Acidmods
Console Modding------ ( Here you can talk about your favorite Consoles ) => PS4 => PS4 Controllers/PS4 Rapid Fire Controllers => Topic started by: RDC on May 26, 2020, 06:10:34 PM
-
Not complete, may never be honestly. If you find any errors or have any known component values to contribute go for it, but I'm not in any kind of race to make this thing 100% complete, so it'll get updated when it gets updated as I'll have to verify any errors/values anyway before making changes.
SCHEMATIC- https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/JDM-055/1-982-707-31%20small/JDM-055__(31)__SOME__VALUES.pdf
TOP DESIGNATORS - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/JDM-055/1-982-707-31%20small/JDM-055_1-982-707-31_Top_Designations.jpg (https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/JDM-055/1-982-707-31%20small/JDM-055_1-982-707-31_Top_Designations_.jpg)
BOTTOM DESIGNATORS - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/JDM-055/1-982-707-31%20small/JDM-055_1-982-707-31_Bottom_Designations.jpg (https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/JDM-055/1-982-707-31%20small/JDM-055_1-982-707-31_Bottom_Designations_.jpg)
The PCB was basically stripped and reversed from a hardware standpoint, so I could make sure I knew where everything was connected. At that point I could have gone component by component to get all of the values recorded, but I just wasn't in the mood and wiped the thing clean to get at the meat of it. Being a 4 layer PCB it's the best way to go about it, unless you have access to a flying probe machine that can do a million continuity checks in a minute, plus want to spend all day programming in all the spots it needs to check. The PCB has 774 vias, for anyone that was curious.
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/JDM-055/1-982-707-31%20small/6%20-%20Core%20done.jpg)
TOP
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/JDM-055/1-982-707-31%20small/00.jpg)
TOP CLEAN
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/JDM-055/1-982-707-31%20small/0.jpg)
TOP STRIPPED
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/JDM-055/1-982-707-31%20small/1.jpg)
INNER 1
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/JDM-055/1-982-707-31%20small/2.jpg)
BOTTOM
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/JDM-055/1-982-707-31%20small/33.jpg)
BOTTOM CLEAN
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/JDM-055/1-982-707-31%20small/44.jpg)
BOTTOM STRIPPED
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/JDM-055/1-982-707-31%20small/55.jpg)
INNER 2
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/JDM-055/1-982-707-31%20small/66.jpg)
-
:nono:
OMG, how much time did it take?
Great job!
:tup:
-
Didn't really keep track, but it's just more tedious than time consuming really. Also not my first go at figuring out a schematic from a PCB. One that did take a little awhile to do was a Square D 8010 SPR-300 (https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/8010%20SPR-300/SPR-300_1228172117.jpg) programmer. It didn't work and I wanted to figure it out, so it had to all be done in a nondestructive manner. It came apart one component at a time, the component was tested and then after the PCB scans it all went back together. No SMT components in there and only 2 layer boards, but it had more than a few of them. Also not my first go at a 4 layer PCB, the one I did before this was out of a DeWalt DCB606 (https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DeWalt/DCB606/0%20-%201121191505.jpg) battery pack, which was potted on both sides, so loads more fun to be had there in that case.
Getting all of the component values and making the schematic 'presentable' is what will take the most time, as you don't know what layout will work best until you have it all on there and everything connected together. The core of the schematic doesn't take ages to do if all you want is a reference for where everything is connected, but then it looks like a plate of spaghetti topped with silly string wrapped with a bow on top in comparison to when it's cleaned up. Even that one is a little busy for my liking, but it's still not 'finished' as far as I'm concerned.
-
Уважаемый!
Можете подсказать. у меня не работает кнопка R2.
Проблема именно в плате, так как ставил плату в другой геймпад, и там кнопка так же не работает.
Геймпад долго хранился на полке с прижатой кнопкой R2. И похоже из за этого она перестала работать....
Какой контакт J5 отвечает за нее?
-
Уважаемый!
Какой контакт J5 отвечает за нее?
short this 2
(https://sun1-97.userapi.com/qsR5Jrb-Usgl8ehNECMhb8OH0ZTYeI5Kkp0MWA/q_FCbc-383c.jpg)
-
Not complete, may never be honestly. If you find any errors or have any known component values to contribute go for it, but I'm not in any kind of race to make this thing 100% complete, so it'll get updated when it gets updated as I'll have to verify any errors/values anyway before making changes.
Schematic- https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/JDM-055/1-982-707-31%20small/JDM-055%20(31)%20Cleaned%20SOME%20VALUES.pdf (https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/JDM-055/1-982-707-31%20small/JDM-055%20(31)%20Cleaned%20SOME%20VALUES.pdf)
Top Board Designations - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/JDM-055/1-982-707-31%20small/JDM-055_1-982-707-31_Top_Designations.jpg (https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/JDM-055/1-982-707-31%20small/JDM-055_1-982-707-31_Top_Designations.jpg)
Bottom board Designations - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/JDM-055/1-982-707-31%20small/JDM-055_1-982-707-31_Bottom_Designations.jpg (https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/JDM-055/1-982-707-31%20small/JDM-055_1-982-707-31_Bottom_Designations.jpg)
The PCB was basically stripped and reversed from a hardware standpoint, so I could make sure I knew where everything was connected. At that point I could have gone component by component to get all of the values recorded, but I just wasn't in the mood and wiped the thing clean to get at the meat of it. Being a 4 layer PCB it's the best way to go about it, unless you have access to a flying probe machine that can do a million continuity checks in a minute, plus want to spend all day programming in all the spots it needs to check. The PCB has 774 vias, for anyone that was curious.
IMPRESIONANTE tu aporte, tu voluntad, tu tiempo, lo que nos aportas...muchas gracias.
Luis de San Juan-Argentina
-
Bienvenidas
-
Thanks but do you have JDM-030 schematic? Or what the difference between a Jdm-055 pcb? Components are differently soldered on.
-
Nope. Most everything is different between an -030 and the -055.
-
Holy :censored: this is impressive work. Great job!
-
Thanks, though this is probably the easiest version DS4 board to do this to.
-
Awesome work! :clap:
-
Hi
Thanks for upload the circuit board info.
I unitentionally removed R58, and I don't know what is the value. Do someone know this resistor value?
Thanks in advance.
-
R58 = 100k
-
Hi
Thanks for the answer.
Are you sure? I've seen in another thread a post saying that, but I think that thread was about other model of controller.
Regards
-
Yeah, I'm not going there today. R58 = 100k.
-
Ok, I will solder a 100k. Thanks
-
Some measurements in diodes for search shorts on pcb 055 ok:
(https://i.postimg.cc/QF5VMx8d/JDM-055-1-982-707-31-Bottom-IMPEDANCIAS.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QF5VMx8d)
(https://i.postimg.cc/njwnk6FW/JDM-055-1-982-707-31-Top-IMPEDANCIAS.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/njwnk6FW)
BR
-
thats like measuring crocodiles with bananas.
-
Great Job! Maybe try to collect donate for other models?
-
If anyone wishes to donate anything, they can do so to the site, so it's still around for when/if I decide to do any more of this type of thing in the future and so that what has already been done on here has a place to stay. Thanks. https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php
-
@RDC
Great job mate, as always :clap: :tup:
I assume now I can troubleshoot the famous, "connecting only with wire" issue of the JDM-055 pcbs.
Maybe you have figured already what is causing it? :dntknw:
The fact that the controller doesn't connect wirelessly, only with USB, and that even the battery is fully charged, it will not flash light, points to a short near the BT chip or the chip it self. People so far had some success by replacing the BT IC but it costs an arm and a leg to buy that IC. Doesn't worth it I believe.
-
Thanks.
I haven't seen or heard of anything specifically causing that issue. The BT is built into the MCU chip now, so unless the filter network for it right before the antenna is all messed up there's not really much that can be done when just that part of it goes bad. Same for if the battery charging is all that dies, you have to replace that entire PMIC chip that does everything else on there because that one little section of it decided to stop working. It's a bit worse when it comes to the MCU because it has to come from another controller so it's been programmed correctly, so you have to harvest that MCU from another working controller, or at least one that is damaged in some other way and the MCU is still good on, there's no other place to get that replacement part from.
-
Thanks.
I haven't seen or heard of anything specifically causing that issue. The BT is built into the MCU chip now, so unless the filter network for it right before the antenna is all messed up there's not really much that can be done when just that part of it goes bad. Same for if the battery charging is all that dies, you have to replace that entire PMIC chip that does everything else on there because that one little section of it decided to stop working. It's a bit worse when it comes to the MCU because it has to come from another controller so it's been programmed correctly, so you have to harvest that MCU from another working controller, or at least one that is damaged in some other way and the MCU is still good on, there's no other place to get that replacement part from.
Yes I was afraid of that. There are some chips on the wild but with cost over ?20 each IC, doesn't worth it. It is better to make the controller parts than fix this or use a broken controller's working chip to replace the other's faulty.
-
The PMIC is the S2PG001A chip isn't it. Are there any known places that do this chip cheap?
Only found it on aliexpress and its expensive
-
Correct. Nope.
You can look around for fragged controllers at places, but it could be a crap shoot if the PMIC on those boards is good on it or not. $20 to save a $60 controller is kind of getting on the high side, but I'd prefer that versus adding it to the pile that isn't helping anyone.
-
Hello friend, thanks a lot!! Do you have information about JDM-040, 030, etc.?
How can I get them?
fantastic job
-
Hello, you're welcome. Nope, I have only done the -055 for now.
You can make them, like I did this one.
Thanks.
-
Hello friend, thanks a lot!! Do you have information about JDM-040, 030, etc.?
How can I get them?
fantastic job
While they're not the same, a lot of the same principles apply. So if a power rail goes from in 1 of one chip to pin 10 of the other, and both chips are also on the 040 version, they likely also have a power rail between them.
-
Can a missing R27 be responsible for an analog stick not working properly?
-
Doubtful. That's on some kind of data bus or something between the MCU and PMIC. It should be replaced though.
-
Do you happen to know the value?
-
It's in the schematic.
-
Is it? I'm blind, can't seem to find it
-
It's in a group of 5 there, kind of middle/leftish in the schemy, R28, R30, R38, R27, R29, or follow A17 out of the MCU.
-
I thought I was going crazy or blind or both! On mobile it doesn't show the valueshttps://prnt.sc/13dcsmh (https://prnt.sc/13dcsmh). But I see now on PC that they're 100k! Thanks!
-
Hi, does anyone know where can I reconnect the central pin of the y axis of the left analog? I ripped off and idk how to fix it :(
-
Hi, does anyone know where can I reconnect the central pin of the y axis of the left analog? I ripped off and idk how to fix it :(
u still have remaing trace on front side of board. i tgoes directly to mcu so only jumper wire should be used.
-
alguien puede decirme cuanto vale la R31 Y R32? La tire sin querer y con que medidas podr?a remplazarla o si puedo meterle una resistencia convencional de la misma medida, ya que no logro encontrar el repuesto
-
Both of those values are shown in the schematic.
-
(https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/754209584419438643/868968892515639326/332.jpg)
Corrosion destroyed that component (CM1?) along with the trace. Is that 2 filters in 1? I'm going to try to rebuild the trace, can I jump the trace and leave that component out?
-
It's a Common Mode choke, on the D+ and D- lines for the USB. It should work alright with the 2 traces jumped straight thru, especially if wireless is how you mainly use it.
-
I just accidentally ripped the battery connector :confused:
Is there a pin/pad where I can solder the battery directly to?
-
That's quite an accident, since it's on there pretty well.
Top side of the board, almost dead center of it on the left side edge is a TP spot for the B+. It is just above 2 Resistors there. For the B- side just use any ground connection in there.
-
Thanks for the quick reply RDC!
Yeah, I wiggled too hard on that connector...
Sorry but I can't find B+, could you maybe highlight it in the Top view?
-
help identify R59? C57?
-
C57 is just a decoupling Cap on the 3.2v rail, it will be fine with that missing. If you want to replace it you could use anything from 1nF to 1uF there.
R59 is shown in the schematic.
-
C57 is just a decoupling Cap on the 3.2v rail, it will be fine with that missing. If you want to replace it you could use anything from 1nF to 1uF there.
R59 is shown in the schematic.
how many ohms R59?
-
how many ohms R59?
much needed value R59
-
Already told you that is in the schematic.
-
help identify С63?
-
10nF. It is for decoupling from the voltage divider off the Battery voltage, the exact value isn't really critical. Anything from 1nF to 100nF would work fine there.
-
10nF. It is for decoupling from the voltage divider off the Battery voltage, the exact value isn't really critical. Anything from 1nF to 100nF would work fine there.
please tell me how many volts C63
-
No idea at all, because the meter doesn't measure that. Considering where it is, after the voltage divider from the battery, and that voltage divider is half because both of those Resistors are 150k. It will never see any more than half of whatever the battery voltage will be. During charging that's 4.2v, so around 2.1v will be on that Capacitor at most, so anything rated 6.3v or higher will be fine there.
-
Hello, I would like help to find the values of resistors R40, R41, R42. please
-
R40 - 46k
R41 - 68.5k
R42 - 46.6k
-
Thanks bro you saved me. :tup:
-
I lost C26. Does anyone happen to know it's value?
Someone else supposedly metered it out and got 6uf.
-
C26 - 4.7uF
-
Help identify c5?
-
C5, C6, C7 and C8 are all part of the RF filter and need to be pretty exact value wise. I doubt my meter is that precise, and accurately measuring 0201 components is about as much fun as trying to put a leash on a flea. Best thing to do there would be to get any of those parts from another board.
-
Thanks! What if I make a short circuit instead of replacing the capacitor C5?
-
hello guys, can you help me please .
Check this picture . https://i5.imageban.ru/out/2022/05/16/767bd515398107fc4a4a1dd920afe702.jpg
when i tried to replace Resistor i destroyed "contact (for solder)" on another gamepad, where i can resotre concat? i mean where i can take "a new way" for that? (LEFT ANALOG)
my eng is crap, sorry
-
@ Dzrn - Never short circuit where a Capacitor was, ever.
@West4it - There is no easy spot to solder a jumper wire. You will need to solder the wire from the lead of the POT to a Via.
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/Repair/West4it_LSY.jpg)
-
https://i1.imageban.ru/out/2022/05/17/8f32eeed4b46ad9c4c5ff7420aca520a.jpg
i thought motheboard had pins from both side and i can find another place for solder. why they do this "pins" not normal roads....
anyway, thank you , works fine :clap:
-
@RDC
can you help me again
please check these pics
https://i7.imageban.ru/out/2022/05/25/a867c48d90d71f5b7f03714e5412e35a.jpg
https://i3.imageban.ru/out/2022/05/25/355e5e92e9b4a31d23ed2edc96c43122.jpg
one my friend tried to change resistors and destroyed 3 contcacts for solder, i see only one road for the third legs of resistor, where i can get two others "roads" ?
and maybe here somewhere schema for jdm-20? i mean shematic, not pics
sorry for my eng
-
Bottom of board.
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/Repair/JDM-020_BOTTOM_RSX.jpg)
Top of board.
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/Repair/JDM-020_TOP_RSX.jpg)
-
Здравствуйте . Помогите найти наминал резистора r46 . Был утерян в процессе пайки. И есть проблема с правым стиком , он уводит в право . Даже если поставить новый.
-
R46 = 2.2 ohm
-
Hey guys, is c37's value critical, if so, does anyone know it by any chances?? Amazing work by the way, thanks for putting so much efforts in doing something that should be required to be done by the manufacturers, but is not, because filling their pockets with pieces of paper and chunks of metal is so much more important than saving the planet... :clap: :tup:
-
C37 is 10uF and that one I would replace.
-
C37 is 10uF and that one I would replace.
Nice, thanks for the reply, and yeah it's shorted and now my controller will only work while plugged, was gonna order a battery but decided to swap batteries with my other controller first just for fun, but it was still the same, decided to check the voltage and both batteries where fine outside of the controller, but they drop to 0.3v when i plug them in... so yeah, if it happens to anyone else, i'm pretty sure that C37 is the culprit since it's the only one i found that's shorted!! So thanks again, i'll order some caps and post back here to confirm if it's the case as soon as i get the chance to swap it!! :yess:
-
I have a jdm-055 with D-pad "Up"and R1 always on. Once in a while L1 also stays on. This is the case with flex cable removed (bare board connected via usb). I checked on the flex connection area J5, i am getting 1.6V on pin 6 and 2.3V on pin 15 (i believe they should be 0v in idle condition). Didn't get any voltage on pin 2 (as L1 problem comes and goes; not continuous issue). All other buttons, analog, L2 R2 etc works fine.
Is the ic MT3610 the issue as there is no other component to check as per schematics?
-
There are Pull-Up Resistors built into the flex board, PU1 and PU2, and with that thing not in circuit like that the L2/R2 lines are floating and the controller can do all kinds of weirdo things. If you are wanting to run the board alone like that, then you need to install a couple of Resistors on there to mimic the flex board being installed and then see if it has any issues. A couple of 10k will work fine for that.
-
I tried another good working flex cable. Still the same.
-
Didn't say flex cable, said flex board, the one that has all of the button contacts on it.
-
sorry my bad, you mean the conductive ribbon cable right with all the black printed buttons and 19 contacts. I changed the same thing.
-
This is the case with flex cable removed (bare board connected via usb).
Do you have the controller all together or not?
-
the button flex ribbon cable was cleaned with dry cloth and board was cleaned with IPA. It didnt work so i tested with a flex ribbon cable from a known good controller, still the same. During all this steps, controller was put back together with all screws and the casing was snapped together for proper pressure / contact.
As it didnt work and now knowing something on the board was the issue, I used flux and ran soldering on all pins of MT3610 and S2PG and it WORKS now. I dont have the skills to lift MT3610 IC and resolder it to the board (it has 2 rows of contacts which is a first one for me). But finally if nothing worked i would have done that. Glad it worked. Thanks for the help RDC.
-
Welcome. That piece of foam in the top half of the controller that keeps pressure on those contacts can come out of place, or need a shim behind it so it puts a little more pressure on the contacts when things are back together.
-
Yes i understand. Foam seemed to be in good shape and I never changed it. After reheating pins and adding flux, the pins have become white. Almost all pins were dull and dark. Maybe corrossion? I don't know. Anyway it's working great for now.
I have posted another question in a new thread about jdm11. Its very old controller but I'm really bumped by the issue.
https://acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,45041.0.html (https://acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,45041.0.html)
-
https://ibb.co/Q8Zz9Vx
Hi, i did short something in area 1 and now i have 0,37v on the 2 area. Did i short ICC chip, or maybe this one on the back of the PCB which is right under the battery outlet?
-
The chip on the other side under the battery connector is for the 6-axis, doubtful that's the issue. If you have 0.37v at the battery connector, then either that battery is bad or something is getting crazy hot in there and that's the bad part.
-
The battery is fine. When the battery is 4v it reads 0,4v; another battery 3,7v it reads 0,37v it drops by one decimal place. What could cause this? Does ic chip could be damaged??? but how it drops right away on the battery outlet????
-
Nothing is going to make the battery voltage drop 4v and nothing gets hot, unless the battery is bad or your meter isn't setup right.
-
Meter and battery are fine. On the same meter setting battery alone shows 4v. After plugging in it, drops to 0,4v. Tested on 2 different working batteries.
-
Then something is getting warm in there.
-
Hallo guys, does anyone know the value of the C41? There is also an capacitor on the same spot at the left analog for which I need the value too(https://imgur.com/a/GGeKIcz). Thank you in advance for your help!
-
Both of those are just on the 3.2v rail for decoupling, the value is not critical. They could be anything from 1nF to 1uF, and it will still work fine without them.
-
Thank you very much!!!
-
Good time of day. I am the owner of JDM-055. Changed S2PG001A. When soldering damaged ceramic SMD capacitors. Please tell me the characteristics of ceramic SMD Capacitors:
I found such data. Are they correct?
C26 - 4.7 uf;
C27 - 4.7 uf;
C28 - 2.2 uf;
C29 - 4.7 uf;
C30 - ... ;
C31 - ... ;
C32 - 1 uf;
C33 - ... ;
C34 - 100 uf;
C35 - ... ;
C36 - 4.7 uf;
C37 - ... ;
C38 - 4.7 uf;
C39 - 4.7 uf;
C40 - 10 uf;
C82 - 4.7 uf;
Please tell me the characteristics of ceramic SMD Capacitors that are unknown.
Based on this picture.
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/JDM-055/1-982-707-31%20small/JDM-055_1-982-707-31_Bottom_Designations.jpg)
Thank you in advance for your help.
-
12 of those have the values in the schematic, the other 4 aren't really critical.
-
12 of those have the values in the schematic, the other 4 aren't really critical.
Thank you for helping.
I found only 11 with characteristics. And 5 without characteristics.
-
And what is their operating voltage?
-
C37 is in there.
No idea what that spec is, you'll have to ask Sony, or poke around on every single cap of a working controller. I'd replace them with 25v or more rated caps and they should be fine.
-
C37 is in there.
Maybe I found the wrong scheme on the Internet. But I noticed that there are C37 values in this scheme. Thanks.
-
I'd replace them with 25v or more rated caps and they should be fine.
Thanks for the help. I'll know.
-
Maybe I found the wrong scheme. But there is no C37 denomination in it.
Find L1, then look right under it.
-
Find L1, then look right under it.
Yes, yes. I found it. I looked in a different scheme. Thanks.
-
Good time of the day. Tell me please. What is the size of the Capacitors?
C26 - 4.7 uf
C27 - 4.7 uf
C28 - 2.2 uf
C29 - 4.7 uf
C30 - ...
C31 - ...
C32 - 1 uf
C33 - ...
C34 - 100 nf
C35 - ...
C36 - 4.7 uf
C37 - 10 uf
C38 - 4.7 uf
C39 - 4.7 uf
C40 - 10 uf
C82 - 4.7 uf
There is nothing to measure, I can't determine by eye. I will be grateful for your help. Thank you in advance.
-
Does anyone have a jdm-055 schematic.dip?
-
You could measure the pads, or any of the surrounding Caps that are the same size. All of those are either 0201, 0402 or 0805.
-
I measured it on the spot, with two instruments.
C30 - 1uf.
C31 - Does not show the value. (Probably not working properly.).
C33 - 26uf ~ 215-250uf (On the one hand, one value. I change the polarity of the probes, another value.). I did not understand.
C35 - 1.2uf~1.3uf.
-
All of those are in parallel with other Capacitors or in a circuit where measuring it will not give the correct value. In circuit measurements like that are most often never correct.
-
All of those are in parallel with other Capacitors or in a circuit where measuring it will not give the correct value. In circuit measurements like that are most often never correct.
Yes, I understand that. When the capacitors come, I will drink, check and put new ones. Still take 25v Capacitors?
-
Good time of day. In general, this is the situation. I have soldered the entire S2PG001A harness. I checked all the Capacitors and Resistors. They are all serviceable. Sorry. Very sorry. I'm afraid that the processor has finally come to an end. There was a native controller, dualshock 4 worked, but did not charge. I soldered a new S2PG001A, dualshock 4 did not work. Ordered a new one. I put a new S2PG001A, it didn't work either. But already dualshock 4 does not react to anything at all. From the word at all. If anyone needs, Capacitors around S2PG001A:
C26 - 6 UF
C27 - 6 UF
C28 - 2-5,2,6uf
C40 - 10 UF
C29 - 5.7uf
C30 - 1.1uf
C31 - 1.1uf
C32 - 1.1uf
C33 - 1.1uf
C36 - 4.7uf
C34 - 120nf
C35 - 1.1uf
C82 - 6uf
C37 - 10 UF
C38 - 5 UF
C39 - 5 UF
-
Hi RDC bro, thanks for your work, i can find short capacitor on my jdm 055 board, it short 3.2 line
now everything is okay except gyro, it not working. i see 3.2vA line show 1.9v. Is this normal ?
do you have any guide for me :beg:
Thanks
-
If the 3.2vA line is 1.9v then a lot more besides the gyro is also not working. That voltage goes to pretty much every chip on there, except the PMIC since that's where it comes from. If it's really 1.9v then something else is loading it down, another bad cap or even the gyro chip, or any other component that 3.2vA goes to, or that PMIC is bad. Provided you have another one for comparison, a thermal camera works best for finding a component that's getting warmer than it should be and can help narrow down the hunt, but the ole few drops of rubbing alcohol will also work to help narrow down where the issue might be as it will evaporate off of a warmer, and especially hot, component faster.
-
Thanks for reply me, I figured out that I make a bad soldering pmic chip (when i injected voltage to find short capacitor, i desoldered it), no led voltage output, 1.9v at 3.2vA line, only 3.2v line work
So I am soldering it again carefully then now it?s fully working :victory:
-
Hallo guys,
I built a few years ago a cable witch which I could charge my PS4 Controller (JDM-055) via the EXT port. Yesterday I managed somehow to plug in the cable wrongly. So I connected the 5V output to the ground of the controller and the ground to the 3.2v of the controller. Now the controller is dead. Before I start to inspecting it I just want to ask you what components should I check firstly?
Edit: it fixed somehow itself
-
hello guys,
First I want to complement for the great effort being made in this forum.
Can anyone tell me the capacity for the C1 component?
-
Hi RDC again :tup:. I have a question about your schematic. I see 3.2v and 3.2vA come from pmic chip, but with 1.2v line for MCU, i dont know where it come from. Could you guide me about it?
-
It's most likely an internal regulator built into the MCU. I never bothered to figure out which one might be the output, but all it goes to are those 6 pins and a handful of decoupling caps.
-
Thanks RDC. Now I'm clear about it :clap:
-
Hi. I need value of R47. Thanks.
-
R47 = 1k
-
Hello again. I lost this guy during pmic replacement, is this C34? What's its value?
(https://i.postimg.cc/kBFgcjPS/C34.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kBFgcjPS)
-
Yes C34, value is in the schematic.
-
Didn't really keep track, but it's just more tedious than time consuming really. Also not my first go at figuring out a schematic from a PCB. One that did take a little awhile to do was a Square D 8010 SPR-300 (https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/8010%20SPR-300/SPR-300_1228172117.jpg) programmer. It didn't work and I wanted to figure it out, so it had to all be done in a nondestructive manner. It came apart one component at a time, the component was tested and then after the PCB scans it all went back together. No SMT components in there and only 2 layer boards, but it had more than a few of them. Also not my first go at a 4 layer PCB, the one I did before this was out of a DeWalt DCB606 (https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DeWalt/DCB606/0%20-%201121191505.jpg) battery pack, which was potted on both sides, so loads more fun to be had there in that case.
Getting all of the component values and making the schematic 'presentable' is what will take the most time, as you don't know what layout will work best until you have it all on there and everything connected together. The core of the schematic doesn't take ages to do if all you want is a reference for where everything is connected, but then it looks like a plate of spaghetti topped with silly string wrapped with a bow on top in comparison to when it's cleaned up. Even that one is a little busy for my liking, but it's still not 'finished' as far as I'm concerned.
hi how are you
i've had a lot of questions,but right now i have jdm-55 1-982-355-21 and charging not problem and detected by computer and all buttons is ok even buttons PS...and when i press the PS button it flashes but playstation would not identify it via cable :dntknw: :angry: and when press the Simultaneous button PS & share and it's flashing,it's detected that way.....please give me a guide as to what i should do and what to do :beg: :beg: :beg:
thank you for reading my message :drunk:
waiting for your reply:)
-
Hi. C60 value?
-
C60 = 33pF
-
Hello RDC. Great thread and info! As someone requested earlier, can i please have the capacity value for the C1 capacitor? :D
-
C1 = 2.2uF
-
I am not getting 3.2V on connecting battery or charger. Battery voltage as well as 5V from USB are showing up at at PMIC. Vcore voltage is also available.
I don't think I need to turn on the controller to get 3.2V. Given the situation, is it safe to assume that the PMIC is gone?
Another puzzling thing is that battery voltage being 4.1V is showing up as 3.44V and .66V at the voltage divider of R60 and R59. I believe it should be 2.05V and 2.05V. I de-soldered the resistors and checked them individually and both read 150K. There is no other resistor in line anywhere so I don't know what is going on. Any idea?
-
Remove C63 and recheck the voltage divider output. If it's good, then C63 is bad, if it's still low then the MCU is suspect.
-
Remove C63 and recheck the voltage divider output. If it's good, then C63 is bad, if it's still low then the MCU is suspect.
C63 is already removed. It is still the same.
If the MCU had issues, Vcore should not be there?
-
So, every vehicle with a running engine can drive too then? The only place that voltage divider goes is the MCU, hence if it's being loaded down the issue is most likely in the MCU.
-
So, every vehicle with a running engine can drive too then? The only place that voltage divider goes is the MCU, hence if it's being loaded down the issue is most likely in the MCU.
Does MCU send some signal to PMIC to make 3.2V?
-
No idea what the specifics of it all are, though once the battery is plugged in I'm sure there is some back and forth between the MCU and PMIC. The 3.2v rail is on all the time though, so it can tell if you have pressed the PS button and provided the battery voltage is high enough and the MCU can tell what it is.
-
No idea what the specifics of it all are, though once the battery is plugged in I'm sure there is some back and forth between the MCU and PMIC. The 3.2v rail is on all the time though, so it can tell if you have pressed the PS button and provided the battery voltage is high enough and the MCU can tell what it is.
I guess this one is for the parts bin then. Thanks for your help.
-
Welcome, but you should experiment a little then, not like you can really make it any worse. You might learn something that will help diagnose or repair other boards down the line. I'd leave that divider off there and inject 2v right onto A25 of the MCU just to see what happens.
-
Wow, this is brilliant! I'm creating a DIY hitbox using a PS4 controller with this board and found this post (this is my first message here).
Even though I did my time studying PCBs, I'm far from you guy's level.
I was able to map all buttons to connect to the hitbox and I think it might be of some help to other people trying to figure what is what: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Po5w3ThsIeH8I0sv7uOpvaqe8imJ-8i0/view?usp=sharing (it's a PSD file with layers for each button, you can use https://www.photopea.com to open and on the right, click to view each layer)
I'm still unsure how to to work with the share, option and trackpad buttons... can someone help me with this? Will I need to remove these "tiny mini micro pressure buttons or are there some mini terminals I'm not seeing?
Thanks!
-
Option button has a small pad just under it that could be used, easier to just pry the top off it and solder to the center contact though. Similar for the Share button, but it's little pad is on the other side of the board, again just easier to remove the top of the switch. For the TP, just wire to the bottom left lead of it. All of those buttons use Ground for the common.
If you are not going to have the FPC (Flexible Printed Circuit) connected to the main board, you need to install a couple of Resistors on the main board to 'mimic' that it is on there, or the L2/R2 will act weird and cause odd issues with the controller.
-
Option button has a small pad just under it that could be used, easier to just pry the top off it and solder to the center contact though. Similar for the Share button, but it's little pad is on the other side of the board, again just easier to remove the top of the switch. For the TP, just wire to the bottom left lead of it. All of those buttons use Ground for the common.
If you are not going to have the FPC (Flexible Printed Circuit) connected to the main board, you need to install a couple of Resistors on the main board to 'mimic' that it is on there, or the L2/R2 will act weird and cause odd issues with the controller.
Thanks, yeah, I'll pull that little push button and see what's below it :)
I intend to solder directly to the "main" PCB, this is why I did the schema of what connections go where. I imagined I would need to use something to trigger the analogic shoulder buttons as I want them to act digital.
Thanks for your reply!
-
Hi guys!
My controller stopped working and now it doesn't start even if I plug it to the console. The battery voltage drops to 0.3V and I have seen CPU gets a bit hot (with alcohol) and that capacitor C37 (I know it's 10uF) is shortened. Could it be just cap fault or the IC is damaged 100%?
Also, can I remove it and leave it like that (at least to just press PS button once) or do I need to replace it? I've seen it's next to L1 inductor and I suppose it's a filter or similar but a guy on YT just removes it.
Thanks!
-
You can remove C37 and test, but that Cap should be replaced if it is bad.
-
Thanks for the reply.
I've removed C37 and the problem is still there, even its pads are short-circuited, does this mean chip is damaged?
Also I don't know if I have measured continuity and capacitance properly but I think C8 and C16 are short-circuited too
Thanks
-
C16 is on the 3.2v rail, so there are about 12 other caps and eihter of the large ICs that could be shorted instead of that.
-
Sorry I wrote it wrong, it's C6 and C8 the ones that are short-circuited. Now I've seen C5 and C7 are in the same condition.
As they are part of the RF circuit, is there a something else to check or its better to buy a controller with maybe a broken joystick?
Thanks
-
C5, C6 and C8 will measure a couple of ohms with a DMM, that's not a short and is normal for that circuit if it's tested on the board like that. There is no C7, that is L3 in the schematic, need to fix that. That one will measure like a short as it's an Inductor.
-
Then I don't know what else to check. All capacitors and resistors are fine but I get 0.3V and it doesn't start.
I don't know if I'm measuring wrong but I removed C37 and there is still a short circuit between it's pads
-
The PMIC is suspect if there is a short there, U2.
-
So the solution would be change the PMIC right? I've seen it's on AliExpress but I don't know if it's complicated and it's better to buy another board with a broken joystick or similar
Also I've checked all rails and no shorts there
-
No idea if that's all that could be wrong with it or not. Might replace that and it works fine, or after replacing it that might uncover another issue.
-
Wow, great work on the schematic, must be a few hours buried into that.
I?ve come across this thread as I have been looking for a solution to implement a mic mute button or switch into this model controller. I?ve previously tried options using resistor and caps to ?ground? with limited success. These methods will mute ok but I?ve not been able to overcome the ?pop? as the mic mutes/unmutes.
I see in this schematic the dsp/pmic has a mic mute leg. Do you think this can be used for what I am trying to do or cant you see another option?
-
Labeling that mic mute was really just a guess. Grounding that pin will for sure mute the mic, but you'll still get that pop doing it that way. It's impossible to get a mic to mute with no pop by just pressing a button or switch, unless there's all kinds of other components involved. Even some really good setups that don't cause a pop use all kinds of other components, and then don't actually mute the audio completely, they just knock it down, or attenuate it, so far that it 'sounds' muted, but it's just really quiet.
-
Ok, cool, thanks for replying.
What started me down this path was I was looking at a friends Strikepack which can mute the mic without any of the pops etc. As the Strikepack connects the controller to the PlayStation via usb, I cannot know if the muting is happening within the Strikepack or wether it?s commanding the PS to mute.
-
Thank you so much for the schematics, amazing work.
Can anyone help me with this please?
I have a JDM-055 with no power/no charging.
I get the main 5V but no power in secondary lines.
I think all of them are OL. No shorts.
What could be the issue?
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/923823288592007178/1166299035817213982/image.png?ex=6549fb9e&is=6537869e&hm=e61eab54e50afe9f00f9293bda4b147f67c7d91fd671d63bd0ba5cb7d154f327& (https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/923823288592007178/1166299035817213982/image.png?ex=6549fb9e&is=6537869e&hm=e61eab54e50afe9f00f9293bda4b147f67c7d91fd671d63bd0ba5cb7d154f327&)
-
Does the controller work if you put a charged battery from another controller in it?
-
For JDM-055,
Any chance you could share a 3d file of it, I'd like to fit it in my 3d printed hitbox.
Just the outline will be sufficient since I'll only need the holes location to make 3d standoff posts.
-
https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/JDM-055/JDM-055.dxf
-
Thanks a bunch!
I'm doing an analog stick mod using arduino stick that looks like this.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Hkq881Zx/POGO.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I've connected Pins 1 & 3 to a DPDT switch to totally disconnect only 1 pin of each trimpot.
Question is do I need to use another DPDT switch for pins 2&4?
I'd imagine if its in DPDT POSITION 2, the internal pot that's connected to the board will affect resistance? Or it won't since the other side is disconnected?
(https://i.postimg.cc/pdwCd8v9/pogo2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
-
Doing it the way you have it wired there, half of the 'disconnected' POT will still be in circuit when the other POT is, and that will give you grief.
You can still do what you're wanting there with a single DPDT, and only 4 wires at the connector. Just wire up the X and Y Axis lines of the board to the 2 Poles, then your 4 Throws will go to the 4 POT Wipers. Power and Ground can stay connected to all of the POTs all the time.
The higher the value the Internal POTs are the less it will add to the current draw when both are connected at the same time. If you are using 30k that's fine, but you could use up to 1M in there and they will still work.
You could even use a DPDT switch IC and have that 5th connector pin make it turn on/off, so when you removed the external stick it defaults to the internal POTs. That connector also doesn't look keyed, aka can only be plugged in one way. If it is not keyed and can be plugged in either way, take care with the wiring so no issues are caused there in case it's accidentally plugged in backwards.
-
greetings and thank you so much for taking the time to make this ♥️🥰 I've run into an 055 with what is labeled as R71 confirmed to be blown
i do not have a known good board to compare against but on another board which has failed for other reasons, R71 tests at 7.5k
on the schematic R71 is just about the only resistor (or maybe the only one at all?) with no labelled value
additionally, the schematic shows it in line with a thermistor TH1 but on the Top Designators it shows no thermistor but instead an R72 which is entirely missing from the schematic
each document contradicts the other and contains no value for either, I'm fairly certain R72 and TH1 are supposed to be the same thing (possibly a resistor in the place of a thermistor)
can someone please confirm values, and if it is in fact a thermistor (and not a resistor)
-
R71 = 7.5k, and there are more than a few other Resistors that I don't have measured on there.
The R72 designator is really TH1. Fixed that now, and I'm sure it's probably not the only error on there you'd run across if you went digging. Thanks for pointing it out.
-
R71 = 7.5k, and there are more than a few other Resistors that I don't have measured on there.
The R72 designator is really TH1. Fixed that now, and I'm sure it's probably not the only error on there you'd run across if you went digging. Thanks for pointing it out.
in that particular region of the board, C79 is prior to a VIA (EDIT: and is in line with R71),
I'm not a schematic wiz and don't know the terms for designators on the sheet but i think C79 should be appearing before the "3.2vA" (which is probably supposed to be the actual VIA ?)
C79 has not been of concern in my particular case and i have not inspected to see if it's present in the schematic, but i did notice it's absence from the appropriate location
and regarding TH1 i just did a quick test by blowing on it while holding probes on it and observed a rapid change in resistance, so I'm fairly certain it's an actual NTC and not a resistor substituting for one 👍
-
TH1 was already updated.
C79 is on there and where it's supposed to be.
-
now for a slight change of direction 😅 if I'm going from 3 orange flashes with no resistor in place, to no signs of life at all with a correct value resistor in place, any idea what might i be looking for 🥺 coming up empty handed
(battery only, charger only, or charger and battery, as well as charged or depleted battery under the same circumstances, has had no affect on result)
-
Give the Reset button a long press, with a charged battery or on USB power, 10 seconds or so, probably not going to do a thing but it's an easy try.
If that does nothing, the first thing to always do is undo whatever you did, and make sure it goes back to acting how it did before. Then at least you'll know if you're still chasing the same issue or a new one you might have created.
You said that Resistor was blown also, no idea what you meant by that, but if it was actually nuked, then I'd suspect the MCU isn't too happy. Odd for a Resistor to just fail open without some real current going thru there, but it can happen.
Also need the battery plugged in as they aren't happy on just the USB cable alone.
-
found another blown resistor on the same power rail but different region, so that's probably going to solve my issue in a bit
but in the process of identifying that, i noticed that the touchpad button (switch) doesn't have pads shown on Top Designators, and the via that the switch goes to is shown there as an isolated via (trace missing)
-
Course the via has no trace, because there's no pad for it to go to. The Reset, Options and Share footprints aren't there either. Like I said, it's not complete and may never be.
-
understood but... is it okay to point out identifying wherever isn't, for potential future info? or should i just not?
-
THANK YOU SO MUCH. I had a resistor fall off while I was replacing the joystick on my controller (Which turned out to be the wrong one) and when I was removing it I found out that R31 was missing :cry2: . Thankfully through the amazing schematic that you provided I was able to take a the correct resistor from a parts board that I had and was able to fix it. Thanks again.
-
I just have a question. I somehow broke the start button, I don't know the name of the button to even search for, would you be able to assist me on that? and is it replaceable?
I am fairly new to soldering and not that good with the hot air gun, but I will give it a try if it was possible.
-
The Touchpad/Start button is a Tact switch, 6mm, SMT, 3.5mm Actuator height from the board. No idea what the gf rating is, higher the number the more fore it takes to press.
-
Thank you very much
-
https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/JDM-055/JDM-055.dxf
Heya, first post here, I'm looking to design a replacement PCB for JDM-055 using an RP2040 for opensource firmware like GP2040, I've designed several keyboard PCBs in kicad, and feel like this would be a nice project to allow for a more hackable PS4 controller. The dxf really helps out on my board size and shape measurements, but I was wondering if you've posted the PCB design files you have from your reverse engineering of the board. I'd love to work off of your placement and measurement data, especially on those control pad flex cable contact points.
-
Interesting, curious to see where that goes. My gerber files are not what I would consider to be that accurate, as I never intended to make a drop in replacement board. They are mainly just an 'eyeball' way for comparing the schematic to the board to make sure that it matches.
The FPC pads are 1.15mm spacing, then 2.3mm between the rows, the actual pad size is really subject. You may run into issues with those mating to the FPC if the contacts on your board are flat, versus the slight carbon coating build up they did on the actual board. Having the board done ENIG and making sure there is as little solder mask around that mating area as possible, like the original is, will give you the best chance they make a good connection without adding to the PCB build. Could do HASL and make solder 'bumps' on the board pads, but I'm not really a fan of that as the solder alone doesn't make for a great contact only connection. If the mating half of it can 'dig' into it a bit then yeah, but there is nothing on that FPC to do that, though that might work alright for testing purposes. Could also do either and use some carbon ink on them to replicate the original design.
-
JDM-055.
Initially, everything was OK, then I pressed the USB port for better contact and after that the joystick stopped being detected (strangely). The 5V, GND lines are ringing, D+ D- are ringing from USB to the inductors on the main board too.
The joystick is not detected by the computer. I replaced the SPG chip. The situation is the same. 5V is supplied to the chip. Is there a 3.2V output. Should there be any other voltages when connecting USB, or am I looking for the wrong one?
I changed the USB-pcb, I ribbon-cable too - the result is the same
Main CPU dead? But battery does not charge :(
-
Hello Great Job Thanks for that I want to ask u what meaning for CM1 mentioned in PDF because I have same board and have short in board (http://)
-
CM1 is a Common Mode choke, it's just 2 Inductors in the same package on the USB data lines.
-
How do I get a pcb controller ps4
-
Hi Dear
u do great job since there no schematic for DS only u do that, If I have A died DS4 What first thing to test, Help me plz beacuse Iam new on repairing DS. Best regrads