Acidmods
Console Modding------ ( Here you can talk about your favorite Consoles ) => PS3 => Topic started by: GBlaster on October 31, 2008, 12:08:28 PM
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Well here is it, enjoy everyone. Thank you to everyone here on acidmods that has supported me for the past few weeks.
http://rapidshare.com/files/159415095/Rapid_Fire.pdf (http://rapidshare.com/files/159415095/Rapid_Fire.pdf)
There's the link, Enjoy!
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thx will try
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yayyy :drunk: getin it now will try soon. yay partyyyy!!! :#1: :drunk: :drunk: :drunk:
EDIT: hey i was reading the guide just a quick question, do you plan on selling kits with all the parts or just buy the parts from online places. and can all the parts be purchased of ebay ?
nice tutorial :drunk:
if you don't mind can you put up links to where you got the parts. thanks.
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that is a BEAUTIFUL tutorial.
well done man
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Nice tutorial man.. If you want I can host it for you as not to consume you rapid share bandwidth..
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Nice post cant wait to get the kit
GBlaster could you tell us what part number of the chip is
Cheers
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good job blaster i will get parts tomarrow since me and my friends made a party and i didnt get time to go buy them .
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can you give me the links for the parts . thanks :drunk:
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Well try ebay well i dont need link's since i could get all the stuff i need at a local electronique store like timers everything or you could try radioshack
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my maplins store has them so im ok :tup:
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dam ebay only has the 10 and 56 k resistors. no store around me, and i don't think the radioshack has it im going to go check tom. if they don't have it would anybody mind to sell me some ?
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Here are the Radioshack catalog numbers:
TLC 555 Timer: 276-1718
Electrolytic Capacitor 1.0uF: 272-996
Polyester Film Capacitor .01uF: 272-1065
10k Resistor: 271-1126
56K Resistor: No Part Number (That's why I recommended the 100 pack assortment 271-306)
Momentary Switch: 275-1571 (The best one I've used is 275-644)
NPN Transistor: 276-1617 (15 pack - recommended)
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thanks man, your a great help :drunk:
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awesome ! i'm ordering the parts right now:)
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lol radio shack suck i went to the store the stupid person on the computer like umm sorry we don't have it...... so i just ordered them of the website lolll i didn't know radio shack uses pay pal lol. the only part that was out of stock was the NPN Transistor, so i bought it of ebay i looked at the part number from radioshack and compared it can you tell me if this would work... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=150249088736&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=005 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=150249088736&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=005)
thanks.
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im going to go out tomorrow (party tonight woot!) and go to radio shack, pick the parts up and try it on some preprinted/drilled PCB, ill post pics of my finished production
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lol you should make sure they have the parts, if not just buy online.
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lol you should make sure they have the parts, if not just buy online.
yeah im going to do like said in the tutorial, and but the 100 pack. erg i hate digging for resistors though :faint:
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if they don't have the NPN transistors at the store there not on the website to, it says there currently sold out, ebay has them i put a link in my previous post but, make sure its the rite one.
EDIT: hey GBlaster i was looking around i saw consolecustoms guide, i just want to make sure but there the same solderp points for your RF rite ? it hsows the same points for where to solder for the old style pcb, and the new style, and ds3 pcb.
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lol radio shack suck i went to the store the stupid person on the computer like umm sorry we don't have it...... so i just ordered them of the website lolll i didn't know radio shack uses pay pal lol. the only part that was out of stock was the NPN Transistor, so i bought it of ebay i looked at the part number from radioshack and compared it can you tell me if this would work... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=150249088736&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=005 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=150249088736&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=005)
thanks.
I checked it out. It seems all right, the only thing is the ones I use are switching transistors and not amplifier transistors. To be honest I'm not the greatest with circuitry, so I'm not 100% sure if there is much of a difference.
EDIT: hey GBlaster i was looking around i saw consolecustoms guide, i just want to make sure but there the same solderp points for your RF rite ? it hsows the same points for where to solder for the old style pcb, and the new style, and ds3 pcb.
Yeah it's based off the same points, I just used my own pictures for it instead of console customs.
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i'll just wait until i get them, if they don't work i'll have to wait until they become available on radio shack.
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Please let me know how it goes! I'm always up for that kind of stuff.
I'm hoping to make the adjustable version today but I'm not sure if I'll release it formally like I released this one.
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adjustable version of the tutorial ? its already good you could use some clearer pics of the pcb and the 2 solder points, all the other soldering looks easy.
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How much do parts cost?
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12$ download the guide tell you part numbers and all.
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adjustable version of the tutorial ? its already good you could use some clearer pics of the pcb and the 2 solder points, all the other soldering looks easy.
I'll release a video of it but I won't be releasing the specs for it. It'll be adjustable between 26.7 shots/second to 5.6 shots/second. I would have really loved some clearer pictures but its just the way they came out and I was scrambling for time.
Besides for the adjustable rapid fire, I am currently working on a new mod that I think you guys will enjoy, but it's only in the idea and rapid prototyping phase right now.
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K, i downloaded it from QJ...
Looks a but messy, I want to try to have it as clean as possible.
wonder if i should sell these as a service on ebay..
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you want me to upload some clearer pics ? i can do both for the first style pcb, and the second style pcb/ ds3 controllers.
here i took pics of the old style and the new/ds3 one and labeled the solder points. here:::
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you want me to upload some clearer pics ? i can do both for the first style pcb, and the second style pcb/ ds3 controllers.
You can take some clearer pictures. Just send them to me trough Private message and I'll have a look.
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i just pm'ed you the pics.
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Lol im geting pices soon blaster
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nice, how much did you pay for your parts ? i had to pay 20$ cuz of shipping lol
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nice, how much did you pay for your parts ? i had to pay 20$ cuz of shipping lol
I had to pay about $12 because I went directly from the store.
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Thanks for this GBlaster, It cost me $20 because, I wasn't sure which cap I needed so I bought the variety pack. (I should have bought them non-polorized) but I made a polorized work. (just had to get the direction right.) The mod works like a charm
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Thanks for this GBlaster, It cost me $20 because, I wasn't sure which cap I needed so I bought the variety pack. (I should have bought them non-polorized) but I made a polorized work. (just had to get the direction right.) The mod works like a charm
I've been experimenting with different capacitors, they all seem to work so far. Its great to hear its working! Enjoy!
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hey i have a quick ?, i disassembled my PS2 controller and i took out the rumble thing, i was thinking what if you can add the rumble to the rapid fire, so every time you press the button it shakes. can it work ?
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Yeah it could work if you have a proper power source. Basically you would just have an on command rumble.
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i'm going to try it, just have to wait for my parts to come.
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Here is the release of my Adjustable Rapid Fire, It won't be released formally but you can see a video of it here.
I'm currently working on a never before seen project. Hopefully you guys will see that in a few weeks. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zseAtOBx-4[/url)
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-TIP: Oh, yeah I couldn't find a 56ohm resistor so I used a 47ohm soldered in series with 10ohm to accomplish the closest (over 56ohm) I could get to.
Only thing that's happened, when I first did this it worked flawlessly, but one of my power wires broke at a joint, and I went in and fixed it but now for some reason I can't figure out, (only when pressing the rapid fire trigger) my controller also moves down and to the right in small movements. (I also tested it on the xmb to make sure it wasn't the guns recoil) is the down/right for the analog close to the TP for this mod? (Oh well I guess, at least it's rapid)
UPDATE:]My possible fix for Copper pcb (old sixaxis controller)
I went into do the PS button LED mod, so I rewired all but my pcb point 1 & 2 (new wire every were except pcb points 1 & 2 and pcb components.)
I found a definitely marked improvement when using rapidfire.
When it does track down and right it is very little, just noticeable and doesn't move in xmb at all. (Often times turning the controller off/on fixes it)
I think it may have been shorting out via the very edge of the PCB where a wire had insulation damage. Just to be sure I changed how I wired the the switch to avoid wire insulation damage.
Next I'll try some electrical tape under the pcb point wires just to make sure there's not a short there.
Here is my makeshift wiring diagram for any one who wants to give this a shot.
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi57.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fg229%2FMrBlueJK%2Fps32.jpg&hash=bcea8d6dadad793d3fc95f5fd9323c6b2e07593d)
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The cost can be cut by almost 50% if you buy from real suppliers. But its hard finding the exact to what radioshack has..
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So do you actually have a new button you have to use? IF so where is it located?
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i got all my parts today but yesterday i got hit by a car while i was walking, but i'm going to try it now and see if it works. :drunk:
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So do you actually have a new button you have to use? IF so where is it located?
Yes, If you'd looked over the pdf you'd have seen that the momentary switch is the "new button" You can put it where ever you can fit it. Mine is on the right below the right analog stick. (on the hand grip)
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BUMP.
Just finished mine :D
No screw ups or anything like last time.
It looks PERFECT.
:D
BTW.
GBlaster, I posted your TUT on PSPISO.
BUT DON'T WORRY.
You have FULL CREDIT.
I just said I Uploaded it. (:
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i think the problem that DLoc has is because of the battery. i had the same problem to, when the battery was fully charged it would move by it self, but when it is on the second bar it works perfect.
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BUMP.
Just finished mine :D
No screw ups or anything like last time.
It looks PERFECT.
:D
BTW.
GBlaster, I posted your TUT on PSPISO.
BUT DON'T WORRY.
You have FULL CREDIT.
I just said I Uploaded it. (:
Great to hear that it works. Thanks for posting it up too.
I haven't been able to keep up lately but now I have the chance so I'm just gonna say that there will be another update soon on the tutorial with more pictures of the newer motherboards (2 since my last release). I mainly haven't been able to keep up because I've been working on a mod that I very very very slightly touched upon earlier but I am glad to say that it should be done soon.
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how long is it going to take to post up the new one ?
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Hey gblaster (or anyone with a decent knowledge of this mod),
I am attempting my first electronics mod ever on a DS3, and after it took me 3 hours (lol) to assemble everything --- the test point on the pcb broke off of TP26. I noticed that on my PCB TP26 is com2, which I assume stands for common2 --- my question is: Is there a way to repair this, because i cannot get solder to take on TP26 now? Also, if that is not possible, TP25 is com1 --- would it work the same if i connected to that test point instead of com2?
Heres a picture from another site that is exactly my board.
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi50.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff320%2FRDCXBG%2FPS3%2520Six-Axis%2520and%2520DS3%2Fth_NewSixAxisandDS3.jpg&hash=fe80a0fd31e971cb2d3de9a8ad7304996910c0a9) (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/NewSixAxisandDS3.jpg)
I really appreciate the thorough tutorial, and am very excited to get this mod completed. Any help is greatly appreciated!
*EDIT* - P.S. I tested the controller after i broke off TP26, and all functions of the controller work properly.
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By the TP breaking off I'm assuming you mean the solder came off of it. You may be able to get the solder to stick back on by using flux on the TP.
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By the TP breaking off I'm assuming you mean the solder came off of it. You may be able to get the solder to stick back on by using flux on the TP.
Yes, the solder came off. So the TP will function properly if i can get it to take solder with flux?
and do you know about the com1, com2 question i had?
I tried using the other "com" TP, but when I tested by touching the other lead from the timer to the TPs that control button functions, it seemed to switch them around from the list I had, and when i found the "fire" TP --- the momentary switch only allowed single shot operation. I feel like ive :censored:ed this mod up completely :#1:
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The two com points control different aspects of the controller. The com2 controls the right side of the controller (A.k.a. R1) so by connecting the R1 TP with the Com2 it sends the signal for R1.
So basically, you need to use Com2 as specified.
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The two com points control different aspects of the controller. The com2 controls the right side of the controller (A.k.a. R1) so by connecting the R1 TP with the Com2 it sends the signal for R1.
So basically, you need to use Com2 as specified.
I apologize for being such a noob to this, but if I understand correctly:
I could set up the control layout for L1 or L2 as the primary fire and use Com1 and whatever the L1/L2 tps are and it would function correctly?
Also another question, have you tested the rapid-fire on COD5? I heard they had anti-turbo code or something.
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I apologize for being such a noob to this, but if I understand correctly:
I could set up the control layout for L1 or L2 as the primary fire and use Com1 and whatever the L1/L2 tps are and it would function correctly?
Also another question, have you tested the rapid-fire on COD5? I heard they had anti-turbo code or something.
Don't Worry, your only like the 1000000th person that's been asking me questions about this. Theoretically if you connected the L1/L2 TPs to Com1 then it should rapid fire the L1/L2.
Yes I have tested it on CoD5:W@W and it works great, I use it all the time, especially when playing zombies and I need a little support with the pistol or Carbine.
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Don't Worry, your only like the 1000000th person that's been asking me questions about this. Theoretically if you connected the L1/L2 TPs to Com1 then it should rapid fire the L1/L2.
Yes I have tested it on CoD5:W@W and it works great, I use it all the time, especially when playing zombies and I need a little support with the pistol or Carbine.
Yep, I got it to work on the L2 trigger, i had to connect it to the lower right ground/power terminals for some reason tho.
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Good to hear! Weird that you had to connect it to a different power and ground though.
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Gblaster, just wanted to say thanks for this mod.
Tried it for the first time earlier today and worked out great!
Now I just have to get cod4 or another shooter :)
Also wanted to add that I played around with it in my dualshock and was able to fit it in without taking out the rumble.
Here are some pics of how I arranged the pieces and what parts I shaved from the controller.
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.comcast.net%2F%7Eseriouslysilly%2Fps3%2Frf1.jpg&hash=696c281c86dca1ba1c487f097e67cd5b75c8e9d2)
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.comcast.net%2F%7Eseriouslysilly%2Fps3%2Frf2.jpg&hash=908244dca49b6e18b1b9a7aad6923bedbd9fe811)
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.comcast.net%2F%7Eseriouslysilly%2Fps3%2Frf3.jpg&hash=4da8bced344d54455c08c578f31f923a43a07206)
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.comcast.net%2F%7Eseriouslysilly%2Fps3%2Frf4.jpg&hash=0f33fbf37528960ebf02f5ee19a010259a84b8a1)
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I've managed to get the timer to stay in with the rumble. The trouble I'm having is getting the button to fit with the rumble as the rumble is right in the spot where the button goes. Great work though looks amazing. Glad to hear its working good for you.
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yeah, i had to move the button a bit more so it would fit. i have it lined up with the first knuckle of my middle finger.
what do you think about switches like this
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.protostack.com%2Fimages%2Flarge%2FSW-TM-SPST_LRG.jpg&hash=86edfee6dfc20a0cd61f24817777ffe6b0e06d10)
should fit, but the only pain i foresee is making the hole for it. other than a narrow file, i don't know how to make a square hole in the controller.
or something like this
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.futurlec.com%2FPictures%2FTAC003.jpg&hash=7bcc782f2a4c8abdf3ee35c6c52dcc4c12d6d36f)
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Those micro-switches should fit in with the rumble. You wouldn't need a square hole. you can just hot glue the button into place. It should be able to squeeze between the rumble and the case.
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Hey guys, quick tip for what I've found installing my rapid fire. There is a small little round spacer on the back piece of the DS3 controller shell where you'd be looking to drill a hole for your button (right side). If you drill your hole JUST to the left of that small spacer, it fits PERFECTLY!!!
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Hey Gblaster!
Just have a quick problem/question.
My first install went in a dualshock (as mentioned in previous post). Everything is working well.
I just finished second install in a sixaxis controller.
when I press the button, it goes slowly.
Is there something I did wrong?
Thanks!
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Hey gblaster, I'm gonna buy the parts soon but I saw that I shouldn't add solder while I'm connecting the wire to the points. Can you explain that more? I'm only good at basic soldering but I bet I can do this because it looks easy.
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Hey Gblaster!
Just have a quick problem/question.
My first install went in a dualshock (as mentioned in previous post). Everything is working well.
I just finished second install in a sixaxis controller.
when I press the button, it goes slowly.
Is there something I did wrong?
Thanks!
You may have used the wrong resistors. The resistors control the speed of the timer.
Hey gblaster, I'm gonna buy the parts soon but I saw that I shouldn't add solder while I'm connecting the wire to the points. Can you explain that more? I'm only good at basic soldering but I bet I can do this because it looks easy.
You can add solder. But not a lot because it may get on something else. It should be fine to just heat the solder that's there and just push the wire in.
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the higher the resistor the faster it would shoot ?
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the higher the resistor the faster it would shoot ?
The higher the resistor, the slower it shoots. Try to only change R2 because the capacitors and R1 change the duty cycle significantly. If you use about 30k ohms of resistance on R2 you should be hitting a little over 20 shots per second. Right now its tuned to 11 shots per second with 56k ohms.
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You may have used the wrong resistors. The resistors control the speed of the timer.
thanks for the reply. just opened up the controller and checked. it's a 56k resistor (double and triple checked the color bands).
i was planning on making another set, but local radioshack was out of the 1.0u capacitor.
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what if i use 2 10k resistors instead of using the 30 ?
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U'd need 3 10k resistors...
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went to another radioshack and picked up the missing pieces to make another.
put them all together and replaced it with the current one.
working like a charm.
will disassemble the previous one and reconnect to see where my error was.
Thanks for the help!
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went to another radioshack and picked up the missing pieces to make another.
put them all together and replaced it with the current one.
working like a charm.
will disassemble the previous one and reconnect to see where my error was.
Thanks for the help!
No Problem. Glad to hear its working for you.
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Alright I started this mod and then when i got to the testing part it worked nicely:) :psp: but it has been pretty hard...anyway to the point I was trying to keep in there but then point 1 broke off. Now when try resoldering the wire to point 1 the solder just keeps on breaking or won't stick. :x: Anyone got advice? I have the old style sixaxis also how do i put the timer without it breaking? Is that what the hot glue is used for? Please help I wanna get this done today and I'll be online all day and I'll have a photo up soon.
Please help!!!!! :beg: :beg: :beg: :beg: :beg: :beg: :beg: :beg:
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someone help?
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Alright I started this mod and then when i got to the testing part it worked nicely:) :psp: but it has been pretty hard...anyway to the point I was trying to keep in there but then point 1 broke off. Now when try resoldering the wire to point 1 the solder just keeps on breaking or won't stick. :x: Anyone got advice? I have the old style sixaxis also how do i put the timer without it breaking? Is that what the hot glue is used for? Please help I wanna get this done today and I'll be online all day and I'll have a photo up soon.
Please help!!!!! :beg: :beg: :beg: :beg: :beg: :beg: :beg: :beg:
Sorry for not responding earlier. I check the forums only around 1-2 times a day. You can use flux to help it stick a little better. The hot glue is almost required in order to stop the timer from shaking around inside the controller especially when playing games that require shaking the controller.
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so flux to help it stick and do i hot glue the timer to the back of the controller or wherever i stick it?
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ya, flux keeps the bond strong, the glue gun keeps it form shaking all over, and causing problems and stuff like that. And a tip watch where you glue gun, or where you place the parts so the controller can close properly.
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I am a new member of the forum, (hello to everyone) I am an Italian boy, I realized your system for the rapid fire but I have a small problem.
because the rapid fire works on call of duty 4 always successfully, while on call of duty 5 runs for five seconds and then works to 1 shot per second?
hello thanks luca
sorry for the English but I use google translate
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correct me if i'm wrong (i don't have cod5), but i've heard that this mod won't work on this game.
i've read/heard that they changed it so the rapid fire won't work unless the chips has a new program.
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???? it works on COD 5, i used this same guide to make it and tested it with COD5.
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more specific:
The kit is operated cod 5 until Friday evening, the kit runs from Friday evening for a few seconds and then fired a second shot (on cod 4 works even now).
perhaps there was an update of the game that blocked the use of rapid fire?
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???? it works on COD 5, i used this same guide to make it and tested it with COD5.
that's good to hear :)
I was just going by the descriptions on fleabay touting the "new program" or "new code" to make it work for COD5.
Perhaps it is just for the 360?
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There was an update, rate of fire is locked, regardless. I have programmed chip kits and they are normal speed on COD5 now but still work on everything else. Others have confirmed it.
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try using higher resistors, since GB said the lower they are the faster they shoot. try using something a little higher than the 56k and it would probably work then. I will try it tomorrow when i get back home.
here this is what Gb said
" The higher the resistor, the slower it shoots. Try to only change R2 because the capacitors and R1 change the duty cycle significantly. If you use about 30k ohms of resistance on R2 you should be hitting a little over 20 shots per second. Right now its tuned to 11 shots per second with 56k ohms".
i'll get another controller and try it out to.
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The Rapid Fire Works on Call of Duty 5. It may not work for pre-programmed chips and xbox 360 methods because they shoot at around 20 shots per second. Since mine shoots at 11 shots per second it seems to be under the limit. They won't lock it at anything under 11 because a human can shoot that fast with a lot of effort. As for 20, it would take a professional paintball player to hit 20 balls per second making it reasonable to lock.
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i'm having a wierd problem with the rapid fire on my dualshock 3 controller. I have successfully done it to my sixaxis a while ago and worked flawlessly, now that i have tried with the dualshock it doesn't seem to always work. Sometimes it works as rapid fire perfectly, but then when i move the transistor and a few wires around it acts as if im constanly pressing O on the controller. I have an idea that it might be the transistor because my middle pin twisted and broke off, but then i soldered 30 gauge kynar wire to it and used that as the middle pin, would that be what is affecting it? Also, is this a suitable 555 timer? - http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=2710&&source=14&doy=26m1
Thanks for all help.
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can we see a pic of your wiring Nemesis?
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thanks for the solution, I managed to make it work by replacing the resistance of 56 with a 100 (with 68 and 82 were still locked)
thanks again
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will this npn transistor be alright
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/10x-BC547B-NPN-Transistor-50V-General-purpose-TO92-ROHS_W0QQitemZ270152134821QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET?hash=item270152134821&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318
and what wire is 30awg equivelant too
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The transistor looks alright. 30 awg wire would be equivalent to very very thin :-P
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Thanks would this wire be alright cause im getting resistors an some other stuff from there and want to keep the postage costs down.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/20-Metres-Equipment-Wire-7-Strand-Electronic-Electric_W0QQitemZ360098294421QQihZ023QQcategoryZ4667QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem
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That wire looks quite thick. I wouldn't recommend using it. Look at the images in the tutorial to get an idea of how thin the wire should be.
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I think that will be to hard to work with.
Ive done it before, not very great.
Here, try using this -
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Kynar-Wire-30AWG-5-metre-length-Circuit-modification_W0QQitemZ260354647004QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_3?hash=item260354647004&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1300|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318
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alright I got some questions. =\ Probably an obvious answer to this, but what is the button for? Is the button replacing the trigger button or something? Also, there is no polarity on the transistor right? So we can wire point 1 and 2 to whichever leg of the transistor that we want? Also, for the points on the controller, what are the points, actually? Like are they for R2, etc. Because Sony enjoys changing their controllers, so just for future reference, I'd like to know what the points actually do so I can search for new points in newer controllers.
Thanks, and awesome mod!
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The button rapidly presses the R1 button. It can be connected to other buttons. There are posts here on acidmods for the button layouts. The transistor legs don't matter as long as the middle goes to the timer.
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k thanks but what exactly are the points on the mobo? r1 button, com1,2,3, etc.
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Thanks for the wire link, another question lol, where in the uk can i get a .01uF polyester film capacitor.
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I've managed to get the rapid fire working on my dualshock 3, but not my PS button doesn't work. All other buttons work but not the PS button, the main chip on the board looks fine, none of the pins are soldered together or lifted, any help?
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I never had that problem but just make sure there isn't anything you missed like extra solder on the chip. Also make sure everything is put back correctly.
Did you mess up during the building process and think you fixed it completely?
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i have it disassembled, i desoldered the wires going from the chip to the board and i still have the problem.
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Thats very interesting. First time I've heard of it.
Can you send a picture of the board?
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Hi,
I've encountered something strange with a sixaxis controller. I recently installed another rapid fire chip into a sixaxis controller.
Tested it and the rapid fire works. However, it pulls to up and to the right whenever I press the button. I re-ran the wires according to the previous post regarding old copper boards, but the problem still exists.
I also have a dualshock3 controller. I swapped out the rapid fire chips to see if the problem was with the chips. The chip in the DS3 is working fine now, but the sixaxis is still having the same problem.
Are there any other suggestions to prevent it from pitching?
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UPDATE:
Got home from work and opened the controller back up again.
Replaced the wires from the + and - on the PCB as well as the wire between the switch and rapid fire circuitry.
Used a 26g wire instead of the 30g and used the suggested alternate method.
Seems to have done the trick!
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UPDATE:
Got home from work and opened the controller back up again.
Replaced the wires from the + and - on the PCB as well as the wire between the switch and rapid fire circuitry.
Used a 26g wire instead of the 30g and used the suggested alternate method.
Seems to have done the trick!
I'll make note of that...
I'm not quite sure if it was the change in wire type that might have fixed it. As far as I understand, the pitching is created by bad insulation on the wire. It should have been enough to just replace it with new 30g. The purpose of the rerouting is so there is no interference if there is bad insulation. But either way, good to hear its working for you.
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yeah, that's what i had originally thought.
I rerouted first by using 30g wire, but the pitching was still there.
it was then, that I decided to use 26g.
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Thats very interesting. First time I've heard of it.
Can you send a picture of the board?
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa209%2FNemesis_14%2FFJPG.jpg&hash=2939f78610df54836058aa5b73f5866734da077d)
Sorry it's blurred.
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(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi196.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa209%2FNemesis_14%2FFJPG.jpg&hash=2939f78610df54836058aa5b73f5866734da077d)
Sorry it's blurred.
If I were you; and I couldnt find a solution, I'd make my own button...
Cant be that hard, now can it?
Just gotta find a button that fits into the PS button position, and solder the points...
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Uh how can you be so sure that it's the physical home button? What if it was the FPC? Also it's not as easy as you think it is...
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I only have a picture of that area as that is the only place that i soldered that would have affected the buttons. The connector where the flex cable goes into at the front of the controller has not been tampered with at all.
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Yeah but ndru was saying how you should make your own button, and that's really a dumb idea...
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yeah i have a stickied topic in this section with a list of points for 1 revision of DS mobo
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Yeah but ndru was saying how you should make your own button, and that's really a dumb idea...
Well sorry for trying to help.
._.
It was just a suggestion, and it really couldnt be that hard, can it?
Correct me if Im wrong.
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Well idk... How would you make a button? Mould plastic?
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Get a momentary switch, and solder it up to the TP points of the PS button....
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ooooh like that...
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Get a momentary switch, and solder it up to the TP points of the PS button....
So one to the TP point of the PS button and the other to ground i would imagine?
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yea i think so, but if a trace is broken or something internal is dead, a new switch wont help.
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quick question just like the transistor does it matter which way the resistors are?
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nope.
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ok thx
btw i checked psp iso site that ndru98 was talking about that he posted the tut on and i think i got a virus from that site cause i got a warning saying my comp got a virus and required immidiet scan srry idk how to spell that word but any way NOBODY GO TO THAT SITE YOU MIGHT GET A VIRUS if you dont, tell me, please
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i have a switch thats smaller but idk if it'll work ...
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi224.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fdd297%2Fhellrazer21%2FP3100184.jpg&hash=c19f4cbacf95a48116153d8fe9d7a52514408f42)
heres a picture of the little swtchs next to the one ment for the mod these little ones could fit under the circle and next to the x button for quicker access the little tiny black buttons are from a broken zen
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ok thx
btw i checked psp iso site that ndru98 was talking about that he posted the tut on and i think i got a virus from that site cause i got a warning saying my comp got a virus and required immidiet scan srry idk how to spell that word but any way NOBODY GO TO THAT SITE YOU MIGHT GET A VIRUS if you dont, tell me, please
u got pwned.. it was probably a fake popup that says u have a virus, u click it, then u really have a virus...
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thanks, been looking for something that simple, very clean too.
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u got pwned.. it was probably a fake popup that says u have a virus, u click it, then u really have a virus...
i didn't click it i pressed ctrl-alt delete and closed everything out i didn't want to risk clicking the X or the scan button so i guess i'm safe for now right?
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we are getting way off topic, but do a system scan for "antivirus 2009" or something like it that should not be there. that is one of the biggest threats out there right now. millions of people affected. it tells you you have 30 trogens and 5 worms or whatever. if left unchecked, it can eventually shut down the system "windows has shut down due to the ditection of a virus to prevent further damage. I have delt with this 4 times now. you can get it out of the registry and boot files, and it will go away and you wont see anymore popups or anything, but its there hiding, recording key strokes. dont use a credit card from that pc untill you reformat.
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So one to the TP point of the PS button and the other to ground i would imagine?
Don't connect it too ground. Find the COM point that works with the PS button, and connect it to the point of the PS Button. If you connect it to ground you will get very odd results.
And for everyone else who's talking about viruses. Please try to put it on another board.
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lol srry i brought that virus thing up any way i just wanted to say something about the rapid fire mod for R2 (resistor 2) i used a 27k cause the other ones were hella slow and can anybody tell how many shots per second that is i tested it with call of duty 4
EDIT* what would happen if i use a piece of wire instead of a resistor for R2
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sorry for the double post but WHAT THE :censored: HAPPENED TO MY CONTROLERS!!?? I did this mod twice on two sepreate controls i let my friend borrow the first one
he played online with it then he called me saying when he pressed the rapid fire button it would shoot then slightly look down and to the side
so he brought his PS3 over and i saw what he told me and i took apart the control and everything is fine no bad contact points nuthin but it still does that
i finished the second one with a bigger button just to test it and it did the same thing
some kid at school told me this would happen but i didn't take him serious... :nono:
GBlaster you better tell me this didn't happen to you...then again this is friday the 13 and nothin but bad stuff happened to me today :x:
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this happened to me with a sixaxis controller.
uninstalled the chip and put into a ds3 and the problem went away. it seems to be a problem with the older sixaxis.
are your controllers sixaxis?
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sorry for the double post but WHAT THE :censored: HAPPENED TO MY CONTROLERS!!?? I did this mod twice on two sepreate controls i let my friend borrow the first one
he played online with it then he called me saying when he pressed the rapid fire button it would shoot then slightly look down and to the side
so he brought his PS3 over and i saw what he told me and i took apart the control and everything is fine no bad contact points nuthin but it still does that
i finished the second one with a bigger button just to test it and it did the same thing
some kid at school told me this would happen but i didn't take him serious... :nono:
GBlaster you better tell me this didn't happen to you...then again this is friday the 13 and nothin but bad stuff happened to me today :x:
On the bottom of the tutorial there is a solution to this. you can also try replacing the wires because its been suggested that bad wires could cause this problem
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Hey Gblaster,
Thanks so much for answering my questions about the controller.
I have encountered another problem with the ds3 though.
My version is MSU_VSX_0.07 (DualShock 3)
I hooked up the rapid fire and variable resistor.
The extra button works for rapid fire as well as all the other buttons.
The R1 trigger no longer works.
I disassembled and checked connections, solder splashes but can't find anything.
i even realligned the triggers. R2 works but not R1.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
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Hey Gblaster,
Thanks so much for answering my questions about the controller.
I have encountered another problem with the ds3 though.
My version is MSU_VSX_0.07 (DualShock 3)
I hooked up the rapid fire and variable resistor.
The extra button works for rapid fire as well as all the other buttons.
The R1 trigger no longer works.
I disassembled and checked connections, solder splashes but can't find anything.
i even realligned the triggers. R2 works but not R1.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Try reconnecting the flexible green sheet with all the button connectors. How old is the controller? If its fairly new, then sony may be trying some funny business.
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it was just puchased new.
it was fully working prior to mod.
maybe i'll disconnect everything and see if it works again.
could there be a logical explanation on why the R1 doesn't work, but the rapid fire button works?
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it was just puchased new.
it was fully working prior to mod.
maybe i'll disconnect everything and see if it works again.
could there be a logical explanation on why the R1 doesn't work, but the rapid fire button works?
The only two reasons I can think of is:
1)Human Error in installing the Rapid Fire
-or-
2)Sony is getting on top of their game
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yeah, i'm thinking more of a human error.
i'm just trying to think of where the trace/spot could have been broken to disable the r1 trigger but lets the rapid fire button work.
could i have inadvertantly cut the trace on the TP point?
is there an alternative spot on the mobo to let the r1 trigger work again?
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ok..i made one of these when you first released the rapid fire mod and now i am just wondering if it was the 10k or the 56k ohm resistors that controlled the speed on the timer.
thank you
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it's the 56k ohm that controls the speed of the timer (about 10 shots per second).
So if you replace that with an 82kohm, it would shoot at about 8 shots per second).
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About the virus, thats odd.
There are over 700,000 members there... and none of them got viruses.
It was probably just an ad.
If you scanned your HD, and it was fine, then you're fine.
(:
ALSO
So one to the TP point of the PS button and the other to ground i would imagine?
OMFG!!
NO WAI.
I WAS ACTUALLY RIGHT ABOUT SOMETHING :3
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ALSO
OMFG!!
NO WAI.
I WAS ACTUALLY RIGHT ABOUT SOMETHING :3
Nope, sorry, I already said it wouldn't work. Didn't mean to ruin the day :-P
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so ur abel to do this ur self i suppose or you have to buy the kit.
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so ur abel to do this ur self i suppose or you have to buy the kit.
you can do this yourself.
you just go to the local radio shack and get the items listed in page#2 of this thread.
download the tutorial and follow how to put the items together and how to connect to the controller.
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oh cool sounds pretty reasonable tho i dnt have ps3 lol.
I see some of ur spics are missing but wat where they.
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they were pics showing how I fit the rapid fire kit into the ds3 without having to remove the rumble motor. nothing new.
it had been done that way way before I posted the pics so I took them down.
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just use that adobe file it some pics
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Nope, sorry, I already said it wouldn't work. Didn't mean to ruin the day :-P
You gave me a sad ):
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There are over 700,000 members there... and none of them got viruses.
We have just over 13k members O_O where'd you get 700k
Hey GBlaster, does this work for COD5, or will 10 shots per sec cap it? If it will, what resistor should I use instead? Also, if I just replace the 56k ohm with a variable resistor I can use that to adjust the speed to my needs, right?
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We have just over 13k members O_O where'd you get 700k
h sayd that site had 700k not us :P
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Oops... sorry my bad.
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wow very nice number for site..
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Hey GBlaster, does this work for COD5, or will 10 shots per sec cap it? If it will, what resistor should I use instead? Also, if I just replace the 56k ohm with a variable resistor I can use that to adjust the speed to my needs, right?
From what I remember an 82k ohm resistor should drop it down to about 8 shots per second which would allow you to use it on cod5.
A variable resistor would work also
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ahhh well i thought the pot was post to handle the shots tho
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Thanks, and I think if you use a higher resistor, it'll be enough to get through COD5.
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I live in Canada, so we don't have a RadioShack, but will these substitutes from Mouser work?
555 timer, low power:
http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsFq5dYAzx%252bAFeiB1Mj74zc675YsA4Y0rc%3d (http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsFq5dYAzx%252bAFeiB1Mj74zc675YsA4Y0rc%3d)
1uF capacitor:
http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=UVR1H010MDD1TDvirtualkey64700000virtualkey647-UVR1H010MDD1TD (http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=UVR1H010MDD1TDvirtualkey64700000virtualkey647-UVR1H010MDD1TD)
.01uF capacitor:
http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=QYX1H103KTPvirtualkey64700000virtualkey647-QYX1H103KTP (http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=QYX1H103KTPvirtualkey64700000virtualkey647-QYX1H103KTP)
NPN transistor:
I'll just use a 2n2222
10k/56k ohm resistors:
Is 1/4W okay?
Momentary switch:
http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=R13-502A-05-BBvirtualkey11230000virtualkey112-R13-502A-B%2fBp (http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=R13-502A-05-BBvirtualkey11230000virtualkey112-R13-502A-B%2fBp)
One more question... Should I be using a rheostat or a potentiometer if I want to use it in place of the 56k ohm resistor to vary speeds? Or does it even matter...? And if possible, could you link me to a good one from mouser?
Thanks,
Bustin
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I live in Canada, so we don't have a RadioShack, but will these substitutes from Mouser work?
555 timer, low power:
http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsFq5dYAzx%252bAFeiB1Mj74zc675YsA4Y0rc%3d (http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsFq5dYAzx%252bAFeiB1Mj74zc675YsA4Y0rc%3d)
1uF capacitor:
http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=UVR1H010MDD1TDvirtualkey64700000virtualkey647-UVR1H010MDD1TD (http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=UVR1H010MDD1TDvirtualkey64700000virtualkey647-UVR1H010MDD1TD)
.01uF capacitor:
http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=QYX1H103KTPvirtualkey64700000virtualkey647-QYX1H103KTP (http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=QYX1H103KTPvirtualkey64700000virtualkey647-QYX1H103KTP)
NPN transistor:
I'll just use a 2n2222
10k/56k ohm resistors:
Is 1/4W okay?
Momentary switch:
http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=R13-502A-05-BBvirtualkey11230000virtualkey112-R13-502A-B%2fBp (http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=R13-502A-05-BBvirtualkey11230000virtualkey112-R13-502A-B%2fBp)
One more question... Should I be using a rheostat or a potentiometer if I want to use it in place of the 56k ohm resistor to vary speeds? Or does it even matter...? And if possible, could you link me to a good one from mouser?
Thanks,
Bustin
I pretty sure the timer is correct, along with the polyester cap.
The switch link doesn't work anymore, and Im not too sure about the electro cap.
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arnt the parts list in the file that was on the first page