Acidmods
Console Modding------ ( Here you can talk about your favorite Consoles ) => Xbox One => Xbox One controllers/Xbox One Rapid fire Controllers => Topic started by: killerfrost on April 19, 2021, 11:01:22 AM
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Hello, I?m still a beginner to doing repairs and I think that fixing one problem caused more damage. The LB button on my Elite Series 2 controller had become pretty unresponsive (it took a lot of effort to make it register and only did so part of the time). I did some research and decided it must need a new tactile switch.
I replaced it, and when I put the controller back together, the D-pad was skipping, ABXY were unresponsive (with the exception of A which has a weak response, but not enough to register a command), and the thumb sticks don?t work. I took it back apart and replaced the D-pad sticker to see if that would help with that problem at least and put it partially back together. The same problems remain.
I?m not sure if I fried something when I replaced the tactile switch or what could possibly be wrong. I?m hoping someone can point me in the right direction of what I should be looking for or testing. Thank you.
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never ever touch elite boards without proper equipment, they are very hard to solder, so with cheap equip you basically do damage instead of repair.
(https://i.imgur.com/2Vn48Rc.jpg)
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I did notice that desoldering was so much more difficult on this controller and the first Elite controller than on any other controller I?ve ever worked on. I have a Hakko desoldering gun and that didn?t really make things any easier. It?s like the solder doesn?t want to melt. I recently upgraded to a Hakko FX-888D digital soldering station, and that?s what I used on this, but it was still difficult and I may have had the temperature too high. What happened with yours?
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T12 is my favorite solder, and buy flux original, not by china
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I did notice that desoldering was so much more difficult on this controller and the first Elite controller than on any other controller I?ve ever worked on. I have a Hakko desoldering gun and that didn?t really make things any easier. It?s like the solder doesn?t want to melt. I recently upgraded to a Hakko FX-888D digital soldering station, and that?s what I used on this, but it was still difficult and I may have had the temperature too high. What happened with yours?
you should use big fullcopper tips for such applications. cuz elite boards have thick copper layer inside.
I?m hoping someone can point me in the right direction of what I should be looking for or testing. Thank you.
we need high qualty photo of region where you did work on your controller.
for elite 2 board damaged only this level of repair was possible cuz throughholes were damaged
(https://i.imgur.com/FvjaP2u.jpg)
and this is proper stick replacement on elite1
(https://i.imgur.com/kRKxclZ.jpg)
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Thanks for the tip about the copper tips. I?ll definitely get some before doing any more work on elite controllers. Here are a few pictures of the board I worked on. The part I worked on was the top right of the back of the board. https://imgur.com/a/GFtK1mK