Direct Contact LEDs With a Switch PLEASE help...

[EliteGamer83]

Ok just to let you know, that please do not flame/comment about the lenghth or same colors of the wires etc. This was just a test to see if my orange LED was still working which it was. This is not permanent or anything just a light test. Well I tried DIP switches for the first time (I normally use 3 pin switches) and I soldered the - wire to the same pin on the DIP, well even if I slide the switch left or right the LED remains lit. Now am I doing something wrong???


SEE MY POST AT THE BOTTOM

Actual Pic:


How it should work? (Is this correct?):

[DubbleDutch]

you need to solder 1 wire to 1 side of the switch and the other one to the other wire :P

[treemty]

no thats wrong,
you need one part of the wire on the on sie and one part on the off
because the way the switch works, is there is a little piece of metal in there and when you slide the switch it pushes it down and completes the circuit
EDIT: DD beat me to it

[EliteGamer83]

you need to solder 1 wire to 1 side of the switch and the other one to the other wire :P

You mean like it shows in my diagram? or like 1 wire to 1 pin and the other wire to the other pin?
Can you please make a quick diagram on paint to show me? I don't understand what your saying.

Ok I got it, just wondering, is there a way to have it so the left is sound reactive and when you turn the switch right it's fader? or can this only be accomplished with a 3-pin switch?

[DubbleDutch]

won't work with a dip switch
and it won't work for direct contact with the fader
unless you get a 4 pin (which enables you to connect pin1 and 2 together or pin 3 and 4)

because the voltage changes on the speaker when it's on, and for the fader you need a certain amount of power and not a changing one)

[EliteGamer83]

won't work with a dip switch
and it won't work for direct contact with the fader
unless you get a 4 pin (which enables you to connect pin1 and 2 together or pin 3 and 4)

because the voltage changes on the speaker when it's on, and for the fader you need a certain amount of power and not a changing one)

Oh ok, cause I wanted fader and then some sound reactive, but I was thinking I couldn't find room for so many switches and I would have to have 2 sets of LEDs.

[EliteGamer83]

Ok so is this correct?
And there would only be 1 slider but I just put 3 to show all 3 positions.
Also position 2 would be all LEDs off on that circuit.



And is this a good switch for my needs?:



*EDIT*
Sorry for double post guys.

[DubbleDutch]

well never let your the + or the - share !!
with that i mean

the + from the speaker should NEVER be connected to the + of the fader (which is in your case)
thesame counts for the -

[bustinthejustin]

Yeah... I'm not really getting your diagram. 'tis confusing.

[EliteGamer83]

Yeah... I'm not really getting your diagram. 'tis confusing.

Well that's as simple as you can make it.

well never let your the + or the - share !!
with that i mean

the + from the speaker should NEVER be connected to the + of the fader (which is in your case)
thesame counts for the -

But the + from the speaker is below the switch so the + from the fader like the 1 wire from + side of the LEDs is just going to be shared and the 1 - wire from the LEDs is going to be shared. And so you can't have the ground from the fader connected with the - from the speaker? I thought that two -'s connected means nothing will happen.