Acidmods
Console Modding------ ( Here you can talk about your favorite Consoles ) => Xbox One => Xbox One controllers/Xbox One Rapid fire Controllers => Topic started by: RDC on November 11, 2020, 06:43:31 AM
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Here we go, again..
The design on this version isn't much different than the 1708 so far, I haven't dug into it yet though. Will update TP spots and yadda yadda yadda when I get the time to poke around with all of that.
1914 BUTTON/POWER BOARD TOP
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XBX/1914%20TBT.jpg)
1914 BUTTON/POWER BOARD BOTTOM
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XBX/1914%20TBB.jpg)
1914 MCU BOARD TOP
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XBX/1914%20BBT.jpg)
1914 MCU BOARD BOTTOM
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XBX/1914%20BBB.jpg)
1914 SOC BOARD TOP
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XBX/1914/1914_SOC_TOP.jpg)
1914 SOC BOARD BOTTOM
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XBX/1914/1914_SOC_BOTTOM.jpg)
J3/J5 Connector Pinout
1 - 3.6v
2 - GU (thru D27) Only Guide will work if J3/J5 pin 2 is used for new/alternate Guide button and the controller will not turn on. Use TP43 for a proper duplicate Guide button.
3 - 3v/B+
4 - 3.3v
5 - SCL
6 - LED Control
7 - SDA
8 - D+
9 - ~RESET
10 - D-
11 -
12 - VBUS
13 -
14 - GND
TEST POINTS on BUTTON/POWER Board (some)
TP13 - 5v USB
TP14 - DR
TP15 - DL
TP16 - DU
TP18 - SY
TP19 - LB
TP20 - RB
TP21 - A
TP22 - X
TP23 - Y
TP24 - MN
TP25 - VW
TP26 - U4p16
TP27 - CC1 (thru R55*) CC2 (thru R56*) *not installed
TP28 - LED Control
TP30 - SDA (U4)
TP31 - SCL (U4)
TP34 - 3v/B+
TP35 - 3.3v
TP36 - 3.6v (Rumble V+)
TP37 - 3.6v
TP38 - 5vA USB (after Q13)
TP39 - SH (Share)
TP40 - LED (Anode, after R5)
TP41 - LED (Cathode)
TP42 - LED Control (at Base/Gate of Q3)
TP43 - GU
TP44 - DD
TEST POINTS on MCU Board (some)
FT1 - GND
FT2 - GND
TP5 - VBUS
TP7 - 3.6v (Rumble V+)
TP9 - 3.3v
TP21 - GND
TP22 - GND
TP24 - GND
TP26 - GND
TP27 - LT MOTOR+
TP28 - HEAVY MOTOR+
TP29 - RT MOTOR+
TP30 - LIGHT MOTOR+
TP31 - SDA2
TP32 - SCL2
TP33 - SDA
TP34 - SCL
TP35 - ~RESET
TP36 - AN+ Enable
TP41 - B (thru R29, 100ohm)
TP42 - LSC (thru R16, 33ohm)
TP43 - RSC (thru R21, 33ohm)
TP49 - TRG+ 3.2v, 125Hz, 17% Duty (Hall Sensor VCC)
TP50 - TRG+
TP54 - MIC
TP63 - LSY
TP64 - LSX
TP65 - RSY
TP67 - RT
TP68 - LT
TP103 - AN+
TP104, TP105, TP106 & TP107 - HEAVY MOTOR & LT MOTOR CONTROL
TP108, TP109, TP110 & TP111 - LIGHT MOTOR & RT MOTOR CONTROL
TP112 - RSX
My Schematic* of the Button/Power Board - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1%201914%20TOP%20BOARD.pdf
My Schematic* of the MCU Board - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1_1914_BOTTOM_BOARD_SOME_VALUES.pdf
My Schematic* of the SOC Board - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1_1914_SOC_SOME_VALUES.pdf
SOC Board Designators TOP - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XBX/1914/1914_SOC_TOP_DESIGNATORS.jpg
BOTTOM - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XBX/1914/1914_SOC_BOTTOM_DESIGNATORS.jpg
SOC Board Pinout - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XBX/1914_SOC.txt
* Information will be updated when/if I get them scoped and/or figured out. NOTE: The MCU Board values are not currently in the schematic. The thing seems to be pretty similar to the 1708 and most of those values should match up.
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mediatek now in microsoft gamepads :laughing:
btw very clean board, more complex power line, wifi 5+2,4 ghz both for backward compatibility. dpad clicks but its same membrane type. one design problem to actually fix - analog joy pushbutton rotated to top(forward) side for less pressure and wearing on dualsense but not here.
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Hey RDC, can I please ask u to double check the test point for left trigger (LT)? U have it as TP 104 on the mcu board. I just did button duplication on a 1914 board set and everything works great except LT. I just get nothing from it on the accessory test screen.
Solder looks good and I double checked a bunch of other things. Just hoped it's something I am missing. Ty in advance.
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It's the TP spot under where TP104 is marked. Which is probably really TP68, given that RT is TP67, so that will be changed. Use the spot to the left of TP68 for LT.
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Cool, ty. I kinda thought it might be like that cause the test points are kinda wonky in that area. And the numbering seemed weird for LT.
Resoldering after dinner and I will confirm it works. Thanks for the fast response.
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Yep, that's the one. Can confirm TP68. Thank you.
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Also, a weird question about a possible test point or solder spot on the 1914 where I could run a line to power a guide button duplication led?
Background info: this for my new 1914 arcade controller and I am considering an idea to finish off the controller by using functional artwork, in a way. I am going to use the gutted shell of the x/s controller to incorporate my usb c extension and expansion port extension cables back into the empty shell, then mounted on the exterior of the arcade controller. Also, I would love to finally incorporate a Xbox guide led duplication into this shell. So, when I power on the arcade controller, the xbox controller shell on the outside would have a functional guide button light. This could either be just a solid light, indicating controller is just on/off. Or, depending on complexity, a true guide button led duplication with flashing indicators and all (sync flash and such).
Thanks for any ideas. I know u haven't dug into this board set as much, but since it's pretty much like the 1708, I thought you might have some ideas.
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Use TP41 on the Button/Power Board for the Cathode side of your new LED. Anode side of the LED will go to the correct value Resistor for your new LED, then to TP37.
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Thanks! Doesn't sound too bad. Would really finish off the controller to replicate the guide led.
So, just to make sure I understand, from the anode side of new led I will add a resistor inline of the same value as the new led before going from the resistor to tp37?
Lastly, I don't know much about what led to use. Any suggestions/links for a simple led I can clear epoxy into an empty guide button shell? Or, I do have a couple old controller board sets on hand. 360 set and my test 1708 set. I could maybe scavenge from that?
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The Resistor you install will need to be rated for whatever current the new LED needs.
Just about any LED will work, as long as it can be driven by 3.6v or less, as the TP37 is a 3.6v source.
If the LED is rated at 3.3v and 10mA, then the Resistor would be around 30ohm in value.
If you don't know the LED ratings, then always start with a higher value Resistor and work your way down until it lights up and looks decent, not blinding. Preferable to have a couple of the same type of LED so if you wind up going too low and frying it you can go back.
https://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/ledcalc.php
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I just removed the guide led from the old 1708 board. Do you have an id on that led? Don't see any markings under 10x.
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No idear, just use an 80 ~ 100ohm for that one.
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Thank you for all the info, think I can take it from there. Last thing, will this flash like the guide or just be on/off with the controller powered on/off?
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It will do exactly what the onboard LED does.
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Perfect!! I could use the 1708 board led, but decided LEDs are cheap and I have some 3mm round LEDs on the way. I can try some different colors this way too. Blue is catching my eye right now and would mean a 20 ohm resistor thanks to that calculator link u sent. I can do the math, but it's nice to just plug it all in. Thanks.
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Guide button led duplication works great!! Thank you for the info. Test pic below. New duplicate blue led kinda hard to see, but its glowing in the solder vice.
Arcade box arrives tomorrow and I am going to put it all together over the weekend.
(https://i.postimg.cc/rRXQkw22/IMG-20210219-163635724.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rRXQkw22)
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Thank you very much.
I just got my hands into one of these, but a previous repair attempt got its right stick pads destroyed. hopefully with this I can reconstruct this PCB.
Is the potentiometer value still 10k ohm?
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Yes.
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I have a question.
When I test voltages on sticks I get 1.7 at every positive side.
Is it supposed to be a pwm? I don't have a scope, and I'm trying to get new power lines and new LSX and LSY for this particular series controller, and I can't figure out where to get power for these.
thanks in advance fellas.
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The AN+ (Analog Voltage) is 1.8v for the XB1 controllers. It is not PWM, there is a 1.8v Linear Regulator (U8) that makes the AN+ from the 3.3v rail for the Sticks.
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The AN+ (Analog Voltage) is 1.8v for the XB1 controllers. It is not PWM, there is a 1.8v Linear Regulator (U8) that makes the AN+ from the 3.3v rail for the Sticks.
I see! thank you so much. I got the idea that it was 3.3 I think from another controller or something.
maybe joycon pro I don't remember. As I can see these controllers are easier to mess up everything with a bad soldering technique.
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Hey guys, I did a hard remap on DL and DR on the 1914 board and now its acting pretty sporadic. I've had similar problems before, specifically duplicating the d pad buttons on older models. The controller will sometimes act ok for a few minutes but then starts triggering two or even three inputs at a time. Its pretty inconsistent on what buttons it will signal. I have a feeling its the U4 chip but is there anyway to test it before I attempt to reflow it?
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Undo whatever you did in there first and see how it acts.
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my friend controller series is dead because droping around 1meter high.. i open it, seems solder is broken..
is easy to fix??
i'll attach picture later
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Hi. I need your help.
During the right analog stick replacement, I knocked off C23. Following the trace it goes to the expansion port. Controller is working fine. Can you tell me the value of the capacitor and can I take it from previous models? like the 1537/1708 controllers.
(https://i.postimg.cc/3JBDfwTX/1914-BBT-mod.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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That trace is the RSY line, it just runs under the expansion port. C23 is just a decoupling cap on that line, you'll never really notice it missing. It's 10nF, 0201 size, anything 4v or more will work if you want to replace it.
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Hello. I'm trying to repair a botched left stick repair.
Looking at the top of the board it looks like c24 is missing and pad damaged around the middle pin hole which is LSX I think.
Any help would be much appreciated :)
Thanks
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Hello RDC would you happen to know what the device U1 is on the power board. Its the small 6 pin package. The markings are AXMM 131 from what I can make out. Ive had a scout online for the device but cant track it down. Thanks for all your great information.
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@ atarisoul - Bottom side of the board, jumper wire from the middle lead of that POT to TP64.
@ DarkKnight55 - U1 is an MP1476LGTF
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@ atarisoul - Bottom side of the board, jumper wire from the middle lead of that POT to TP64.
Thanks @RDC i have got the left thumbstick working....THANKS
However, I cannot get the L3 button to work. I have tested continuity and the 2 pins near the gnd board edge are OK, when I test the inner pins with the gnd pins there's no connection, when button pressed I get a connection. Thats what I expected as the button completes the circuit.
I have tried to find a test point but I can't work it out
Thanks in advance
:)
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You're looking for LSC, Left Stick Click.
Top side of the board, make sure R16 is there, 33ohm. After that it goes to TP42 (bottom side) and after that it's off to the MCU board where it may or may not go thru another Resistor before getting to the actual chip.
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You're looking for LSC, Left Stick Click.
Top side of the board, make sure R16 is there, 33ohm. After that it goes to TP42 (bottom side) and after that it's off to the MCU board where it may or may not go thru another Resistor before getting to the actual chip.
THANKS, I have the 1914 fully working now!!!!!!!! Stupidly I thought the C in LSC was centre. I had a feeling it was R16 from your excellent schematic for the 1708 but as I thought it was to centre the stick I got confused.
Thank you ever so much for your help and the documentation
Merry Christmas :)
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someone tried to install rapid fire on xbox one series card 1914 controller
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Hello again.
During left analog stick replacement I lost C20 and maybe other caps. Unfortunately I can't find high-res pcb scans, I'm not 100% sure if C5, C15 and C14 are present, I think only C20 is missing. Controller works perfectly fine in wireless mode, but has lost usb detection.
BTW what values are these caps?
(https://i.postimg.cc/T3DDTgbt/1914-BBT-missingcap.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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C5, C14 and C15 are all not installed.
C20 missing would cause no noticeable issues. It's most likely something between 1nF to 1000nF if you want to put something in there, really isn't going to matter at all as it's just one of several decoupling caps on the 1.8v rail for the Analog sticks.
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Guys, I have a question.. I brought a faulty with an attempt to repair it. The problem is that Left Stick always point up when power on even after i remove the left stick from the PCB, it still point up when i test with gamepad tester. Anyway to test what the cause of it?
BTW, i also accidently remove the cap on C37, will it affect anything?
Thanks in advance.
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With the stick removed the Analog line could do any number of things.
LSY stuck up sounds like the LSY line is either grounded somewhere or there is no 1.8v on the LSY POT.
C37 missing isn't going to cause any real issues.
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Hi RDC, thanks for the prompt reply. another question from me is let's say that the line is not grounded, can i just fly a wire from AN+ to LSY POT?
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LSY is up/down, I got those backwards for some reason, posts edited. All 4 POTs share the same AN+, so you can just jumper from the LSX AN+ lead to the to the LSY AN+ lead.
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Hi everyone,
I want to add a paddle for button B, I am not very good of understanding electronics. This is what I understand, I should solder a button between TP41 and GND. Am I right?
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TP41 on the Button/Power board, no.
TP41 on the MCU board, yes.
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Can you help me to find thes two trace??
(https://postimg.cc/mtrhsGHQ)
https://postimg.cc/mtrhsGHQ (https://postimg.cc/mtrhsGHQ)
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Top one is ground. Bottom one is the 1.8v for the POT there. You can just jumper wire both of those right to the other POT there.
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hello, has anyone had success in installing rapid fire xbox one series controller? model 1914 RT is not accurate, any ideas?
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With the stick removed the Analog line could do any number of things.
LSY stuck up sounds like the LSY line is either grounded somewhere or there is no 1.8v on the LSY POT.
C37 missing isn't going to cause any real issues.
Hi, i just recently got back to this controller.. I trace the voltage at LSY POT, i notice that it shows 2.0V instead of 1.8V, is that normal or something wrong with it?
P.S: the LSY Pot still pointing up left (11 o'clock) after i solder back the Analogue stick.
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I have no idea how you are measuring that voltage. If you are measuring the 2 outside leads of the POT then it should be 1.8v exactly, check all 4 of them. If that still measures 2v then the battery in you meter is what I would double check first.
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Can anyone please tell me what the top left component is outlined in red? (top left of the 4 black components marked with "20" near the antenna connectors) I had a brand new 1914 Series X controller sitting as a spare for 8 months and I finally opened it up today to put a new housing on and start using it and immediately noticed the component in question was snapped off on the left side. The leg of the component itself is broken so I couldn't solder it back in place.
Does anyone have any idea what this part is? And if I should be worried about it? The controller works fine. All buttons and rumble motors work. It's just bugging me because I'm not sure if I should be worried about it or not. Really don't want to replace it if I don't have to because I hate soldering such tiny components. Thanks guys.
(https://i.redd.it/vvrrwlj7st191.jpg)
The one I outlined is the one that was broken off. The leg on the left was snapped off completely from the component itself. Brand new controller out of the box that came bundled with the series X console. Can't return it because it's been in my closet in the box for 8 months.
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It's one of the 4 steering diodes there for the USB data lines. It will work without it, but if you're going to be plugging up the USB cable to it then it would be best to replace it. No idea what the exact specs are, best to get a replacement from another controller board.
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It's one of the 4 steering diodes there for the USB data lines. It will work without it, but if you're going to be plugging up the USB cable to it then it would be best to replace it. No idea what the exact specs are, best to get a replacement from another controller board.
Oh that's great to hear! So I can still charge it with USB right? It seems to charge when I try. I never use it in wired mode personally so it's not an issue if it's just to do with DATA and not power. Thanks so much for response btw this has been bugging me all day!
edit: The cable I charge with is a power only cable too. It has no data connectivity so I should be fine charging it without replacing that shifting diode right? Really not down to do that job as those antenna connectors get in the way and they're super easy to rip off the board when trying to disconnect them. If it's not going to harm the controller further then I'm content just to leave it as it is. I'm not great with electronics but I'm assuming that if the cable I use to charge doesn't even have data lines then there's not going to be any chance of further damaging it?
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If the USB cable is just 5v and ground then it should be fine.
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Hello, I'm begginer on this. I have a problem with DL sw9 it doesn't work, can it be solved or should I buy a new controller? :help:
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Hello guys,
i have a strange problem..... when i plug any antenna cable in connector of black circle then T2(in red circle) is getting shorted and hot so it stops working....
Any idea how can i fix it? I suspect ARM....
Controller is working with antenna's connector unplugged J2 but it cant be connected wirelessly....
(https://i.imgur.com/RvllGDC.jpg)
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That trace is the RSY line, it just runs under the expansion port. C23 is just a decoupling cap on that line, you'll never really notice it missing. It's 10nF, 0201 size, anything 4v or more will work if you want to replace it.
Guys, I have a question.. I brought a faulty with an attempt to repair it. The problem is that Left Stick always point up when power on even after i remove the left stick from the PCB, it still point up when i test with gamepad tester. Anyway to test what the cause of it?
BTW, i also accidently remove the cap on C37, will it affect anything?
Thanks in advance.
With the stick removed the Analog line could do any number of things.
LSY stuck up sounds like the LSY line is either grounded somewhere or there is no 1.8v on the LSY POT.
C37 missing isn't going to cause any real issues.
C5, C14 and C15 are all not installed.
C20 missing would cause no noticeable issues. It's most likely something between 1nF to 1000nF if you want to put something in there, really isn't going to matter at all as it's just one of several decoupling caps on the 1.8v rail for the Analog sticks.
I have the same problem. After replacing the right stick and connecting the controller to the XBOX, the cursor constantly moves in the direction of four o'clock (to the right and slightly below). If you hold down the crosspiece button, the movement stops, but it does not move anywhere. If remove the stick, the problem remains. Checking with a multimeter, I found that the resistor R16 is broken and the capacitor C24 is out of order.
Also, I do not find (or do not see even under a microscope) C 15, C5, capacitors. But reading the messages, I realized that they were not.
C10, C20 capacitors may also not work, they behave strangely when measured with a multimeter. But judging by the message, they should not cause problems.
Attempts to return the stick to the board did not help - the issue is still present.
I'm going to buy a used xbox one (2 or 3 revisions) as a donor of resistors and capacitors for my controller.
Tell me, what else can I check or do to restore the operation of my controller?
Thanks.
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With the stick removed the Analog lines are floating and will do all kinds of weird things. Look for broken traces and pads where the stick gets soldered. If any of those are intermittent or open you'll have issues.
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With the stick removed the Analog lines are floating and will do all kinds of weird things. Look for broken traces and pads where the stick gets soldered. If any of those are intermittent or open you'll have issues.
Will do today after work. Thanks
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I have no vibration from any of the rumbles, what could be causing this?
Thanks!
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Since that question is rife with no real details... Controller not turned on. Whatever you're connecting it to doesn't support it. Rumble is disabled in the dashboard. Issue with the 3.5v rail.
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True, details would help. It powers on normal, triggers work. Whether wired or wireless, I get no rumble feedback. All the inputs work as well. I'm connecting it directly to a Series S console
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Provided Rumble is enabled then, the 3.5v rail is what I'd look at since all that it really does is power the Rumble motors. Check the voltage on TP7 of the bottom of the bottom board and see what is there.
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Thank you, I will try that and get back with results.
EDIT : Forgive me if I'm wrong here, I'm still very new to board diagnosis and voltages. I put my tester in resistance mode, and it was reading around 590. Any volts setting would read 0.
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Don't recall saying to check for Resistance. ;) Resistance checks should always be done with no power applied to the board, the meter could be damaged doing that.
Take just the top board alone, unplug it from the bottom board, and plug up the USB cable to it and plug that into the PC for power. It should power up for you to check the voltages on the bottom side of it. Check TP35 and TP37 and see what they are.
EDIT: Shortcut for all of that, if the LED on the controller works, then the 3.5v is good. Been awhile since I've dinked with that 1914 version. That 3.5v does the Rumble motors as well as power the LED, so if the LED is working then you have the 3.5v rail.
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The LED does have power as it should
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I'd start poking around the top board at Q10, Q11, R37, D2 and just in that general area to see if anything is missing or looks damaged first. That 3.5v comes from U6, and the LED works so you know U6 is good, but then it has to get thru Q10 to power the Rumble motors, and Q11 turns on Q10 and so forth and so on, so I'm kind of suspecting something in that bit of the circuit to be damaged, might not look it, but somethgin there seems off or there would have been 3.5v at TP7 on the bottom board.
My 1914 power board here was stripped of all the components awhile ago or I could get you some values for comparison. If you have another 1914 controller there using it for checks would help narrow down where the issue is.
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I will check it out, thank you for the help.
EDIT: I believe I have it narrowed down to a fault somewhere on the MCU board. I changed power boards with another 1914 and the problem still existed. If it helps, I had just done a stick replacement on the left analog. However I can't remember if the no rumble problem was existing before the change.
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You'd have to booger the board up pretty good to kill all 4 Rumble motors while changing the left stick, or wound up with some solder splash all over something that is causing a short now that should be easy to see. Since another power board gives the same results, it could be one of the rumble motor controllers has shorted and is keeping that 3.5v from being down there on TP7, and if that's the case then one of them should be warm enough to the touch to tell. Top side of the MCU board, U4 and U5 are those chips.
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I'll take a look to see if some solder went somewhere it shouldn't have. I did replace the heavy motor to no difference, ill try the others.
EDIT: So I changed both U4 and U5 chips and the problem still exists. I've verified rumble is turned on via Accessories app. I did solder the positive lines to the various TP outlined in your schematic, and I was able to get power to them even if only a little. I'm at a loss here on this one. I appreciate the help, wish I wasn't such a novice at board level diagnosis.
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Hi RDC!
Can you please help me with my controller? my controller wont turn on.
I connected the controller with usb cable it did turn on but for a while. I put on the batteries and it did turn on but it went off. when I conect the usb the controller makes a sound like if its receiving power making. Another thing I notice is that the cable j5 that goes up to j2 and the cable it is a bit cut.
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jacobporter87 & vagana - Take just the top Button/Power board alone and plug it up with the USB cable and check the various TP spots for voltages, specifically TP35, TP36, TP37 and TP38.
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Apologies I'm just getting back to this, I was just going to sell it off. I decided to come back to it. Here are my readings for the test points:
TP35 - 2v
TP36 - 3v
TP37 - 2.2v
TP38 - 2 3v
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Something weird going on there as TP38 should be 5v, which comes right from the USB. I'd remove D25 and check TP38 again, see if the 5v is there or if it's still low.
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Will do, I'll let you know.
EDIT: I'm getting 3.9v once taking off D25
Just playing around, I put the positive wire on the left trigger to TP107 and it is working nonstop. I'm not sure if there is a way I can jump the wires to test points or not, but maybe that could help figure something out.
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No idea why you're putting anything on TP107, that bottom board isn't supposed to even be plugged up for these tests. If you're going to go sticking this and that to random TP spots, don't be shocked when you find the one that turns the controller off, permanently.
The 1914 version board I had here was stripped long ago, so I don't have one for doing any real comparison checks or measurements. Check TP13 on the top board, that for sure should be 5v. They have this version changed up a bit from how the 1708 works. That TP38 is after Q13, but find it odd there would be that much drop across that thing.
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I sometimes I just go playing around after looking at schematics on things that aren't a big deal to me. But I for sure want to try and figure this out, so I'll avoid that.
TP13 was 3.9v
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That's real odd. What are you plugging this USB cable into?
Check the voltage on each side of R1, just at the USB-C connector.
Is anything on the top board getting warm?
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I have it plugged into a desk USB dock right now. Plugged directly into the Xbox, it topped out at 4.6v
Averaging 5v on both sides of R1
I'm not feeling anything getting warm either.
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OK, 5v on both sides of R1 and 3.9v at TP13 is contradicting, because the bottom side of R1 goes to TP13. If that's actually happening, then I'd suspect a bad via or trace from R1 to TP13 somewhere.
Could also be that R1 is loose and putting the meter on it is making a proper connection. That's one that will get you just about every time where testing the thing it all checks out good but nothing still works right.
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Well unfortunately, I just had the component right next to R1 short out, so now USB connection isn't working. If you feel the rumble issue is on the power board, I'll progress with getting a new board. It still works by battery so it's not a terribly big deal.
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To which side of R1? C40 or CR1? In either case, just remove it and keep on troubleshooting.
Any Rumble issue is going to be on the Bottom MCU board. All the Top Power board does there is send the Motors the 3.6v they need, but the MCU turns all of those Motors on/off via the U4 and U5 chips.
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To the direct left if looking straight at it between R1 and Z4
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C40, lose it if it's shorted.
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I did, it completely ripped one pad off from the short/spark
EDIT: I just wanted to say thanks for trying to help me figure this out. Unfortunately this morning it just wouldn't power on despite battery working last night. I decided to move on from it. I did learn a few things though.
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Hello, hoping someone can help. I have a series controller that powers up and syncs fine but will only stay connected to the console when it's right next to it. Any ideas on where to check for a fault? I know the MPU controls the power fir battery's and USB use but does it also control the Microsoft wireless and Bluetooth as well? Bit stumped with this controller. Thanks
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@ jacobporter87 - No worries, welcome. Added a rough schematic of that top board, in case you want mess with it anymore or run across another one. It's nowhere near complete, but a little better than going at one again with nothing.
@ Eyeball_40 - Was anything done to the controller? Anything?
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@RDC nothing at all.
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Interesting. You can try the 'easy' things, new batteries, see if there is a firmware update for the controller, power cycle the XB1, but if other controllers are not having the same issue the last one is kind of a moot point. The wireless is all done in the MCU, so unless the antenna cables have come unplugged or those antenna circuits have been damaged in some way, it usually comes down to the MCU having an issue.
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That?s what I was afraid of. I opened it today to check inside and there is nothing with the antennas. Another faulty mcu on a series s controller. These chips are made of cardboard it seems. Damn proprietary chips. Such a shame that they made the chip handle so much on the controller, it brings repairability right down.
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Greetings! Can you please tell what is u2 chip? It has mark pM
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U2 on the bottom board there is a 74AUP1G125GW. As of now, there is one of those on every version of the bottom board, except for the 1537, and on the 1697 it's marked HM5, but it's still a 74AUP1G125.
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Thanks a lot!
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Welcome.
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Unfortunately, still have shorts to ground on marked pins. Tried to take off those capacitors, but still shorts. Is it means dead cpu? Could reball help?
(https://i.postimg.cc/NyRsnWrN/IMG-20220927-160032.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NyRsnWrN)
(https://i.postimg.cc/c6RxTyN6/IMG-20220927-160411.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/c6RxTyN6)
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All of those caps are on the 3.3v rail, and there are a lot of those and other things on the 3.3v rail. You need to inject 3.3v on the rail in there and see what is getting hot. Thermal camera works best for that, but a Q-tip and some rubbing alcohol will also find what is getting warm in there first.
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i like to repair the controllers but im stumped with a couple i have had of this model for some time now that i have bought broken. botched repairs of the stick have been done,ie burnt pads on the potentiometr holes, ive replaced with new, ran jumpers to the correct tp links as well as the other points on the stiick (cross checking with a known working one in continuity mode) all sees fine, but the stick still pionts diagnal? I would really appriciate any help to get these working again. Many thanks in advanve for any advice
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If the stick is stuck in the up/left position, then it has no 1.8v getting to it or both axis are shorted to ground.
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Thank you for the reply. Is there any way I can rectify that?
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First verify that's the issue. Then just jumper wire the 1.8v to one of the 'dead' POTs and see how many start working again.
The 1.8v is AN+, TP103 on the bottom board. But TP103 might not have the 1.8v on it, depending on what might be broken and where. That 1.8v comes from U8p1 on the top side of the bottom board, and it gets it's power from the 3.3v rail, and it gets told to turn on by the MCU. If any of the stick axis are working then you at least know that U8 regulator is working, could just be that 1.8v might not be getting to all of the POTs.
It's not the exact same, but it's laid out a lot like the 1708 version board, and some of that schematic is very similar.
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Wonderful , I?ll give that a whirl . Thank you again for your time
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Hello guys,
i have a strange problem..... when i plug any antenna cable in connector of black circle then T2(in red circle) is getting shorted and hot so it stops working....
Any idea how can i fix it? I suspect ARM....
Controller is working with antenna's connector unplugged J2 but it cant be connected wirelessly....
(https://i.imgur.com/RvllGDC.jpg)
Good morning Last night I was looking at a controller with a similar problem but found that the short is in the line on the button board. this afternoon I will take a good look at the board and I will tell you if I could solve it when I connect that cable to the MCU board the control stops working
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I have changed that component from a donor board and now it works correctly
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When I was replacing the y axis potentiometer on the left stick I think I must of ripped the solder pads out of all three holes is using jumper wires possible and if so where do they go? the middle pin goes to the tp63 right?
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Correct, TP63 is LSY. The other 2 are just power and ground and can be jumpered over from the LSX POT.
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awesome thank you i thought it would be way more complicated than that:)
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the J2 cable is damaged on a controller i have bought. what is this for please and will the controller still work correctly if this is not attached? can i just solder another one on there from a donor board if need be, or is this not going to be possible? thank you for your help
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It's the coax cable for one of the antennas. If you just use the thing wired then you can leave it, but if you use it wireless then it needs to be replaced. You can use a cable/connector from another board, provided it's long enough.
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thank you once again
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Welcome.
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Hey admin!
I have an issue with gamepad (1914). When I plug in the gamepad, it immediately starts switching quickly between, for example, game shortcuts. However, in the gamepad tester at this moment, everything is fine with the left stick, with no movements. BUT at the same time, two triggers are pressed constantly.
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Triggers get their power from U9, top side of the bottom board, make sure it's still there and no components around it are knocked off or no board damage there.
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As I can see, everything is OK. There is a missing C322. Does it affect the operation of the Hall sensor?
Also, there is something orange under Q9. Could it be related?
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No idea what orange thing you are seeing or where.
C322 is on the LSY line, not going to make the Triggers act that way and not going to hurt anything else being gone.
Plug it up with a USB cable and check the voltage on pins 1 and 2 of both Hall sensors. Put the black lead on some ground spot or use pin 3 for ground.
3
[ ]
1 2
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1 pin: 0 V
2 pin: ~0.06 V
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Something is up with U9, or you have a bad U10 or U11, or there is a bad capacitor in that circuit somewhere. C32, C33, C35 and C37 are all on the Trigger VDD line, and any of them being shorted could cause that. Around U9, C3 being shorted could cause it, and also check the values for R38 (0ohm) and R40 (10k) to make sure nothig has gone out of spec or open there.
You would need a scope to see if the MCU is turning U9 on/off properly, and even getting at that thing without some kind of test board adapter or soldering up a pile of wires isn't possible anyway.
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Capacitors are not shorted.
R38: 0.8 Ohm
R40: 99.8 Ohm (200k on the multimeter, not sure what number should be)
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Also:
R40: 0.45 V
R38: 0.48 V (I'm not 100% sure)
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Check the voltage on TP113, if it's around 0.4v then the MCU is probably telling U9 to turn on, and then I'd suspect U9 is bad if there are no other issues.
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I'm sorry, but I do not know how I should do this. I'm not good at measurements in such cases.
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So you just made a DC measurement on R38 and R40, and can't do the same on TP113? Controller connected with USB cable. Meter on DC voltage, black lead on ground, red lead on TP113.
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Thank you, I thought it was a different way to measure.
It's about 0.45V.
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You can remove U10 and U11 and see if the output of U9 comes back up (TP49 or TP50, both are on same trace and are the same as checking the voltage pin 1 of the Hall) and if it does come back up then U10 or U11 is bad, if it does not then U9 is most likely bad.
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If I measured correctly, then V = 0.03.
Oh, I think, it's 0V on R38.
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Having 0.45v on TP113 and 0v on R38 is contradictory as they are on the same trace.
If you are measuring across R38, that's going to measure 0v, and would be the same as measuring the voltage with both test leads connected together.
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Hello, sorry for question;
i want the B key in the back of the controller, like the scuf controller, is this possible?
If yes,Is there anyone who can tell me where to solder?
i have 2 of this button and 2 wire
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/m3EAAOSwqeZancGk/s-l500.jpg)
Hope you have a great day,
regards
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Yes. Use TP41 on the bottom board and ground.
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Yes. Use TP41 on the bottom board and ground.
Thank you so much for the reply,
If you want and can, can you make a simple pattern? (I'm a rookie).
I have 2 wires and the buttons.
I hope you have happy holidays.
Thank you again for replying to me.
Greetings
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Greetings friends! Does anyone have a circuit of the lower board?
U8 is a 3.3v 1.8 converter? There is no voltage of 1.8V.
What is U9 responsible for?
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U8 is the 1.8v Regulator for the AN+ (Analog voltage) that the Sticks use.
U9 is a 3.2v Regulator for the Trigger Hall sensors. That one is turned on/off 125 times every second, so it's not going to measure like your typical regulator and you need a scope to see what it's doing.
Those regulators are about the same on almost every version of the controller so far. The 1708 schematic has the U8 and U9 circuits shown in there, and overall the 1914 isn't a huge change from the 1708.
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Thank you, friend.
Is U8 U9 possible to buy? Or to look for a donor?
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Can I solder any chip separately so that it outputs 1.8V and will work?
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U8 and U9 part numbers are in the 1708 Bottom Board schematic.
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I have the same problem as Vagan. When powered by batteries, the power button blinks once and goes out. After several attempts, the controller can turn on and connect via Bluetooth, but after a few seconds it turns off. When powered by usb, it flashes 9 times and goes out.
I found a capacitor in a short circuit on the 1.8 V power supply. The 1.8V power supply itself was gone. Can the controller behave this way due to the lack of 1.8 V?
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Dear All,
Want to ask if any of you guys know what the value of the things i circle in red?
(https://i.ibb.co/yP5RYy6/1914-BBB.jpg) (https://ibb.co/T2RTb84)
Thanks in advance.
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@ Sangaley - Shorting the 1.8v rail here caused the controller to not even power up.
@ alexzai89 - The component on the left there is in one of the antenna filters. That would be a pain to measure and the best option would be to get another broken controller to use for a parts donor. The component on the right is just a decoupling cap on the 3.3v rail, and it'll be fine with it missing or you could put anything from 1nf to 1uF there.
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Hello. If I connect the Bluetooth antenna wire to J2 the controller is dead. Unplugged it works fine and bluetooth connects but only if very close to my tablet. J1 is OK. I've looked at the schematics and close up photo's of the area around J2 and I can't see any problems with the components or board.
Is this a fault with an SMD around J2?
Thanks in advance.
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RFF2 and/or T2 on the SOC board are suspect. You'll have to get replacements from a donor board. Parts from a 1708 board can be used also.
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RFF2 and/or T2 on the SOC board are suspect. You'll have to get replacements from a donor board. Parts from a 1708 board can be used also.
Thanks for your help. I don't have a donor board. Any ideas what these components are so i can buy them?
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They're RF transformers or Baluns. Finding a broken controller for parts would be far easier than trying to track down exactly what the specs of those things are.
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Anyone have any tips for removing the joysticks on these ones. Seems I'm having to go back to 1698 days where I jist cut the jkystick and remlved each pin. On 1708 I could remove it whole
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The axis lines, AN+ and 2 of the stick button solder joints shouldn't be giving you much grief, but the 8 ground connections are where you just need to use more heat. The 1708 doesn't have plated thru holes like the 1914 does, so all of that heat you try to put into solder joint gets 'pulled' away by the large ground planes of the board. Use some flux also, or heat up the joints and flow a bit of fresh solder on then before trying to desolder them. You can also do some preheating to the board, a hair dryer, careful use of a heat gun or an actual PCB preheater and warm the whole thing up a little bit so then it doesn't pull away the heat as fast when you put the iron back to it. You don't need the whole board screaming hot where parts start falling off or things start burning, just warm it up good and then do the desoldering.
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while trying to replace analogue, I accidentally broke the D15 diode. Now the controller no longer turns on. How much is the size? Could I replace it with a non-SMD and get the same result?
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D15 isn't really needed, look for a broken trace/pad around D15 as it's probably open now and not letting the VBUS voltage get from the R7/R8 divider to R24. Or there is leftover D15 bits that are shorting now and causing the issue, in which case clean up the leftovers and try.
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I don't see anything short on D15, but it seems to me that they skipped C20, C22, C24 and maybe C322...
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https://ibb.co/17sCHFj
https://ibb.co/YhyDcRN
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Clean up around those caps, C20 looks shorted to me, and if it is then the AN+ line would be shorted and the controller wouldn't turn on in that case.
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And how to replace C20?
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I'd use a hot air rework station. The cap is not needed to see of the controller will work or not. Just remove the left over bits of them all there and test first, then you can install a new one if you want, 1uF or so will be fine.
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I don?t have hot air rework station? can I use a no SMD capacitor? 1uF, how may V? If don?t work, I must by another board. Damn?.
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Just use the soldering iron and clean up those areas where the caps were destroyed. Then test the controller.
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i tried with my soldering iron but i can't solder smd components, i have to try to take a ceramic capacitor 1 uF max 5V and try to solder it again, as a last resort....
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There are no SMT components to solder, just clean up the board there and then test it. It does not need that capacitor in there to work.
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Nothing, unfortunately it does not turn on anymore ... C20, C22, C24 and C322 are skipped... I guess I'll have to take the logic board to replace. I had just changed the two analog for the drift problem.... the Xbox symbol does not turn on, even if I connect it to the computer...
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Hello, these PCBs are much more difficult to de solder components than the ones from the 1537 and 1708 models. Do you have any hints on how to do it without damaging the PCB, please? Thank you!
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13 posts above yours.
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Hi,
I have a question for me is U10 and U11 marked with 303 and not with 304, is it a Hall effect transistor or FDV303N Mosfet
Kind regards
Christopher
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U10/U11 are Hall Sensors.
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I can't find a hall sensor with the designation 303 on the internet. Unfortunately I can't insert a picture, I'm still blocked?
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I've only seen the 303 Halls on the 1537 boards, ages ago now. The A1304 should work as a replacement.
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So my mainboard "SH 1 94V-0 E248779 0522001" looks like the 1914 but has 303 instead of 304 otherwise it is identical
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Ran across a new issue one of of these controllers the led seems to be dead anyone know what led I need to buy to replace it with? Also tips on how to install it I used hot air to remove it and figured maybe heating the board from the backside would be my best bet for installing it
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You can use just about about any 0805 sized LED you want in there. Preferably one rated for 3.3v to 3.6v, which most White or Blue LEDs will be, but ones with a lower voltage can be used if you change the value of R5 along with it. Install it the same way you removed it. By the time you get it soldered by heating the back of the board you'll have nuked something back there. Alternately you can clean the solder pads off and then solder one side down first with the iron, then do the other side.
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Thank you for the advice
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This is incredibly helpful, but can anyone provide me with the values for R3, R7, R24, and C21 of the MCU board top? I got a little careless removing the right analog stick.
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All of those Resistor values are in the MCU Board schematic in the first post.
C21 is on the 1.8v rail for decoupling, you can toss just about anything in there from 100nF to 1uF, or leave it off.
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So my issue turns out to be that component Q3 seems to not be working. I have 3.5 volts going into one side of the LED and like a little over a volt on the other but when measuring the right side to ground the light will come on remove my leads and light goes off. What is Q3 so I can replace it or can I bypass it with a jumper to ground
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Take a 1k Resistor and go from TP40 to TP42 (just to the left of R10) with it and see if the LED comes on first. If it does come on, then Q3 is good and the issue could be one of several things, if it doesn't come on then Q3 is probably bad, but that would surprise me.
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So the 1k resistor did fix the issue.
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Not a fix, that's just a test. The actual issue is still there. The trace from Q3 to R10 could be open, R10 could be bad, the trace from R10 to J3p6 could be open, bad solder joint at J3. Then if all of that is good, the issue is on the bottom board somewhere. J5p6 bad solder joint, then that goes to the SOC board pin 14, then on the SOC board it goes to a Resistor then to the MCU.
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Hello guys,
i have a strange problem..... when i plug any antenna cable in connector of black circle then T2(in red circle) is getting shorted and hot so it stops working....
Any idea how can i fix it? I suspect ARM....
Controller is working with antenna's connector unplugged J2 but it cant be connected wirelessly....
(https://i.imgur.com/RvllGDC.jpg)
There is a T2 component on the SOC board. What is it and can it be bought?
When I replace it from another board, the controller works because the primary original T2 is shorted.
Edit:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004421310753.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.228f1802Kh5VxD
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjcxsGNl_r9AhVw57sIHXe8CIIQFnoECBAQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.minicircuits.com%2Fpdfs%2FNCS2-33%2B.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3-imux6ADmWhBK-w-_-tzB
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It's an RF Transformer, and no idea on the specs. A donor board is the only place to get one that will work, as long as it's not bad as well.
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It's an RF Transformer, and no idea on the specs. A donor board is the only place to get one that will work, as long as it's not bad as well.
I think I found it, looks like it's him..
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004421310753.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.228f1802Kh5VxD
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjcxsGNl_r9AhVw57sIHXe8CIIQFnoECBAQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.minicircuits.com%2Fpdfs%2FNCS2-33%2B.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3-imux6ADmWhBK-w-_-tzB
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Here's a good 20+ more, all with different specs, that also 'look' like it. Have to have more to go on than just the package to get the proper replacement.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/balun/849?s=N4IgjCBcpgbFoDGUBmBDANgZwKYBoQB7KAbRACZYB2cmkAXQIAcAXKEAZRYCcBLAOwDmIAL4FYATgQhkkdNnxFSIACwAGCQGYtDZm0iceA4SLEgArNKZQwza5HLnTQA
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Here's a good 20+ more, all with different specs, that also 'look' like it. Have to have more to go on than just the package to get the proper replacement.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/balun/849?s=N4IgjCBcpgbFoDGUBmBDANgZwKYBoQB7KAbRACZYB2cmkAXQIAcAXKEAZRYCcBLAOwDmIAL4FYATgQhkkdNnxFSIACwAGCQGYtDZm0iceA4SLEgArNKZQwza5HLnTQA
I thought you were the experts here to give advice :hifive:
My logic is simple: :tup:
Almost all electrical engineering is produced in China.
Microsoft outsources production of its controls to China.
Aliexpress is Chinese.
I found only two sellers on Aliexpress that sell the part that is in the Microsoft controller.
Why wouldn't that part fit in the controller, when Aliexpress is Chinese and there are also spare parts for products that China makes for Microsoft... :winker: :rofl:
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Not a fix, that's just a test. The actual issue is still there. The trace from Q3 to R10 could be open, R10 could be bad, the trace from R10 to J3p6 could be open, bad solder joint at J3. Then if all of that is good, the issue is on the bottom board somewhere. J5p6 bad solder joint, then that goes to the SOC board pin 14, then on the SOC board it goes to a Resistor then to the MCU.
Seems the trace from r10 to Q3 must've been broken I soldered a jumper from r10 to the top leg of q3 more because the TP there lifted as a result of the capacitor test and then tested again and now the LED comes on
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Already gave you advice on where to get the correct part from.
Nowhere at all in either of your links does it say those are for the XB1 controller, so your logic ladder is already missing a few rungs there. Everything else is speculation and guessing based on where you found it, what it looks like and what you are assuming.
I also never said it wouldn't fit, fact is there are over 20 parts that will 'fit' there, and plenty more that aren't even a Transformer or Balun that will also 'fit' there, doesn't mean they are the right part based on what it looks like and where you found it.
@ Qball - Good deal.
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Already gave you advice on where to get the correct part from.
Nowhere at all in either of your links does it say those are for the XB1 controller, so your logic ladder is already missing a few rungs there. Everything else is speculation and guessing based on where you found it, what it looks like and what you are assuming.
I also never said it wouldn't fit, fact is there are over 20 parts that will 'fit' there, and plenty more that aren't even a Transformer or Balun that will also 'fit' there, doesn't mean they are the right part based on what it looks like and where you found it.
@ Qball - Good deal.
In any case, it's not too much of a financial value for me not to try. So I ordered it, I'm going to try it and then give feedback. :cool: :winker:
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All of those Resistor values are in the MCU Board schematic in the first post.
Sorry if I'm blind, but this is all I found. The schematic in the link doesn't have the values for those.
My Schematic* of the MCU Board - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1_1914_BOTTOM_BOARD_NOVALUES.pdf
...
* Information will be updated when/if I get them scoped and/or figured out. NOTE: The MCU Board values are not currently in the schematic. The thing seems to be pretty similar to the 1708 and most of those values should match up.
C21 is on the 1.8v rail for decoupling, you can toss just about anything in there from 100nF to 1uF, or leave it off.
Thanks!
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Not blind, that was on me, I thought this one here was up to date but I must have added those in and didn't update this one. They're in there now.
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Not blind, that was on me, I thought this one here was up to date but I must have added those in and didn't update this one. They're in there now.
Sweet! Thank you much!
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Hi all,
I keep destroying PCB pads then desoldering anagloue sticks. Is there any diagrams out there that show what wires I would need to run from each point to restore the broken connections? I have had a look at the PCB scans but still cant figure it out.
Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Dan
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Hey guys, so I?ve come across a few 1914?s now where it basically tells me that ? the controller needs an update? the moment I plug it in/power it on. So naturally I go ahead and initiate the update and it fails and basically renders the joysticks dead other than the click function. I know the controllers didn?t have drift or any other issue when doing the update so I know that?s not what it?s screwing it up. Anyone else come across this issue/fix?
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Hi,I hope you are doing great. i have a problem with my controller. it thinks that RT and LT is always active. i have tried removing hall sensor nothing changed. i removed R42 and R39 but they stayed active,then i connect the R39 and R42 by small wire thought resistore must be the problem but they are stay active. how can i cut this signal? is it something wrong with main chip?
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I replaced a joystick on my 1914, the resistance of the joystick was 10k but the new stick is WAY too sensitive, is there any calibration software for the controller?
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Hi everyone, I have an Xbox series s controller that has a battery pack that charges directly. I plugged in my USB C cable into the controller directly instead of the battery pack and left it for a while. When I finally picked it back up to use it wouldn't turn on. No sign of power at all. And the controller doesn't even vibrate when plugged anymore. The battery pack still works in other controllers and I've also tried AA batteries. What could possibly be the problem and is it something I can fix quickly? :help:
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Hi everyone, I have an Xbox series s controller that has a battery pack that charges directly. I plugged in my USB C cable into the controller directly instead of the battery pack and left it for a while. When I finally picked it back up to use it wouldn't turn on. No sign of power at all. And the controller doesn't even vibrate when plugged anymore. The battery pack still works in other controllers and I've also tried AA batteries. What could possibly be the problem and is it something I can fix quickly? :help:
It's been weeks, can anyone at all tell me anything that may have caused this? A friend sold it to me not long ago and I've been really down since it broke.
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It's already broken, so you can't technically break it anymore, but you could have been taking it apart and poking around in there learning something new versus being down about it. ;)
It's going to have to be taken apart and first looked at for any signs of damage, then things tested with a DMM to see what is working and what isn't.
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Hi, this is my first time asking so sorry if it was asked before.
I have a 1914 controller with blown components.
Can anyone help me with the the following capacitors values?
C11
C23
C24
C26
C36
C54
Below are photos of the location of the elements we are asking about.
Thanks in advance
(https://i.postimg.cc/zbs76dB5/XBOX-1914.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zbs76dB5)
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Hi folks,
I bought a 1914 from which a stupid preowner disassembled the resistors R10, R13 and the transistor Q3. Maybe a LED-Mod.
Anyone who can help me with the values of these parts?
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C11 - 47pF
C23 - 10nF
C24 - 10nF
C26 - 100pF
C36 - 470nF
C54 - 10uF
R10 - 1.5k
R13 - 100k
Q3 - Some N channel FET or NPN Transistor.
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@RDC: :tup: :tup:
I assume the resistors are some 0603 or 0402. I will order both sizes.
NPN is a bit difficult cause there types with very different values.
Maybe anyone has time to look on printed numbers on the transistor...
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They are 0402 size.
Put a BSS138 in there, SOT23 package. Just about anything 'generic' would work as all it's doing is turning the LED ground on/off.
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In any case, it's not too much of a financial value for me not to try. So I ordered it, I'm going to try it and then give feedback. :cool: :winker:
I bought this, but it turned out to be larger in size
-
C11 - 47pF
C23 - 10nF
C24 - 10nF
C26 - 100pF
C36 - 470nF
C54 - 10uF
Thank you so much for You help.
Can you tell me the value of C30 and C31?
Are C20, C21, C30, C31 the same value?
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All of those Caps are on the 1.8v rail and could really be just about any value. On the 1708, which this 1914 was kind of designed from, the first 3 Caps are 1uF and the last is 100nF, but any combination of those values would be fine for those.
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Thank you very much.
And tell me the value of C27?
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Use the values in the 1708 schematic.
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ok. Thanks for the advice.
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Can anyone help me with the the following capacitors values?
C32
C33
C35
C37
All of those Caps are on the TRG+ rail.
I blow up C37 :(
Thanks in advance
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Use the values in the 1708 schematic.
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Hoping someone can help me. I was working on replacing the right analog stick and the J2 connector just popped right off the board.
I don't have any donor boards, is there somewhere I can buy the connector?
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I haven't seen a board that had J2 on there. J3 is the only one they seem to have populated, and both are just extra ground connections between the 2 boards, so it will still work with one or the other, or even neither of those there.
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I haven't seen a board that had J2 on there. J3 is the only one they seem to have populated, and both are just extra ground connections between the 2 boards, so it will still work with one or the other, or even neither of those there.
Sorry, I should been more specific. I'm referring to the antenna connector on top of the SOC board.
(https://1drv.ms/i/s!AkLt9FOVhjHqlGO1AS9Vh0RXOPDv?e=kksEN0)
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Kind of hard for that thing to just 'pop' off the board if all you were doing was the Right stick, unless you were blasting the thing with far too much hot air? Is it still connected to the other end in the antenna cable and just came off when that was unplugged? If it was blown off using hot air, I'd give the thing a good once and twice over as something else might be missing or out of place.
No idea what an exact replacement part number would be, as there are tons of that type of Coaxial RF connector that are surface mount, and they all have slightly different sizes.
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It was still connected to the other end of the cable, it came right off when I disconnected the cable. It didn't come out of the cable connector in one piece, unfortunately. Guess I might need to get my hands on a donor unit.
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Best guess, and what I'd get to try out first without digging thru a pile more datasheets - https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/2334884-1/10279181
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Hi RDC and all,
Have a weird issue with a 1914 controller - the guide button works to power the controller on (by pressing it down) but the guide function by pressing the same button does not work at all. All other buttons and functions work perfectly. Controller is in like new condition, only a few weeks old, perfect physical condition.
I took the button/power board out and connected it to a different controller?s MCU board - the guide button then works perfectly.
With this, I think the issue is with the suspect controller?s MCU board but not sure where to start. Any troubleshoot/repair advice is appreciated!
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Check pad 12 of the SOC board, where the SOC board is soldered to the bottom board, and make sure it has continuity to J5p2. If no continuity then repair that open. If it has continuity, then the issue is on the SOC board and would have to be a bad trace, solder joint on the MCU or a bad MCU.
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hello, I am trying to repair the 1914 board which has both triggers pressed everything else works perfect. Transistors U10 and U11 output 3.3V based on the measurement I made. I also took the measurement from the transistors to TP67 and TP68 having 0.82V and while taking that measurement I pressed the trigger and the voltage dropped to Zero, while doing that I could notice a trigger reaction on the gamepad tester, the same thing happened on both triggers. Any suggestions what could it be?
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They are Hall Effect Sensors, not Transistors. They couldn't output 3.3v if they wanted to as their Output is at most half of their 3.3v Input, and that 3.3v is switched on/off versus on constantly. So with a DMM, that measurement is only going to come out to around 1.2v on pin 1.
The 0.82v to 0v makes no sense either, as that kind of voltage there means they should technically be working. The Output, pin 2 of them, will measure around 0.17v not pulled, to 0.02v fully pulled.
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thank you so much. what would be the correct temperature to reflow the U9 controller and estimated time
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You're way over thinking that. It's a X2SON-4 package Regulator, not a 1932 FPBGA. Toss a nozzle on the hot air setup, flux it up and have at it until it reflows.
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Hi! I've found that the C301 on the MCU board is shorted. Does anyone know this capacitor's value?
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It's just for decoupling on the 3.3v rail, anything from 1nF to 1uF would work there.
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Thank you RDC my controller is working again! :victory:
Just another doubt not related to this one. How did you desolder the SOC board from the MCU board?
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Hot air.
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Hi, what kind of diodes are those?
(https://i.postimg.cc/tTbKqFPz/Screenshot-20230903-151855.png)
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Two are the missing kind, other two are the almost knocked off kind.
Toss 4 new Schottky type in there and she'll be good to go.
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Hello guys, first time posting here, came across this forum due to faulty controller, I have the 1914 updated with the latest firmware due to the fact that it connects and disconnects from Bluetooth, but after that, it started having issues with D pad, LB, RB, A X and Y.
You would start the controller, test its buttons and they would work fine for about two minutes, it is the same behavior if is connected via cable with no batteries to my computer or to an android phone with Bluetooth.
I had the controller opened and and re solder the socket that connects the Power Board with the MCU Board, making sure there are no shorts among lines and the controller would just behave the same, same buttons work fine for 2 to 5 minutes at much, they would have some lag when pressed and then stop working completely.
So I opened the controller again to check for shorted caps or other components around the U4 component in the Power Board, U4 in the MCU board and shorted caps in the SOC board but found almost nothing.
The only three things that got my attention was the CAP 9 in the bottom of the SOC Board that was not shorted but neither could be measured with ground so I checked the schematics but I was unable to measure it against R8, C47 and C48 at the other side of the SOC Board, second the WiFi cables and their ports would sound short with the multimeter even when the Power and MCU boards were separated, and last, the white component (I believe it is called RF transformer, but the one with 4 soldered points, two at each side) in the SOC board would sound shorted with the multimiter.
So after this description of my problem I would follow your suggestions before the ultimate one which is to buy a new one but I dont like making more garbage so I believe it is worth the try.
Thanks you in advance and hope you all do great.
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C9 doesn't connect to ground, and has nothing to do with any of those other components, so no idea what you were trying to test there.
You're continuity checking an RF antenna, that basically is a short with a bit of trace sticking out for the antenna, so there's no issue there.
You're also continuity checking a transformer and that's going to also measure 'shorted', but it's not.
Given that it works, then doesn't after a bit, I'd reflow the MCU and retest. You could poke around during current measurements and looking over the board with a thermal camera while it worked and failed, but something minute is probably warming up and causing an open somewhere, and those BGA connections can do that.
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Check pad 12 of the SOC board, where the SOC board is soldered to the bottom board, and make sure it has continuity to J5p2. If no continuity then repair that open. If it has continuity, then the issue is on the SOC board and would have to be a bad trace, solder joint on the MCU or a bad MCU.
Hi RDC - thanks for the advice but sadly I did not have success with this, continuity was fine between pad 12 and J5p2. Ended up scrapping the board. Now on a different controller, also in close-to-new condition, I have exactly the same issue!
Is there anything else that can be done to troubleshoot? It is bizarre that the guide button still works for powering on the controller but not for the guide function. If it is a problem with the SOC MCU, is there any reasonable way to fix or replace that?
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The Guide button turns the controller on by doing things on the top board, the Guide button 'press' is done on the bottom board.
That GU trace is on an internal layer of the SOC board and goes straight to the MCU, with only 1 via in that line.
You could take a needle and jumper wire it to ground, then power up the controller and poke K1 of the BGA to see what happens.
Looking at the board how it is in the first page, the numbering of the BGA is A1 thru T1. The letters I, O, Q and S are not used in BGA pin naming, X and Z are also not used but that chip isn't that big, so that edge goes..
A1 B1 C1 D1 E1 F1 G1 H1 J1 K1 L1 M1 N1 P1 R1 T1
K1 should be connected to pad 12 of the SOC board. If you can't get Guide to activate by grounding out K1, then that solder connection is bad or the MCU has an issue.
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Thanks a lot! I now understand what to do, except for the BGA numbering - can you link the reference diagram that is showing the A1 thru T1? I checked the first page but having trouble finding such.
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You can't see any of the BGA connections looking top down, I just used that as the reference. The only ones you can kind of get at are the ones along the outside edges of the chip, and they can only be seen when holding the board almost flat level, 90 degrees from the images of it.
Pinout depends on the chip orientation, with pin A1 in the case of BGA, being in the top left corner, but the chip is on the board 90 degrees Counter Clockwise, so A1 is in the bottom left corner, again looking at it how it is in the images on here. K1 is circled in red.
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XBX/1914_BGA.jpg)
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Hello if i solder usb wire to D- D+ 5V and GND pads will it work on PC? I am asking because usb type C has more than four connections.
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It will work as long as they are soldered correctly, but there is no real benefit in doing that.
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Hello! firstly, thanks for all the info in this post it's a treasure trove. secondly, I have fried 2 capacitors on the MCU board backside - they're labled c322 and c22 -would you happen to know their capacitance so I can replace? thanks in advance!
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You can run it with them missing, not going to hurt anything. If you want to put something there, just toss a 10nF and a 1nF on there. The other Analog lines have a single 10nF, not sure why they went and doubled that one up.
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fantastic lmao I'll be honest i was hoping you would say that. This has been my first electronics soldering experience and i'm tired of it, my son wants his controller and I want to be done working on it! Thanks again! :tup:
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Hello, I have a motherboard that apparently got wet. I replaced c36 and c46 which were sulfated but still malfunctioning. Only the triggers, analogs and the power button work. the rest do not respond to any button
https://postimg.cc/dk1rDkC5
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Interesting contacts, haven't seen that layout before.
The LSC, RSC and B buttons have nothing to do with the rest of the buttons, which are all on the IO Expander (minus the Guide button), so those should work.
Test the Reset line from U4p24 to J3p9 (goes thru R4) that trace, Resistor or a via can go open and cause issues.
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No. Everything is correct in that area.
Are the replaced capacitors of any particular value? c36 and c46
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C36 - 47pF to 51pF
C46 - 100pF
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perfect there it worked very well I changed the c46 but I only got 500 pf from a PS4 011 board
thank you very much for your help as always you are an idol
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Hello, i have an issue with a controller, the controller dpad up is pressed when its turn on some minutes and stay pressed all the time, im looking the power board and it dont have D6, in the schematics says that is a diode, but i cant find that component for replace
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It says DNI in the schematic for D6. DNI = Do Not Install, it was never there from the factory.
Either there is some corrosion under the DU contacts, a short on the DU line between the contacts and U4, or U4 has gone bad.
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Hello, can you tell me parameters SMD?
(https://i.postimg.cc/sXgsfBHd/22-01-2024-140147.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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No idea, and no way to accurately measure those here. Since it's part of the filtering for the wireless, I'd get them from a donor board so the values are correct.
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Hello everybody!
I would like to ask for help! I was changing the right analog stick on the xbox series s/x controller and I accidentally removed capacitor C25 (next to C21) and lost it. Could anyone tell me the value of the C25 so I can replace it?
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C25 is 10nF
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I fried my antennae on a 1914 can I some how bypass the antenna connect and run 2 lines? VS coax?
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Tried to fit Hall Effect sticks however I managed to take Capacitor 37 off by accident, It works grand for a minute then the stick drifts hard to the left until I power cycle the controller. Any idea what value capacitor C37 is?
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C37 is 1uF and it's just a decoupling Cap for the voltage rail of the Trigger Hall sensors, so it's not causing any issue with the sticks. Everything would work fine with it removed, and only the Triggers would be affected if it were shorted. That stick either has some issue, or they aren't great at running from 1.8v
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I have changed that component from a donor board and now it works correctly
Same issue with my controller, it does not work when antenna cable is connected
tried to remove all components connected to ground (close to antenna and usb connector) on bottom board but still it does not work
what did you replaced at the end to make it work again?