4 is pushed. Finally i stretched the 4 pins of the button board that touches the 4 pads of the LT board. But after assemble it still not works on short range. I pushed with my fingers the parts harder together so there must be a contact from 4 pins to 4 pads. But no success. Do you have any ideas?
##Edit
i reassembled a second controller and checked the LT board there and the LT board works fine. Now i know it must be a problem with the 1797 MCU/POWER BOARD. Can it also be a mechanic problem, so the LT button is not sink enough? Maybe it isnt the problem but i can see the LT button is not sinking far enough as the RT button on short range. It is a tiny range, but i am wondering how it could be so and could it be the fault.
-
Could be mechanical, if the the Magnet isn't getting close enough to the Hall sensor to change the value it wouldn't work or if the LT switch isn't pressing SW4.
-
I measured the hall sensors VOUT. It is 194mV. When i press the LT Trigger very little the hall sensor recognize it and the VOUT changes fast to 193mV, 192mV... and so on. I measured on J1 100.2Kohm when LT hair trigger is set to short range. Strange.
-
Hall Vout is pulsed at 125Hz, it's not a linear voltage.
-
Oh ok.
Could TP DB28 be helpful to identify if the voltage is correct for the different ranges?
-
It will tell you if the switches and all on the LT board are working correctly. How they are doing the actual measurement is all done inside the MCU though.
-
anyone know of a compatible usb-c replacement for this board. been looking for days and cant find anything.
-
anyone know of a compatible usb-c replacement for this board. been looking for days and cant find anything.
I've been searching for months.
There is a metal sheild over the top of the port so that part isn't important, just the actual USB. I've asked all my suppliers and tralled AliExpress, DHGate and Alibabah nothing comes up.
Finding ones with SMD pins and long enough is a challange. The PS5 USB-C ports where out in five minutes I have a stack of those and replaced several. I'm now seeing Series controllers with mashed ports.
One company here in the UK advertises they replace them, they must be using donors.
-
i saw the same listing from the same company. they must be or they have a private hook up.
i think we have both searched all the same resources and come up with zero return. i assume that the issue is that only the series 2 uses this usb-c and aftermarket manufacturers feel no urgency to clone due to it being a small market. however, now that xbox series x is out and those controllers are also usb-c...anyone able to verify if these are the same. if so maybe will have some replacements in the near future.
-
Elite Series 2 and Standard Series S|X use the same ports.
-
Hey Guys,
I did a repair on the left stick, fully replacing the component. For some reason, after the repair, both sticks are reading a full tilt 1.00, 1.00 on Left and -1.00, -1.00 on Right. Also both triggers are not responding now. CR14 doesn't seem to be on my MCU when compared to your board above. Curious if this is the cause or if I should test something else. I don't see any obvious integrity loss to components or passage disruption. I was very careful to replace the component without damaging anything, but i guess you never know with all the smaller components lying around.
Thanks,
Matvey
-
What does work on that thing? The voltage for the Sticks and the voltage for the Triggers both come from different Regulators, U10 and U6 respectively, but they both get their voltage from the 3.3v rail. If that had an issue nothing on there would work enough for it to even connect to anything. The MCU controls both of those Regulators, but if U10 is off and the Sticks are getting no power, then they should both be defaulting in the same direction, not one going one way and one going the other, that's odd as frig and technically impossible.
CR14 missing isn't going to effect any of those functions, but it should be on the board, especially if CR13, 15 and 16 are still on there.
If that thing was potentially knocked off, I'd start looking for other things that might also be missing or don't look right on there.
Could be the MCU would up all corrupt as a politician somehow, and is the only thing I could think of right off tata would make all of the Analog functions behave like that.
-
Hey RDC, great work as always, your scans and schematics have helped me no end.
do you have any idea what these two components are i've circled? one is on RSC and one is on the output of RSY.
(https://i.imgur.com/BapuCTD.jpg)
-
Most likely some kind of TVS diode. Thing will work fine with them missing, so long as the pad/trace for it isn't damaged.
-
Hello RDC you are always a lifesaver for my repairs
i hope you can provide the schematics of the bottom board od thia elite 2. i have a problem with this 3 black resistors in Q11 near the right analog module. one is missing and i tried to use the same size of resistor from other controller and yet my unit cant power on battery.
-
Could only do that after I made it, an it's not really on my short list right now as they are a pile of work and I'm sure that board is a 6 layer, so that adds a little more 'fun' to the project.
The size of the Resistor is not the only thing that needs to be considered there, the value of it is far more important. Unless it was the exact same version controller and taken from the same spot, that could cause more issues than it originally had putting just any old Resistor in there.
Does it work from the USB cable? Left it on the charger for more than an hour? Tried another battery pack?
-
Yes the Unit is working fine on usb, battery was fully charged, charged it on another board i have,power board and battery is working fine.. I tried to replace the resistor from the nearest size i could find in a 1708 , R7.it powered up for about 5minutes then it shuts down.
I guess the value for this thing is completely different or could be something else. This model is really not a repair friendly one. analogs and bumper switch solders are a pain to suck out .
-
You need to preheat the area a bit before tackling the thru hole components as the ground planes are pulling all of the heat away.
The Resistor values in that area are 75k, 100k and 100k
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Elite%202/Resistor_Values_Some.jpg)
-
Okay I was replacing sticks on a elite series 2 board and the whole trace for j2 ripped off. I think it only ripped because someone else had attempted to repair remote before me and had already caused damage. It connects to p1 on the button board. How can I restore j2. Like what is j2? Please can someone help me! I really want to fix this remote.
-
P1/J2 is how the USB 5v gets from the top board to the bottom board. Without seeing the damage I have no idea the best way to repair it. You may have to just run a jumper wire from FT11 on the bottom of the bottom board to P1 on the top board to restore the connection.
-
P1/J2 is how the USB 5v gets from the top board to the bottom board. Without seeing the damage I have no idea the best way to repair it. You may have to just run a jumper wire from FT11 on the bottom of the bottom board to P1 on the top board to restore the connection.
(https://ibb.co/gm639zp)
that whole gold connector ripped off with the whole trace but i will try your suggestion first thanks
-
If that's the case then my suggestion is kind of the only way to restore the connection. Without poking around in there and looking for alternative spots anyway, which would just be the same thing, only in a different place. ;)
-
hi
first of all, sorry my lack of knowledge, but only thing i got are symptoms from gamepad tester
on full throw:
right trigger pressed at 70% registers as 100%
left works fine
on mid throw:
right trigger works fine = registers as 60%
left trigger should be same but is 100%
on short throw:
right trigged is not registered
left registered as 100%
behaving the same with swapped magnets or hall sensors
no corrosion or missing componets
what should i look for, please?
-
Hey Guys!
I really need your help. So I tried to fix my RB/LB bumpers (on my Xbox Elite Controller S2) and I made it pretty good (personal view obviously). My problem is that as I soldered I got some solder tin on the cableport. (In the picture 1797 BUTTON BOARD BOTTOM at the right upper top: "J4").
I still got the cable in the port but while testing the bumper didn't work. So I thought I need to get the solder tin of the port or I buy a new Button Board. I tried to get it off but I failed, so I need a new Button Board.
My Question:
Does anyone know where I could buy a new Button Board or does anyone know how to get off the solder tin?
I would really appreciate your help.
Thanks in advance,
Teddy Westside
-
Post good pics of your board if you want anyone to see if it's maybe salvageable.
Should be able to find those board on eBay somewhere, I'd also hit up some of the bigger controller modding sites, as they might have some spare boards lying around for sale from controller returns, new employee training mistakes and such.
-
Hey guys, where can I buy tca6416rtwr <-- this chip? Should it be exact same chip, or can I use alternative one? My elite series 2 controller has damage on that chip and I could not find it anywhere
-
Use the PCA6416AHF,128 you can find them at Digikey.
-
Thank you mate :victory:
-
Welcome.
-
Hello RDC. Hope you?re doing great
I have a Series 2 controller that suddenly started registering RSX 100% to the right, I already checked db47 and it looks good. Haven?t messed around with any soldering on this controller. I swapped the pontentiometer for it but still the same.
What would be your guess here?
-
Most likely suspect is you have pulled the plating out of the thru hole for the 1.8v pin of that POT. It's on an internal board layer, and no plating in there means no 1.8v so the POT will default to being grounded, or full right. If you measure the voltage on the RSX pin and it gives you 0v, then run a jumper wire from that POT 1.8v pin to the RSY POT 1.8v pin and you should be good to go.
-
I don't know if you can help or not but, I recently replaced my left analog stick which I have done on several controllers before and now my wired and wireless connections show as unknown device. Controller powers up and I can go through the 3 profiles using the button but no USB or bluetooth connections are available. Bluetooth and USB show unknown device. Any idea? Any help greatly appreciated.
-
Hey all! I'm new to this and I'm just tinkering, but I need some help. The spring contact labeled J2 on the MCU board broke off with the pad and the charging or USB-C power doesn't work anymore. Is there somewhere I can wire the contact to so that it fixes the circuit or would I have to get a new board? I tried exposing some traces but I'm not sure where I need to solder a wire to.
-
J2 on the bottom board connects to P1 on the top board, which is the USBC 5v line.
-
I figured that out, but J2 is broken off of the bottom board and the pads came with it so I need somewhere to jumper on the bottom board to J2 that I glued back on so that the USB 5V line works again. I can post pictures if needed.
-
Bottom of the MCU board, use FT11 and jumper wire that to P1 on the top board. It doesn't need to be a massive wire, but if all you have is 30awg, I'd double up and use 2 of them.
-
You're amazing thank you so much! Since I glued J2 back in place, could I jumper FT11 to J2 so that I can disassemble without desoldering an extra wire?
-
Long as the glue holds you can.
-
Awesome. Thanks a bunch!
-
Welcome.
-
Hi RDC, finding this thread has been a miracle.
I am doing joystick repairs on this controller for someone and accidentally sliced through DB50 on the motherboard. Would you happen to know what function it serves? If it?s important, what is the spec to meet? I hope to purchase the part on Digikey asap.
Cheers, and thanks again!
-
This board doesn't have designators for all of the components on it. DB50 is just a test point there at the top/left corner of the MCU. Post a pic of the damage or describe much better where the problem is.
-
Sorry about that, I was confused about their silkscreen nomenclature.
I have attached a picture with the specific component circled in red north of the MCU.
https://ibb.co/8rnYKpq
-
It's all good. That's a Resistor, 33ohm, 5%, 0201 size. As to what it does, no idea, the trace fraks off into the internal layers and goes who knows where.
-
Hello,
I was trying to replace the RB switch (I am not an expert, this is my first repair and soldering experience) and I think I screwed it up.
After 2 hours trying to remove the original switch I was able to solder a new one, but RB it is not working anymore.
I replaced two other times, but still not working: I am afraid I might have corroded/ruined some contact on the board. From these pictures here, do you think there is something I can do ?
From various tests I was able to make RB constantly pushing adding a lot of wires in the eyelets without solder so that the wires were ?filling? the gaps between the switch and the board, but it worked for less than 10 seconds and then it stopped (maybe some wires were touching together between eyelets, I can?t say).
Here are the pictures of my mess :)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KUE38-izM_tbeYgLxpP5qi28LJOFDtw2/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/180REkXxhzLUmwzs4mGKyJvixxFAQBjeI/view?usp=drivesdk
(https://drive.google.com/file/d/180REkXxhzLUmwzs4mGKyJvixxFAQBjeI/view?usp=drivesdk)
(https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KUE38-izM_tbeYgLxpP5qi28LJOFDtw2/view?usp=drivesdk)
thanks in advance for your help and advices!
-
Have to say, after 2 hours if that's all the damage you did, then you'll be fine with a bit more practice. That's not really bad at all as far as the damage done. You've removed D3 and R24 during the chaos, but those aren't technically needed anyway to make the thing work again.
Reinstall the new switch and solder up the 3 spots that are still good, the 3 round ones.
Then on the boogered up one, the sqaure one, solder a little jumper wire from that RB switch lead to the bottom pad just to the left there, the little one that is just above R24, or solder it to both of them, not going to matter, but it needs to be connected to the bottom one for sure.
Use as small a wire as you can, and go easy on the solder.
-
Thanks a lot for your answer!
So I need to create, using two wires, the two red connections I added in this picture, right ?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XnNDhDE4bH0yKXipD25kuEtLrnIM70us/view?usp=sharing
For soldering, do you suggest I use the "tin wire" I've got from this kit:
https://www.amazon.it/Ockered-manutenzioni-elettrodomestici-interruttore-temperatura/dp/B07WYLF6QV/ref=asc_df_B07WYLF6QV/?tag=googshopit-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=386514840607&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5839833630002615550&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1008463&hvtargid=pla-825996312222&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=78953294876&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=386514840607&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5839833630002615550&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1008463&hvtargid=pla-825996312222
or shall I use flux paste ?
https://www.amazon.it/dp/B09P4LJG36?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
thanks again for your help
-
Do not wire it up that way or it will just act like RB is pressed all the time. You only need 1 wire, connected to the pad JUST above R24 there, you are 3 and 4 pads up from R24 with your drawing.
No idea what you mean by tin wire. I only see the solder and solder wick in that kit, and you don't want to use that solder wick as it's far to large. The solder is most likely some rosin core, so it has flux in it already. You just need some small piece of wire to make the jumper connection from the RB lead to the pad.
-
Thanks a lot.
so I will create only the green wire here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1INgmUprCO1QWHYeOfhYyPx727z4OSdrr/view?usp=share_link
I was thinking to use the flux paste to try to clean the square contact to remove that dark/burned material on top, but it looks like it is not needed, right ?
Regarding soldering, I will use the solder-wire of the kit.
Again thanks for the time in helping me.
-
That's it.
The square area there is just PCB now, no need to do anything with the exception of maybe clean it up a bit with some rubbing alcohol, but that's not needed.
Welcome.
-
Just out of my curiosity, if the D3 is not needed, why there are those two lines connecting the square eyelet to the D3 pads (the 3 and 4 where I draw the red lines) ?
What those are theoretically meant to do ? Where can I find more about the theory of these type of circuits ? (I just need a "keyword" so I can study about it): I am too old to remember the concepts from my electronic exam at university ;)
Thanks again
-
Only one of those D3 pads goes to the RB line, the other one is going to ground. It's just some kind of TVS Diode. The value of R24 was 0 ohms, so it was just a jumper. It's not that they aren't needed, they just aren't needed for it to work, they are more safety related things, like car door locks, you don't need those or the thing to start and get you places. ;)
-
It is indeed very hard, but it looks like I managed to make it work again thanks to your help and suggestions!
Here is a pic of what I was able to achieve (which is ugly, but it is still an achievement for me ;) )
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FHxMZ5dwFYpnMhv7Dezx6fvBBVgknQm3/view?usp=drivesdk
-
Similar to ghepardo, I just replaced both my bumper buttons which I used a heat gun/blower to get the old switches off causing D3 to move off the contacts for it. I tried to move it back over but just bumped it free. While trying to pick it up with my tweezers it went flying somewhere. I've seen you say a bunch that D3 isn't needed but would it be worth trying to get a donor controller to replace that or should I just close up my controller? R24 didn't move at all, so based off what you said I wouldn't need to make a jumper like ghepardo but, I'm curious if it'd be worth the effort. Since it came off from a heat gun the solder for the pads is still there so I'd just need to drop it in place basically.
-
You're welcome to take the time trying to get M$ to tell you what it is, or hunt down what might be a suitable replacement. If I were repairing it for someone else, then I would get one from a donor board, but that's all really just wasted time for that particular component.
-
Hey,
Does anyone know manufacturer/pn of hall sensor (U7/U8)? Or alternatives that are proven to work?
Thanks.
-
They're the same A1304 they've been using on all of the other controllers.
-
I?ve replaced the stick but it not registering? I?ve done a jumper from db63 and tried it on all 4 of the button pins, but it?s still not registering? I know it not the stick as this is the third I?ve tried on it . Any help would be really appreciated
-
Which stick? and what about it is not registering?
Finally you say you're messing with DB63, which is for the RSC button, so the only conclusion one can draw is RSC is not working and everything else works fine. If RSC doesn't activate when you ground DB63, then the trace from DB63 going under the stick is open or it's the RSC trace is open somewhere between there and the MCU or the MCU has an issue.
-
Yes the right stick centre is not pressing , ,correct . I?m getting continuity when I run a jumper from the pins. I must have damaged underneath when taking the stick off
-
if i run a jumper to db63 does it matter witch of the 4 pins it is? yes it is the centre button not worrking. i
-
If you ground DB63 and the RSC does not press, then the issue is between DB63 and the MCU.
-
Hi Guys,
I'm hoping you can help me out.
I'm repairing my 1797 that has the old random power off fault.
I was unable to save the center resistor attached to the DB7 test point on the power/uC board (just below/left of the left thumb stick)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZBg1kKP4/Resistor-request.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZBg1kKP4)
could RDC or someone please stick a meter on it and let me know the value.
the bottom one measures about 28k7 for me.
Cheers
-
The one circled is 44k, but is more likely a 44.2k precision, 1%
The one below it is 30k, also probably 1%
-
Hi Guys,
I need some help. I replaced both analog joysticks, but when i put everything back together i noticed that the left trigger rumble is not working.
After inspection i have found one component missing (see attached photo). Could this be the reason??
(https://photos.app.goo.gl/m5SRiKh31397sco96)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/m5SRiKh31397sco96 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/m5SRiKh31397sco96)
-
Yep. It's a 33ohm Resistor, replace it and you'll be good to go.
-
Thanks for helping out, what size i should buy (sorry i'm not familiar with smd sizes)?
-
0201
-
Does anyone know the measurement of the cap to the top left of the marked resistors?
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Elite%202/Resistor_Values_Some.jpg)
-
100nF should work fine there.
-
Does the voltage matter or will any 0201 100nF work? Thanks for the help!
-
It matters, though no idea what voltage is on that line exactly. I'd go with a 10v or more to be safe and it should be fine.
-
Sorry for the somewhat off-topic post but I tried to send @RDC a DM and couldn't get past the year challenge for some reason, and I figured it would be better to just post here rather than creating an entirely new thread just to ask a question.
I'm trying to contribute some PCB scans to the PS community but I'm not really sure of the best way to get high quality scans the way you've done for the controller PCBs. I tried scanning them on my normal scanner but just got a massive mess, are you using a scanner or are you just taking pictures and stitching them together in post. Could you share some tips on how you get them to look so good?
-
There are a couple of scanner types for starters, CIS and CCD. CIS are better for things that will lay perfectly flat on the scanbed, aka documents and pictures, or a bare PCB. While a CCD type will take much better scans of things that have some depth (not a lot though) to them, aka not perfectly flat things like PCBs with SMT parts on them. If you scan a PCB with components on it with a CIS type scanner, it'll look like trash and the only things that will be in focus are the things that are touching the scan bed.
You want the board as close to the scan bed as you can get it in the CCD type also, as too far away and it'll also make bad images. So removing things like connectors, thru hole components and the like is sometimes done to get the board closer to the scan bed.
Then parallel, you want to PCB as level to the scan bed as possible also. The scans here were done with the HP years back, and it was starting to give up then, but you can see some change under the Headset connector in the top image to keep the board parallel with the scan bed, then in the second image thru the hole in the PCB under J4 there you can see it again, that's stacked on the other side of the board to keep it level and balanced on the connectors so the PCB stayed parallel with the scan bed. If you did those exact scans with a CIS type scanner, the connectors would come out looking nice, but that's it. https://acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,34543.0.html
I used to use an HP ScanJet 3570c, but after years and years of use it finally gave it up. I currently use a CanoScan 9000F Mark II for my PCB scans, and I scan them at 1200dpi. They still aren't as sharp as I'd like, but I also have no desire to sell a kidney for a scanner that will or want the hassle of setting up a photo box and taking 20 pics to get the 1 that I like, which would give you the best image, but also takes the most time IMO.
-
Okay perfect I think that's about everything I need to know, sounds like I'll probably have to find some dead PS3s if I really want to to justice to the larger boards but that's fine by me.
I can see old 3570c's on ebay for not too much used, was it just a case of wanting to upgrade or is the 9000F Mark II also a CCD type scanner?
-
The 9000F is CCD, or the scans in this thread wouldn't look like they do. ;) If the 3570c is cheap, then it's probably not going to take as nice of a scan as it did when it was new. When mine started taking garbage scans I went for a couple of used ones first, and not long after they also failed, so the 9000F was the best upgrade/replacement scanner at the time.
-
Ahh, okay got it.
-
Hey
So I've noticed that new controllers have black joysticks instead of green ones. Does anyone know which ones are more reliable? Also where do you buy replacement joysticks? I could only find them on AliExpress but im bit concerned that they could be a knock offs and won't last long. Can you recommend a seller?
Many thanks
-
Hello everyone, my xbox elite series 2 was having major drift issues and I got both sticks replaced. My left stick works perfectly but my right stick's X axis registers only -83% to 100% so I don't get full range when I move it to the left. I have changed the sticks 2 more times but still have the same issue. what could possibly be the problem and is there a way to calibrate the right analog sticks?
-
There's no known way to calibrate them. If that's all the issue it has, take some sandpaper and lightly go around the opening in the shell to enlarge it so the stick can move farther. Alternately you can sand down the diameter of the stick where it contacts the shell so it's smaller thus it can move farther.
-
Hi all having some trouble with my RS replacement. Previous owner (bought from ebay) was too rough and have taken some of the contacts out of the holes and am hoping running traces is viable to get the new joystick working.
Worried about the first pic where some insulation was scratched off
Any help with where to run the traces would be much appreciated.
Thanks
(https://i.imgur.com/ciiGIHml.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/YCMzYcjl.jpg)
-
Hey guys, I tried to replace my left joystick and I lost these two parts, board doesn't turn on. Wondering if anyone knows the measurements for them so I can possibly hunt down a replacement part? Thank you guys in advanced. https://share.icloud.com/photos/0ac5YS1e1FZUGECET06dAFJ_g
-
@ bwabbit0p - Ignore the component on the left, that one is just some kind of protection diode for the LSX line. The one on the right though is part of some voltage divider and should be on there and it's 118k Resistor.
-
Hey, happen to have any idea where I could find some? I bought some but they're too big, not sure if they'll work
-
It's 0402 (1005 Metric) size, and it should also be 1% or better tolerance. DigiKey, Mouser and the like will all have it.
-
Hello I have an elite series 2 that had drift on the left joystick, I replaced the joystick and in the process I accidentally knocked off the component on CR13 I went ahead and replaced it and now when I try to power on my controller only the top profile light turns on, no Xbox button light and it is not recognized by my Xbox or PC what could be my issue
-
Hi guys, I have a similar problem to Ghepardo earlier in the thread and was wondering if anyone could help me. I'm still very much learning to solder and tried to replace the left bumper switch. I fear i may have brutalized the contacts for the switch pins though.
I've had switches in and out 3 times but it's not registering any clicks. I did clumsily drop some solder on the connector at J4, but other than LB everything works fine. Is J4 anything to do with LB?
Is there anything I should test with a multimeter?
Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
https://imgur.com/a/477anqm
-
@ Marcg5177 - Replaced CR13 with what? If you just put it back on, it needs to go on the right way as it's a Diode.
@ Jimachine - Looks more like you've taken hot air to that thing. The J4 connector is out of place now and needs to be reset onto it's pads.
The plating is missing from the LB line there, the square one. J4 needs corrected first. Then you can reinstall the LB and solder the 2 bottom leads first, they just hold the switch in place. Then on the top right lead, solder it to the bottom right one, as it's the ground for the button. Use a short jumper wire if needed. On the top left (square) one, solder a short jumper wire to it, then the other side of the wire needs to go to the other side of the board, top side of R23. That should get the LB working again.
-
Thanks RDC, really appreciate you taking the time to help me. I did try a heat gun after getting frustrated trying to desolder. Didn't realise J4 had moved. I'll try to sort that first.
As for the wire you mentioned, what sort of diameter would you recommend? I don't have any at the moment so just looking for advice on what to buy.
Again, massively appreciate your help.
-
30awg Kynar wire is kind of the standard Magnet wire could also be used. Anything 30awg or smaller will do though. You could take a little piece of some AC cord or speaker wire and use a single strand form that, as most of those are stranded wire, just make sure it doesn't short on anything as it has no insulation on it like Kynar or Magnet wire does.
-
Amazing, I will get some wire and give it a go. I can't thank you enough.
-
Hi RDC
I managed to get some wire and successfully got my LB working again. I was not successful trying to put J4 back into position though. I got solder all over the socket and ended up breaking it when trying to clean it.
https://imgur.com/a/vbs5Nl6
It sounds like TheOnlyUmagon had a similar issue but for the other similar socket (J2). I haven't damaged the pads or trace as far as im aware though.
Do you know what this socket is for? Is it possible to do another jumper to repair this one? I imagine it will just mean that the 2 boards will be permanently attached and will need desoldering to be separated.
Or do you know the name of the component so I could try and get a replacement?
Thanks
-
It's a coax connector for one of the antennas. No idea the exact series it is, as I've never had to replace one before, and there are loads of them that all look the same, but are completely different as far as the size goes.
-
Awesome, thanks a lot for your help again. I can see amazon sell some connectors that i'll try.
-
Hi
Does anyone know values of those 3? Controller is turning on only when cable is plugged when I disconnect cable after turning on controller works fine on battery .
(https://i.imgur.com/H4Zt1xu.jpg)
-
Left/Right are Resistors, Middle is a Capacitor. Left is 100k, Right is 100ohm, both should be 0.1% tolerance. Cap value is not critical, 1nF to 100nF will work fine there. All are 0201 size.
Resistors look alright, Cap is suspect. You can ohm check them in circuit, if they measure 100k and 100ohm they are fine. If they measure off, remove the Cap and test again.
-
Can I connect tactile switch buttons to control the rear paddles on the Elite Series 2 controller by wiring them to J19, J20, J15, and J16 (which interface with the pads J3&J4 for the back paddles)? Or, would I wire the tactile switches to the traces DB26, DB27, DB29, and DB30 for the tac switches to actuate the back paddles?
Additionally, I'm looking for information on the location of the contact points for the D-pad on the 1797 circuit board.
Thanks for any help!
-
The J or DB spots, makes no difference, going to be the same either way.
There are no really good spots for the D-pad, as that is all done over the IO Expander, schematic is on the first page. The only place to get at those is on the top board.
DU - R14
DD - R6
DR - R12
DL - R15
Either side can be soldered to as they are all just 0 ohm jumpers.
If you're making some kind of arcade stick and don't ever plan to use the original D-pad again, then you can just peel off the sticker at the D-pad there, remove the carbon coating from the center spots and solder to them. They all use ground for the common.
-
I also managed to screw up a bumper switch replacement (like a lot of others on this thread it seems like) and I'm completely stuck
https://imgur.com/a/qegkyeU
My LB is now registering always pushed, so I went looking for a short. On the working RB switch (which I didn't replace), if I apply 5v to the bottom left pin I can read it at the top left pin, but not the other way around, 5v on top left reads 0v on bottom left(???). On the LB switch, however, those both read 5v. I did expose some copper by the bottom left pin, but unless that copper's part of the top left pin's trace I can't figure out how they could be shorted. Also, as best I could tell from earlier in the thread, bottom left isn't even a live pin anyway and is only for mounting? Any ideas?
tldr LB always on and don't know why :help::beg:
-
You poking 5v around in there is going to do more damage, as that thing is 3.3v logic.
3 of the 4 pins for the LB there are Ground, with the bottom 2 just being for mounting. The top 2 are the LB button, right one is ground, then the left one (square pad) is the LB line. Check for too much solder at that square pad there, as the bottom left side of it looks like it could be bridging to the ground plane there.
-
Thanks, that pinout explanation was just what I needed! I found it had actually bridged on the top side which is why I couldn't find it :censored: removed and tried again and everything's working now!
-
Left/Right are Resistors, Middle is a Capacitor. Left is 100k, Right is 100ohm, both should be 0.1% tolerance. Cap value is not critical, 1nF to 100nF will work fine there. All are 0201 size.
Resistors look alright, Cap is suspect. You can ohm check them in circuit, if they measure 100k and 100ohm they are fine. If they measure off, remove the Cap and test again.
Hello, I have a problem with the 2 analog sticks of this control, they are both directed to the left and forward, but the sticks are very good and straight. After a few seconds they try to correct themselves by 0.01 msec (like a flash) and continue with this drift.
Can anyone give me information or where to purchase the schematic? :tup:
-
Hi,
I need some help identifying two parts on the board. See picture:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yyeQq8ZJq2TnMU51X12_ki8UcZwnkMEV/view?usp=drive_link
I have replaced my RS on my Elite Series 2, and broke down both of them from the PCB. I have only noticed it, when pushing RS did nothing after assembly. I need to replace them.
Could you give me the type and values of the parts to be able to replace them?
Thanks for your help!
-
Top part is some kind of TVS diode, not needed for it to work. The bottom one is a Resistor, 33ohm and does need to be there.
-
Thanks for the help!
I have bought the resistor and managed to solder it on the board. Now the RS button works again!
You are great! Thanks again!
-
Welcome.
-
Hi all! found a lot useful info here, hope you can help!
I have replaced left analog stick on my elite series 2, but i think i broke some component on the board during that.
When i plugged in controller battery it won't turn on. When i connected usb-c cable, that little thing gave me some smoke and sparks. So i found it was shorted.
then i desoldered it(actually cracked off, i don't have hot air unfortunately), and i think it was the only issue, because this thing was damaged a bit in process of replacing stick .
Controller can now be turned on, obviously my sticks are not working, left in top left position, right in bottom right position, all other buttons work. (Right stick reacts to movement a bit, left don't react at all)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mhqrstjImJdllSGNucylzVARLTJF_cNg/view?usp=share_link
This is my first time experience like that, was a bit hard to desolder old stick without hot air, so it looks messy, but i hope i didn't broke anything else.
Can you please help identify that component? there is C132 sign on it
component on reference picture
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MKU1nleJP0d9Gm5BLbUVb60W3FETM5cC/view?usp=share_link
pics of what i actually have
https://drive.google.com/file/d/17U7CdHEsVfhxC69y1PzgW8VHK8SXJJXj/view?usp=share_link
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ARMJyp690fn_vaQTza1MZtwf2MnzxmMh/view?usp=share_link
-
C132 isn't causing that issue with the sticks and the controller will work fine with it missing. You can put anything from 10uF to 22uF there.
The only way for the sticks to do that is if you shorted all 4 of the analog lines to ground, or the more likely cause, have no power going to the sticks. Best guess from the images is a short on the one solder joint there touching the ground plane, the one that has 3 times the solder of the others on it. Resolder and clean that one up and retest.
-
C132 isn't causing that issue with the sticks and the controller will work fine with it missing. You can put anything from 10uF to 22uF there.
The only way for the sticks to do that is if you shorted all 4 of the analog lines to ground, or the more likely cause, have no power going to the sticks. Best guess from the images is a short on the one solder joint there touching the ground plane, the one that has 3 times the solder of the others on it. Resolder and clean that one up and retest.
thank you a million for maintaining this thread! Will try and come back!
-
thank you a million for maintaining this thread! Will try and come back!
Unfortunately after cleanup and resoldering that pin, nothing changed. i tried to measure, and i really don't have power on that stick.
for measures i used your message with stick solder lugs
O O
G B o
Y
V B o
O O
V X G
On right stick i measured ~2v on both V pins, but no voltage for that pins on the stick im working on(left). maybe i need to look for shorts somewhere else?
i didn't put anything instead of c132, should i short it's pins with some wire?(that's stupid idea probably) i don't have replacement for that in place for now
EDIT: is it possible that i damaged something in internal layers when desoldered stick? by the way click button on new stick is working, so at least there soldered correctly :beg:
-
Voltage at POTs on the stick should be 1.8v on the outside lead, ~0.9v on the middle lead and 0v (GND) on the other outside lead.
The traces for the LSX, RSX and AN+ voltage are on the top layer, so you could have pulled the plating out of the holes and now they aren't making connection on top to the leads. Jumper wire from one of the the left stick V spots to one of the right stick V spots, doesn't matter which, and see what happens.
-
Voltage at POTs on the stick should be 1.8v on the outside lead, ~0.9v on the middle lead and 0v (GND) on the other outside lead.
The traces for the LSX, RSX and AN+ voltage are on the top layer, so you could have pulled the plating out of the holes and now they aren't making connection on top to the leads. Jumper wire from one of the the left stick V spots to one of the right stick V spots, doesn't matter which, and see what happens.
I did that
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fbNVmpIp4-mswr_S2D6WLpTQWXXMhMzo/view?usp=share_link
but no luck, controller power led is turning on, then goes off and on again, then recognized for 1-2 second and then just stay white led and not recognized by pc.
Im testing it without battery, just 2 main boards and type-c cable to pc.
-
That wire could be shorted on the ground plane at the right stick there from the looks of it. It's not going to work great even if you get that fixed, as you've also ripped J3 off the board there.
-
That wire could be shorted on the ground plane at the right stick there from the looks of it. It's not going to work great even if you get that fixed, as you've also ripped J3 off the board there.
wire not touching board from side perspective, anyway i tried to do that again with no luck. Looks like something shorted somewhere but i don't know where to look.
j3 fell off many times ago, as i understand it is wireless antenna connector, gamepad works with it broken with reduced range, but 2m is ok for me. That happened when i tried to fix face buttons almost a year ago, this thing just felt off. QC of this controllers is just something else btw...
Thanks a lot for your suggestions, i have money to buy new controller, this is just something for challenge :#1:
-
Well, i think i completely broke this board, so will leave it for now. Anyway it was interesting experience, maybe i will sometime come back and buy new board and solder hall effect sticks there.
Thanks RDC for your help!
-
Hey all!
This thread has been amazing! but alas I have a different issue. I have 2 controllers that won't turn on. one board had smoke coming from under the ARM chip that burnt a trace to a resistor that I believe was shorted. So, I will have to attempt to remove that but if I read this thread correctly its programmable so I can't just purchase any chip, I'll have to find a donor board in a worse state. The other board has power on both boards, but it still won't turn on. I have tested SW14 and its working. I have found a missing resistor on this board just left of the Arm Chip, but when I tried to take it from the other bad board, I lost it, and I don't know what its value was. If anybody else has further suggestions on what to check when it won't boot up, I'm all ears. (https://1drv.ms/i/s!Ah1gNLs1LYxmgp5Wzucy-5RXFWA3Jw?e=k49Ncl)
Picture link incase it didnt load.
https://1drv.ms/i/s!Ah1gNLs1LYxmgp5Wzucy-5RXFWA3Jw?e=k49Ncl
-
That one is a 0ohm jumper.
-
Hi,
So i'm trying to fix a board i got off of ebay. Looks like DB38 and a couple components above it were knocked off when removing the analog stick. Anyone know what these 3 components are?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/14RtPN0ukwQ_ekF3ckDkBOvuFnnb7AV9x/view?usp=drive_link (https://drive.google.com/file/d/14RtPN0ukwQ_ekF3ckDkBOvuFnnb7AV9x/view?usp=drive_link)
-
DB38 is just the test point there to the left.
Large component is a 4.7uF Cap (6.3v or more),
Smaller ones, left is a 1uF Cap (4v or more), right is a 1k Resistor.
Resistor is necessary or the LSY will not work, the Caps are optional and the uF values aren't really critical.
-
DB38 is just the test point there to the left.
Large component is a 4.7uF Cap (6.3v or more),
Smaller ones, left is a 1uF Cap (4v or more), right is a 1k Resistor.
Resistor is necessary or the LSY will not work, the Caps are optional and the uF values aren't really critical.
That did the trick! Thank you so much for your help.
-
Welcome.
-
Excuse me, the back of the board J15 where the back button is installed on the computer can not be used, but the back key module is easy to use, how to repair
-
How to repair what exactly? Post some pics of the damaged area.
-
Hi,
I was replacing the left thumbstick module and manged to lose the pad shown in the attached pic top and bottom. Am i right in saying that I could just run a jumper from the pin as shown?
https://imgur.com/a/fl9rtXA
Thanks in advance!
-
Correct.
-
Thanks, RDC.