Acidmods
AcidMods Resources ----- ( These are helpful tools for modding ) => Open Source Code & AcidMods Free Code => Topic started by: Hazer on April 20, 2012, 06:42:00 PM
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Hello All. While some have mentioned that I have been gone from AM, its actually quite the opposite. I check the front page every day. But I will save whats been happening for another post. For now, many of you wanted the source code for the Naruto controller. Well here it is, completely unabridged. Its actually still not finished 100%. I am hoping that some of you may actually help with completing it. Included in the zip file is the full project folder for MPLAB (includes the asm and the hex). Also, the VC++ folder for the utility. You will now witness my epic noobish PC programming skills (theres a good reason why I am better at assembly).
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg842.imageshack.us%2Fimg842%2F3426%2Fschematick.jpg&hash=98bcca8497ef8b61d9e23fdc67ff78d63474d4a4)
And the zip file:
http://www.mediafire.com/?9qvxynzu97xfdlj (http://www.mediafire.com/?9qvxynzu97xfdlj)
Here is the link to the mod-off project itself:
https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,41125.0.html (https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,41125.0.html)
What you should realize is that the asm file is a reconstructed assembly of the USB demo from Microchip. I cannot work in C18 so I reversed the original firmware hex file and relabeled it. I also had to convert some of the relocatable addressing in order to add assembly to the original structure. I will make a post in the near future of how I did that to show people how to use the baseline USB code and add thier own projects to it.
I also took the Microchip USB HID simple demo and modified it for the following:
-Auto connect like the bootloader (with a little graphic).
-Command to enter the bootloader code directly.
-Command to activate the SYNC signal.
-Data transfer of configured data for modes, rapidfire, and color settings.
Things to watch out for:
This code will require the cutting of the SYNC trace and soldering to each side of the cut. It is also hardcoded for a CG/CG2 controller. In order to make it fit a Matrix, you will need to reverse the polarity of the trigger outputs for the LATX value. The schematic shows the SSR chips I used in my project. I am controlling 4 each of Red, Green, and Blue LEDs so I needed something to drive the 80mA on each color without reducing the voltage supply of the 3V batteries (dim blue led problem). If you only plan to drive a single LED of each color, you dont need the SSR chips. The schematic shows how to wire this up with an SSR for CG2 controllers. If you have a CG, you can remove the SSR and wire the switched power directly to Vdd.
Things left to do:
This code is pretty basic. I only wanted color effects, I dont plan to use the rapidfire. But here are some things that need to be done to finalize the code:
-Burst fire option
-Jitter code
-Dropshot
-Quickscope
-Pictures of the controller PCBs and how the solder points relate to the above schematic
-File saving of favorite options in the PC utility
-Matrix firmware
-A whole lot of help making the utility look good. I tried for an entire week to take the RGB values and somehow have a box change to the color they would make. I mean, all you need is to multiply the values by 25 and then have a subroutine that takes the 3 integers and display your basic RGB color. But I have mentioned before, I am not a computer programmer. Every thing in the utility now took me weeks to learn just the basics and alot of trial and error to make it work. I am sure someone out there can take this and quickly spif it up in less than a day.
Anyways, All of the source is there. I am done holding back stuff for the idea that someone might abuse my work. At this point, I have more fun just making this stuff up. Every time I try to protect it, it becomes 'work' and I lose motivation. After I finish an upcoming post about the baseline USB format, I will come back to this post to explain what I added for the color changing mod and how certain parts of this code works.
How to use the PC Utility:
Before connecting your USB cable, hold down the SYNC button for 2+ seconds and the LEDs will turn solid white. You are now in USB mode. Connect your USB cable and run the utility. The utility will make a 'connected' picture visible once it sees the controller is connected (the LEDs on the controller will also begin blinking).
The main page lets you select how many modes, SYNC activation, and bootloader mode for future updates. The first tabbed section lets you program the on and off times of the rapidfire for each mode. I was also dabbling in displaying the calculated SPS for the first mode. Maybe someone could help finish that :). The second tabbed page is the color page. You enter a value of 0-10 for each color. Think of it as units of 10% increments (0 = 0%, 10 = 100%). This means you control not just the mix of colors, but also the intensity of the basic colors (set them all at 5 for a less bright white).
The check marks on the side give you a couple of effects for the colors. The breathing effect just brings the color up and down. The frequency is also programmable. The second cool effect is spectrum. With this checked, the colors cycle through the RGBs and do not look at what the values are except for the frequency. If neither of these are checked, then the color is just solid.
Thats basically the gist of it. The executable for the utility is in the \Quicksilver Dev\Release\ folder. I think its labeled GenericHIDSimpleDemo.exe.
Have fun.
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AM back up files.
https://www.acidmods.com/moddedmatt/Spectrum360/ (https://www.acidmods.com/moddedmatt/Spectrum360/)
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Hazer, Please verify/confirm part list below:
18f14K50 = pic
R1 = 22K resistor
R2 = 220 ohm resistor
R3 = 220 ohm resistor
R4 = 220 ohm resistor
R5 = 22 ohm resistor
C1 = 22pf capacitor
C2 = 22pf capacitor
C3 = 0.47uf capacitor
C4 = 1uf capacitor
U$2 = 12 MHz Crystal
OK1 - OK4= G3VM-61A
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Matt will there be a kit?
When you get complete parts list together I am interested.
Hazer can we add perfect active reload for GoW3. I can try to help.
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OK1 - OK4= I cannot find anything on these relays....
OK1 - OK4
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron-Electronics/G3VM-61A/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsqIr59i2oRchRrhmBkxG8LxcN9Ru2Sefg%3D (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron-Electronics/G3VM-61A/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsqIr59i2oRchRrhmBkxG8LxcN9Ru2Sefg%3D)
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most of the parts are ordered in bulk. I will have 6 complete sets when everything comes in. So yea I will send out some kits if people want them pm me to get in line. I will sell them at cost minus one kit for me..... I estimate around $20 shipped.
I need Hazer to confirm the resistor/cap ratings
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R2-R4 are 220 Ohm resistors. R5 is a 22 Ohm resistor.
Mikes link is correct. The G3VM-61A in DIP4 package is what I used. They are not standard opto-couplers. Most opto-couplers would drop a few tenths of a volt, and I was trying to avaoid that. These SSRs have almost no voltage drop and thus give as much of the battery power to the Blue and Green LEDs as possible.
What would be cool is if someone would like to take a crack at an Eagle file and we can have a small run done in SMD flavor to fit the controller nice. I was already using a SMD board made for something else, and I still had alot of big stuff to wire after that.
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omg thanks hazer! ur the worlds best coder i use just about ALL of ur codes. im ur fanboy :laughing: LOL
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ok so technically, we can design the main board and an expansion board to drive multiple leds.
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Could we have the eagle file for that schematic please? and could you tell me again what the board size was for your final rf? or If anyone knows a better spot to install this mod what size the board would need to be to fit there..
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I am hesitant to release the Eagle file for that schematic as I just renamed random parts real quickly to come up with a visual schematic. I can put together a better one, using real configured parts with the proper libraries. For instance, there is no part built for the G3VM, and the 18F14k50 is an original built part. Also, the crystal used was an H type SMD that is too tall to use. There are smaller ones that would be better.
The final rapidfire was 0.5" x 1.0" in size. If you use the good SMD parts to build a board, you can fit it right in the center of the controller behind the PCB as long as you use a thin PCB and the parts are not big. Take a look at RDCs CGnome project.
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Hazer,
I have the schematic reconstructed in eagle...almost.
I used the Librarian to build the 18f14k50 part, but I need the proper crystal. I plan to leave the opto's off of the first run. possibly doing them as an expansion board.
RDC turned me on to a couple pcb prototyping houses for small runs, and I have ordered an adapter to program the smd chips as well as most of the components in smd packaging. so I will be doing a small proto run for testing and further dev.
Now as for further development, I would like to add a pad for each of the open pins on the chip so we can add to this project. can you provide any insite?
Also I would like to use this opportunity to help redevelop the RND team to help expand on this project. Hazer and a few of the team will receive proto boards once complete.
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Im up for any rnd help.
I would love to see PS3 version but I will build an xbox just to go with this. Thinking about a window mod w rgb backlight.
I was talking w someone here about gears mode (red) , mw (green) bf3 (blue). Simplify the display.
Gears perfect active is my biggest request I get. Then something easier for display modes and switching modes.
Just a request.
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Not sure what the PCB manufactures RDC informed you about but I thought i would chip in aswell
here are two more services for small runs of PCBs
http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/fusion-pcb-service-p-835.html (http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/fusion-pcb-service-p-835.html)
http://dorkbotpdx.org/wiki/pcb_order (http://dorkbotpdx.org/wiki/pcb_order)
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Im looking at using seed studio already.
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This may help. I have another version of this for the PS3, but for the xbox360 Spectrum project, I used this:
http://www.mediafire.com/?7jc4qigd0j3xjbl (http://www.mediafire.com/?7jc4qigd0j3xjbl)
I am still trying to put together alot of my work in such a way as it makes sense. At least this Eagle file has the 14K50 in SSOP and a good crystal. I already have PCBs, and a solder oven I built to put them together (I will be releasing that as well). You can use this file, or take the parts to make your own.
Not sure what the PCB manufactures RDC informed you about but I thought i would chip in aswell
here are two more services for small runs of PCBs
http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/fusion-pcb-service-p-835.html (http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/fusion-pcb-service-p-835.html)
http://dorkbotpdx.org/wiki/pcb_order (http://dorkbotpdx.org/wiki/pcb_order)
Those are insane! Che3ck this out, I get boards for less than $1 each:
http://www.pcbcart.com/cart.php?page=about_us (http://www.pcbcart.com/cart.php?page=about_us)
Yes, it takes upto 30 days sometimes, but its well worth getting 100 boards for the price of ten!
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just an idea but if we tie the rgb outputs to a remote controller for RGB leds we could mod a matching RGB led display on the console. Something like this but not exactly. One that has a dimmer for R and G and B.
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi01.i.aliimg.com%2Fphoto%2Fv0%2F337871423%2FRemote_controller_dimmer.summ.jpg&hash=8cdbc421ef3407559359bb904990df21e96589a3) (http://sunshineled.en.alibaba.com/product/337870866-210327118/Lighting_dimmer.html)
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Hazer,
SethMods and I were looking at your schematic, and it looks like the chip is set up for USB self power mode, since the 5V line from usb isn't used. According to http://support2.microchip.com/KBSearch/KB_StdProb.aspx?ID=SQ6UJ9A00Y9LA (http://support2.microchip.com/KBSearch/KB_StdProb.aspx?ID=SQ6UJ9A00Y9LA) (thanks Seth for the link), when powering the chip with 3V, wouldn't you be required to use the LF version of the chip in order for the USB to work?
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in theory, but the last project using this chip functioned equally in both versions.
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Just curious, has anyone installed this yet?
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what package version of the pic did you use?
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how is this project coming along?
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bump.... Because I am allowed.
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Confirmed part list:
18f14K50 = pic
R1 = 22K resistor
R2 = 220 ohm resistor
R3 = 220 ohm resistor
R4 = 220 ohm resistor
R5 = 22 ohm resistor
C1 = 22pf capacitor
C2 = 22pf capacitor
C3 = 0.47uf capacitor
C4 = 1uf capacitor
U$2 = 12 MHz Crystal
OK1 - OK4= G3VM-61A
also note there can be one main pcb and breakout boards for each led bank.