Acidmods
AcidMods Resources ----- ( These are helpful tools for modding ) => Open Source Code & AcidMods Free Code => Topic started by: 3D0kassiah on May 27, 2011, 04:37:30 PM
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first off kudos to you hazer that flex RF is the :censored: lol love it man i uno if i installed it wrong but i get 2 modes 1st mode is sorta like a universal rf for a bunch of games cod blk ops gears 2 etc havent had any trouble and the second mode i can do my own adjustments its :censored: wicked dude
what i was wondering anyway to do it sleeper style?
so instead of just the tactile button use the sync button instead? that would be sickkkk
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you can wire it to the sync button as is but obviously everytime you hold it down it will cause the controller to sync
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ahhh true i didnt think about that so then i wouldnt be able to do the user programmable feature because you have to hold the tactile button down for a few seconds to edit the mode
hmm how do i wire it to the sync button any diagrams?
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ahhh true i didnt think about that so then i wouldnt be able to do the user programmable feature because you have to hold the tactile button down for a few seconds to edit the mode
hmm how do i wire it to the sync button any diagrams?
just look at the diagrams for other sleeper codes the point is the same
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If you look through the FLEX thread toward the last two pages, someone mentioned they wired it up as a sleeper. They say that when they hold the sync down to get into editting mode, they simply press the sync button on the console to resync, and then proceed to edit the settings. Then they hold sync one more time to save the settings and again use the sync button on the console to get out of the flashing LEDs.
This is actually a pretty good alternative. You should be adjusting the controller at the console when your not playing a game anyway so it does not actually interfere with anything.
Personally, I dont see any reason to 'hide' the button, and it works better to have it underneath the controller instead of ontop.
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Personally, I dont see any reason to 'hide' the button, and it works better to have it underneath the controller instead of ontop.
EDIT: AGREED!!
This is awsome just the way it is, when something works as good as this why screw with it? Leave it the way HAZER meant it to be, Nice work by the way hazer I have used this many of times for nephews and friends of theres they love it . Great work and thanks for sharing your talent with many . :tup:
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EDIT: AGREED!!
This is awsome just the way it is, when something works as good as this why screw with it? Leave it the way HAZER meant it to be, Nice work by the way hazer I have used this many of times for nephews and friends of theres they love it . Great work and thanks for sharing your talent with many . :tup:
wasnt trying to modify his code in any way like i said in the first post it rocks just a question about sync/tact button i wouldnt chage the code either
hey anyone know where i can get the little rubber things that can be attached to the tact button makes it looks more professional
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Ive installed flex as a stealth before. and i used the left dpad to switch modes. it worked out pretty well
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wasnt trying to modify his code in any way like i said in the first post it rocks just a question about sync/tact button i wouldnt chage the code either
wasnt trying to be mean about it, just agree with Hazer that its awsome :)
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Ive installed flex as a stealth before. and i used the left dpad to switch modes. it worked out pretty well
sounds good. how do you do that?
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Just wire the tact button wire to the point that corresponds with the left dpad. Follow the left black part of the left dpad untill u get to the hole. then u can scrape the wire and solder to it.
edit: my bad... u follow the right side for this controller.
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thanks guys for all the input decided to keep the setup the way it is
guess i was a bit iffy due to the ugly tact buttons i had but ended up getting a few custom ones from a local electronic hobby shop :tup:
quick question i have a matrix controller and i wired everything up correct also bought some 1N4148 diodes and everytime i pop on the battery pack i get a very faint light coming from the number 4 light on the dome is this normal? does not affect functionality or suffer from any major battery drain but i it normal or did i do something wrong
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hi i am having a few problems with t0pfire v2 revision 6. when i put fully charged batteries in my controller and shoot with rapid fire off it doesnt shoot. but when i turn it on it shoots without me touching the RT trigger. i was wondering what i could do to solve the problem. please email me at: danmahoney21@gmail.com . it would be much aprieciated if you did help me out
regards Danny
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hi i am having a few problems with t0pfire v2 revision 6. when i put fully charged batteries in my controller and shoot with rapid fire off it doesnt shoot. but when i turn it on it shoots without me touching the RT trigger. i was wondering what i could do to solve the problem. please email me at: danmahoney21@gmail.com . it would be much aprieciated if you did help me out
regards Danny
Wront thread. Post this in the topfire thread.
thanks guys for all the input decided to keep the setup the way it is
guess i was a bit iffy due to the ugly tact buttons i had but ended up getting a few custom ones from a local electronic hobby shop
quick question i have a matrix controller and i wired everything up correct also bought some 1N4148 diodes and everytime i pop on the battery pack i get a very faint light coming from the number 4 light on the dome is this normal? does not affect functionality or suffer from any major battery drain but i it normal or did i do something wrong
Its expected. Thats why the diodes are there. Even though you can still see the LED light, the current draw is much less than the what the stock controller uses up when it is off.