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Xbox One controllers/Xbox One Rapid fire Controllers / Re: XB1 controller 1708 RT and left analogue not working after stick replacement.
« Last post by RDC on July 28, 2025, 09:09:42 PM »Welcome
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Xbox One controllers/Xbox One Rapid fire Controllers / Re: XB1 controller 1708 RT and left analogue not working after stick replacement.« Last post by RDC on July 28, 2025, 09:09:42 PM »Welcome
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Xbox One controllers/Xbox One Rapid fire Controllers / Re: XB1 controller 1708 RT and left analogue not working after stick replacement.« Last post by sidgallup on July 28, 2025, 06:29:42 AM »thanks again, controller is completely restored now.
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Xbox One controllers/Xbox One Rapid fire Controllers / Re: XB1 controller 1708 RT and left analogue not working after stick replacement.« Last post by RDC on July 25, 2025, 12:50:41 PM »Top, left and bottom pads are ground, aka outside of the coax able. The right one is the signal, the center lead of the coax.
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Xbox One controllers/Xbox One Rapid fire Controllers / Re: XB1 controller 1708 RT and left analogue not working after stick replacement.« Last post by sidgallup on July 24, 2025, 06:59:21 AM »Thanks for the reply, ive been checking for continuity on the board like maniac and now the left analogue is working, i found there was a broen trace somewhere on the front side, i just patched a wire from the center leg of the poten tiometer to test point 63 and that was the solution, i wouldve liked to just patch the broken trace but this board has so much damage on the pads that i dont want to remove the sticks the butcher that worked on this controller put in before i got the controller.
Anyways, now im thinking there must be another broken trace on the front, most probably under the analogue stick box, i will check the traces for the left trigger. EDIT: welp, found the culprit. the broken trace on the L TRIGGER was on the front side of the board, just below the analogue stick box, somehwere btw the hall sensor and the R42 resistor, patched a wire from the V-OUT leg of the hall sensor to R$@ resistor and now L TRIGGER is working perfect, glad i was able to save this controller, anyways, as i was putting everything together now i notice the connector on the bluetooth board, where the antennae cable goes, is missing. pic of what it should look like: https://imgur.com/a/uJ434oh i dont have a donor board to get this connector from, i know this is only for the bluetooth signal and i dont need it to play on my XB1S, but i would like to try and fix it too, im thinking about just cutting the cable plug and sodler the cables directly to the bluetooth board, i think the up and down pads are just grounds and anchor points, and left is ground, right is voltage. Is this correct? 85
Xbox One controllers/Xbox One Rapid fire Controllers / Re: XB1 controller 1708 RT and left analogue not working after stick replacement.« Last post by RDC on July 23, 2025, 10:20:06 AM »1708 schematic is here - https://acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43981.0.html
Without pics, I'd have to say look over the board a few good times first, as there could be more damage that's not standing out as much. Easy to get side tracked on the obvious problems while a missing component or scratched trace can hide right in plain sight. 86
Xbox One controllers/Xbox One Rapid fire Controllers / XB1 controller 1708 RT and left analogue not working after stick replacement.« Last post by sidgallup on July 22, 2025, 12:46:17 PM »So i got this controller that someone tried to replace both analogue sticks on and completely destroyed almost every trace, nasty work.
After a couple hours of cleaning and wiring i got the RIGHT ANALOGUE working perfectly. However LEFT ANALOGUE AND LEFT TRIGGER have issues. LEFT TRIGGER is always detected as ON, and LEFT ANALOGUE only works when i push it LEFT AND RIGHT, but it does nothing when i press UP OR DOWN. Funnily enough, when i press left or right on this left joystick, i can see it "moves" on its own like this : i move the analogue all the way left and it also moves all the way up on its own, if i move the analogue all the wa to the right, it moves on its own all the way down. Also LEFT TRIGGER is always ON, ive tried updating firmware on my console, and tried the Xbox Accessories to test and it shows LT always pressed. on my PC it also shows LT always pressed. I know im really close to completely fix this controller, does the LEFT TRIGGER and LEFT ANALOGUE have any sharing components? asking before i start just randomly replacing caps and resistors. Any help appreciated. 87
PS4 Controllers/PS4 Rapid Fire Controllers / Re: DualShock 4 Controller PCB scans« Last post by RDC on July 09, 2025, 01:02:55 PM »68ohm, 0402 size
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PS4 Controllers/PS4 Rapid Fire Controllers / Re: DualShock 4 Controller PCB scans« Last post by krevedkokun on July 08, 2025, 12:55:24 PM »89
Xbox One controllers/Xbox One Rapid fire Controllers / Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1797 "Elite Series 2"« Last post by Worf on June 30, 2025, 02:05:29 PM »OK, I'll try using the PCAL6416AHF128 in the next device.
It has been confirmed that the PCA6416AHF,128 without the 'L' does not work. 90
Xbox One controllers/Xbox One Rapid fire Controllers / Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1797 "Elite Series 2"« Last post by RDC on June 27, 2025, 05:36:06 PM »Did some digging into this I/O Expander thing, and probably got this half wonky from the start, as I have been using the TCA6416 in my schematics, but the chip has always been the L16A, aka the PCAL6416. I just tossed a straight PCA6416 into a 1797 here and it indeed acted all kinds of stupid with only one button working and most of the other ones stuck on. Installed a new PCAL6416 and it works fine.
The TCA6416 and PCA6416 are pretty much identical chips, same 8 Commands so either one of those things will work the same way, and no idea why they wouldn't unless that TCA chip of yours is in fact a TCAL6416 version. The PCAL/TCAL has 23 Command, and in the case of the 1797 it does not like the non L version in there. I'll have to see what a 1708 will do with a non L version, but I don't recall it using anything more than the base commands. Could be the non L version will work fine in the older version controllers, but the 1797 is using more of the features the chip has, so the non L version throws a fit in there. So long story short, yes the PCA is a direct replacement for the TCA, but when you're talking the L version, it's for sure not the same deal. Apologies for any headache that info gave anyone doing U4 swaps. |