Acidmods
Console Modding------ ( Here you can talk about your favorite Consoles ) => PS4 => PS4 Controllers/PS4 Rapid Fire Controllers => Topic started by: RDC on September 29, 2015, 05:45:25 AM
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This is for the JDM-030 only.
I designed these up a little while back. They are for keeping you from needing to solder onto the PCB of the JDM-030 for duplicating any of the main buttons, but they were also a test for another project that is almost complete now.
Left side
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/SFX-030/SFX-030_Left.jpg)
GND1 - Common for D-pad
DD - D-pad Down
DL - D-pad Left
DU - D-pad Up
DR - D-pad Right
3.1 - Common for L1
L1 - L1
L2 - L2
2L - Common for L2
Right side
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/SFX-030/SFX-030_Right.jpg)
R2 - R2
2R - Common for R2
3.2v - Common for R2
R1 - R1
TRI - Triangle, /\
CIR - Circle, O
CRS - Cross, X
SQR - Square, [ ]
PS - PS/Home
GND - Common for the 5 above buttons
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/SFX-030/SFX-030.jpg)
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great job! where can i buy these boards??
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Thanks. Replied to your PM.
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Nice!!! PM me as well please
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PM me please!!
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PM sent.
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Hi, i send you a pm to know where i can buy the flex, thank you!
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Hi, would be really interested in a set of these, really impressive. I was going to try and solder direct to the board... Until I saw how tiny the lines were😳. If they're available I would love to buy a set? Also when connected, (I'm assuming they will) will the face buttons work as well as any buttons soldered to the board? Cheers
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They do not change how the controller works at all, they just make the soldering easier, so the face buttons and everything still all function normally.
Sent you a PM also.
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Hi, is this still available for purchase? and is soldering required to install this mod?
Thanks.
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Yes I still have some, you can PM me about them.
No soldering is required to install them, but you will need to solder your new switch wires to them after they are installed.
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Hi, do you know where the soldering points are located on the new PS4 Pro controller board?
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were can i buy one of those
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@ moyherrera - You an PM about them.
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Can i buy these simpleflex boards in the uk?
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If you are after making up an arcade stick, the SFX isn't really the best option since the controller has to be put together for those things to make the proper connections, the same as the original FPC cables are in the for the buttons. If the controller is half apart they just don't connect very well and you'll get all manner of weird issues.
Preparing the spots where the SFX goes and soldering directly to the board is honestly the better option in that instance, as well as takes up a ton less room since you then don't need the entire controller to be in there.
https://acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43542.msg326640.html#msg326640
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Great thanks for the quick reply
Only i wanted the simpleflex for easier soldering
As my soldering skills aren't exactly top notch
Also another question my arcade control panel
Has 12 illuminated 5 volt dc buttons which points can i get that supply from (on the USB pcb i suspect)and can the controllers USB in handle that many leds
Thanks
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The only time there would be 5v there would be when the USB cable was plugged up. If you played any wireless, there would be no 5v there. 12 LEDs, depends on how they set those up and the current draw of each one if the USB port could handle that or not. Should be some mA spec listed for them somewhere, otherwise you'd have to take one, assuming they are all using the same color LED, and do some bench testing with the meter to find out what kind of current draw each one is taking. If they are only pulling 5mA or so a piece, that's 60mA total and would probably be fine on most USB ports. If each one is taking 100mA to light up though, you're looking at 1200mA, or 1.2Amps just to drive those LEDs alone, and no USB port is going to be happy with that at all.
If you plan to use it wireless, the LEDs might be able to be driven from the 3.2v of the controller, but again without knowing how they set all of that up and the current draw they each take, that might not be a good idea either and at best there you might have to change out every Resistor in every button for that to work properly. Without knowing the specs of the things there's no way to say which way to go there.
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Thanks for the help
Just this bit:
The L2 and R2 are where it gets to be a little more work. First you'll need to install a Pull-Up Resistor from 3.2v to the L2 and R2 lines, one for each side. The value is ~7.5k, but 10k will work just as well in this case. Then you'll connect your new L2 and R2 buttons wires to the L2/2L spots for L2, and R2/2R spots for R2.
Can i use a normal 10k resistor with a tolerance of 10%
And can you draw a little wiring diagram as im struggling to follow that bit
Thanks
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10k is fine.
On the Left side, put the Resistor between 3.2v and L2. On the Right side put another Resistor between 3.2v and R2.
Wire up you new L2 button lines to L2 and 2L. Wire up the new R2 button lines to R2 and 2R.
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Okay got that thanks for your help, where can i pick up the options and share button's
Best for soldering?
And could i use the ground and 3.2v on the stick points(for other lines on buttons and the resistor on the 3.2v) as there bigger and easier to solder too ?
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Pretty much at the buttons for them is the only easy place to solder to.
Yes that 3.2v is the same and can be used instead of you prefer.
Ground is ground, so any of them can be used for that. Remember that L1, R2, L3 and R3 use that 3.2v for their other connection. Every other button uses Ground though.
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Good day with all, someone will have the schematic for JDM030, I have a L2 pad that does not work, I have changed the membrane but it seems that it is a problem of the motherboard, I would like to have the schematic to know where I should measure and know if I have any damaged resistance. I can communicate with someone to get that modification that the partner did?