Acidmods
Console Modding------ ( Here you can talk about your favorite Consoles ) => Xbox One => Xbox One controllers/Xbox One Rapid fire Controllers => Topic started by: RDC on October 28, 2018, 05:20:27 PM
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The Elite controller added a switch for changing between controller profiles and 4 additional buttons on the back. At the core it's pretty much a 1697 though, just seems to have updated firmware and slight hardware changes for the aforementioned changes.
1698 BUTTON/POWER BOARD TOP
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1698%20TBT.jpg)
1698 BUTTON/POWER BOARD BOTTOM
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1698%20TBB.jpg)
1698 MCU BOARD TOP
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1698%20BBT.jpg)
1698 MCU BOARD BOTTOM
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1698%20BBB.jpg)
1698 ALTERNATE BUTTONS BOARD TOP
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1698%20ABT.jpg)
1698 ALTERNATE BUTTONS BOARD BOTTOM
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1698%20ABB.jpg)
J1/J5 Connector Pinout
1 - RUMBLE MOTOR+
2 - DR
3 - DU
4 - DD
5 - DL
6 - SY
7 - SWITCH (1 Grounded, 2 Open)
8 - 5v USB
9 - LB
10 - D+ USB
11 - POWER OK / SHUTDOWN
12 - D- USB
13 - GROUND
14 - GROUND
J2/J6 Connector Pinout
1 - V+ (3v Wired), (Battery Voltage Wireless)
2 - LED (under GU, does not drive LED directly)
3 - GROUND
4 - 3.3v
5 - RB
6 - GU (thru D27) Only Guide will work if J2/J6 pin 6 is used for new/alternate Guide button. Use Cathode side of D27 on Power/Button board or controller will not power on when it's pressed.
7 - USB Cable LED
8 - A
9 - X
10 - Y
11 - VW
12 - MN
13 - PNC DETECTION
14 - GROUND
BUTTON/POWER BOARD TEST POINTS
TP1 - Manufacturing test point of carbon film at SW7, X button, ~115 ohms to ground (top side test)
TP2 - Manufacturing test point of carbon film at SW7, X button, ~115 ohms to ground (bottom side test)
MCU BOARD TEST POINTS (some)
TP3 - RESET_b
TP15 - SWD_CLK
TP17 - SWD_DIO
TP21 - GND
TP89 - 3.3v
TP99 - LSY, goes thru R50 first, 1k
TP100 - LSX, goes thru R34 first, 1k
TP101 - RSY, goes thru R58 first, 1k
TP102 - RSX, goes thru R57 first, 1k
TP103 - AN+ (vRef)
TP104 - RT
TP105 - LT
TP106 - LSC
TP107 - RSC
TP110 - GND
TP118 - 3.5v (Rumble)
TP130 - GND
TP132 - GND
TP133 - GND
TP134 - GND
TP135 - GND
TP137 - GND
TP138 - GND
ALTERNATE BUTTONS BOARD TEST POINTS
FT1 - SW4
FT2 - SW3
FT3 - SW2
FT4 - SW1
FT5 - GND
FT6 - GND
FT7 - GND
My Schematic* of the Button/Power Board - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1%201698%20TOP%20BOARD.pdf (https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1%201698%20TOP%20BOARD.pdf)
* Information will be updated when/if I get them scoped and/or figured out.
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does anyone have anymore information on these controllers?
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Hello i have a problem Whit mine
This problem consist when i plug the control to the pc it looks like the right stick goes up and then i pulled out from the pcb to replace whit another wich is working but the pc detects the right stick and still goes up but this time without the whole stick and sensors
What could make this problem?
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Broken trace, cracked board, solder bridge.
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Ok rdc thanks for your fast reply XD
So i checked continuity’s betwen r58(rsy) and tp101 its ok
Also i checked the value of the resistance (r58) and its fine (1k)
So what other parts of the board need check
Thanks in advance
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The solder joints of the POT, and anywhere you put the iron to it. A pic of your board might help.
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Sorry for my late response but already dont have the mobo but tomorrow i gonna post a picture of them
But i can say it was using the controller with a jumper from the rsy diode to the second pin of the sensor cause i blowed up the line XD
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I tried to repair my Xbox One Elite controller and in the process of removing the analog sticks, I seem to have removed the component on D27 as well. If possible, could I please get information on that component so I can try and replacement for it?
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It's some type of TVS Diode, I haven't bothered to dig any more than that. It's not needed and will work perfectly fine without it.
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It's some type of TVS Diode, I haven't bothered to dig any more than that. It's not needed and will work perfectly fine without it.
Ah TYVM for the info! I'm still fairly new to repairing stuff so things like this are over my head. >_<
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Ok so i dont know how to upload images to this forum but now the left stick is failing to but this time i don move nothing if i found a way to post the images I’ll do XD
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Pick any one of the multiple sites for uploading images, then just post the link.
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My right stick on my Elite is perpetually drifting to the right. I'm using the Game Controller Tester app for W10 and it is saying that there is a drift of 20% to the right and I've swapped out 3 different analog sticks to no avail, only to get this result in perpetuity. Would there be something on the board itself that is causing this? I don't think the POTs themselves are the issue at this point as I use this app to root out bad POTs and I've never seen this before.
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The only things on the RSX line are D27, C25 and R57.
D27 is some type of TVS Diode, an issue with it would cause a drift left.
C25 is just for decoupling,and if it were even partially shorted, again it would drift left.
R57 is in series with the Wiper of the POT and would cause no drift either way.
What you most likely have there is a controller that was calibrated from the factory with a crap stick in it, and every one you've put in since has just been a decent one. You'll need to tweak the POT to get it straightened out.
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The only things on the RSX line are D27, C25 and R57.
D27 is some type of TVS Diode, an issue with it would cause a drift left.
C25 is just for decoupling,and if it were even partially shorted, again it would drift left.
R57 is in series with the Wiper of the POT and would cause no drift either way.
What you most likely have there is a controller that was calibrated from the factory with a crap stick in it, and every one you've put in since has just been a decent one. You'll need to tweak the POT to get it straightened out.
I've been trying to adjust that POT, but unless I can figure something out, the through holes are too narrow to get the POT to play nice. The only thing I can think of now is try and get a daughterboard(or w/e the technical term is) off eBay. Do you know if the factory calibration is bound to the controller's daughterboard(?), or motherboard?
Regardless of this thing driving me to early baldness, I thank you for the help!
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Not sure what board you're referring to, but you'll have to change the whole MCU board, or at an difficult minimum U1, from another like board to get 'rid' of that issue there.
How are you trying to tweak the POT there? - https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,44225.msg334779.html#msg334779 (https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,44225.msg334779.html#msg334779)
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Hi everyone,
I was wondering if anyone have photos of the button board? Saw all the others have them except this one.
thanks in advance.
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Until I get a hold of a board from one to scan here, this is what's on the forums for now on it. https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,44307.msg330554.html#msg330554 (https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,44307.msg330554.html#msg330554)
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Many thanks
could you give me some advice for an elite controller? RT is stuck on and i have looked for track damage but all seems good and also replaced the 304 transitor and nothing has helped?
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Welcome.
That 304 part is a Hall Effect sensor.
The Triggers are pulsed, so you really need a scope or Logic Analyzer that can also do Analog to see what is going on there accurately, but they still go Low to activate, so I'd look for a short on the RT line, which is pin 2 of the Sensor.
1 - VDD
2 - GND
3 - OUT
3
[ ]
1 2
Could be the Cap in the RC filter is shorted causing it. C36, around TP104, close to the bottom left corner of U1.
You can use a DMM to compare the LT sensor measurements to the RT one and see where things are different. That will also give some more info on where to start looking.
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Hey, so I've changed the left stick on my Elite controller, no lifted pads, everything good after the repair i tested the deadzone, the click of the stick and it was working fine
Two hours later the controller doesn't turn on, with batteries or with the micro usb cable
So i open it and test for shorts (without pluggin in to the micro usb or with the batteries, nothing, i plug it in with the batteries, shorts everywhere the same with the micro usb port
So i own an 1697 controller to test which board is faulty and for my surprise is the Joystick board, i can't get it running, I've removed C47 and the controller want to turn on, but the light is so dim
Does anyone have an advice for me?
thanks.
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Hey, so I've changed the left stick on my Elite controller, no lifted pads, everything good after the repair i tested the deadzone, the click of the stick and it was working fine
Two hours later the controller doesn't turn on, with batteries or with the micro usb cable
So i open it and test for shorts (without pluggin in to the micro usb or with the batteries, nothing, i plug it in with the batteries, shorts everywhere the same with the micro usb port
So i own an 1697 controller to test which board is faulty and for my surprise is the Joystick board, i can't get it running, I've removed C47 and the controller want to turn on, but the light is so dim
Does anyone have an advice for me?
thanks.
Update, when the micro usb cable, the computer tries to recognize it, but fails, and when holding on the xbox button there's a little bit of light, with the batteries on U1 and the caps around it are shorted, U3 and the caps aren't, c47 also is shorted when the batteries are on, also c47 it's getting right voltage 3.3v the same as pin 1 on the J6 connector, I'm stuck because i know for a fact that the joytick board it's the faulty one.
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You can't measure Resistance with power in the circuit, and you're likely to damage your meter at some point doing that.
The 3.3v on pin 4 of J6 is the one that powers the controller. Check there for a short to ground, though if there is one it could be anywhere on that board. Could also inject 3.3v there and see if anything gets warm/hot fast.
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Hi, i have a 1698 board its not picking the mic up but can hear the the sound perfectly i have tried multiple headphone jacks . Headset tested and works in other controller any ideas anyone ?
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Haven't seen that issue before. Compare it to a working board and look for anything that was knocked off. Some of those components are right small and it doesn't take much for one to get broken off and then overlooked. Right around the headset connector as well as ones on the other side of the board. PK6 is the MIC input connection.
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Update the controller first and foremost, then go to controller, audio, switch the mic off, move all the audio, gamer chat bars up and down, then put back to the position you want, then switch the mic tab back on. This should work. If not just replace the Audi jack, couple of quid on eBay. Lift the pins on the new Audi jack also prior to installing
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Thanks for the reply, I have tried updating the controller multiple headphone jacks, Turing mic off/on in audio settings nothing seems to work I’ve had a look around pk6 comparing with a different board and can’t see nothing nocked off driving me crazy haha.
I have another elite controller that had RT constantly pressed.i switched out the 304 and c36 and it fixed the problem RT was working again, after that I replaced the usb charger port as it was on the way out. Controller turned on then after about 5 mins just went off and wouldn’t power on with battery’s or the usb but the home button was lighting up slightly but wouldn’t power on fully Sometimes you press it and it turns on,connects then goes off Again you will press it again it won’t turn on. Any ideas see if I can get this one working instead. Any help would be appreciated.
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Provided we're talking about 2 complete and separate controllers here, use the Top board from the bad headset controller and bottom board of the repaired RT one. Then you'll have 1 good controller and one really pooched one that you'll be less inclined to mess with and can use for parts boards. ;)
Unless the issue is with the repaired RT bottom board? That wasn't really specified, in which case the aforementioned Top board should be tried on that controller to rule it out and narrow down which board has the issue first.
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It’s both bottom boards that are damaged. I took the bottom board with the audio fault and replaced it with the repaired RT board and it powers straight up but still has the Audio issue so cant use that one. Would it have anything too do with the [u10]304 or the c36 that I swapped out that’s literally all I swapped out it was working before. Sometimes it will sync in then 10 seconds later it turns off. :beg: :beg:
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Well that really doesn't make any sense, you say that you replaced the bottom board with the audio issue with the repaired RT board (also a bottom board) and still have the audio issue.
What did you replace U10 and C36 with? Use hot air or a soldering iron?
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Sorry if that didn’t make sense, it’s definitely the board with the thumbsticks on which have the faults. The controller now powers up every time but the RT no longer works it’s not constantly pressed like it was before I changed them. I used hot hair too remove u10 & c36 & solder iron too solder them. Do you think I have damaged them and need too replace them again? Thanks for the help much appreciated.
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Measure the voltages on the LT sensor leads, Trigger not pulled as well as fully pulled, then compare them to the measurements of the RT one. Also make sure the Magnet is facing the correct way, because if that thing comes out of the Trigger and is installed the wrong way pulling the Trigger will do nothing.
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Hello everyone, everything good.
I have an elite controller here that keeps checking the RT constantly
some of you could help me please :beg: :beg: :beg:
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The Triggers work pretty much the same on all controller versions, not much has changed in the last 4 years with them. https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43988.msg327601.html#msg327601
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Hi all,
I'm having a bit of a problem with my controller. I bought a faulty one off of eBay, got it working for the most part (the J6 connector was broken off, tried to resolder but it didn't work out to well, botched the joints and I don't have an air station so I ended up getting a new board after breaking the connector off. At least I have more spares now :laughing:).
My problem is the bottom right paddle, labeled P2, doesn't work at all. All of the other paddles work fine. I'm trying to find out what is along the line of the connection for the paddle to troubleshoot, but I'm not finding any info online. Can anyone help? I already tried the usual suspects, flex cable, checking for dirt, dust etc, the button seems to click just fine and everything looks good both on the paddle board and on the main board. I believe the trace goes directly to the big IC to the right of the flex connector on the right. I hope I missed something really obvious. This kind of small stuff not working REALLY annoys me. :censored:
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Just because those things click doesn't mean they are making a connection when they're doing it, that one will get you every time.
You can check the 4 TP spots on the MCU board, no power to the controller, they should all measure a meg or so to ground as far as a Resistance check goes. If one of them is wonky there's a problem on the MCU board. Then you can activate them that way to see if they all work, then at least you'll know if the issues is for sure on the MCU board or the Alternate button board.
They are all right at the J10 connector on the MCU board, just ground each one at a time to
TP121
TP122
TP123
TP124
Top side of the MCU board (same area as J10 on the bottom) check R52, R54, R55 and R56, should all be 1k.
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Can anyone help identify which board would need replacing to fix a wireless connection issue? My Elite 1698 is orrfect working order but only works via USB (flashing continuously when unplugged)
Have tried all troubleshooting - Im hoping the 2nd board could be replaced and maybe fix?
Thanks
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The MCU (bottom) board is the one that has the wireless bits. Try to update the Firmware on it and see if that straightens it out.
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Thanks, Ive tried that multiple times but not made any difference. Will hunt a new MCU board and see if that fixes my issue.
Appreciate your help!
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The MCU (bottom) board is the one that has the wireless bits. Try to update the Firmware on it and see if that straightens it out.
Just to check, that is the board without the control sticks?
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Nope.
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Hi everyone,
can someone tell me what is the value of C22 and what kind of components are D15 and D25?
thanks in advance.
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C22 = 100nF
D15 and D25 are some type of TVS Diodes, it will work perfectly fine with them missing.
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Hello people.
yesterday I changed the analog of my elite control, everything went well.
but now button B is being pressed constantly. can someone help me please
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It doesn't sound like it went well.
Those 2 things have nothing to do with each other on the board. Take the controller apart and clean the B button contacts with some rubbing alcohol and see how it works out of the shell.
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I know that both parties are not connected. I did what you told me to do, but still it is as if I were pressing the B button.
there would be some point in the mcu to be examined. I don't want to pere my controller.
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It doesn't sound like it went well.
Those 2 things have nothing to do with each other on the board. Take the controller apart and clean the B button contacts with some rubbing alcohol and see how it works out of the shell.
Hello RDC. I?m having the same issue here but my problem is the profiles switch (1-2), whenever I swap to either 1 or 2 the controller will start registering X and B (on profile 1) and B on profile 2, I checked everything and seems okay, is the MCU board that has the issue, already swapped a main power board and still the same, checked every pin on J5 and j6, the controller does this with the paddles board either connected or not. Any idea where should I look here? Is not a paddle issue, is something related to the SWITCH lines but don?t know where to look for either a short or not, I heated the board and it fixed it TEMPORARILY, after I switch to any profile then it would start failing by registering the previously mentioned buttons.
Kind regards.
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I havne't traced that thing out entirely, but the switch line seems to run straight to the MCU. Maybe try updating or redoing the FW on it and see if it straightens out.
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Hey, I took my controller apart to fix an issue, and apparently broke off the C3 cap on the button board. What's the value/footprint?
Also, while I see a lot of people are doing LED mods, I can't find the specs for the D19, what are they or where do I get them?
Thanks
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C3 value isn't anything special, so anything from 100nF to 10uF would be fine, or you can just leave it off there, it's not going to cause any issue missing.
D19 is just a White LED in an 0805 size package. No idea of the exact specs, probably something around 3.3v @5mA or so, but you can put anything in there around those values without having to do anything else. If anything needs changed it would be R5 from 80ohms to whatever your LED requires. The source voltage there is 3.5v for the LED, and plenty of online LED Resistor Calculators around to see what that will get you once you start plugging in your LED voltage spec and such.
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Man first thing, thank you so much for this resource!
I've been trying to fix a 2nd hand series x controller for ages, finally managed to make some progress thanks to this.
Run into an issue where after replacing the left stick potentiometer where it's max values and is inverted. Can't figure out what to do.
I had some issue finding the right temp and technique for desoldering it, I had to reattach c37 (it fell off, hoping it's not directional) and u11 (but I think they're trigger related anyway).
D15, C22 and R50 look ok (c22 is a degree or 2 out of straight).
I'm also now finding the Y button is permanently on (might be unrelated and I just let junk get under the membrane).
Not sure what this forums policy is for images or image links but happy to if someone was interested in taking a look.
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Welcome.
Really don't understand the issue with the stick, as that doesn't make any sense the way it's described.
There are no polarized (directional) capacitors on the controller. C37 is just a decoupling (filter) cap on the VCC (power) rail for U11 (Hall sensor) for the LT.
How components actually look is irrelevant to how they actually behave, just like people. All of those components are related to LSY (Left stick up/down) and only R50 (1k) is really needed there for it to work.
Stuck Y button is either some garbage on the contacts or some kind of short or pull down happning on the Y button line somewhere. Could be some garbage under the MCU (there are 121 solder joints under that thing as it's a BGA package) causing it or it could be a shot MCU. Could also be that one of the alternate buttons is remapped to Y and that alternate button line is causing the issue and just looking like Y has the problem.
You can post images or links. If they are posted in the forums just remember that not everyone has a 30+ inch type of monitor setup, so if the image has to be huge to get the point across then please link that image.
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Thank you!
I fixed the stick issue, I'd popped off the potentiometers at one point. Had the idea that it would be easier to solder fewer pins at a time onto the board. I was struggling to clean the holes of solder at the time (I wasn't going hot enough).
In popping them off, I'd managed to rotate the disc part of the potentiometer by 180, which seems to have led to max inverted output.
Good to know about the caps!
You were right about the Y button, had some dried flux on the stick daughter board, I think it was bridging some probe points(?), it was near the ribbon cable connector. Works after cleaning.
I've not got an issue where the dpad doesn't work other than up, no idea why. I reseated the green plastic cross with the last assembly as I was getting a mushy/hard to activate down before. It is aligned/seated like various teardown images show it to look.
The stick now works, but even after calibration it's inconsistent in center value and max values. I'm imagining it's probably related to the previous manhandling of the potentiometers and I'm guessing I should put on a new one.
Ah gotcha, makes sense.
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Hello can someone help me ?
I tried to desoldering joysticks but Even with desoldering gun it was a nightmare to desoldering i deceided to cut legs but of course i broke 2 component? help me to find the reference and value please !?
I search D18 and C20 I know it's condensator and diode but i don't know what to buy ? Any advise value or link on ebay ?
(https://i.imgur.com/9UDQGL7.jpg)
:beg:
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Just remove what is left there and clean up that area, it will work fine without them in there.
Also, not everyone that views the forums does so on a 42+ inch monitor.
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Ah ah i dont use 42 inch monitor too i dont know why the picture is big.
Ok so these compnent are not important ok i will solder new one to try. Thank you
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I had a friend ask me to repair the left stick on his controller, and when I got it opened up, D24(to the bottom left of the left stick, top side of PCB) had somehow already fallen off. Is this a necessary component or can it work without? I am able to if need be, but I'd obviously rather not tear apart my own elite to figure out that diode's polarity and go through sourcing a replacement if I don't have to. Thanks!
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It's not needed, as long as the pad and traces are there are still intact it will work.
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Awesome, thank you! For a question I feel a bit more silly for, is there any chance you could tell me the pads to solder the rumble motors and triggers to? I took the controller apart probably 2 weeks ago and can't remember which pads they were on. I do know they're the numbered "SQ#" pads. Appreciate the answer, and the help, this is an awesome resource and thread btw
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Look at the MCU board schematic for the 1537 or the 1708 version in the pinned topics, they are all the same for those connections. The polarity doesn't matter either, motor is just going to spin backwards, but it's still going to feel the same.
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Hey trying to revive this old thread! I'm having a hell of a time trying to get my "B" button and "RS" click to work.. I've spent an eternity over the magnifying glass and cant seem to come up with anything.. on MCU board bottom is there supposed to be something clipped into "CR1" (top left)? Any info would be greatly appreciated, I've replaced the analog still to no avail. All other functions of said analog work properly though, left/right/up/down.. Someone please shed some light! :beg: :beg:
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CR1 is not used.
Both B and RSC run pretty much straight to the MCU. I could possibly see some traces or thru hole plating getting knackered up causing RSC not to work, but there would be pretty obvious signs of it if that's also what was causing B to not work.
That MCU is a BGA chip, and all kinds of funk can be going on under there causing issues. Try giving the BGA chip a good cleaning underneath, just use rubbing alcohol and compressed air and hit it from all 4 sides one at a time, and see if anything changes. If not, then reflowing it might straighten things out, though I'd still look it over more than a few times for any more obvious signs of damage before going that route.
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Could anyone tell me the value of C24? Also, D16 isn't listed on your schematic, RDC. I fudged and ruined/lost R32, C24 and D16. I hoping that is the cause of my -100% X on the left joystick.
Also, RDC you are crazy awesome and we love you
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If you really loved me you'd pay, attention. ;)
The schematic there is the Button/Power board only, the top board, and you are talking about MCU board issues and parts, the bottom board. There technically is a D16 on the top board, but it's not installed, so no real reason for it to be in the schematic.
D16 is not required for the controller to work, it's just a surge protection thing.
C24 is 100nF and not critical for it to work.
Not sure what R32 missing would do, it's not near D16 and C24, R34 is though, so not sure if that's a typo or the actual missing component? Regardless R32 is 0 ohms, R34 is 1k. R34 missing would make the LSX line float and would act all weird.
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Aww damnit. Reading comprehension :dntknw:
yes, I meant R34. Thank you. Hopefully, I can bring this stupid thing back to life, after i ruined it.
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D15, D23, D24, D26, C26, C27, C39
I'm looking to see if it's possible to buy diodes and capacitors.
What is the type of diode and the capacity of the capacitor?
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Is the LED light needed to make the board function?? I have one where it USB doesn't seem to work and nor do batteries and the only issue appears to be missing the LED light. I tested by trying to sync since you know the xbox logo on the xbox it self will change it flash pattern
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LED is just for visual feedback, it has no bearing at all on the controller working or not.
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Hello !
I have an elite 1 controller with a left analog stick drifting. First thouhgt i replaced the analog with a new one and wired between pins and testing points.
It works for temporarily but after i tested it a little bit while, it start drifting again and now it's competely drifting to the up.
(https://i.imgur.com/HpXX6qG.png)
The tester still shows that i can move left and right, but down is no response.
I use multimeter to measure the voltage of LSY, LSX, AN+, and LSC. AN+ shows 1.8V so it's normal. LSC shows 0V. LSY only shows 0.03V, i think it's a bit to low but it's the reason that the controller drifts, right ?
I don't have any idea how to repair it now. Mayby try to put a new one in it ? Do anyone have idea what to do next ?
(https://i.imgur.com/1Etqf5k.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/h9KADqL.jpg)
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If that is not enameled wire (magnet wire) then it's going to short on everything else that it's touching in there as it has no insulation.
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Thanks for fast reply!
Yes, they are enameled wires. Besides, I put the electrical tapes to prevent short. ( I removed them just for clear pictures). I also used multimeter to test any bridge wires, so I am quite sure I can rule out the shorts.
Any idea what should I do next?
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The stick going up all the way like that I'd make sure the LSY line is not shorted to ground and then make sure that the 1.8v is at the LSY POT. Either of those issues could cause it to be up all the way. Same for the LSX, if it's shorted to ground it's going to go full left, or if it has no 1.8v it's going to go full left.
After that, could be shorted caps on the LSX/LSY lines, but for both to fail same time would be rare, or there could be an issue with the MCU, but again for 2 lines to fail same time is odd, so I'd be suspect of the POTs not getting power first.
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I see. Thanks for the advise. I will check these possible and give a update tomorrow! :)
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Hello ! After checking LSY, I think there is a short. There is only 400ohms between LSY and ground, but i think the normal value should be around 3k ohms right (there are 3k ohms bwtween LSX and gound )?
you mentioned about the possibility of shorted caps on the LSX or LSY lines. Could it be the problem on LSY line ? how can i test it ?
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400ohms isn't close to a short but it's too low. Remove the stick, or at least the Y POT and check the LSY line again. If it's still 400ohms, suspect C22, D15, an issue on the trace somewhere or the MCU.
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thanks ! after revome D15, the drift is gone ! BUT....there is another problem appears...
Now VW bottom is not working, and RB is keep pressing.
I think there might be someting wrong on the power board because during testing the MCU board, there are different problems showed on the tester : first, Y bottom kept pressing. After clear the power board, Y bottom funtion normally. Instead, logo bottom kept pressing.
After several teardown and assemble two boards, Logo bottom is normal now but VW is not responding anymore. So i tried the same way: dissembled and assembled two board....but now not only VW is not working, RB is keep pressing.
Any idea what is going on :(
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Check all of the solder joints on the 4 connectors between the two boards. I've seen those entire connectors get pulled off the board before, so could be some cold joints there making buttons not work or a cracked trace. Also seen the MCU need to be reflowed on that version board to fix some issues.
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I checked those 4 connectors and resoldered them to avoid any cold joints, but the problem is the same.
But this time i think there might be some signs of chip/power issue.
First, the malfunction bottoms seems random. Sometime VW is not working, sometime RB is keep pressing. Now the down of D-pad is not working. Sometime these bottoms work again.
Second, there were a time the logo bottom light up, but my computer didn't recognize it. I tried to use xbox accessory app to see what happened. When i plugged in, there is a split of second app recognizing the controller, then losing the controller. After trying several pluging and unpluging, restart the computer, now it recognizes the controller again.
I think these two symptoms are related and indicate that some components or chips on the board are bad.
Maybe you're right, MCU need to be reflowed !
I am still working on it.
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Hi I have a problem with my elite controller the the Bluetooth search button doesn't work how can I fix it, and those shortcuts you use can I what's shortness of and thx in advance
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Hello everyone. I've read all entries for availiable controller revisions but still no luck or solution with my problem. RDC, thx for all the hard work. It's a very usefull info you got here. I'd like to ask some help to bring back to life 1698. At the begininng it was in a "always blinking" state with USB and with AA. After some manipulations i've managed to get power board and MCU to work but there are no signs of life in both analogs and both triggers and it is still blinking with AA. B button, R3 and L3 are working correctly. After inspection in microscope i found out that U8 was cracked. I've got a couple of 1537 donor boards, so i resolder U8 and still no luck. RDC, could you give me any directions? Thx in advance
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Reflow U1 on the bottom board.
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Reflow U1 on the bottom board.
Thx for the tip, but from the look of it i messed it all up. Tried to reflow - no success. Controller just showing me now a very dim light without regonition via PC. Tried to reball - same thing. Everything else looks intact. Im thinking to give this one another last try and let it go. Five days it's really too much for this thing.
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Hi, want to know if anyone know what the value of the C25 capacitor just below the right stick??
I accidently knock it off when i replacing the right stick and the capacitor went missing after that.
i tried using some random same size capacitor but the stick default position went slightly below the center.
(https://i.ibb.co/vhhgGWW/c25.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vhhgGWW)
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10nF
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10nF
thanks for the reply. :victory:
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Welcome.