Acidmods
Console Modding------ ( Here you can talk about your favorite Consoles ) => Xbox One => Xbox One controllers/Xbox One Rapid fire Controllers => Topic started by: BillyBigNaan on May 20, 2022, 02:59:23 AM
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Hi everyone, I am having a bit of an issue with the series X controller. This specific one will not work on battery power, but will work on USB.
Can anyone point me in the right direction? What should i probe to check for problems?
I have looked for broken traces or obvious damage around Q8 area but cant see anything.
Thanks in advance
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I have the same issue but with 1708 board. Works perfectly with USB but will shut down almost immediately when using batteries. The interesting part is, if I keep holding the X button it will not shut off. I could connect to Bluetooth and even play games.
This controller is worth a week of my salary and now its broken. I don't understand why is it so fragile, my X360 controller lasted for 12 years.
Please share with me if you found any solution. Thanks.
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Still no reply yet on my issue,
However, with 1708, start around Q8 and R29. usually the issue with that board is a blown trace around that area or a failed component.
Just not sure if the new boards are the same and if the issue also derives from that area.
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Still no reply yet on my issue,
Could also say you still haven't figured it out for yourself yet either. ;)
Works on USB but not battery, and works on USB but not battery but does work on battery while holding Guide are completely different issues. If the 1914 does not work on battery at all, then I would check L1, then D73 first. After that I'd have to dig into the 1914 a bit more and see what they did different there as it has changed up a little from the 1708.
Unless something catastrophic has happened, components can fail without burning themselves to a crisp, so a bad one and a new one, don't look any different at all using just the ole eyeballs.
@john.jenin - Your issues is most likely around the Q8 area somewhere as mentioned. The Guide button is turning things on, but it's not latching on like it should. The 1708 Button/Power board schematic is in that thread. R24, Q8, D26, start with checking those and go from there.
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@RDC this two component(R4 & C37) are touching each other. I assume it would be OK because they are connected together right? Just asking to make sure.
Thank you very much for your help.
https://imgur.com/a/iaIYrUt
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The tops side there where they are touching is not an issue. They are on the Reset line for the IO Expander, U4 on the top board there. If there was an issue on that Reset line, usually the controller will still work, but all of the buttons on the top board there will be dead, so really only B and the LSC, RSC buttons will be all that work.
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@RDC I figured out the problem. There are some broken traces on R7. Using a jumper wire, I fixed the issue.
The controller is working, but now my D-PAD and left analogue stick are constantly drifting downward. Have you any idea what could cause an issue like this?
It's weird that DPAD is drifting. There must be something I did wrong.
Actually, while trying to solder the jumper wire, R7 fell down. I managed to solder it back but couldn't figure out the polarity. Since I can't see any marking, I assume there was no polarity.
Could this be the issue?
EDIT: So I disassembled the controller again and gave it a little cleaning. For whatever reason, DPAD drift is now gone. Maybe there's some flux residue somewhere.
Unfortunately, the left stick is still drifting, but this time it slowly moves upward instead of downward. Maybe the stick is faulty. I haven't used this controller for a while.
I got a spare PS4 stick. It appears to be the same size. I'll try to swap the sticks and see what happens.
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Resistors have no polarity.
Drifting and pressed are not the same thing.
The D-pad is Digital, it's either on or off, it's not going to drift. If DD (D-pad Down) is acting like it is being pressed, when it's not being pressed, then either there is some crud under the DD contacts, the DD line is shorted to ground somewhere, or U4 is just bad and needs replaced.
Stick drift is a whole other thing and there is loads of info online and in multiple threads around here about that.