Acidmods
Console Modding------ ( Here you can talk about your favorite Consoles ) => Xbox One => Xbox One controllers/Xbox One Rapid fire Controllers => Topic started by: jetcore123 on April 08, 2023, 10:56:08 PM
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in the process of replacing my joysticks on a xbox series controller c26 and c307 broke off and now the triggers are reading as always pressed and the left joystick cant reach 100% on left on up direction. could the broken capacitors be causing this and if so where can I get replacements?
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Neither of those caps missing will cause those issues. Post good pics of your board.
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how do I do that? I don't see a way to add an image
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Upload the image(s) to any of a dozen sites that are for that, then post the link.
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https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Zix8hPw1EC-8Nt7y_uh_rjW2oj18FIdE?usp=sharing
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OK, good pics meant in focus pics. I can't make out anything that is screaming there's an issue, even from those, but it's really a PITA to try and diagnose blurs. Give that solder flux a cleaning with some rubbing alcohol and a few Q-tips also.
The Triggers are kind of their own thing, for them to both have an issue I'd suspect a problem around C3, C32, C33, C35, C37, R38, R40, U9, U10, U11, or an issue with the MCU. You can also try seeing if the controller needs a Firmware update. If C307 tore the pad up, then U9 would get no power and there would be Trigger issues, but that' doesn't look like it in that pic.
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I couldn't find anything wrong with the things you listed. I did upload a new pic to the folder with a closer and more focused look at the broken c307 if that helps.
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Around C307 looks fine. At C26 though that kind of looks shorted, though all that would do is make the LSC button act pressed all the time.
What voltages are on U10 and U11 there?
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Around C307 looks fine. At C26 though that kind of looks shorted, though all that would do is make the LSC button act pressed all the time.
What voltages are on U10 and U11 there?
hi friend help me, my elite 1 1698 controler LT and RT are pressed, i have 0.07v both u10 u11
now i trying your post:
https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43988.msg327601.html#msg327601
Are R37 and R41 shorted?
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R37 and R41 are 0 ohms, just jumpers.
Check the voltages at spot to the left of TP84, the one above TP84 and the one above TP98.
You really need a scope to see what is going on there.
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in the U9, upper terminals you say? left of TP84 i have 1,65v right i have 0.61v
u9 under terminals Left i have 0,7v , right i have 0v
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What voltages are on the 3 pins of U10/U11?
3
[ ]
1 2
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xbox one Elite
u10
pin 1 0.07
pin 2 0.00
pin 3 0.00
c33 near u10 not shorted 0.07v
same u10 and u11 :cry2:
u11
pin 1 0.07
pin 2 0.00
pin 3 0.00
c37 near u11 not shorted 0.07v
i have a xbox one fat controler opened here for compare, LT and RT is ok, so i compare..
on xbox one fat controle i have
u10 and 11
pin 1 1.26v
pin 2 0.25v
pin 3 0.00v
u9 terminals
up left 3.26v up rigth 0.60v
under left 1.26v under rigth 0.00v
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That's conflicting info. If you have 1.65v to the left of TP84, but 0v on pin, then either R37 and R41 are open, or you have some damaged traces to both Hall sensors, or both Hall sensors are bad.
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maybe Hall sensors are bad, can i use a jump near TP84 to hall?
yeah bro! U9 terminals, i see 4 terminals
up left 1.65v up right 0,61v
under left 0.07 under right 0,00v
is diferente voltage comparing a xbox one fat controler U9
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Connect the red dots with a jumper wire and see if LT works.
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Repair/1698_Hall_Power.jpg)
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i try your jumper but i have 0.07v near TP84 , this U9 get only 1.65v upside and sending 0.07 and underside
mayber this U9 is dead or something wrong happening before U9.
half is arriving and half is leaving in elite controler U9 comparing a U9 xbox one fat crontoler , need solve this problem i think
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You have a 3.3v issue then. Test the top board alone, plugged in with USB cable, and make sure it outputs 3.3v first.
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all controler is ok now, i change left analogic but a new,, he had broken traces, i use your jump schematic, now its the problem is only LT and RT are 100% pressed. Maybe when i separating the mcu something broke, LT RT are normal berofe this. :cry2:
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Pin 4 of U9 is supposed to be 3.3v, the top/left pin in the pic I posted. If U9 was bad pulling the 3.3v line down to 1.6v, then all of the 3.3v in the controller would be 1.6v You could try jumpering the top of C34 to 3.3v and see what happens, but I'd want to know where that 1.6v is coming from.
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on the unplugged main board I have
J1/J5 Connector Pinout 8 = 4.94v
J2/J6 Connector Pinout 1 = 2,94v pin4 3.28v
i need to checkdo reverse way on this U9, he comes from C34 and goes to the other side of the board
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i found the problem bro! :rofl:
broken track or rust underneath C34, now i have 3,26v on u10 and u11 , LT RT are normal.
i removed it, scratched and soldered a bridge c34 to u9, now i need way to solder a c34 again without damaging the bridge.
I tried to post a picture in hopes of helping someone, thank you very much boss!
https://flic.kr/ps/42bnTM
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Welcome.
C34 isn't really necessary, it's just another decoupling cap on the 3.3v rail and there are plenty of those in there.